[TK335iMSPT]

2014 335i Xdrive N55 EWG
Stage 1 91oct BM3
VRSF Charge pipe/ 5inch HD FMIC
Mperformance Exhaust

I was recently having problems with the A/C not blowing cold when stopped. After bringing it to BMW, it was diagnosed to be a faulty cooling fan for the motor. Has anyone had to replace these before on the F30? I've seen a bunch of E90 threads but nothing for F30. The part number for the fan is BMW: 17428641964. Is there a suitable after market solution for this part? OEM seems to run about 800 USD new. Lastly, would you feel comfortable buying used? I have seen a few going for the 300 range on eBay. Thank you all!

[itsrichierich]

So I was somewhat in the same situation. I replaced the fan relay and haven't seen the error code for ban AUX fan.

[TK335iMSPT]

Originally Posted by itsrichierich

So I was somewhat in the same situation. I replaced the fan relay and haven't seen the error code for ban AUX fan.

It never threw a code for it, which I thought was odd. BMW checked all fuses, relays, and connections to ensure it was actually the fan. Such an odd and frustrating scenario. They said these fans typically do not fail, especially at 57k miles. Super limited information on the forums regarding replacements, so I can believe their statement.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by TK335iMSPT

It never threw a code for it, which I thought was odd. BMW checked all fuses, relays, and connections to ensure it was actually the fan. Such an odd and frustrating scenario. They said these fans typically do not fail, especially at 57k miles. Super limited information on the forums regarding replacements, so I can believe their statement.

I thought the fan failure was a common problem? When i bought my car i had the service department pull the full service history and it had 'electric fan permanent failure' at around 15k miles (before i owned it). SA told me that it was a huge problem early on and when i did some searching online i saw examples of people waiting weeks for fans because they were backordered at dealerships. My car is a 2015.

But back to your situation, the OEM price of ~$800 is what i recall seeing as well. I am not sure how much i would trust a used, but if its ~$300 i guess that means you would have to go through about 3 used ones in the time a new one would last to make it not cost effective lol?

[TK335iMSPT]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

I thought the fan failure was a common problem? When i bought my car i had the service department pull the full service history and it had 'electric fan permanent failure' at around 15k miles (before i owned it). SA told me that it was a huge problem early on and when i did some searching online i saw examples of people waiting weeks for fans because they were backordered at dealerships. My car is a 2015.

But back to your situation, the OEM price of ~$800 is what i recall seeing as well. I am not sure how much i would trust a used, but if its ~$300 i guess that means you would have to go through about 3 used ones in the time a new one would last to make it not cost effective lol?

Scratch the used suggestion. After further research, it appears that the Msport uses different fans than the other models. There does not seem to be any used versions of this. God I love this car but why is this piece of plastic 800 dollars! Correct part number for 2014 335i xdrive Msport is 17427640513

[itsrichierich]

A relay is $30, I say try that before getting a fan. Mine didn't throw an actual code, but on my BM3 app it was showing up as a shadow code.

I am going to replace my fan if the code comes back up. But 2 weeks so far and it's looking good.

[TK335iMSPT]

Originally Posted by itsrichierich

A relay is $30, I say try that before getting a fan. Mine didn't throw an actual code, but on my BM3 app it was showing up as a shadow code.

I am going to replace my fan if the code comes back up. But 2 weeks so far and it's looking good.

I guess it doesn't hurt to try. BMW said they checked the relays, connectors, ect and found the fault to be the fan. They spent 4 hours with the car diagnosing it.

[TK335iMSPT]

Originally Posted by itsrichierich

A relay is $30, I say try that before getting a fan. Mine didn't throw an actual code, but on my BM3 app it was showing up as a shadow code.

I am going to replace my fan if the code comes back up. But 2 weeks so far and it's looking good.

Do you happen to know the location of the fan relay? I cannot find any info on the forums about its location. Just fuses.

[TK335iMSPT]

Would anyone happen to know if this is the relay? The numbers on this relay don't match ECS but I do not see another like it.

[itsrichierich]

That is the relay. What is the last 7 of your VIN #? I'll get you the part # you need.

[TK335iMSPT]

Originally Posted by itsrichierich

That is the relay. What is the last 7 of your VIN #? I'll get you the part # you need.

NR91934

I believe this is the part number 61369198302

A confirmation never hurt though. Thank you for the help!

[itsrichierich]

Originally Posted by TK335iMSPT

NR91934

I believe this is the part number 61369198302

A confirmation never hurt though. Thank you for the help!

That is correct, same part # I got.

