[MackM4Comp]

Originally Posted by 2JPW

It's got to that time of year for removing wheels and fitting winter wheels and tyres.
I used a telescopic wrench to remove and torque wrench to refit.
I noticed that the wrench bent slightly whilst applying force to it and I have marked the wheel where the socket goes slightly as a consequence.

No copper slip on hubs or bolts - BMW stealers not taking time or effort, but that's another issue.

Just wondered what tools people use to remove their wheels? Any advice welcomed.

Kwik Fit

[2JPW]

Originally Posted by MackM4Comp

Kwik Fit

Wheres your spirit of adventure?

[XAlp]

Originally Posted by 2JPW

Can you tell me the size please?
Are the bolts on the F32 M14*1.25?

Sorry when I bought mine off eBay I just searched for f30.

[sahajesh]

Brummies and Scousers are generally the best tools for removing things.

[Carjack]

Originally Posted by 2JPW

How does the flat face of the hub transfer the torque?

The bolts transfer the torque surely?

Friction.
Copper keep well clear.
Bolt threads and the hub mating surface must be dry and clean.

[Ridg]

Originally Posted by 2JPW

It's got to that time of year for removing wheels and fitting winter wheels and tyres.
I used a telescopic wrench to remove and torque wrench to refit.
I noticed that the wrench bent slightly whilst applying force to it and I have marked the wheel where the socket goes slightly as a consequence.

No copper slip on hubs or bolts - BMW stealers not taking time or effort, but that's another issue.

Just wondered what tools people use to remove their wheels? Any advice welcomed.

I use a breaker bar to loosen the nuts whilst on the ground, generally 1/2 a turn

Jack the car up

remove nuts with wheel brace

swap wheel

wheel brace to hand tighten nuts

lower car

torque wrench to tighten nuts

I only copper grease the hub and inside of the wheel, but i keep a rubber mallet handy if the wheel isn't coming off; generally the wheel wants to fall off with the last bolt anyway.

[XK140]

Originally Posted by Carjack

Friction.
Copper keep well clear.
Bolt threads and the hub mating surface must be dry and clean.

I agree that is the accepted advice from those who should know.

...but can some engineer explain why?

Let's say you put some grease on the hub mating surfaces and then assemble and tighten up the wheel bolts.I would think that the mating surfaces would then be held so tightly together,with metal to metal contact,so that the grease is no longer a factor affecting friction.

(I agree that wheel bolts should not be greased because the given torque values relate to dry threads.)

[jimbobiggens]

Stiction is the friction that tends to prevent stationary surfaces from being set in motion.
Any lubrication on the flanges will reduce stiction, which means the bolts will have to absorb more of the acceleration and braking forces than they normally would. Is it enough to worry about? I don't know, but it makes for an interesting argument. "Clean and dry" is the way I was taught with the exception of a little lubrication on the inner flange. Nothing whatsoever on the bolts.

[TiredGeek]

Originally Posted by 2JPW

Can you tell me the size please?
Are the bolts on the F32 M14*1.25?

If it's later than 2012 then yes, 14 x 1.25 is correct
Same things, bit cheaper
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223211702944

[2JPW]

Originally Posted by TiredGeek

If it's later than 2012 then yes, 14 x 1.25 is correct
Same things, bit cheaper
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223211702944

Cheers, ordered some the other day.