[F82Tazmanian]

Just ordered a pair of dinan sways. Anyone know what the best setting is? The instructions say full oversteer for 335/340 which is not what I'm looking for. I want it to understeer and stay close to stock but significantly stiffer. Front full understeer and back middle?

[Kaps335i]

Originally Posted by 440iGCCB

Just ordered a pair of dinan sways. Anyone know what the best setting is? The instructions say full oversteer for 335/340 which is not what I'm looking for. I want it to understeer and stay close to stock but significantly stiffer. Front full understeer and back middle?

Don't know the answer to your question, but has anything else been upgraded on your suspension? I've been thinking about doing just the Dinan sway bars, but I would prefer oversteer.

If you haven't already, I would recommend calling Dinan and see what they say.

[brigade24]

how are you finding it so far?

I only installed the rear bar and im running it in the first hole which is the stiffest setting. it might be a bit much for street but for autos its where I need to be. turn in is significant sharper and the front tires bit alot more through transitions. the rear feels planted. it was oversteering a bit but I took some air out of the rear tires and that seem to help it during my autox runs...

the front still rolls a bit so ill be putting in the front bar this week and we'll see what happens

[CJ421]

I don't think a stiff rear sway bar is a good idea, especially with an open diff. On a RWD car there needs to be some independence in the rear suspension movement (the left wheel movement not affecting the right wheel movement and vice versa) so the rear tires stay in contact with the ground. Look under BMW CCA race cars, etc - very thin rear sways, if they even run one.

The front, on the other hand, you can go very stiff. The front of the car doesn't need to roll in order to transfer weight. You accomplish weight transfer just by turning the steering wheel, that is what makes the car turn, not body roll.

So reduce roll up front and allow some roll in the rear.

Charles

[brigade24]

Originally Posted by 440iGCCB

I have them both set to middle and honestly it feels very neutral and the rear comes out a lot less. This is with an extra 40 or so torque mind you with my MPPSK. I'm not sure why everyone says a stiffer rear bar on an open LSD will induce oversteer. I'm debating full stiff all around, but with stock run flats and camber, this may entice the tail to pop out. What do you think?

so I've installed the front bar and tested it in the middle setting and stiffest setting during a few autox events. there is significantly less understeer when set to the stiffest setting...larger contact patch is preserved i imagine. I'm running 255mm rubber all round...so even at the stiffest settings in the front and rear, the car barely oversteers. in a transitions or sharp turn, i found that it is def more likely to understeer than oversteer...but not by much. for autox, i think this is ideal but i need to do more testing...

[MacklinUSOB]

While I have not changed the sway bars in my car, even with all of my mods the car still has progressive understeer at the limit while very neutral to that point. I wouldn't want my front end more stiff than it is because I am already contesting understeer on corner exit. I'm going to increase my rear rebound setting for my next track day and see if that makes a pronounced difference. Beyond that I would consider a RSB, but think that a proper LSD is the better option for me since I'd rather have throttle controlled oversteer rather than it be inherent in the chassis.

Just be conservative while stiffening your car, take it one step at a time to figure out what you're happy with. Going full stiff can make normal driving feel good but can be like walking on a cliff edge at the limit. The best way to reduce understeer, particularly in our cars, is to increase front negative camber and tire size.

[RedSectorA]

I have and 340iX with front and back Dinan sways set up at the stiffest level, car will oversteer somewhat but when pushed real hard. Its actually pretty neutral. I would expect an RWD to break loose a little faster but would not be worried to much about it. Mind you my garage queen is an S2000 with 10 year old RE11 that will snap over-steer all day so I find the 340 pretty tame in that regard .

To be completely transparent I also have Dinan's springs and I drive with BMW Adaptive Dampers in Sport + which favors oversteer.

[Lancelot]

Originally Posted by CJ421

I don't think a stiff rear sway bar is a good idea, especially with an open diff. On a RWD car there needs to be some independence in the rear suspension movement (the left wheel movement not affecting the right wheel movement and vice versa) so the rear tires stay in contact with the ground. Look under BMW CCA race cars, etc - very thin rear sways, if they even run one.

The front, on the other hand, you can go very stiff. The front of the car doesn't need to roll in order to transfer weight. You accomplish weight transfer just by turning the steering wheel, that is what makes the car turn, not body roll.

So reduce roll up front and allow some roll in the rear.

Charles

Reflects my experience as well;

Stiff rear even with LSD isn't desirable, in case of lifting inside wheel even if wheel spin is controlled you obviously lose contact and therefore stability, and ability to put down power.

Stiff front allows for sharp controlled turn in.

Then with LSD you get to control oversteer with throttle.

[brigade24]

Originally Posted by Lancelot

Reflects my experience as well;

Stiff rear even with LSD isn't desirable, in case of lifting inside wheel even if wheel spin is controlled you obviously lose contact and therefore stability, and ability to put down power.