[Conr4d]

Originally Posted by TK335iMSPT

2014 335i Xdrive N55 EWG
Stage 1 91oct BM3
VRSF Charge pipe/ 5inch HD FMIC
Mperformance Exhaust

I was recently having problems with the A/C not blowing cold when stopped. After bringing it to BMW, it was diagnosed to be a faulty cooling fan for the motor. Has anyone had to replace these before on the F30? I've seen a bunch of E90 threads but nothing for F30. The part number for the fan is BMW: 17428641964. Is there a suitable after market solution for this part? OEM seems to run about 800 USD new. Lastly, would you feel comfortable buying used? I have seen a few going for the 300 range on eBay. Thank you all!

I had my electrical cooling fan fail at 33k miles on my 2016 M235i back in June. I noticed you’re tuned with Bootmod3. Are you running the Max Cooling Mode feature on the map config settings? I am wondering if having the electric fan run constantly with the Max Cooling Mode is prematurely wearing out these fans. It’s hard to pin point exactly why it failed. Could have been the hot climate where I live, could have been a faulty part from the factory, could have been Max Cooling Mode, or a combination of all three. I have turned that feature off since the electric fan was replaced.

Has anyone else had any electric fan failures while running Bootmod3 and the Max Cooling Mode feature? Whats the consensus on this setting? Is it safe to run all the time for daily driving or is it better suited occasional use (i.e. track)? Ultimately I’d like to be able to run Max Cooling Mode all the time and benefit from the cooler temps.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by Conr4d

I had my electrical cooling fan fail at 33k miles on my 2016 M235i back in June. I noticed you’re tuned with Bootmod3. Are you running the Max Cooling Mode feature on the map config settings? I am wondering if having the electric fan run constantly with the Max Cooling Mode is prematurely wearing out these fans. It’s hard to pin point exactly why it failed. Could have been the hot climate where I live, could have been a faulty part from the factory, could have been Max Cooling Mode, or a combination of all three. I have turned that feature off since the electric fan was replaced.

Has anyone else had any electric fan failures while running Bootmod3 and the Max Cooling Mode feature? Whats the consensus on this setting? Is it safe to run all the time for daily driving or is it better suited occasional use (i.e. track)? Ultimately I’d like to be able to run Max Cooling Mode all the time and benefit from the cooler temps.

I ran 'performance cooling' on MHD briefly. Performance cooling is the middle setting - there is stock, performance, and track. I forget exactly, but i think it lowered coolant target under normal driving from around 230 to 200 F or so. Oil temps were of course lower as well, maybe 210 or 220 instead of 240-245 under normal conditions (note "normal conditions" is key here since the DME will lower target temps even more in sport/sport+ or when you drive hard).

I noticed immediately that the cooling fan was running WAY more. Even during the winter when it was say, 65F outside, everytime i came to a stoplight i could feel and hear the fan kick onto high for at least 15 seconds if not longer. It was even more obvious when pulling into the garage even if i was driving gently leading up to that point. Note, I am also Msport so have the aux radiator so this might be even worse on a non Msport car. Turned the option off and i never heard or felt the same thing again. Now even during summer i never feel/hear the fan working that hard.

I don't think there's enough usage or long term data, and it would be difficult to definitely say the flash option affected the life of the cooling fan anyways, but from my experience running it for maybe 2 weeks there is absolutely no doubt the fan is running substantially more often and likely at higher speed. So i would not run it long term. If i were to autocross again, i might flash it for that temporary time.

Also, what 'benefit' are you saying you will get from the cooler temps during normal driving? The car was designed to run at OEM temperatures.

[TK335iMSPT]

Originally Posted by Conr4d

I had my electrical cooling fan fail at 33k miles on my 2016 M235i back in June. I noticed you’re tuned with Bootmod3. Are you running the Max Cooling Mode feature on the map config settings? I am wondering if having the electric fan run constantly with the Max Cooling Mode is prematurely wearing out these fans. It’s hard to pin point exactly why it failed. Could have been the hot climate where I live, could have been a faulty part from the factory, could have been Max Cooling Mode, or a combination of all three. I have turned that feature off since the electric fan was replaced.

Has anyone else had any electric fan failures while running Bootmod3 and the Max Cooling Mode feature? Whats the consensus on this setting? Is it safe to run all the time for daily driving or is it better suited occasional use (i.e. track)? Ultimately I’d like to be able to run Max Cooling Mode all the time and benefit from the cooler temps.

I'm currently running BM3 stage 1 91oct map. I have never run max cooling. I'm in New Jersey and it's been about 80-95 degrees here for the past month. I did notice the fan was used more with the stage 1 flash than the stock, but I can't say for certain that it was the cause of the failure.

