[F30MGM]

Just hit 4k miles on my 340i so i did a oil change, straight forward process:

1. Jack up car on jack stands and make sure it is secure(Not responsible for any deaths)

2. Open oil cap so oil drains nicely.


3. Pop off cover for oil drain with a flat head



4. Get 17mm socket to drain oil, there was no crush washer on my car but the oil filter came with one so i used it.

5. Take out oil filter. You will need a 32mm socket to take it out.




6. Replace oil filter with new filter

7. At this point your oil be drained are almost all the way drained out. Once its drained of course tighten the drain plug with new crush washer.

8. Refill with a 7 quarts of oil of your choice, I personally used Castrol 0w-30 European formula.

9. Enjoy the extra 20hp you gained from a oil change

[//M]

You should make a slight edit. It's better to remove the fill cap after you remove the drain bolt, this will allow you a little bit more time (better still move quick) to get the bolt out of the way before it starts flowing out. Just remember the drain flow will extend further out once you remove the fill cap so line it up your catch receptacle appropriately.

[eluded]

Nice write up.

Does the car take exactly 7 quarts?

[ErkanTR16]

Thanks for the DIY.

Thinking about doing mine as well. Just hit 4K Miles.

[Mauricio Palacios. MD]

Hi and thanks. Does the oil cap still has the "BMW recommends Castrol" legend? A picture would be nice...



Thank you, again...

[RoundelM3]

This would go great in the DIY/Coding section of this forum...

[XRAVE]

Originally Posted by F30MGM

Just hit 4k miles on my 340i so i did a oil change, straight forward process:

1. Jack up car on jack stands and make sure it is secure(Not responsible for any deaths)

2. Open oil cap so oil

3. Pop off cover for oil drain with a flat head
[
4. Get 17mm socket to drain oil, there was no crush washer on my car but the oil filter came with one so i used it.

5. Take out oil filter. You will need a 32mm socket to take it

6. Replace oil filter with new filter

7. At this point your oil be drained are almost all the way drained out. Once its drained of course tighten the drain plug with new crush washer.

8. Refill with a 7 quarts of oil of your choice, I personally used Castrol 0w-30 European formula.

9. Enjoy the extra 20hp you gained from a oil change

Any benefit to running 0-30w over 0-20w?

Also link to where you got he filter?

[kentgbr]

Thanks for the information, I'm planning on a post break-in oil change as well. Is the filter housing left-hand threaded? I see a clockwise rotating arrow on the hex head.

[F30MGM]

Originally Posted by kentgbr

Thanks for the information, I'm planning on a post break-in oil change as well. Is the filter housing left-hand threaded? I see a clockwise rotating arrow on the hex head.

Left loosy Righty tighty

Originally Posted by Mauricio Palacios. MD

Hi and thanks. Does the oil cap still has the "BMW recommends Castrol" legend? A picture would be nice...



Thank you, again...

No castrol logo

Originally Posted by XRAVE

Any benefit to running 0-30w over 0-20w?

Also link to where you got he filter?

got the filter from dealer $21.xx, i couldve used a shop discoun but i forgo the number to my buddys shop. and no benefit that i know of except i had 0w-30 laying around

[rambalu80]

Originally Posted by F30MGM

I personally used Castrol 0w-30 European formula.

I thought the B58 engines required 0W-20?
Although I don't have the sticker under the hood, see this: http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...91&postcount=4

[F30MGM]

Originally Posted by rambalu80

I thought the B58 engines required 0W-20?
Although I don't have the sticker under the hood, see this: http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...91&postcount=4

on TMS website:

BMW's newest TwinPower Turbo engine oil is LL14 FE+ certified. It meets BMW's standards for LongLife 2014 ("LL14") and improved fuel economy ("FE+"). In testing, BMW saw a 3% improvement in fuel economy over the LL01 5W30 in the N20 4-cylinder. The new 0W20 replaces the previous 5W30 oil used in some 4-cylinder and 6-cylinder BMW models and is the standard oil for the new B-series modular engines (B46, B48, B58). As of December 2015, BMW has not backdated the 0W20 for any other engines.

Beginning with July 2015 production, new models came with 0W20 or 0W30 BMW oil. However, BMW dealerships continued to sell 5W30 until that stock was depleted. The 5W30 is an acceptable alternative to the 0W20 and 0W30 BMW oil per BMW's service bulletin.

0W20 oil is to be released in 2016.

so from my understanding its okay to use any LL-01 approved oil

[drexplode]

how in the hell did you get the oil filter out? Did you remove a bunch of stuff?

Way more complicated than the N55 which was integrated into the oil cooler.

[F30MGM]

i just used a 32mm socket and a fine tooth ratcheting wrench, and also it helps to move the wire above it out of the way, i did that so i dont get oil everywhere, i try to keep a clean engine bay. And i guess i got used to working with tight spaces coming from a e46 whose ccv went bad more than once, ive done my fair share of tight spaces and taking my arm out with a bunch of dirty oily cuts

[MateoTorgy]

Originally Posted by F30MGM

i just used a 32mm socket and a fine tooth ratcheting wrench, and also it helps to move the wire above it out of the way, i did that so i dont get oil everywhere, i try to keep a clean engine bay. And i guess i got used to working with tight spaces coming from a e46 whose ccv went bad more than once, ive done my fair share of tight spaces and taking my arm out with a bunch of dirty oily cuts

Thank you for this thread. A few questions from a new BMW owner (340i xDrive w/ M Sport Pkg).

