[Lameboy]

Hi, I drive an F32 428i 6MT and when I shift it really quick the car just holds revs high but doesn't really accelerate. When I have it in gear and floor it the car pulls strong though, and if I just shift a tiny bit slower it pulls just fine. It's only when I shift very quickly, I think the clutch slips. Maybe I'm already on the gas before I am completely off the clutch? I'm not sure. I'm wondering if there's any BMW technology or system that may be causing this because other than when I shift quick, it shows absolutely no signs of a slipping clutch. Thanks in advance to anyone who might have some ideas!

[rjd_F30]

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1563948

Similar thread going on now about clutch slippage.

[zinner]

I know what you mean, I think it's the DME preventing wear on the clutch. When mine was slipping the revs would shoot up.

[D041987]

It's the clutch delay valve that BMW builds into the Slave Cylinder. It induces slipping so a grandma can shift the car
and not have it be jerky. This delayed clutch valve also induces pre-mature wear on the clutch and will slip the clutch in quick shift scenarios to also prevent shock to the gearbox. This is why our clutch is only rated to last no more than 100k. Most replace it around the 75k mark or sooner with hard driving.

Only option on our slave cylinder is to drill the metal plate out with a 1/8th bit to enlarge the hole right at the hard line clip/nipple as our clutch delay valve is built into the slave cylinder and not a stand alone unit that was on the hard line connection as previous generations.

*The previous model BMW's had this valve as a external unit that could be removed or replaced with a bored out unit.*


Also OP if you are keeping the revs up all the time when this slip occures your clutch is more than likely toasted or very close to it and you will need to replace it very soon as you just glazed the fuck out of your flywheel and clutch pressure plate! You can thank BMW for this shit delay valve and $1500 for new parts! If you do clutch I would spend the additional time to drill out the metal restrictor and make it work like any other manual car and save your clutch! So drill it out if you want to do any fun spirited driving.

[Lameboy]

Originally Posted by D041987

It's the clutch delay valve that BMW builds into the Slave Cylinder. It induces slipping so a grandma can shift the car
and not have it be jerky. This delayed clutch valve also induces pre-mature wear on the clutch and will slip the clutch in quick shift scenarios to also prevent shock to the gearbox. This is why our clutch is only rated to last no more than 100k. Most replace it around the 75k mark or sooner with hard driving.

Only option on our slave cylinder is to drill the metal plate out with a 1/8th bit to enlarge the hole right at the hard line clip/nipple as our clutch delay valve is built into the slave cylinder and not a stand alone unit that was on the hard line connection as previous generations.

*The previous model BMW's had this valve as a external unit that could be removed or replaced with a bored out unit.*


Also OP if you are keeping the revs up all the time when this slip occures your clutch is more than likely toasted or very close to it and you will need to replace it very soon as you just glazed the fuck out of your flywheel and clutch pressure plate! You can thank BMW for this shit delay valve and $1500 for new parts! If you do clutch I would spend the additional time to drill out the metal restrictor and make it work like any other manual car and save your clutch! So drill it out if you want to do any fun spirited driving.

Gotcha, I don't think my clutch is on its way out, I've tried to test it in all types of ways and it seems to be fine. I've just been learning to shift a little slower and make sure my foot is 100% off the clutch before I gas it.

[Alexander502]

Originally Posted by D041987

It's the clutch delay valve that BMW builds into the Slave Cylinder. It induces slipping so a grandma can shift the car
and not have it be jerky. This delayed clutch valve also induces pre-mature wear on the clutch and will slip the clutch in quick shift scenarios to also prevent shock to the gearbox. This is why our clutch is only rated to last no more than 100k. Most replace it around the 75k mark or sooner with hard driving.

Only option on our slave cylinder is to drill the metal plate out with a 1/8th bit to enlarge the hole right at the hard line clip/nipple as our clutch delay valve is built into the slave cylinder and not a stand alone unit that was on the hard line connection as previous generations.

*The previous model BMW's had this valve as a external unit that could be removed or replaced with a bored out unit.*

Also OP if you are keeping the revs up all the time when this slip occures your clutch is more than likely toasted or very close to it and you will need to replace it very soon as you just glazed the fuck out of your flywheel and clutch pressure plate! You can thank BMW for this shit delay valve and $1500 for new parts! If you do clutch I would spend the additional time to drill out the metal restrictor and make it work like any other manual car and save your clutch! So drill it out if you want to do any fun spirited driving.

Well this is super frustrating. I had an 03' 330i ZHP back in the day and the clutch was super strong and never had any slippage issues no matter how much spirited driving I did. Bought my f30 maybe a month ago and have already started feeling the clutch slip.

Yesterday I launched off the line and towards the end of 2nd gear could absolutely feel a loss of power where it's usually most powerful next to 1st, which runs out quickly. Starting to think back two the last couple weeks where towards the end of 3rd gear I was seeing a loss of power and just attributed it to a long 3rd gear ratio. Very frustrating that a car with 48k miles has a clutch going out when i'm not riding the clutch and have been driving manual cars my entire life.

[Alexander502]

I'm very curious to hear some sure fire ways to know if my clutch is slipping or if it's all in my head. I've put the car in 4th and 5th at 40-50mph and have given it gas and the rpms do not jump. Is that test sufficient? I 'feel' like when i'm in 1st and 2nd the rpm's rise faster than I think is normal. At least that's what I 'think'. I don't want to do any tests that would further wear the clutch if it is in fact slipping already. Truly appreciate any advice you guys can provide.

