[Lefo]

So I am looking at manuals and reading up online.

I have a 2018 F32 B58.

The manual says they will take BMW LL-01 FE and BMW LL-14 FE+ but the LL-14 FE+ is suitable for particular gasoline engines.

How do I know if my engine supports LL-14 FE+?

See attached for manual.

Also, I want to fill in 0w-30? Which oil is recommended? I tried to look at Liqui Moly and they only seem to have the 0w20 LL-14 FE+ suggested.

How many liters do I need to buy?

Thanks.

[edycol]

You can actually use any LL01, LL04, LL01 FE etc. oils. Reason why manual is written the way it is , is EPA requirements to get particular mpg rating.
If vehicle out of warranty and you want to keep vehicle for long time, use LL01 or LL04. Preferably Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40, Motul X-Cess 5W40 GEN2. That is LL01 flavor. In LL04 you have in Wal Mart readily available Pennzoil Platinum Euro L 5W30.
If under warranty go LL01 FE until warranty expires. Just get LL01 FE in local dealership.

[Lefo]

Originally Posted by edycol

You can actually use any LL01, LL04, LL01 FE etc. oils. Reason why manual is written the way it is , is EPA requirements to get particular mpg rating.
If vehicle out of warranty and you want to keep vehicle for long time, use LL01 or LL04. Preferably Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40, Motul X-Cess 5W40 GEN2. That is LL01 flavor. In LL04 you have in Wal Mart readily available Pennzoil Platinum Euro L 5W30.
If under warranty go LL01 FE until warranty expires. Just get LL01 FE in local dealership.

Thanks for the reply.

After more research, with the cold weather coming, I think it would be wise to do 0W30 LL-01. Are there any good oil recommentation that meets that spec?

Thanks.

[Billfitz]

I'd run 0W-20 in Toronto if you plan on changing it again in the spring, which you should, to get rid of the junk that accumulates in the oil pan in freezing temperatures.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by Lefo

Thanks for the reply.

After more research, with the cold weather coming, I think it would be wise to do 0W30 LL-01. Are there any good oil recommentation that meets that spec?

Thanks.

So 0W30 only comes in LL01 FE flavor not LL01. BMW TPT 0W30 will do good.
BMW doesn't approve anymore 0W30/40 oils in LL01 and LL04 flavor (oil with HTHS above 3.5). Oil with such strong HTHS in those grades usually use more "true" synthetics and with that oxidize bit more which prevents super long OCI's BMW wants on certain markets.
That eliminated some of the best oils to be approved for use in these engines.

[sspade]

Originally Posted by edycol

So 0W30 only comes in LL01 FE flavor not LL01. BMW TPT 0W30 will do good.
BMW doesn't approve anymore 0W30/40 oils in LL01 and LL04 flavor (oil with HTHS above 3.5). Oil with such strong HTHS in those grades usually use more "true" synthetics and with that oxidize bit more which prevents super long OCI's BMW wants on certain markets.
That eliminated some of the best oils to be approved for use in these engines.

BMW has approved the following 40 weight oil with LL01 certification:

CASTROL EDGE EURO 5W-40 A3/B4

[edycol]

Originally Posted by sspade

BMW has approved the following 40 weight oil with LL01 certification:

CASTROL EDGE EURO 5W-40 A3/B4

Mediocre oil.
Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40, Motul X-Cesss 5W40 GEN2 are top of the line.
Valvoline European Vehicle 5W40 available in Wal Mart is also better option.

[BMWILUVU]

Another oil thread. All the LL-01 oils are about the same. Just warm up the car some in winter.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by BMWILUVU

Another oil thread. All the LL-01 oils are about the same. Just warm up the car some in winter.

Oh but they are far from same.
Approvals are minimum requirement.
For example, if you own N20/26 engine high Zinc oils could shorten timing chain guides life dramatically. High Zinc or low Zinc, both could be approved by BMW.
Shearing is usually indicator of lower quality base stocks in oil (Castrol Edge 5W40). When you start wondering why you have valve tick at 4k miles after oil change, don't look further than Castrol's MSDS.

[sspade]

Originally Posted by edycol

Mediocre oil.
Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40, Motul X-Cesss 5W40 GEN2 are top of the line.
Valvoline European Vehicle 5W40 available in Wal Mart is also better option.

You said BMW doesn't offer it… I corrected you. Now its about your opinion.

