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      06-07-2020, 08:28 PM   #23
EstorilMSport
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If it’s your first couple track days you’ll be fine but I’d echo previous replies on brakes and tires as that’s the biggest bang for your buck. I ran PS4S’s which were good but nothing compared to the RE71R’s I run now on my track wheels. I started with RBF600 but run Castrol SRF now which was definitely better. I’m also running PFC08 pads on the track (M-sport brakes) and they are so much better than the RedStuff pads I run on the street. I also have coilovers (KW Clubsport), SS lines, aFe sway bars, F80 LCAs, monoball thrust arms, Delrin rear subframe bushings, rear trailing arms and MP LSD. I’m also corner balanced with 2.5 degrees of camber up front. I’m FBO stage 2 and have no problems getting point bys by 911’s. I’m pretty far in now but get some seat time, focus on your line, brake points, the flags and flag stations and learn the limits of your driving and car. If you’re anything like me you’ll have more car than skill for a while but when set up correctly the F30 surprises a lot of people and you’ll have a blast with it. Good luck out there.
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      07-18-2020, 12:50 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EstorilMSport View Post
If it’s your first couple track days you’ll be fine but I’d echo previous replies on brakes and tires as that’s the biggest bang for your buck. I ran PS4S’s which were good but nothing compared to the RE71R’s I run now on my track wheels. I started with RBF600 but run Castrol SRF now which was definitely better. I’m also running PFC08 pads on the track (M-sport brakes) and they are so much better than the RedStuff pads I run on the street. I also have coilovers (KW Clubsport), SS lines, aFe sway bars, F80 LCAs, monoball thrust arms, Delrin rear subframe bushings, rear trailing arms and MP LSD. I’m also corner balanced with 2.5 degrees of camber up front. I’m FBO stage 2 and have no problems getting point bys by 911’s. I’m pretty far in now but get some seat time, focus on your line, brake points, the flags and flag stations and learn the limits of your driving and car. If you’re anything like me you’ll have more car than skill for a while but when set up correctly the F30 surprises a lot of people and you’ll have a blast with it. Good luck out there.
I just got PFC08's fitted with Motul 660. The drive home alone made it very apparent how much better the race pads are even when cold. Heading to the track tomorrow for a proper bedding and put them to task!
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      02-09-2021, 12:39 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmg View Post
If you don't want to get dedicated track tires, in the least, get better street tires like MPS4S. RE71R's are currently the hot tire for track use and occasional street use. They wear faster but perform just as well as NT01's but are still good in the wet. I'm currently on MPS4S but I am looking to get RE71R's on my M3 CS for track use.
In my experience the RE71Rs are faster than the MPS4S but only by 0.5 secs/lap at my driving skill level and the course I drive at, which is mostly fast swooping turns. The negative I found with the RE71s, like an R-comp, they have cycles. At about session 20 (over 7 days on 3 weekends + Fridays) they start to lose their grip. Not 100% but their grip is average as you count off the sessions. I've set my fastest lap with the RE71R and when they hit max grip, a couple of 20 min sessions after initial use, they are indeed very good. But, they don't last long. It really depends on how many track days you attend but for me, 3 weekends turned the fronts into slicks, still driveable only without rain.

The PS4S does last longer and it's rain grip is better as well. You can still be quite quick on PS4S tires. But a word of advice on the 4S. Watch your tire pressures. At the time my car was above factory camber but still low, at roughly 1.5, I chunked a relatively new tire, on the shoulder, right down to the chord. At some point during a track day, I have to set the PS4S to 30 psi cold. My rule of thumb is to keep it under 40 psi hot. That's not it's max but it leaves a good margin.

Also, depending on session time and track length, no need to go balls to the walls every lap. We get 25 min sessions over a 4 km course. Warm up, cool down, other farting around good divers will get in about 10 laps. Of that, I'd say only 6-7 are hot, with 2-4 cool laps. If the tires are over heating, ease off the accelerator, focus on your line and late/trail braking. Outside of drag racing, almost all other kinds of racing drivers need to manage resources. Take a tip from the pros.
