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BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > 2012-2019 BMW 3 and 4-Series Forums > General F30 Sedan / F32 Coupe / F36 Gran Coupe Forum > F30:Alternator issues with JL Powerwedge Sub + Revenant Amp
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      01-18-2021, 12:57 PM   #1
jodyc256
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Question F30:Alternator issues with JL Powerwedge Sub + Revenant Amp

OK, looking for anyone that can give me any insight into the following issues:
I have a 2012 3 series with a 1000 watt Bavsound Revenant (plug-n-play) amplifier. I recently added a 400-watt JL Audio PowerWedge subwoofer. Approx a week after installing the subwoofer, my alternator (unsure if it is the 170 amp or the 210amp version) gave out and it's currently awaiting repairs. My question is: Should I need a cap or a second battery with this setup in my F30, or should my car, not have any issues pushing both amplifiers at max volume on a regular basis?. My alternator gave out during about a 3-hour listening session at max volume, I could see my lights dimming slitghly as the bass would hit and even noticed them flash on for a quick second at one point. I'm assuming this setup played a role in the failure of my alternator. I wired the JL subwoofer myself as the previous owner of my car had already run a ground cable and a positive cable that was under the back seat- it was like this upon purchase. So it was a fairly simple install, DEFf not a professional install, but simple. I would just throw my subwoofer back in the trunk once I get it back but do NOT want to take a chance on losing my new alternator. Could this have been mostly a coincidence? My car has approx 100,000 miles on it, am unsure if I messed up the wiring or if I will need to add a capacitor and or a second battery to compensate for power. Thanks for the input, JC

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      01-18-2021, 02:29 PM   #2
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All a cap and second battery do is to add more storage capacity. They don't add more generating capacity. You need to do both.
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      01-19-2021, 10:58 AM   #3
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You were listening for three hours at max volume with 1000 watts? Can you still hear?

It sounds like this setup would take a bit of power to run so your alt will def. be working more. If you can, I'd trickle charge your battery regularly, otherwise your alt will be working more than on a stock car.

Also, consider that the wiring left for you by PO might not be proper or properly done.

Good luck with alt install if you're doing it yourself!
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      01-19-2021, 01:32 PM   #4
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He's got 1400w of amplification. That's 107 amperes at full tilt. That doesn't leave a lot left over to run the car, the rest of the electronics, charge the battery, even when the lights are off. As for will he eventually go deaf, absolutely, but that's a matter for a different forum.
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      01-19-2021, 01:55 PM   #5
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Unless you have the 210A alternator, you can't provide enough juice for the amps and the car. You should't run start/stop and maybe code out daylight if present
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      01-19-2021, 02:11 PM   #6
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You are pulling more juice than you are creating. Stop by a good electronics specialist and get a free estimate of how they would fix it and then see if you can diy. Also if you were listening to the system when stationary, you def drained your battery quickly. @BillFitz is correct.
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      01-19-2021, 05:12 PM   #7
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I'm also wondering how the energy management handles the extra demands.

Is it switching down other consumers and ancillaries, to keep within limits?
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      01-19-2021, 05:46 PM   #8
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...and I hate to say this too, but whatever wires left behind, probably weren't intended for the power you're using...you should seriously make sure you've got a proper gauge for your power and run. Wires get hot. Cars have gasoline. I'm old, ocd, and probably worry too much...but still.
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