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https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...nit/1VnXVC8jSu

On quick glance, this doesn't mention reverse thread.

[kdog_x]

Originally Posted by Enabled

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...nit/1VnXVC8jSu

On quick glance, this doesn't mention reverse thread.

Dang, that sucker is really on there. Not really enough room to get a cheater bar back there or anything. I hate to bail and bolt it all back together due to the last bolt!!

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It's torqued to 65Nm (48ft-lbs), so the little ratchet will need some help.

[kdog_x]

New pump is all bolted up. The little ratchet did need some help, had to remove all of the cowling around the windshield to make some room for the 3/8.

[kdog_x]

Now it looks like I have no start.

I bled the fuel system, but it just keeps cranking with no fire. Not really sure whats up with it. Its giving an error for pressure and temp sensor but the values pretty close so Id think it would start.

Can anyone confirm for me? There's two fuel lines going to the pump, one has a tee in it. Is the line with the Tee hooked up to the top port or the bottom port?

Put another way, I just need to confirm that the supply line goes to the bottom port.

Really dont want to pull this thing back off

[catskillclimber]

Originally Posted by kdog_x

Now it looks like I have no start.

Can anyone confirm for me? There's two fuel lines going to the pump, one has a tee in it. Is the line with the Tee hooked up to the top port or the bottom port?

The tee on ours is connected to the top port.

[kdog_x]

Ok thanks, got that right. Wonder if I got a defective pump or sonething

[Enabled]

How many bar is the system building up as you crank it?
You can see this in ISTA by choosing DDE on module map and opening it's own functuons with the button on bottom left. (Not the leftmost).

[kdog_x]

Pre supply pressure is reading 4.x bar, so about 60 psi

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The rail pressure needs to be somewhere around 150bar (I can pull exact number) or more for the injectors to "fire".

[kdog_x]

Originally Posted by Enabled

The rail pressure needs to be somewhere around 150bar (I can pull exact number) or more for the injectors to "fire".

I misunderstood, I was actually giving the pressure during the bleeding process. I am going to try reading the rail pressure and see what it says

[kdog_x]

It reads 11-12 bar when cranking. So does that sound like maybe my new pump is no good? i see it has the requested pressure while running listed at 299 bar.

[Enabled]

Yea, unless you left the metering unit or the rail valve unplugged, the pump isn't making any pressure.

[kdog_x]

Yeah, I tried swapping the metering unit from the old one in case it was bad, with no luck. The rail valve doesn't get removed as part of the replacement process, so I assume that is probably fine. I pulled the new pump back off, The seller of the pump asked me to check the piston, he said if there was any debris from the old pump it could clog up The solenoid valve or re-run valve. I'm not really sure what those are, so I asked for instructions but I'm still awaiting a reply. I just hope this pump didn't cause any damage to the injectors or fuel system from being cranked, my proactive replacement might have turned into an expensive issue

I reinstalled the old pump last night, but I have not tried to crank it yet

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I don't think you would have damaged anything. And if you didn't have any metal from old pump, since it didn't go bad yet, you didn't ruin anything.

I've changed some of these on VW CR TDI (same pump) and it's straight forward when pump works. Since it's keyed, it's impossible to get wrong.

[kdog_x]

Well, I tried swapping the valve from the old pump to the new with no luck. So I ended up re-installing the original pump, car started up fine. I disassembled the new pump and inspected the piston and roller, everything looks good. No debris or scratches. Not sure what is wrong with it.I'm working on getting the pump exchanged under warranty.

I caused myself a major headache though, the plastic sealing cap that goes through the timing cover over the pump mounting bolt is stripped from repeated installation and removal. I tried a bolt extractor socket on it and mangled it worse. Not sure how I'm going to get that out,I am thinking the only way I can get enough access to maybe clamp some locking pliers on it it would be to remove the intake manifold and hood. (or the transmission). Definitely a bad spot to have a problem

[Enabled]

Have you opened your original fuel pump? If you've been putting quality fuel, it probably won't look that bad. I'd be curious.

The new idea about bubbles killing it is interesting too.

[kdog_x]

I didn't open the original one up, though I'm curious. I was going to do so but then I got to that plug and stripped it and I spent about 2 hours trying to remove it . At that point I was frustrated and done messing with it. At least the pump thats on there works.

Its a huge threaded 35mm plug with a 17mm hex head in the center, all plastic. When the new pump comes in I think I may try to drive a few self tapping screws into it and clamp onto those to grab to remove it. Hope that works! Don't want to do anything destructive to it until I have a replacement in hand.

If I end up having to remove the intake manifold, I noticed the procedure mentions soaking it in cleaning solution and water, and then brushing it. Any Ideas what bmw Universal cleaning solution is? Or a good substitute?

[catskillclimber]

Originally Posted by kdog_x

Its a huge threaded 35mm plug with a 17mm hex head in the center, all plastic.

I've epoxied a nut in a stripped plug. Square up the edges (dremel) in the plastic plug enough for the epoxy to have something to work against. I screwed two hex nuts on some threaded rod and set one of the nuts in the epoxy. It wasn't a high torque situation.
Another option would be to heat up a nut setup like above that is slightly oversize (18mm?) and "melt" it in the plug.

[kdog_x]

Originally Posted by catskillclimber

I've epoxied a nut in a stripped plug. Square up the edges (dremel) in the plastic plug enough for the epoxy to have something to work against. I screwed two hex nuts on some threaded rod and set one of the nuts in the epoxy. It wasn't a high torque situation.
Another option would be to heat up a nut setup like above that is slightly oversize (18mm?) and "melt" it in the plug.

That's actually a really good idea! I could actually just get a nut similar in size to the rounded off one and just Epoxy it into place. If I let it cure fully that should give me something solid to grab onto with a wrench. Thanks! I think that's going to be my first attempt.

[kdog_x]

Decided to sacrifice a socket, filled it with JB Kwik and stuck it on there. If that doesn't work then I'll be putting my new pump up for sale when it arrives lol.

[kdog_x]

For enabled