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      09-10-2021, 12:10 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EstorilMSport View Post
If it’s your first couple track days you’ll be fine but I’d echo previous replies on brakes and tires as that’s the biggest bang for your buck. I ran PS4S’s which were good but nothing compared to the RE71R’s I run now on my track wheels. I started with RBF600 but run Castrol SRF now which was definitely better. I’m also running PFC08 pads on the track (M-sport brakes) and they are so much better than the RedStuff pads I run on the street. I also have coilovers (KW Clubsport), SS lines, aFe sway bars, F80 LCAs, monoball thrust arms, Delrin rear subframe bushings, rear trailing arms and MP LSD. I’m also corner balanced with 2.5 degrees of camber up front. I’m FBO stage 2 and have no problems getting point bys by 911’s. I’m pretty far in now but get some seat time, focus on your line, brake points, the flags and flag stations and learn the limits of your driving and car. If you’re anything like me you’ll have more car than skill for a while but when set up correctly the F30 surprises a lot of people and you’ll have a blast with it. Good luck out there.
Curious - did you do F8 LCAs instead of also doing monoball there bc of camber or cost or? I'd like to get to -2 deg up front for street and occasional track but don't love the idea of camber plates on a DD w/ a car seat
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      09-11-2021, 02:48 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B5QShip View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by EstorilMSport View Post
If it's your first couple track days you'll be fine but I'd echo previous replies on brakes and tires as that's the biggest bang for your buck. I ran PS4S's which were good but nothing compared to the RE71R's I run now on my track wheels. I started with RBF600 but run Castrol SRF now which was definitely better. I'm also running PFC08 pads on the track (M-sport brakes) and they are so much better than the RedStuff pads I run on the street. I also have coilovers (KW Clubsport), SS lines, aFe sway bars, F80 LCAs, monoball thrust arms, Delrin rear subframe bushings, rear trailing arms and MP LSD. I'm also corner balanced with 2.5 degrees of camber up front. I'm FBO stage 2 and have no problems getting point bys by 911's. I'm pretty far in now but get some seat time, focus on your line, brake points, the flags and flag stations and learn the limits of your driving and car. If you're anything like me you'll have more car than skill for a while but when set up correctly the F30 surprises a lot of people and you'll have a blast with it. Good luck out there.
Curious - did you do F8 LCAs instead of also doing monoball there bc of camber or cost or? I'd like to get to -2 deg up front for street and occasional track but don't love the idea of camber plates on a DD w/ a car seat
Quote:
Originally Posted by B5QShip View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by EstorilMSport View Post
If it's your first couple track days you'll be fine but I'd echo previous replies on brakes and tires as that's the biggest bang for your buck. I ran PS4S's which were good but nothing compared to the RE71R's I run now on my track wheels. I started with RBF600 but run Castrol SRF now which was definitely better. I'm also running PFC08 pads on the track (M-sport brakes) and they are so much better than the RedStuff pads I run on the street. I also have coilovers (KW Clubsport), SS lines, aFe sway bars, F80 LCAs, monoball thrust arms, Delrin rear subframe bushings, rear trailing arms and MP LSD. I'm also corner balanced with 2.5 degrees of camber up front. I'm FBO stage 2 and have no problems getting point bys by 911's. I'm pretty far in now but get some seat time, focus on your line, brake points, the flags and flag stations and learn the limits of your driving and car. If you're anything like me you'll have more car than skill for a while but when set up correctly the F30 surprises a lot of people and you'll have a blast with it. Good luck out there.
Curious - did you do F8 LCAs instead of also doing monoball there bc of camber or cost or? I'd like to get to -2 deg up front for street and occasional track but don't love the idea of camber plates on a DD w/ a car seat
I did both F80 LCA and monoball thrust arms
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      09-11-2021, 09:20 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EstorilMSport View Post
I did both F80 LCA and monoball thrust arms
Do you have any issues with rubbing? I see claims that the F8x LCA moves the wheel forward and can rub on the wheel liner, but nobody provides info on how far forward it moves the wheels.
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      09-11-2021, 09:51 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indyjoeshmo View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by EstorilMSport View Post
I did both F80 LCA and monoball thrust arms
Do you have any issues with rubbing? I see claims that the F8x LCA moves the wheel forward and can rub on the wheel liner, but nobody provides info on how far forward it moves the wheels.
It has rubbed some but not bad. I'd send a pic but the car is gone.
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      09-13-2021, 01:31 AM   #30
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Sorry if my first post wasn't clear - was just curious why you chose F80 LCAs vs an aftermarket option for the lowers like VAC or SPL. I'm leaning in the direction of the F80s but trying to gather more input from folks that seem to have a lot of experience w/ the car.
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      09-26-2021, 03:08 AM   #31
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if you have been sometime on the brake fluid, make sure that you change it before going to the track as it will reach boiling point during trackday
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