03-24-2019, 08:28 PM | #1 |
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Custom Spot free rinse tank
Built my own spot free rinse tank. About the same price as the consumer grade maybe cheaper. While the CR spotless and simple shuck systems run about 400-500 bucks for only about 400-500 gallons of spot free water. I built one for a little over 400 but can give up to 4000 gallons of spot free water. Obviously a bigger tank but less frequency on changing out resin. Can provide a build list if interested.
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03-24-2019, 10:52 PM | #3 |
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Although that's different than deionizing water, polymer coatings are good at hiding swirls as they fill them and leave a coating that is slick. It leaves a nice glossy shine. Once you stop using the product you will reveal swirl marks on your paint. Using microfiber towels does not necessarily mean you're not creating micro abrasions as overtime dirt gets trapped in towels and acts like micro sand paper. Unless you use brand new towels every time then you'll definitely avoid scratches that way. So with using deionized water it removes solids in the water allowing to rinse the car and letting dry with out wiping. Meaning no touching or disturbing the paint as much as possible. Only time I touch the car is using a wash mitt. After all I do is spray it let it dry then add wax if needed. I'm an auto detail enthusiast and detail cars for fun. But I prefer using deionized water and other products to protect and make my paint shine like glass. I'm more in to trying to preserve the paint so it still shines 20 years later. But yeah to each their own this is what I use, optimum no rinse is a good product just works different and has its own disadvantages.
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03-25-2019, 12:23 PM | #4 | |
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I use ONR too, but I also use a pressure washer to blast off lots of dirt first. Due to that I still get water spots if not dried quickly enough after using ONR. ONR alone without pressure washing first is much less effective. |
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03-25-2019, 02:35 PM | #5 |
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I rinse first if there's major crap on the car that could scratch the finish if I went right to the ONR, but even then I never get spots, as I wash and dry a section at a time, and never in direct sun.
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03-25-2019, 02:40 PM | #6 |
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The point of a deionized water system is so you avoid having to dry or wipe your car after washing or rinsing. Of course if you wipe it down you won't have water spots as when water evaporates minierals and other stuff get left over once the water dries. The more you have to wipe the surface with a towel the more you introduce micro scratches. I can wash and rinse in direct sun light and let it dry with no worries. That's the difference and that's what pro detailers use. Stop using ONR for a few washes see the original condition of your paint when you don't use it. Chances of swirls on your original paint is highly likely.
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03-25-2019, 03:17 PM | #7 |
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Any chance you could post up details on how to build a setup like this? I've been looking into something like this, and have a small setup, but it uses expensive DI filters that are good for like...28 gallons or so?
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03-25-2019, 03:46 PM | #8 | |
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https://rvtransformers.com/store/PRO-100-p105868879 Different sized tank than the one offered at RV transformers. Rv Transformers has 8x48 I got a 10x35 because it was cheaper and shorter than the others. https://www.uswatersystems.com/10-x-...at-1035bl.html By-pass valve https://www.uswatersystems.com/clack...o-10-2011.html Elbows https://www.uswatersystems.com/clack...onnectors.html Alternative elbows so you don't have to fittings I'd personally go this route unless you set some sort of monitoring like I did https://rvtransformers.com/store/Byp...air-p109985946 Distributor tube https://www.uswatersystems.com/distr...eaccount=Sales Filter head https://www.uswatersystems.com/in-ou...eaccount=Sales Funnel https://www.uswatersystems.com/plast...eaccount=Sales Mixed bed resin this is the cheapest place to get 1 cubic feet of resin. Free shipping no tax. https://rvtransformers.com/store/DI-Resin-p105868917 This is pretty much all you need. You can add extras like TDS meter or short leader hoses fittings depending if you're trying to connect to hose or pressure washer. These are the top systems sold to consumers. Use this for comparison. Simple Chuck https://simplechuck.com/product/double-chuck-dark-blue/ CR Spotless https://crspotless.com/product/dic-2...olling-system/ Let me know if you have any questions |
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03-29-2019, 05:27 PM | #9 | |
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Purchased thanks! |
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03-29-2019, 09:54 PM | #10 |
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You're welcome. I use four or five towels to do a wash. I use one to wash a panel or two, another to dry them. I then toss aside the first washing towel and use the first wiping towel as the second washing towel, rotating in a fresh second wiping towel. Repeat the process until done. When done all the towels get tossed into a small bucket filled with water and laundry detergent. I let them soak in that until laundry day, then they all go into the regular wash.
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03-30-2019, 08:36 AM | #12 |
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Just don't let the woman of the house catch you putting them in the regular wash, if there is one. There's nothing wrong with it, cloth is cloth, dirt is dirt, but women can be funny that way.
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03-31-2019, 07:57 PM | #13 |
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Fortunately my wife didn't notice - she's busy with baby and hates laundry
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09-27-2019, 09:38 AM | #16 |
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I also run a DI system sort of like this, prefabed it myself but I have it hooked up to a prefilter RO system to be able to get even more out of my DI tank.
I'm getting ready to mount it on the wall under my pressure washer set up. The 4000 gallons is going to depend A LOT on the TDS of your water in your area. Some people will get the rated 3500-4000 gallons, others may get 2000 gallons. There is a formula to be able to know roughly how many washes/gallons you will get out of your system. But the system is awesome if you want to cut out drying your car. Running a detailing business I like to work smarter, not harder. So this essentially cut out the drying step of any wash we do. I don't even touch my drying towels. We do: - Rinse with pressure washer - Foam Bath - 2 bucket wash with 3 different mitts (1 for drivers half, 1 for passengers half, 1 for the entire bottom part of the car where most of the crap is) - Final rinse with the DI/RO system turned on - Done, we then either move on to another car or prep for the paint correction while the water effortlessly dries up without leaving behind any water spots. (This will change a bit if we are doing a ironx/tarx or claybar treatment, but you get the idea)
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