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      09-13-2021, 02:22 PM   #1
Tuptut
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328d F31 SCR Tank Replacement

Hi everyone, I just had my 77K 2015 x328d diagnosed with SRC tank replacement (DEF) by local stealership. Dealer quoted $2740 to replace the tank and couple other parts that believes needs replacing. I am unemployed at the moment so i couldn't afford such an affair. I paid for the diagnostics and ended up purchasing the tank from online bmw dealer for 40% less. Want to replace the tank myself but i can't find any info on where to start. Anyone has step by step info on how to remove it ? Greatly appreciated.
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      09-14-2021, 02:56 AM   #2
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Why does it need replacing, what's wrong with it?
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      09-14-2021, 02:21 PM   #3
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Pinged you for some options of repair manuals - check your PMs
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      09-14-2021, 07:05 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3-GT View Post
Why does it need replacing, what's wrong with it?
Long story short , got check engine light, codes were pointing to DEF issues. Tried all the things i found (cleaning the tank etc.) took it to stealership and their diagnose was to replace the tank. I think its the heating element, as the level sensor works (at least i am getting info on low def fluid ). Already got the new tank ...
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      09-14-2021, 10:21 PM   #5
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It's very unusual for the tank to have problems. Are they stuck making old 335d type diagnoses?
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      09-27-2021, 01:14 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuptut View Post
Hi everyone, I just had my 77K 2015 x328d diagnosed with SRC tank replacement (DEF) by local stealership. Dealer quoted $2740 to replace the tank and couple other parts that believes needs replacing. I am unemployed at the moment so i couldn't afford such an affair. I paid for the diagnostics and ended up purchasing the tank from online bmw dealer for 40% less. Want to replace the tank myself but i can't find any info on where to start. Anyone has step by step info on how to remove it ? Greatly appreciated.
Well, got my hands on ISTA+ and was able to narrow down to SCR metering module and SRC metering cable; they each cost $200+ (love it). I just replaced the SCR metering module and i am getting error still getting error. Will double check my connection today and test the metering line for resistance. If open i'll have to order that and replace ... BMW 16197260228 Metering Line. Will keep you posted.
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      09-27-2021, 01:43 PM   #7
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Can you post your codes?
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      10-04-2021, 12:57 PM   #8
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Metering line is common from what I can tell. I have a code currently for it on my car.
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      10-08-2021, 11:30 AM   #9
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Looks like its working now

... update to my troubleshooting...
... . As mentioned above , its also correct for my case. After replacing metering module , the next was metering line (one with heating element). Just replaced that yesterday and all is good so far. Deleted the codes and no check engine coming back so far. I returned the Active tank for full credit minus shipping etc. Wanted to thank you everyone here for help , especially Mikej0h who guided me with diagnostic software which was a game changer ! Thank Mikej0h.

Please note, i am one of these people that never leaves any reviews positive or negative, but in this case i decided to detail out my process as literally thanks to this forum i avoided paying $3000 to dealer for replacing almost the whole SCR system ; just because the DUMP mechanic at the stealership could not follow the simple ISTA+ troubleshooting procedure ...

Anyways in a sum this is my case, hope it helps someone. Parts cost $520, if i tested the cable for resistance first it would be just $280:

My car 2015 328d F31 (combi)
Got check engine light, code P208D:

1. replaced SCR metering module - didn't solve the problem
parts:
18-30-8-514-448 2014-2018 BMW Control Unit
18-30-8-578-628 2014-2018 BMW Meter Clamp ( you can re-use )
07-12-9-952-104 1995-2018 BMW Vent Pipe Clamp ( if you removing hoses, you need 2 of these)
a. to replace the module you have to remove the paneling (use T27 torx)
b. there will be a little DEF coming out, so be aware
c. make sure you have pinching clamps for the two coolant lines installed on the module.
d. pinch both coolant lines , pull these lines off (mine came off without removing the metal ring)
e. replace the unit , reconnect everything
f. run diagnostics and remove the code
g. if it was not the module , you will have check engine come back almost instantly after restarting the car.
h. in my case i still have check engine.
2. Replaced SCR metering module line - resolved the problem:
This step takes as long as it takes you to remove the panels , very easy 20min....
a. ordered the line Genuine BMW Part Number: 16197260228 from fcpeuro.com
b. remove the side main panel and one side of the torx screw panel T27
c. replace the cable
d. remove the fault code
e. restart the car and you are all good (that was my case)
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      10-08-2021, 11:36 AM   #10
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Some pics

please see attached
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      10-08-2021, 01:19 PM   #11
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Good job for pushing through and figuring out the fix!

Also, do you have the BMW manufacturer codes you were getting? Not the P code.
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Last edited by Enabled; 10-08-2021 at 01:38 PM..
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      10-08-2021, 01:36 PM   #12
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Agreed. Great information!