Back on topic… I wonder why the exact same oil but 0W40 is not approved? What could be the major difference(s)?

[edycol]

Originally Posted by sspade

You said BMW doesn't offer it… I corrected you. Now its about your opinion.

Back on topic… I wonder why the exact same oil but 0W40 is not approved? What could be the major difference(s)?

I specifically said 0W30/40 oils NOT 5W40 or 5W30 oils! Ok? And I specifically said "those grades" referring to 0W30/40.
5W40 oil is generally easier to make. You need less viscosity improvers or you can achieve certain goals by using cheaper base stocks. To get Porsche A40, MB229.5 approvals with 0W40 oil one has to use mire expensive base stocks lime PAO or Esters. Problem with esters for example is naturally higher oxidation and BMW is very strict in that in order to increase OCI. But using more Group III base stocks to limit oxidation would make oil unstable in 0W40 grade and shear prone.
BMW outright banned in 2018 oils in 0W30 and 0W40 grades with HTHS 3.5 and up. 0W30 is still allowed in LL01FE approval as HTHS is lower hence KV100 is also lower and it is possible to achieve that fairly easy and still keep oil oxidation acceptable to BMW.
In practice using Castrol Edge 0W40 (exceptional oil and completely different animal from 5W40 Castrol) inB58 could ok with just bit shorter OCI.
I use it in my N52 on track. Remarkable results based on used oil analysis. But it does oxidize a bit faster than 5W40. Possibly Not concern if changed in time 5-7.5k.
I say "could" or "possibly " as oil is not tested nor it will be tested by BMW. I highly doubt it will have adverse effects as B48/58 don't have engineering flaws like N20/26. But then again, I personally would not want ever to change timing chain guides on B engines since they are located in the back.
That is why sticking to LL01 or LL04 is imperative. But even among approved oils there are those that are ok, and those that are exceptional.

[BMWILUVU]

Here we go. This topic brings out the emotional people.

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by BMWILUVU

Here we go. This topic brings out the emotional people.

True but remember sometimes a reply is from someone who has intimate experience with the oil certification process.

[sspade]

Originally Posted by F32Fleet

True but remember sometimes a reply is from someone who has intimate experience with the oil certification process.

Interesting, I do hope certain experts in their field (as you describe) are among us.

[BMWILUVU]

Originally Posted by F32Fleet

True but remember sometimes a reply is from someone who has intimate experience with the oil certification process.

Some of us also have a long history with oil and know alittle of the certification process too and the agents added into oils and how most oils come from refineries in the country of which there are less than the number of fingers on my one hand. After all this information over the years, I still put the "best" most expensive specialty oil for my car because of its mixed use in track and aggressive roadwork and because I can afford it. This said, most people are just fine with OEM spec'ed LL-01 oils 30-40 weight (if these are spec'ed) changed every 5000 miles. The detergents will be found by Blackstone to be perfectly fine with some breathing space probably out to 6 or 7000 miles depending on use. What I will not put in is the 20 weight oils specified by BMW. This is just my experience with my oils and Blackstone analysis. For me, this included OEM BMW, Castrol, Pennzoil, Motul oils of the LL-01 variety and mixed weights. In fact the current oil I use is not LL-01 and is esther-based and analyzed by Blackstone. This after numerous years of analysis and trials. Just my 2 cents. Can't wait for the next oil thread I am sure it will be only 2 weeks or so away.

[Billfitz]

I'd use 20w in a DD for winter only in cold climates, like Toronto, especially if the car isn't garaged. I wouldn't use it year round.

Can't wait for the next oil thread I am sure it will be only 2 weeks or so away.

More like two days.

The only thing more irritating than the level of minutiae that these always end up descending to is the inability of people to do a search and find every question they could possibly have has already been answered ad infinitum ad nauseum.

[Th3Walrus]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

I'd use 20w in a DD for winter only in cold climates, like Toronto, especially if the car isn't garaged. I wouldn't use it year round

The first number matters more for cold climates, not the 2nd. You want a 0w instead of a 5w, especially if your car isn't garaged.

[edycol]

Let's be clear that used oil analysis is that, an analysis of oil, not engine.
Oil analysis can point to certain issues if trend is established (3-4 UOA in a row). Let's say increasing copper can point to rod bearing issue. But, it won't point to effect of oil on the engine. That is why approval process is created.
Also, UOA without TBN and TAN numbers is useless if one wants to know how oil performs.