[xlugoz]

My '14 435i EWG, spun a bearing a few days ago at 82k miles, and I'm weighing my options on what engine to drop in, my engine code is N55B30M0, I'm wondering if a N55HP from a ActiveHybrid5 would work as a swap, or even an M2 N5530T0, without going into too much work, would any of these engines work as a swap?

If this isn't feasible, what should I invest into instead for a better engine ? Forged internals on the new drop in?

Thank you and any advice is appreciated.

[n55david]

Originally Posted by xlugoz

My '14 435i EWG, spun a bearing a few days ago at 82k miles, and I'm weighing my options on what engine to drop in, my engine code is N55B30M0, I'm wondering if a N55HP from a ActiveHybrid5 would work as a swap, or even an M2 N5530T0, without going into too much work, would any of these engines work as a swap?

If this isn't feasible, what should I invest into instead for a better engine ? Forged internals on the new drop in?

Thank you and any advice is appreciated.

an m2 n55 would be ideal

[Pussiwillow]

Just do what you really want deep down inside, s55 swap
I see nothing but wins,
Do ittttt

[Shah_F30]

Originally Posted by Phantom10R

an m2 n55 would be ideal

Why M2

[n55david]

Originally Posted by Shah_F30

Why M2

slightly better engine components if you plan on making big power

[cfm56d7b]

Originally Posted by xlugoz

My '14 435i EWG, spun a bearing a few days ago at 82k miles, and I'm weighing my options on what engine to drop in, my engine code is N55B30M0, I'm wondering if a N55HP from a ActiveHybrid5 would work as a swap, or even an M2 N5530T0, without going into too much work, would any of these engines work as a swap?

If this isn't feasible, what should I invest into instead for a better engine ? Forged internals on the new drop in?

Thank you and any advice is appreciated.

It's best to discuss this topic with an experienced engine shop before deciding to purchase an engine not specifically intended for your vehicle. Many components have to coded after engine installation.

[1bad14-F30]

Based on my limited knowledge, my build in your situation would be an N54 closed deck block and forged crank and rods and the S55 oil pump and pan. Aftermarket turbo of choice. Should be good to go after that. Should be able to handle 600+ whp easy. My 0.02

[Bmwdoubles_]

Drop a B58 motor in it

[MTWO]

Originally Posted by Bmwdoubles_

Drop a B58 motor in it

+1

[Boostedphil698]

Close deck convert the N55 and forge thr motor and you'll never have issues again for big power. I'll be doing this from the start. Even some B58 rod bearing issues are popping up. These motors aren't indestructible. Thicwhips on YouTube spun a bearing in his B58.

[XutvJet]

Originally Posted by xlugoz

My '14 435i EWG, spun a bearing a few days ago at 82k miles, and I'm weighing my options on what engine to drop in, my engine code is N55B30M0, I'm wondering if a N55HP from a ActiveHybrid5 would work as a swap, or even an M2 N5530T0, without going into too much work, would any of these engines work as a swap?

If this isn't feasible, what should I invest into instead for a better engine ? Forged internals on the new drop in?

Thank you and any advice is appreciated.

All 14+ EWG-equipped N55s have S55 forged rods and S55 rod bearings. The N55 used in the M235 and M2 have a forged crank. The N55 in the M2 has the S55 oil windage tray, pump, etc. It's much better/safer for sustained high G driving. The M2 N55 also has slightly different pistons and rings and a slightly different turbo manifold.

If I had the choice, I'd get the N55 M2. It will be EXTREMELY hard to find a salvage one though.

The Active Hybrid N55 isn't worth the risk. It's likely quite different internally from the N55 used in the non-Active Hybrid cars.

[Boostedphil698]

Originally Posted by XutvJet

All 14+ EWG-equipped N55s have S55 forged rods and S55 rod bearings. The N55 used in the M235 and M2 have a forged crank. The N55 in the M2 has the S55 oil windage tray, pump, etc. It's much better/safer for sustained high G driving. The M2 N55 also has slightly different pistons and rings and a slightly different turbo manifold.

If I had the choice, I'd get the N55 M2. It will be EXTREMELY hard to find a salvage one though.

The Active Hybrid N55 isn't worth the risk. It's likely quite different internally from the N55 used in the non-Active Hybrid cars.

S55 rods ben at 600+ torque. H beam rods are better than I beam which come stock in our cars.

[XutvJet]

Originally Posted by Boostedphil698

S55 rods ben at 600+ torque. H beam rods are better than I beam which come stock in our cars.

True. Also true is that a lot more stuff will break or be severely compromised in the long term if your plan is to push 600wtq through a stock block N54, N55, S55, or B58. The verdict is still out on the S58. None of these short blocks were designed to survive running 600wtq. A EWG N55 or an N54? Try 500wtq. Beyond that, you're really walking on egg shells with the stock block. The B58 has issues with it's plasma coated liners once you really start cranking up the power.