Engine Cover
Does the engine cover simply pop off by detaching it from those attachment points that look like pawns on a chess board? Or are there screws near the firewall / cabin air filter area that I'm not seeing (like some of the older ones have)? Do you recommend any particular technique in removing the cover? Are there any hoses or wires attached to the underside of the engine cover that I need to worry about when removing it?

Filter Housing Access
Is removal of the engine cover the only "disassembly" necessary to gain access to the filter housing?
Did you need to use a ratchet with a rotating head or socket extension with a wobble function, etc...? In looking at my engine bay, I'm having a hard time believing I'll be able to get my hand in and out of the area between the engine and that fuse box -- with or without the filter.

I'm sorry to bombard you with so many questions, but it appears you are the first individual in the world to post a "how to" DIY oil change thread for the 340i, and I don't want to wreck anything on my wife's new car when doing the first mid-interval oil change.

Thank you!

[drexplode]

Originally Posted by F30MGM

i just used a 32mm socket and a fine tooth ratcheting wrench, and also it helps to move the wire above it out of the way, i did that so i dont get oil everywhere, i try to keep a clean engine bay. And i guess i got used to working with tight spaces coming from a e46 whose ccv went bad more than once, ive done my fair share of tight spaces and taking my arm out with a bunch of dirty oily cuts

Haha how did you remove the wire harness?

I ordered a shorty 32mm oil filter socket from ecs and plan to use a swivel and extension to remove.

The rest of the oil change process is standard BMW :-)

[bavarianride]

Originally Posted by MateoTorgy

Thank you for this thread. A few questions from a new BMW owner (340i xDrive w/ M Sport Pkg).

Engine Cover
Does the engine cover simply pop off by detaching it from those attachment points that look like pawns on a chess board? Or are there screws near the firewall / cabin air filter area that I'm not seeing (like some of the older ones have)? Do you recommend any particular technique in removing the cover? Are there any hoses or wires attached to the underside of the engine cover that I need to worry about when removing it?

Filter Housing Access
Is removal of the engine cover the only "disassembly" necessary to gain access to the filter housing?
Did you need to use a ratchet with a rotating head or socket extension with a wobble function, etc...? In looking at my engine bay, I'm having a hard time believing I'll be able to get my hand in and out of the area between the engine and that fuse box -- with or without the filter.

I'm sorry to bombard you with so many questions, but it appears you are the first individual in the world to post a "how to" DIY oil change thread for the 340i, and I don't want to wreck anything on my wife's new car when doing the first mid-interval oil change.

Thank you!

Just pop the engine cover and check, from the pictures of post#1 there is enough space.

[DrivenByE30]

Step 2 should be after step 4

Originally Posted by tifosielia

You should make a slight edit. It's better to remove the fill cap after you remove the drain bolt, this will allow you a little bit more time (better still move quick) to get the bolt out of the way before it starts flowing out. Just remember the drain flow will extend further out once you remove the fill cap so line it up your catch receptacle appropriately.

Came to say the exact same thing...

Leaving satisfied!

[JJS]

On what logical premise did BMW put the oil fill orifice towards the back of the engine and the oil filter housing buried to the side at the back as well? I thought the N55 locations are just clever, but not so the B58.

[DrivenByE30]

To make our life more difficult and discourage any of our attempts at self reliance...

They want to remove any ounce of satisfaction that we may get from working and twinkling on our/their cars

[MateoTorgy]

Originally Posted by bavarianride

Just pop the engine cover and check, from the pictures of post#1 there is enough space.

The camera was positioned between the fuse box and engine, with a close-up shot. It doesn't afford the perspective to understand that limited space. In looking at my wife's 340i, I can imagine accessing the filter housing cover with a rotating ratchet with a wobble socket extension, but I don't see how it's possible to fit a hand and arm through that space to remove an eight-inch-long filter. I'm thinking the service techs will remove the cabin air filter partition and access it from against the firewall and not between those hoses, fuse box, and engine.

[MateoTorgy]

Originally Posted by DrivenByE30

To make our life more difficult and discourage any of our attempts at self reliance...

They want to remove any ounce of satisfaction that we may get from working and twinkling on our/their cars

Shortly after buying the car, I made the mistake of registering at Bimmerfest and having the audacity of posting a question about DIY mid-interval oil changes. The posers had a meltdown over the mere suggestion of DIY maintenance. "Why would you change your oil within 10,000 miles?" "Why would you do something like that yourself?" It was crazy. Many posts about after-market window tint (installed at a shop of course), favorite BMW color, after-market lights (installed at a shop of course), etc etc etc... I don't care if modern oil is created by the hand of God Himself. I'm performing mid-interval changes within the 50,000-mile service period and every 5,000 miles thereafter. That's why I'm a little disappointed and frustrated with BMW's engineers for locating the filter housing in the ass crack and under air hoses and a fuse box.

[drexplode]

Originally Posted by MateoTorgy

Shortly after buying the car, I made the mistake of registering at Bimmerfest and having the audacity of posting a question about DIY mid-interval oil changes. The posers had a meltdown over the mere suggestion of DIY maintenance. "Why would you change your oil within 10,000 miles?" "Why would you do something like that yourself?" It was crazy. Many posts about after-market window tint (installed at a shop of course), favorite BMW color, after-market lights (installed at a shop of course), etc etc etc... I don't care if modern oil is created by the hand of God Himself. I'm performing mid-interval changes within the 50,000-mile service period and every 5,000 miles thereafter. That's why I'm a little disappointed and frustrated with BMW's engineers for locating the filter housing in the ass crack and under air hoses and a fuse box.

+1 to the location. Makes me want a N55.