[Conr4d]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

I ran 'performance cooling' on MHD briefly. Performance cooling is the middle setting - there is stock, performance, and track. I forget exactly, but i think it lowered coolant target under normal driving from around 230 to 200 F or so. Oil temps were of course lower as well, maybe 210 or 220 instead of 240-245 under normal conditions (note "normal conditions" is key here since the DME will lower target temps even more in sport/sport+ or when you drive hard).

I noticed immediately that the cooling fan was running WAY more. Even during the winter when it was say, 65F outside, everytime i came to a stoplight i could feel and hear the fan kick onto high for at least 15 seconds if not longer. It was even more obvious when pulling into the garage even if i was driving gently leading up to that point. Note, I am also Msport so have the aux radiator so this might be even worse on a non Msport car. Turned the option off and i never heard or felt the same thing again. Now even during summer i never feel/hear the fan working that hard.

I don't think there's enough usage or long term data, and it would be difficult to definitely say the flash option affected the life of the cooling fan anyways, but from my experience running it for maybe 2 weeks there is absolutely no doubt the fan is running substantially more often and likely at higher speed. So i would not run it long term. If i were to autocross again, i might flash it for that temporary time.

Also, what 'benefit' are you saying you will get from the cooler temps during normal driving? The car was designed to run at OEM temperatures.

Thanks for sharing your experience. I am in agreement with you. Probably best not to run Max Cooling Mode 24/7 and reserve for acute use until further data is released that supports its safe to run long term. proTUNING Freaks correct us if we’re wrong on this regarding Max Cooling Mode and the additional strain on the electric cooling fan.

I am based in Phoenix, AZ, where summer temps can exceed 110 degrees, so I’ll take any improvements in cooling I can get, but not comfortable doing so if it risks having to replace another electric cooling fan.

[itsrichierich]

TK335iMSPT looks like I need to replace the fan. It was 100+ here in SoCal and my lady has been using my car. She likes to have the AC on full blast. Yesterday she called me to help her bring in the groceries and as I walked out, I can hear the AUX fan blowing at full speed. Turned my BM3 app and I can see the fan error code back on (1A2108). Just ordered a new fan, should be getting it and installing it tomorrow.

[TK335iMSPT]

Originally Posted by itsrichierich

TK335iMSPT looks like I need to replace the fan. It was 100+ here in SoCal and my lady has been using my car. She likes to have the AC on full blast. Yesterday she called me to help her bring in the groceries and as I walked out, I can hear the AUX fan blowing at full speed. Turned my BM3 app and I can see the fan error code back on (1A2108). Just ordered a new fan, should be getting it and installing it tomorrow.

Where did you order it and how much did you pay if you don't mind me asking? Lowest I've seen is just under 700 USD from https://www.onlinebmwshop.com/oem-pa...ly-17427640513 with the code 2020 giving 20 percent off.

[itsrichierich]

We have an account with BMW (The company I work for produces and manufactures tools for BMW of North America). My cost on it is $737.30 (which is wholesale). I would jump on that deal for $700.

[TK335iMSPT]

*UPDATE*

Just wanted to update this thread for anyone who comes across it in the future. I have done tons of research and have not found a write up like this yet so hopefully this can help someone that was stuck in the same position I had been.

MY SYMPTOMS
My symptoms started with an inconsistent idle. At idle, the car would surge the rpm from 700 RPM to about 900 or 1000 RPM. This grew more and common over a 1 week period. Where it would happen maybe 3 times in 10 minutes, it began to do it 2 or 3 times in under 5 minutes. A few days later, the A/C stopped blowing cold at idle. It would only blow cold when driving 20mph or faster. This I were I started investigating it more. When opening the hood with the car and A/C on (at idle) I could hear the A/C compressor trying to kick in and shutting back off. It sounded like a strange buzzing while the RPM's surged. No CEL or error codes where thrown.

MY PROBLEM:
My problem was unfortunately the actual cooling fan itself and not the relay or fuses.

THE PART:
The part number used for the 2014 335i xdrive Msport model was BMW: 17427640513. Be careful because this part number changes going from Msport to non Msport as well as going from the different F30 models 320/328/330/335. The f30 Msport 335i/340i will always use an 850watt fan while the non msports and lower models use a 600watt fan. DO NOT provide your vin to these companies. They will send the wrong part. Even BMW was confused when trying to find the exact part number because their database lists the non Msport fan (600watt) as the correct part for the Msport (850watt). BMW quoted me $1600 USD +tax for this job. I was able to find the part for $681 USD including tax and shipping from https://www.onlinebmwshop.com/oem-pa...ly-17427640513 with a 20 percent discount using coupon code "2020". The average price of this fan appears to be anywhere from $750 USD to $900 USD.

