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      01-14-2022, 01:24 AM   #1
F30Maro
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N20 knocking on acceleration only (engine ended up seizing lmao)

Hey guys so the other day I got an oil change done. I change oil every 2500-3500 miles. On the way home, I noticed a clicking sound as I'm pulling into my street and didn't think much of it. Today I tried investigating a little more and it's driving me nuts cause it only happens when accelerating. I can't figure out where the sound is coming from. Sound is only present at low rpms usually in 1st 2nd and 3rd gear and also a bit louder when making turns at low rpms. I have attached a video of the noise. does someone have any idea what it could be from? Please and thank you


Edit as of January 18th 2022: my engine is seized. Opened the oil filter and it was full of metal shavings.


https://youtube.com/shorts/fpE2sbLzhZw?feature=share
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      01-14-2022, 05:04 PM   #2
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Sounds just like rod knock. Running a tune?
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      01-14-2022, 05:17 PM   #3
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Does it do it when the car is in N or P? Under revs?

Have you checked the oil level on the system.

It sounds like rod knock having listened again.

BMW manuals require the oil pressure light to go out 8 seconds (I think it's that long) after starting up after a oil change, if not switch of straight away to avoid running dry on low pressure after a change. I Always recommend putting oil on the new filter, in the housing and letting it drain back to the sump after a change. Then flipping the ignition a few times so it just spins up to just start moving the oil about before firing up again.


Here a video of rod knock

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      01-14-2022, 06:52 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DG330 View Post
Does it do it when the car is in N or P? Under revs?

Have you checked the oil level on the system.

It sounds like rod knock having listened again.

BMW manuals require the oil pressure light to go out 8 seconds (I think it's that long) after starting up after a oil change, if not switch of straight away to avoid running dry on low pressure after a change. I Always recommend putting oil on the new filter, in the housing and letting it drain back to the sump after a change. Then flipping the ignition a few times so it just spins up to just start moving the oil about before firing up again.


Here a video of rod knock

Hey thank you for reply, I was actually coming back to update this post today. I had to drive the car today to the mechanic and I regret doing that. He told me we just have to change the alternator and might as well change the serpentine belt and pulley while we're at it. Sadly, on the way back, I started hearing worse noises from the car. When I got home, the clicking was happening at idle now and extremely loud. What he told me was that one of the bearings in the alternator broke and by the time I got home, they all broke and that's why the sound was very bad. Here is the video I recorded for him when I got home.

Edit 1: no the car isn't tuned. It's been on stock map for a week or so.

Edit 2: sorry if I made u think the car was manual. It's not. It's an automatic. Also the car stuttered every other time when I came to a red light. I'm so scared…

https://youtube.com/shorts/WtRZ4jbHj3U?feature=share
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      01-14-2022, 07:03 PM   #5
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Does not sound good. Very interested to hear the outcome, best of luck being something fixable without spending crazy money.

How many miles?
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      01-14-2022, 07:11 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
Does not sound good. Very interested to hear the outcome, best of luck being something fixable without spending crazy money.

How many miles?
Only 87k. Something is telling me maybe it's bad oil. I've been running the car on liqui Molly off of FCP EURO since I bought it (76-79k I don't remember the miles when I bought it) and the other day the people changing the oil put Mobil 1 synthetic. Could that be an issue?
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      01-14-2022, 07:38 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F30Maro View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
Does not sound good. Very interested to hear the outcome, best of luck being something fixable without spending crazy money.

How many miles?
Only 87k. Something is telling me maybe it's bad oil. I've been running the car on liqui Molly off of FCP EURO since I bought it (76-79k I don't remember the miles when I bought it) and the other day the people changing the oil put Mobil 1 synthetic. Could that be an issue?
Not likely due to oil type but could be under filled. Have you checked the oil level with the onboard computer?
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      01-14-2022, 08:22 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by F30Maro View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
Does not sound good. Very interested to hear the outcome, best of luck being something fixable without spending crazy money.

How many miles?
Only 87k. Something is telling me maybe it's bad oil. I've been running the car on liqui Molly off of FCP EURO since I bought it (76-79k I don't remember the miles when I bought it) and the other day the people changing the oil put Mobil 1 synthetic. Could that be an issue?
Not likely due to oil type but could be under filled. Have you checked the oil level with the onboard computer?
Yes I measured it at the shop and it was on Max
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      01-15-2022, 03:14 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F30Maro View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by DG330 View Post
Does it do it when the car is in N or P? Under revs?

Have you checked the oil level on the system.

It sounds like rod knock having listened again.

BMW manuals require the oil pressure light to go out 8 seconds (I think it's that long) after starting up after a oil change, if not switch of straight away to avoid running dry on low pressure after a change. I Always recommend putting oil on the new filter, in the housing and letting it drain back to the sump after a change. Then flipping the ignition a few times so it just spins up to just start moving the oil about before firing up again.


Here a video of rod knock

Hey thank you for reply, I was actually coming back to update this post today. I had to drive the car today to the mechanic and I regret doing that. He told me we just have to change the alternator and might as well change the serpentine belt and pulley while we're at it. Sadly, on the way back, I started hearing worse noises from the car. When I got home, the clicking was happening at idle now and extremely loud. What he told me was that one of the bearings in the alternator broke and by the time I got home, they all broke and that's why the sound was very bad. Here is the video I recorded for him when I got home.

Edit 1: no the car isn't tuned. It's been on stock map for a week or so.

Edit 2: sorry if I made u think the car was manual. It's not. It's an automatic. Also the car stuttered every other time when I came to a red light. I'm so scared…

https://youtube.com/shorts/WtRZ4jbHj3U?feature=share
That's crazy, although it does now sound slightly different to rod knock as it's less metallic.

Fingers crossed it's just the alternator and belt etc and not rod knock. That's a far cheaper solution
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      05-13-2022, 03:52 PM   #10
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Hi Maro, whats was the solution, i hope was the alternator, i have a similar sound. :/
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      05-13-2022, 10:28 PM   #11
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Read post #1 again, especially the part where he says Edit as of January 18th 2022: my engine is seized. Opened the oil filter and it was full of metal shavings.
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      07-06-2023, 03:50 PM   #12
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Any idea on what caused the engine to seize ?
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