[Pussiwillow]

Originally Posted by XutvJet

True. Also true is that a lot more stuff will break or be severely compromised in the long term if your plan is to push 600wtq through a stock block N54, N55, S55, or B58. The verdict is still out on the S58. None of these short blocks were designed to survive running 600wtq. A EWG N55 or an N54? Try 500wtq. Beyond that, you're really walking on egg shells with the stock block. The B58 has issues with it's plasma coated liners once you really start cranking up the power.

See I try to say this in other groups and have to put my flame suit on. B58 is like the holy grail to people now, because it makes more power than n55 on stock turbo? Cool, they're both limited to the same power levels, b58 marginally may hold together longer but realistically it's a time bomb at those levels tune depending. 550wtq is about the best level of power and keeping your engine internals inside the engine block for a respectable amount of time.

[Boostedphil698]

Originally Posted by Pussiwillow

See I try to say this in other groups and have to put my flame suit on. B58 is like the holy grail to people now, because it makes more power than n55 on stock turbo? Cool, they're both limited to the same power levels, b58 marginally may hold together longer but realistically it's a time bomb at those levels tune depending. 550wtq is about the best level of power and keeping your engine internals inside the engine block for a respectable amount of time.

100% agree with this. Closed deck engines only get so far. Rods will bend long before the block fails.

[Pussiwillow]

Originally Posted by Boostedphil698

100% agree with this. Closed deck engines only get so far. Rods will bend long before the block fails.

Rods and ring lands are gonna let go before an open deck/closed deck matters haha unless it's a dyno one hitter

[xlugoz]

Originally Posted by XutvJet

All 14+ EWG-equipped N55s have S55 forged rods and S55 rod bearings. The N55 used in the M235 and M2 have a forged crank. The N55 in the M2 has the S55 oil windage tray, pump, etc. It's much better/safer for sustained high G driving. The M2 N55 also has slightly different pistons and rings and a slightly different turbo manifold.

If I had the choice, I'd get the N55 M2. It will be EXTREMELY hard to find a salvage one though.

The Active Hybrid N55 isn't worth the risk. It's likely quite different internally from the N55 used in the non-Active Hybrid cars.

Was so close to nailing a good deal on a bad compression M2 core due to timing/valves, I really only wanted the block anyway so thought I'd close an offer on it, someone beat me to it unfortunately! Was looking forward to acquiring and documenting the build onto searching !

[ZM2]

An M2 short block from BMW is $13k.

Just out of curiosity, what do you all think the all in cost is to source and rebuild an M2 block?

With 540wtq I’m hoping I don’t have to find out someday, but you never know.

[Pussiwillow]

Originally Posted by ZM2

An M2 short block from BMW is $13k.

Just out of curiosity, what do you all think the all in cost is to source and rebuild an M2 block?

With 540wtq I'm hoping I don't have to find out someday, but you never know.

You'll be fine at 540wtq
You'd be fine at 600wtq if you move torque further into the rev range, and or not completely beat the hell out of the car, launching etc etc, roll into it etc.
Shit wedge performance m235i dct swapped made 700+ wtq and he ran many runs, no idea about it now, tho.
Ends up depending how well the tune is set up.

[xlugoz]

Originally Posted by ZM2

An M2 short block from BMW is $13k.

Just out of curiosity, what do you all think the all in cost is to source and rebuild an M2 block?

With 540wtq I'm hoping I don't have to find out someday, but you never know.

Really hard to even find any type of sellers who have a N55 M2 core, if you're lucky you could get a working one off of eBay for around 8-10k, base F series n55 cores are going for around the 4-6k range.

You'd have better luck getting a m235i core

[xlugoz]

Originally Posted by Pussiwillow

You'll be fine at 540wtq
You'd be fine at 600wtq if you move torque further into the rev range, and or not completely beat the hell out of the car, launching etc etc, roll into it etc.
Shit wedge performance m235i dct swapped made 700+ wtq and he ran many runs, no idea about it now, tho.
Ends up depending how well the tune is set up.

At the end of my engines life, I was at around 380whp/400wtq boost target 18psi (Daily driven on these settings for 2-3k miles)

It really does just depend on how serious you are with maintenance and your driving.

Given I beat the hell out of mine, I still never thought I would have seized mine after only putting 20k miles on it (acquired at 60k) (Full FBO, E40, MHD for 4–5k~)

[Pussiwillow]

Originally Posted by xlugoz

At the end of my engines life, I was at around 380whp/400wtq boost target 18psi (Daily driven on these settings for 2-3k miles)

It really does just depend on how serious you are with maintenance and your driving.

Given I beat the hell out of mine, I still never thought I would have seized mine after only putting 20k miles on it (acquired at 60k) (Full FBO, E40, MHD for 4–5k~)

Man that's unfortunate luck, no doubt the engine is stout enough to handle good power, having a rod bearing take out the engine is frustrating to say the least. It makes me nervous enough to switch mine out as I'm at 80k.
I think if mine goes, I'll hunt down an s55 and dct since the car is paid off and is my fun car, I drive it once a week so I can have it down if need be ha.