[Billfitz]

Drive up a fairly steep hill, then upshift to 5th or 6th gear and accelerate. If the revs go up and your speed doesn't you probably have a slipping clutch. If the revs go way up and your speed doesn't you definitely have a slipping clutch. Don't worry about causing more wear, if it's slipping it needs changing no matter what.

[CristianR]

Hey guys. I own a f30 328i manual with 27.000 miles on it. I got it last year at 13000 miles after it was previously leased. I'll post a video with what's happening and I'll write a full description about everything. I'm having trouble uploading the video, I'll work on it and edit the post



I have an issue when I accelerate basically what is happening is that if let's say
I'm in a higher gear, let's say 3 and I want to accelerate starting from 2000 rpm or 2500 rpm ( so low rpm) is going up first time, and the car also accelerates but then it dips a little bit rpm and then it goes up again.

I'm posting a video with the issue.

Some information: First time I notice this "lag" I go to service and the advisory told me is normal for the engine to have a turbo lag and he can only see a one time clutch slip but he doesn't think is nothing because the car has only 27.000 miles.

After about a month while driving aggressive on curvy road I got for the first time a drive train malfunction error. The computer at the same service said again clutch slipping. The advisory again didn't think the clutch has actually a problem.

After another week while driving 60 mph on highway and changing lanes to prepare to exit I got the drive train malfunction again. It doesn't go away if i restart the car and again the service check, again clutch slip one time and I've been advise to keep it higher rpm. I do usually drive in between 2000-3000 rpm and I change gear at 3000- to 3500 rpm.

Now I got again drive train malfunction while driving 60 mph (2100 rpm cruising) on highway and almost same thing like before, I change lanes and I push just a little bit the gas pedal (very little, normal when you are cruising) and again drive train malfunction.

Today I just check my friends Bmw, which has the same model and same year and his car doesn't have the loss of rpm issue when I accelerate in 3th gear ( is going up continuously and normal, not like mine)

Now I believe is the clutch is indeed slipping but I'm asking you guys for an opinion since so many people told me so many stuff. Please advice me on what your guys opinion about the issue. Can I drive it like this and try not to go lower than 2500 rpm? Will driving with a clutch slipping sometimes affect anything else than the clutch itself or will put damage on other parts of the car, like the engine or drive train? Basically, if its only the clutch slipping once a week a lower rpm in higher gears, do I have to rush to fix it or I still can drive it around?

[Billfitz]

If the clutch is slipping RPMs go up, with no commensurate increase is speed, not down.

[CristianR]

( this is the video!)

Well it does go up at first. I notice it act like this in any any higher gear, from 3th to 6th, and even if I'm pushing acceleration all the way down from 3500 rpm it will still go first a little up, then will just drop and then will pull the car.
So if I'm in the 3th gear and I have let's say 3500 rpm, I push down the acceleration and the rpm will go to 3900 ( first thing after I push) and then very fast will drop at around 3600 and then will go up again. The car will act almost like the dsc is kicking in, it will have a pause in the acceleration while the rpm will go lower, then then the rpm will start increase again the car will act normal, all this happening very fast ( I dont think I have a loss of power, just a "misfire" in the beggining of the acceleration )

I want to mention that My gear box works very good, I never have a problem changing the gears or something, and the issue only happens when I accelerate aggressively.

The code that I'm getting are:
1: CDA904 No message (status of trailer, 0x2E4), DME receiver, AHM transmiter
2: 1D3101 Clutch, plausibility: Transmittable torque too low, clutch damaged
3: 1d3201 Clutch, plausibility: Transmittable torque too low, clutch heavily damaged.

Some people said is not the clutch because my car change gears no problem and it drives good without considering the accelerating issue.

Some people told me it's probably the air intake to the gasket

Other people told me that I need to shift down and I can't push it from low rpm and is normal for the car because the turbo kicks in ( I don't believe is normal because I keep on getting errors every time I drive aggressive and higher rpm. Plus my friends car which is the same doesn't act like mine when I accelerate.

I appreciate any kind of advice an opinion about it. Thanks guys

[zx1216]

Hey, sorry to bring this back to life but i'm assuming you have replaced your clutch by now? Just picked up a 12 328 with 87k on it and it is acting similar to this, not as bad though. The turbo aspect makes it worse because as soon as you go full throttle at lower rpm's the turbo spools and you get a big torque spike. Found this at the dealer and got a bunch of money off knowing it was coming soon.

[davigar]

Hi, how are you?

I have a stock 330i b48 manual BMW. I have 140.000 kms and got it with 83.000. Since I bought I notice that just after shifting quickly between 2 and 3 when you have the gas pedal at floor and revs just matched the 3rd gear, the DME prevents cluth slip and cut off the power during a second. If i do it slower there are no problem.
I think the cluth es too soft to to math the engine an gear speed quickly and when the DME detects that you have gone to the gas a little early, cuts off the power and with one second delay just when the revs have been matched, so it has no sense. The power cut last one second so you have 1-2 seconds with no power trasmission to he floor.
Do you understand me?

I think a stronger cluth, that allows match the engine revs and gear faster, will solve my problem.

Anyone has the same disgusting problem with the cluth of our BMWs? I also have an 04 M3 e46 manual and i love the cluth. Much faster and strong gearing and not to hard for daily use. The gearbox is very similar, the engine torque are also very similar... I wish i can put this cluth on my B48!!

Many thanks from Spain!.

PD: I am sorry for my english.