[FuNkDr.SpOt]

I just changed out my timing chain and it took me a LOT longer than I thought, so I wanted to share some tips for those who are going to use the FCPEuro video. Some background on my car before I start.

2013 328i n26. 107k mi. Oil changes every 5-6k after the 50k mark. No mods before 3-4 months ago, BM3 stage 1 with charge pipes and FMIC since then. Spirited driving but mostly highway at 75mph in eco mode. No significant slack in the chain. I didn't have much whine so nothing specific prompted me.

My chain wasn't loose but my guides were broken at the main connecting points. It's just a terrible design, and unfortunately BMW did not fix it. There is no new support, bulk or sturdier materials at those same points with the new guides. The only change is that the crank and oil sprockets have laser etchings to keep them from slipping. After testing, it fired up the first time, no codes. It runs like it's brand new.

Onto the suggestions:

1. Take out the flywheel TDC pin and balance shaft locking pin whenever you're applying serious torque to the engine. They can, and will, bend. The flywheel locking tool and balancing shaft locking tool should keep it in place, but...
2. Take note that the the flywheel locking bar can move a little if you install it in the middle. So either install it as close to the moving side as you can or use something to block that last flywheel tooth
3. You're going to need to support the engine from above, drop the subframe, remove the driver side motor mount arm AND jack up the engine on the passenger side motor mount to get the oil pan out.
4. Download Dinan's front swaybar install PDF. It goes over the easiest way to drop the subframe. Ziptie the steering shaft higher up in the engine bay so it doesn't spin the wheel.
5. To reinstall the subframe, I had to have a 2nd person slightly jacking up the subframe while i aligned it to the aluminum couplers that link the subframe to the front bumper and radiator/FMIC supports.
6. FCPEuro bolts in the cams, then the tensioner, then the crankshaft bolt. Instructions from BMW TIS say that you should start with the crankshaft bolt, hand tighten the cam sprockets, install the tensioner tool, then torque down the cam sprockets.
7. FCPEuro uses oil for the crankshaft seal but several commenters say PTFE seals need to be installed dry AND they need to be normalized for 4 hrs before starting the engine or they'll leak. The commenter in question even had 2 newtis.info links but they've since been taken down by BMW.
8. Extra stuff to get from FCPEuro:
   1. Crankshaft seal removal/install tool. Yes it's $150. It will save you hours of frustration. Removal and install is NOT as easy as FCPEuro makes it out to be. FCPeuro tells you to 'lightly hammer it in' but you can't evenly hammer it evenly all the coolant hoses in place. I was trying to 'gently, gingerly' remove my seal for hours before i ended up slightly nicking my block. THEN i tried to install it with a mallet like they did and it wouldn't go in after hours of 'gently, gingerly' hammering with a soft mallet and I ended up ripping the seal. Got the tool and it went in, in 5 min.
   2. 2 foam washers/seals for the subframe
   3. 1 extra oil pan bolt with the loctite. There's an argument over where those bolts are supposed to go. FCP says 2nd driver, 3rd passenger. Bimmerpost makes a good argument that it should be 3rd pass and 4th pass. I say do all 3 and be done with it.
      https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...ing+DIY&page=2
   4. Motor mounts. You'll be down there anyways so now a great time to do it.
9. Other tools/items you need.
   1. A mini ratchet for the vacuum pump at the back of the engine near the firewall. I got the Husky 1/4 mini ratchet set but I don't recommend it because the angle doesn't lock in place and it has a 1/4 bit sticking out the other end, increasing it's size.
   2. An engine support bar. I bought a Pittsburgh brand and had my engine supported for weeks. unless you have a lift, you're going to be doing a combo of dropping the subframe AND jacking the engine up.
   3. An E39 or E36 tow hook for the support bar
      Best option: 72158119188
      Also acceptable: 72157203519
      https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1739412
      https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1791799
   4. 2 extra jack stands for safety.
   5. A bottle jack. In the FCPEuro video, they use a pole jack but they also have a lift. I had to stack it on 5 2x6 to get the space I needed to get the oil pan out.
   6. A torque angle gauge. When a pro shop tells you to eyeball the angle (cams and crank bolt) I figure it's gotta be expensive. No. Shit's $12 at autozone

[Charles B]

Awesome!! Thanks for sharing. I plan on doing this to my Z4.

[fe7565]

Thank you for the tips and the thorough info! This is one of the most involved, but essential jobs for the early N20/N26 engines.

Were there any signs before you opened the engine that your guides were already broken? How were your intake valves?

[giraffewt]

Great writeup! Fcpeuro is definitely wrong on the position of those two oil pan bolts in their post. I had a small oil leak after following that. And their video skipped tons of details also.

Given that still appreciate FCPeuro as my main resource of reference. The other thing I did differently is I didn’t dropped subframe completely but only 1-2 inches. With engine jacked up high I had barely enough room to wiggle it out&in. It was quite tough though.

https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=29976444

[MSPz4]

Huge thanks for the recommendation on the crank seal tool! I’m stuck on that now, and I also slightly nicked the block trying to get it out. Drives me crazy that FCP Euro spent 30 seconds on the crank seal, and didn’t really show the method they used to “carefully” pry the old seal from the block.

Now I just wish my engine looked as clean as yours. I’ve got some varnish at ~126k miles.