THE JOB:
*WARNING*
I would not recommend doing this job in a cold climate. The plastic parts may not be able to flex and will most likely break. The hoses will also be stiffer and less flexible making harder to guide the fan in.
The overall job wasn't horrible. I followed this write up as best I could from the Bentley Manual https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/at...8;d=1491514000 . DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE ANY OF THIS IS STARTED and DO NOT shut the trunk when the battery is disconnected; you will not be able to open it easily. I started by removing the intake. For this, all I needed was a flat head screw driver. See this thread for how to remove the intake (https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=956841). After the intake is removed, I unplugged the fan from it's passenger side connection. Remove the screw (T25 torx) on the top passenger side of the fan and two more on the transmission cooler on the driver side near the bottom (also T25 Torx). I only removed one screw from the transmission cooler because the other was a PITA to reach with my chubby hands!!! After that, there is a little push tab on the drivers side of fan just under the radiator coolant connection that you push in and begin to pull the fan up. This takes a good bit of force, but do make sure you are careful and do not get the fan caught on any hoses. I found difficulty getting the fan to come up because that push tab on the driver side gets caught on the coolant connection that it attached to the radiator. I realized that the fan is a little flexible and just took A LOT of force pulling straight up for it to come out. Again, be careful that you are not snagged on any hoses when pulling up, as the fan is sharp and will cut them. Now that the old fan is out, it's time to put the new fan in. The process is simply reversed but with a little more care. Align the fan into place and you will begin to gently push down. It will get caught on the rubber intake pipe on the passenger side (this is a PITA to work with) but just do your best to guide it around the fan. The fan will go down a bit and then again get snagged (this time on the rubber trans cooler line on the passenger side next to intake pipe). Again, do your best to guide that hose around the fan and not to put too much pressure pushing down. After you guide the hose around the fan, the piece that locks into place on the drivers side will get caught on the coolant connection to the radiator. Just push straight down with a bit of force and the fan will flex enough to go under it. Be mindful of where the trans cooler is, it can prevent the fan from dropping down. After all of this, the fan should slide easily into place and you can begin reassembly. Screw the trans cooler onto the new fan (T25 torx), screw the fan into the radiator (T25 torx), plug the fan back in, re assemble the intake, re connect the battery. The job is done and you can now pat yourself on the back for saving 900 dollars. The job took me about 2 hours start to finish. It would have been less time if I had realized the fan just needed some brute force to get around that coolant connection on the drivers side.


SIDE NOTE:
The new fan is definitely redesigned from my old one. The old one has a production date of 02/2014 and the new one has a production date of 12/2019. The new fan was a bit lighter than the old one and actually felt a bit sturdier. The fan motor on the 2019 appears to be different and re designed from the 2014 one. Upon testing, I noticed the new fan is considerably quieter too.

[DannyM235]

I know this thread is a little old but I have been having some overheating issues with my M235i as well. I ended up checking the fault codes with BimmerLink and found these codes before I cleared them.

Fault Code 1A2004: Electric fan, control line: line interruption

After I cleared them and ran the error codes again I got the following:

Fault Code 801208: Fan output stage: Current limitation active

I did take a small clip of the fan during the time it started to overheat right before I got the engine overheated warning to shut off the engine which I turned off immediately once I got the warning. But can't seem to figure out how to upload it. I can upload photos but not videos.

I was also reading the coolant temp right before the engine was shutoff, it reached 129 C which is like 264 F. I first decided replaced the engine fan relay since it was only $45 at my local dealer. It however didn't resolve the issue. The fan never turned on after I replaced the fan relay.

So I checked the error codes again after replacing the relay with Bimmerlink again and this time the following fault codes came back:

1A2604: Electric fan safety relay, control line: line
interruption

1A2004: Electric fan, control line: line interruption

1A2002: Electric fan, control line: short circuit to ground


So after reading the codes again I ended up deciding to order a new cooling fan assembly from FCP for $855 with expedited shipping and tax, because the dealer quoted me $1065 for it. I'm just wondering why I had a code come on for the new relay. I made sure I connected one wire at a time to ensure I didn't place them in the wrong slot, I also had the negative battery terminal disconnected prior to replacing the relay, so I'm not sure what happened there. Apparently the M235i uses the 850 watt fan instead of the 600 watt fans used in non m sport vehicles, which is why the dealer stated it's price was so high. Anyone have any experience with this issue with their M235i, 335i or 435i, that have the N55.