Thanks for outlining for everyone here!
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      10-12-2021, 07:20 AM   #13
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Glad to hear you were able to fix it, and great to have posted the steps in this thread so others can benefit from it as well!
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      10-23-2021, 05:10 PM   #14
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I just started removing all my scr stuff for my stage 3 time. If you need anything let me know.
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      10-17-2022, 06:37 PM   #15
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Tuptut Thanks a ton for the instructions and pictures. I had the same codes on my 2016 328dT, with a ridiculous quote from the dealer: $3k parts + 5hr labor + tax. They basically wanted to replace everything but the DEF tanks...

Replacing the SCR injector + heated line cleared all codes and took 1h30 once under the car. I'm not sure which of the 2 actually failed - I just replaced both for peace of mind. You can save some money by getting the Bosch OEM part for the injector: the Bosch part number is 0444025010.

My codes from ISTA+ were:
  • 80518A Metering line heating, activation: Line disconnection
  • 8051AD Delivery module, system pressure: Pressure build-up fault
  • 8051B0 Metering line heating, power too high
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      12-16-2022, 11:51 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikej0h View Post
Pinged you for some options of repair manuals - check your PMs
Can you send me the links for manuals ?
Will be much appreciated.

I'm afraid I'm in for an active tank change

29FB00 SCR system warning and shutdown scenario level 1

Car not disposing any adblue.
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      12-16-2022, 02:24 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CianoAmerico View Post
Can you send me the links for manuals ?
Will be much appreciated.

I'm afraid I'm in for an active tank change

29FB00 SCR system warning and shutdown scenario level 1

Car not disposing any adblue.
Surely this isn't the only code?
Post all the codes.

There's no indication that you need to change your tank at all.
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      12-16-2022, 03:13 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enabled View Post
Surely this isn't the only code?
Post all the codes.

There's no indication that you need to change your tank at all.
Is the only one the dealer gave me, I got the light right before I did the EGR recall.
The dealer cleared the light after the EGR job and said my active tank was low and this is why I had the light. I had no low level warning for DEF liquid in the car.
Said refill and will go away. It didn't.

This morning I had

P20E8 Reductant Pressure Too Low
P204F Reductant System Performance Bank 1
8051AD System Pressure Pressure build up error
805220 Time to closed loop error pressure build up too late.

The car is now at the dealer again to do diagnostic.
I'm afraid one the the supply pump or backflow pump in the active tank are toast.
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      12-16-2022, 05:22 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CianoAmerico View Post
Is the only one the dealer gave me, I got the light right before I did the EGR recall.
The dealer cleared the light after the EGR job and said my active tank was low and this is why I had the light. I had no low level warning for DEF liquid in the car.
Said refill and will go away. It didn't.

This morning I had

P20E8 Reductant Pressure Too Low
P204F Reductant System Performance Bank 1
8051AD System Pressure Pressure build up error
805220 Time to closed loop error pressure build up too late.

The car is now at the dealer again to do diagnostic.
I'm afraid one the the supply pump or backflow pump in the active tank are toast.
This wouldn't mean you need a tank... this is where this entire thread doesn't make sense. This is not an M57 335d. Tank swaps would be very unusual.

If they system isn't generating pressure, then you change the pump/delivery unit, part number 16197351665

This isn't a terribly hard job. The part can be had for $550 or less, new. For example: https://www.onlinebmwshop.com/oem-pa...mp-16197351665
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-2019 M2 Competition MT, Alpine White. Self-tuned 560hp
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Others:
-E36 328is. 2000 Z3 Roady. 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual. Estoril Z3M Coupe.
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      12-16-2022, 05:27 PM   #20
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Either way, as a start, I would read codes in the engine ecu (DDE) and the SCR module with a tool that reads BMW codes, not P-codes.
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Others:
-E36 328is. 2000 Z3 Roady. 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual. Estoril Z3M Coupe.
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      12-16-2022, 06:11 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enabled View Post
This wouldn't mean you need a tank... this is where this entire thread doesn't make sense. This is not an M57 335d. Tank swaps would be very unusual.

If they system isn't generating pressure, then you change the pump/delivery unit, part number 16197351665

This isn't a terribly hard job. The part can be had for $550 or less, new. For example: https://www.onlinebmwshop.com/oem-pa...mp-16197351665
Thanks Enabled
Is that the pump in the active tank tank flange module ?
I didn't think that could be replaced individually and everything inside comes with the tank.

I hope to get the codes from the dealer hopefully today.
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      12-16-2022, 07:05 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CianoAmerico View Post
Thanks Enabled
Is that the pump in the active tank tank flange module ?
I didn't think that could be replaced individually and everything inside comes with the tank.

I hope to get the codes from the dealer hopefully today.
Yes, that's the main pump that sends DEF to the sprayer. 3 screws and it's out. But before changing it, I would make sure the codes don't suggest a wiring fault or disconnection.

The other pump is the transfer pump (passive to active tank) and it's found outside right behind the bumper. It's not an issue here.
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