Stiff front allows for sharp controlled turn in.

Then with LSD you get to control oversteer with throttle.

it really depends on the application and the driver's preference/style. I can see why on a race track, it would more favourable to have a thinner rear bar since at speed it is conducive to rear grip. The required inputs on a race track are slower than lets say in autox and there's "time" to settle the car before the next element. Logic tells me however, that a bigger rear bar will do a better job of planting the front tires and will keep the inside rear wheel down so the LSD can do its work.

[B58 parts]

Do you mind sharing how much it cost to get them installed?

[Foriegnmonkey1]

Hey guys have a 340i RWD with m sport and adaptive suspension got the dinan shockware
Are the dinan sways any good and what setting would you guys have in the rear so it doesn't completely take away the independent suspension. Just want the body roll to go down a bit and have more feel on the corners.
Don't want it to be a track car by any means

[FaRKle!]

The Dinan sway bars are good IMO, especially if you go to higher spring rates since they're not too stiff. I'd start on full soft for both front and rear.

Since you're RWD, you also have a lot of options for front and rear bars. You could pair another different front bar with the Dinan rear if you wanted. I have a brand new Dinan rear sway bar for sale here. Where in CA are you?

[F82Tazmanian]

Hey there,

I had a good experience with them on the 340i when they were set to middle stiffness on both F & R. I tried to do softer out back versus front and it created an awkward imbalance. Then, I went full stiff F & R but that took away too much independence and created a very skittish ride.

Stick to medium all around if you get the Dinan springs as well, otherwise go full soft.

[Foriegnmonkey1]

Originally Posted by 440iGCCB

Hey there,

I had a good experience with them on the 340i when they were set to middle stiffness on both F & R. I tried to do softer out back versus front and it created an awkward imbalance. Then, I went full stiff F & R but that took away too much independence and created a very skittish ride.

Stick to medium all around if you get the Dinan springs as well, otherwise go full soft.

Hey so I got the Dinan Sways installed on my 340i M sport w/ adaptive suspension + dinan shockware
Got it done for $800 at my mechanic (I know pretty crazy)
Right now it's not really feeling too planted... the turn ins are a bit better but still the car seems to flop around a bit before straightening out the wheel...
I've got the front and back sways set in the middle setting... anybody have any suggestions on how I should adjust it or what I should do.
(I don't want lowering springs because I already have a front splitter and it'll be impossible to go up my driveway. Plus had dinan Springs on my older 340i non M it sucked.) but if anybody sees this please help!

[brigade24]

Originally Posted by Foriegnmonkey1

Hey so I got the Dinan Sways installed on my 340i M sport w/ adaptive suspension + dinan shockware
Got it done for $800 at my mechanic (I know pretty crazy)
Right now it's not really feeling too planted... the turn ins are a bit better but still the car seems to flop around a bit before straightening out the wheel...
I've got the front and back sways set in the middle setting... anybody have any suggestions on how I should adjust it or what I should do.
(I don't want lowering springs because I already have a front splitter and it'll be impossible to go up my driveway. Plus had dinan Springs on my older 340i non M it sucked.) but if anybody sees this please help!

You could set it to the stiffest setting which is the first hole (hole closest to the front of the car). I felt a reasonable difference when i went from the middle to first hole. The front end link is easy to deal with. The rear is a different story, you might have to remove the rear shock to get the sway bar portion of rear end link off if the threaded portion begins to spin with the nut. the Threaded portion can accommodate a male torx bit to hold the threaded portion still while removing the nut with a box wrench. In order to get the torx bit in there, the rear shock may need to be removed.

[Foriegnmonkey1]

Originally Posted by brigade24

You could set it to the stiffest setting which is the first hole (hole closest to the front of the car). I felt a reasonable difference when i went from the middle to first hole. The front end link is easy to deal with. The rear is a different story, you might have to remove the rear shock to get the sway bar portion of rear end link off if the threaded portion begins to spin with the nut. the Threaded portion can accommodate a male torx bit to hold the threaded portion still while removing the nut with a box wrench. In order to get the torx bit in there, the rear shock may need to be removed.

Okay awesome, anyway my shop is doing it for me. So you recommend stiffest in the front and stiff in the back? Or should I leave it in middle

[brigade24]

Originally Posted by Foriegnmonkey1

Okay awesome, anyway my shop is doing it for me. So you recommend stiffest in the front and stiff in the back? Or should I leave it in middle

Yes, go with stiffest setting in front and rear.

i tried middle in the front and stiffest in the rear and it felt "out of sync". the front had more grip but rolled alot more and since the rear had less compliance it wanted to swing around.

if you only stiffen the front and leave the rear in the middle, the car will have a tendency to understeer which you don't want.