[Breezin]

So I think I'm ready to start the modding process but very slowly and very selective. I'm being selective because i did get an extended warranty for the additional 4 years and would try to not to void it with performace parts that i can clearly identify wouldn't be the root cause of something. First i want to get a catted downpipe; but will this throw a CEL? And from what im reading the only way to not have a CEL is with a jb4 or BM3 tune, correct?

Next i was thinking about a charge pipe and with all the threads on this im pretty well informed that yes it would void my warranty, however i doubt there would be in any way they could prove that a aftermarket charge pipe could cause any problems, correct me if im wrong.

Then i was thinking about getting a jb+, would that clear the code of the CEL from the downpipe? I believe my car is fast enough as it is therefore im not really interested in pushing my car with a stage 1 or 2 tune.

Any advice would be appreciated and i understand these topics are highly debatable and I'm not trying to start a war just trying to get an idea of what people think about this setup to start. I have each brand of performance part picked out so no need to sell me on whatever one you have on your car.

DISCLAIMER: I did a forum search for these topics and they all turned into a war and was hard to follow what was going on!

Thank you in advance for your advice and knowledge it will be greatly appreciated!

[uncleruckus]

The JB+ is a simple boost controller and does not have ability to suppress CEL, if you get JB4 or any other tunes, the JB+ is not needed or required (the JB4 is more advanced version of JB+). This is what most people get that just want a simple tune/boost to their power without modifying much else (it literally takes less than 3 minutes to install/remove). JB+ does not have ability to adapt/take advantage of your other mods (it simply tricks the ECU/DME into providing more boost). A lot of those on lease or still under warranty will go with this option.

Depending on which version of JB4 you get, it may or may not suppress the CEL from catless downpipe. IIRC, the newer versions of JB4 CANNOT suppress CEL codes.

BM3 should have the ability to suppress CEL without issues, however it is a full flash tune and most likely easier to detect from a warranty perspective (however I do not know this 100%).

Instead of a catless downpipe, I would recommend getting aftermarket interooler and CP upgrade first. The CP in the N55 engines are a bit weaker and known to pop off/crack, so I would get this first and foremost before increasing power.

[Breezin]

Originally Posted by uncleruckus

The JB+ is a simple boost controller and does not have ability to suppress CEL, if you get JB4 or any other tunes, the JB+ is not needed or required (the JB4 is more advanced version of JB+). This is what most people get that just want a simple tune/boost to their power without modifying much else (it literally takes less than 3 minutes to install/remove). JB+ does not have ability to adapt/take advantage of your other mods (it simply tricks the ECU/DME into providing more boost). A lot of those on lease or still under warranty will go with this option.

Depending on which version of JB4 you get, it may or may not suppress the CEL from catless downpipe. IIRC, the newer versions of JB4 CANNOT suppress CEL codes.

BM3 should have the ability to suppress CEL without issues, however it is a full flash tune and most likely easier to detect from a warranty perspective (however I do not know this 100%).

Instead of a catless downpipe, I would recommend getting aftermarket interooler and CP upgrade first. The CP in the N55 engines are a bit weaker and known to pop off/crack, so I would get this first and foremost before increasing power.

Thank you for your input, now i wasn't asking for brands but however i have not done my research on intercoolers. I checked out the dinan one but is there one you would recommend? I'm assuming it would be cheaper than anything dinan too?

[alohasurftoad]

while posting here in the "general" subforums is perfectly fine, you'd get much better response in the N55 subforums, here...

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1473388

regarding warranty, since the downpipe and piggy back sport tune you are considering add hp/torque, they are also your biggest warranty liability. even if removed, both leave trace that is detectable if the need arises.

although you have your brands picked out, you should know, not all catted downpipes are equal. be sure it has a 300-cell catalyst(typically by HJS Euro) if you want the highest possibility of no CEL. HFDP with 300-cell usually cost $1300 and up.

only flash and early jb4 piggy can clear CEL. sport piggy back cannot clear CEL.

[Breezin]

Originally Posted by alohasurftoad

while posting here in the "general" subforums is perfectly fine, you'd get much better response in the N55 subforums, here...

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1473388

regarding warranty, since the downpipe and piggy back sport tune you are considering add hp/torque, they are also your biggest warranty liability. even if removed, both leave trace that is detectable if the need arises.

although you have your brands picked out, you should know, not all catted downpipes are equal. be sure it has a 300-cell catalyst(typically by HJS Euro) if you want the highest possibility of no CEL. HFDP with 300-cell usually cost $1300 and up.

only flash and early jb4 piggy can clear CEL. sport piggy back cannot clear CEL.

Thank you i agree from looking at the N55 forums that is def the place that i should be looking. I appreciate that greatly (Should have checked it out a long time ago) but thank you i am new to the forums.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Agree with uncleruckus post. It's thought out & logical for a lite tune. Ran a similar JB4 package in a 335is (N54). My N55 is a JB4 only.

The JB4 gives a lot more usable functionally than the JB+. My stock charge pipe broke twice at 18.5PSI. The FMIC will not give you more power but will retain what you have longer.

Flash tunes will usually trip a counter in the ECU where piggy backs tend to slip through undetected without a serious look by the tech people.

