[cxmplex]

With the TU pump being only $450 now, vs $800+ that it was before, I figured a few more people will try and switch.

When I got my BMW I was a novice at car work. I've made quite a few mistakes that I've learned from, and figured I'd share them here in regards to the HPFP.

1. You need a torque wrench that goes as low as 12NM/8.8ft/lbs, most are 10ft/lbs-XXX. This is generally only 3/8th or smaller drive torque wrenches. I recommend the ACDelco 3/8" Digital Torque Wrench, or the cheaper TEKTON 1/4 Inch Drive. More experienced people can wing this by stopping right before 10 ft/lbs on a normal torque wrench (10-XXX range). I would not recommend doing 10 ft/lbs however. By feel, it's just slightly after it starts to give resistance. I bought this ACDelco and have not had any issues with low torque bolts, it's great but a little expensive.

2. The HPFP bolts are insanely easy to break. If you encounter any real resistance at all, just stop. Don't even try turning it a little bit more, it will break everytime. If you're removing the bolts, get some penetrating fluid in there, but be careful not to spray too much.

You can replace these bolts with OEM (13517632572) or Everbilt M6-1.0 x 25 mm Plain Steel Socket Cap Screw from home depot. These match 1:1, and it should be strong enough, you'll need a M5 hex. I'd generally suggest using the OEM isa bolts just to be safe, but the home depot ones will work for the HPFP if you need them quickly. The OEM has some thread sealant on it, so apply that as well if you buy some from HD. OEM also has a flat washer, again, same section in HD.

3. Buy a new gasket (11128633750) every time you change your HPFP. The gasket might look fine, but it's slightly deformed every time, you want a new one or else you'll likely end up dripping oil from improper alignment, and could also ruin your HPFP.

4. Buy new bolts every time you change your HPPF. I believe the OEM are single-use.

- If your car has never had it's HPFP changed, mine came without a gasket, which might be legit if it's installed by some robot machinery in the factory. Don't try not using a gasket, it's a recipe for failure.

Broken/Sheared HPFP Bolt

This is a bad situation, but recoverable. First things first, remove the HPFP and make sure to cover everything but the bolt hole locations to avoid contamination / foreign objects falling in.

If there is any part of the bolt sticking above the hole, try using needle nose pliers to twist it back out. This works almost every time if there is enough for the pliers to grip onto.

If not, then you need to extract it. People have different ways to go about doing this, and I can't recommend any foolproof way. When in doubt, just take it to a mechanic or even the dealership to do. What generally works for low torque bolts like this is using a screw extractor. It's hard to break a screw extractor on low torque bolts, so you'll usually have success, here's my method for a clean break:

Take a center punch and create a divot in the near-exact center of the bolt. I bought these Spring Tools ones off amazon, they work great and are 100x stronger than normal spring (the one where you push the top until it punches) center punches.

With that divot created, take a center bit around the size of the extractor drill bit (if it doesn't come with a drill bit then use one close to the extractor size) and drill into the bolt. Make sure you are drilling straight into the center, if you hit the threads you're screwed.

Then, use the included drill bit or one a similar size, and drill into the bolt, making sure again, that you are drilling straight into the center.

Then, put the extractor against the hole, generally it doesn't just slide in or you drilled too big of a hole, and use a light hammer tap to get it on in there.

Then take a wrench, pliers, whatever, and twist the bolt slowly out by gripping the extractor, using penetrating fluid if needed. I recomemnd a non random material chinese extractor, buy American/wherever else for this, or at least make sure it's strong and won't break, because if you break the extractor, you're screwed.

Clean the work area, removing the metal shavings, and any excess penetrating fluid.

I can't fit the fuel lines back on

This generally happens with the TU pump, I recommend not messing with the HPFP high pressure line side, and instead messing with the one to the right that goes into the rail. In my case, I had to slightly bend it downwards just a hair. Be insanely careful doing this, you'll likely only need to very very very slightly adjust it. Don't crossthread it when frustrated / trying to get it to fit, that's a recipe for disaster.

My exhaust has white smoke

This means you misaligned the HPFP, and it's likely dripping oil, which is pooling under the HPFP and then dripping onto the cat/downpipe. The downpipe is hot, causing the oil to smoke, and you end up with some white smoke out the exhaust. You can try reinstalling it, you might need a new gasket. Make sure when installing it that you slowly twist each bolt maybe 1-2 turns each, alternating between them.

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Overall, I would rate replacing the HPFP as low difficulty if you follow instructions. It's very easy to remove the strut bar, the plastic cover, and the foam insulation. From there you have nice access to the HPFP. All together this only requires a torque wrench, ratchet wrench, E18 for strut, 10mm for plastic cover, 17 or 18mm wrench for the fuel line connectors, and a T30. Takes around 30m-1hr.

After that, the MHD hpfp OTS map works great for your daily driver/street car, you'll max out your stock turbo.

[TunaFlapjack]

Cheers for this infomation it will be usefull to all thoes who undertake this work themselves.

Im just in the process of getting all the bits together to do the swap myself, But I have one question, I read people saying not to Torque down the M10's to 56Nm+90 as ITSA+ states? Some say 30Nm and others say hand tighten and stop.

Can i ask what you did when it came to refitting the strut?

Cheers

TF

[Dpwhit3]

Thanks for posting this. Plan on potentially doing mine this summer and will be using this guide

[E90ROXS]

Another tip on putting back the fuel rail. Make sure you align the fuel rail before you tighten the pump. It will make your life much easier. This is the trick that I learned from Kern417 Youtube channel.