Some flash tunes claim to spoof the counter but have no experience with one so can't comment.

[cfm56d7b]

First - welcome and congratulations. 2015 BMW 335i xDrive sedan is a great vehicle. I owned 2013 version of the same vehicle.

Modifications typically fall in several major categories - each one with a prioritized list and budget of course.

1. Engine performance
2. Suspension behavior
3. Wheels / tires
4. Cosmetic
5. Audio / entertainment / navigation
6. Preventive (charge piple replacement would be one of the first items)

N55 engine can be tuned within a wide range but it does have an OEM charge pipe made of plastic. Replacement charge pipe from Evolution Racewerks is about $300 + 2 hours labor.

Looking forward to updates about your mods!

[Korvo]

As someone previously mentioned, go for the chargepipe and intercooler before you touch the DP. Don't spend $900 on a Dinan intercooler though. There are cheaper options with great performance. I went with Active Autowerks for $350 and couldn't be happier. Wagner, ATM, AA, and VSRF all make good intercoolers for well below the cost of Dinan. If you can find a used Dinan one, go for it! I wait until I find their stuff used because of how spendy it is new.

For the CP, ER is a great brand and is probably the most popular (high quality) brand for the N55. Replace this before you do anything else, as they are known to blow at stock boost pressure.

The mod war is real. It's pretty hard to suggest something without someone else attacking your choice for being too expensive, cheap, whatever.... Watch your back and start modding!

[Breezin]

Thank you all for the advice, the charge pipe is at the top of my list for my first "Mod" that being said i will be getting the ER CP it seems to be a popular must, and it looks like i will be adding the FMIC 2nd in line after the CP. I'm starting to believe that dinan is basically BMW with the same price, which doesn't seem logical to pay that amount for something like you guys have said, there are other options. Out of curiosity how hard would it be to change out the FMIC on my own, i believe I'm pretty mechanically inclined but when it comes to fabrication to make things fit that is where i draw the line. Thank you all again. As for the jb4 would it make more sense to get that first and maybe think about the DP later on?

[Korvo]

Originally Posted by Breezin

Thank you all for the advice, the charge pipe is at the top of my list for my first "Mod" that being said i will be getting the ER CP it seems to be a popular must, and it looks like i will be adding the FMIC 2nd in line after the CP. I'm starting to believe that dinan is basically BMW with the same price, which doesn't seem logical to pay that amount for something like you guys have said, there are other options. Out of curiosity how hard would it be to change out the FMIC on my own, i believe I'm pretty mechanically inclined but when it comes to fabrication to make things fit that is where i draw the line. Thank you all again. As for the jb4 would it make more sense to get that first and maybe think about the DP later on?

Most of the FMIC's you find will be bolt up versions with no mods needed. I replaced mine in my garage on race ramps. Take the belly pan out, remove the CP from the stock fmic, remove the TIC from the stock FMIC, and then it's held in by two bolts.

If you have the time and money, buy the CP and FMIC together and install together.

The hardest part about the FMIC install was getting the old pipes off the old FMIC.

Definitely go for the tune before the DP. Some tunes take the DP into account.

[grassy_91]

Originally Posted by Breezin

Thank you all for the advice, the charge pipe is at the top of my list for my first "Mod" that being said i will be getting the ER CP it seems to be a popular must, and it looks like i will be adding the FMIC 2nd in line after the CP. I'm starting to believe that dinan is basically BMW with the same price, which doesn't seem logical to pay that amount for something like you guys have said, there are other options. Out of curiosity how hard would it be to change out the FMIC on my own, i believe I'm pretty mechanically inclined but when it comes to fabrication to make things fit that is where i draw the line. Thank you all again. As for the jb4 would it make more sense to get that first and maybe think about the DP later on?

Congrats and have fun! ER parts are very high quality and I got the chance to meet the owners at their warehouse since it’s a 15 minute drive from where I live. Go with a chargepipe first and then look into a tune! You can do a jb4 or bootmod3, but I would highly recommend tuning your car before adding a down pipe or intercooler as you’ll really see the full potential of those bolt ons. Another word of advice: try getting most of your parts (besides suspension) used. You can save a ton of money that way and put those savings towards gas or your insurance.

Have fun!

[Mountain_Commando]

Originally Posted by Breezin

So I think I'm ready to start the modding process but very slowly and very selective. I'm being selective because i did get an extended warranty for the additional 4 years and would try to not to void it with performace parts that i can clearly identify wouldn't be the root cause of something.

MHD ftw mate. Tried and tested for the N55. ++80hp without a single bolt on. All you need is a phone and an internet connection. Revert to stock within 2 minutes, your dealer will never know and your warranty stay in tact. Cheaper than BM3.

[jgoens]

Originally Posted by Breezin

Then i was thinking about getting a jb+, would that clear the code of the CEL from the downpipe? I believe my car is fast enough as it is therefore im not really interested in pushing my car with a stage 1 or 2.

Thank you in advance for your advice and knowledge it will be greatly appreciated!

Not understanding what your goal is. When you start talking about performance mods it is to increase power. While chargepipes do break stock, most people don't change them with stock power and warranty.
A DP does improve sound, but if that is the goal, might as well go for an exhaust and call it a day.