[TunaFlapjack]

Kern417 knows his stuff on the B58, however i have seen on the Williams performance guide on install it says fit the pump first and torque down before trying the hardlines.

I think this is so that the hardlines don't push the pump to be seated incorrectly

[g340ix]

One very important thing is missing, you need to tighten each of the (2) hpfp bolts little by little going back and forth, so that the pump tightens down evenly. Then you do the hardlines after, not before.

[E90ROXS]

Originally Posted by TunaFlapjack

Kern417 knows his stuff on the B58, however i have seen on the Williams performance guide on install it says fit the pump first and torque down before trying the hardlines.

I think this is so that the hardlines don't push the pump to be seated incorrectly

If you're installing a TU pump with the non TU hard line, it's impossible to get it in place.

[TunaFlapjack]

Originally Posted by E90ROXS

If you're installing a TU pump with the non TU hard line, it's impossible to get it in place.

It can be done when the pump is torqued up as this is how i fitted mine the hardline just needs a little persuasion/man handling 😆

[Skyhigh]

Correct. Of course it is possible - so many (hundreds or thousands) of us have done it.

[TunaFlapjack]

Originally Posted by Skyhigh

Correct. Of course it is possible - so many (hundreds or thousands) of us have done it.

What torqued down the pump before fitting the hardline?

It is more trickier but i was more interested in getting the pump seated correctly first.

Im glad im the 1001 person to do it it this way.

[Skyhigh]

Not sure I even understand the issue. You install the HPFP first with the correct torque, then fit the fuel lines with some gentle tweaking and even pressure. Didn’t take more than 5 min after the pump was in.

[TunaFlapjack]

You're my hero

[Pussiwillow]

Does the TU fuel pipe fit gen 1? I got my line to fit but it leaves me uneasy (little ocd) and would feel better using the TU pipe in place of it. Thanks

[itzjoker]

So I stripped the a hole on one of the bolts due to misalignment, bolt is in but not very tight, other is torqued to spec. Have been driving around with no issues but I want to get this fixed.

I've read about the helicoil and time-sert method which has been often used for aluminum bolt holes.

Will I have any issues drilling this steel? cover (blue circle) over the aluminum? (I have N63TU)

[B58 parts]

Originally Posted by itzjoker

So I stripped the a hole on one of the bolts due to misalignment, bolt is in but not very tight, other is torqued to spec. Have been driving around with no issues but I want to get this fixed.

I've read about the helicoil and time-sert method which has been often used for aluminum bolt holes.

Will I have any issues drilling this steel? cover (blue circle) over the aluminum? (I have N63TU)

Sorry

That whole stand comes out. You could just replace that. Unfortunately they don't sell it separately.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_6448

I'd try to find a blown up / destroyed b58 head and just get that piece. Good luck. Helicoil would work but watch out for swarf. I wouldn't want to do it. You can probably find a destroyed head from a recycler for a few dollars.

Never mind I just noticed you said you have an n63 so I'm not sure why you're posting in the b58 forum. Honestly the n63 is one of the the worst engines ever made you should sell that car today.

[itzjoker]

Originally Posted by B58 parts

Sorry

That whole stand comes out. You could just replace that. Unfortunately they don't sell it separately.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_6448

I'd try to find a blown up / destroyed b58 head and just get that piece. Good luck. Helicoil would work but watch out for swarf. I wouldn't want to do it. You can probably find a destroyed head from a recycler for a few dollars.

Never mind I just noticed you said you have an n63 so I'm not sure why you're posting in the b58 forum. Honestly the n63 is one of the the worst engines ever made you should sell that car today.

I posted here since I was searching for HPFP thread repair and I'm assuming the setup is similar on B58 being a BMW. The camshaft follower cap was what I was looking for (circled in picture) and you are correct, I'll need to find a recycled piece. Helicoil or time-sert might be my best option for now. I agree N63 is notorious for being shit but mine is a TU and has been bulletproof for the 5 years I've owned it now.

[sigterm2.0]

Originally Posted by Pussiwillow

Does the TU fuel pipe fit gen 1? I got my line to fit but it leaves me uneasy (little ocd) and would feel better using the TU pipe in place of it. Thanks

EDIT: I misread the question...

I did mine a little over a week ago, using my original gen1 hardlines. All I replaced was the pump. They're right, though, you'll spend more time removing plastics and rubber stripping than actually removing and installing the pump. Takes 5 minutes to remove and install the new pump.

I did the two things that people have been talking about in this thread... I did fitted the pump first, going back and forth turning a half turn on each bolt until it was torqued so that it went in evenly, and then fitted the hardlines. The input hardline took some gentle "realigning" but output lined up perfectly for me. I had loosened it from the rail though so I could move it around.

But.. it was easy peasy...

[Pussiwillow]

Originally Posted by sigterm2.0

EDIT: I misread the question...

I did mine a little over a week ago, using my original gen1 hardlines. All I replaced was the pump. They're right, though, you'll spend more time removing plastics and rubber stripping than actually removing and installing the pump. Takes 5 minutes to remove and install the new pump.

I did the two things that people have been talking about in this thread... I did fitted the pump first, going back and forth turning a half turn on each bolt until it was torqued so that it went in evenly, and then fitted the hardlines. The input hardline took some gentle "realigning" but output lined up perfectly for me. I had loosened it from the rail though so I could move it around.

But.. it was easy peasy...

Ya for sure I got it fitted, did a little light tweaking and it fits, however I always trigger some ocd when I have to make something fit. lol
Going to order the tu line next week just to ease my head. I’ve put a few hundred miles on the car no issue but ya.