98K mile Suspension Upgrade Questions

JonTheGreek · 08-27-2021, 05:23 PM

I am in the market for suspension and currently near the 100K mile mark. I have a 13 335i with the M sport package, looking to keep EDC functionality. I mainly use the EDC for throttle control. I live in Florida so the roads (for the most part) are pretty smooth. Lots of speed bumps, and occasional crappy roads. Nothing is set in stone and I’m not narrow minded about parts and open to suggestions. My apologies in advance for the lengthy post.

Currently the car is stock but the previous owner had installed H&R springs on the stock shocks. I believe they are the sport springs, but not 100% sure (if need be, I can find out). I like the stance and I don't have any issues around town scraping so I would like to retain the height that it is now. It is my DD but I also occasionally do DEs and AutoX. Looking to keep the OEM alignment for around town and changing it for the track.

--Overall Suspension--

Are there any companies that I should avoid?

I do not have access to a press but there is a shop in close proximity that I could pay if the need shall arise.

Looking into powerflex bushing replacement, street variant, for front and rear stabilizer bars and mount inserts where applicable.

Looking into the Bilstein B16 Damp Tronic (possibly PSS10), KW V3 with or w/o EDC, and Ohlin road and track. A friend of mine had an E92 with KW V3s and it rode super smooth and he never needed to adjust it around town. It glided over railroad tracks and was super impressed with them. Should I stay with the EDC or just do the set and forget method around town and just tweak for the track? Do the Bilstein Damp Tronics have additional adjustability or only what is provided with the EDC? What are some thoughts of owners with any of theses suspensions on their cars? What is the rebuilidablility support with each manufacture, are some better than others?

--Front Suspension--
For the tophats, I am opting for the Dinan Camber plates, as I believe that they will make the least amount of noise (clunking going over bumps). I am aware that I have to remove the spring perch bearing from the OEM tophat. I have tried to search for just the bearing but I have come up empty handed. Does anyone know if I can even find the bearing for this individually or am I just left buying a new tophat and removing it from there? Are the bearings on the aftermarket tophats inferior to use, should I just get the BMW one?

For the thrust arm replacement, TRW or BMW? Is there much of a difference? Is the BMW thicker “more durable” or have a better ball joint?

Dinan, Millway, or Powerflex thrust arm bushing? Is one better than the other or is it just the name I am paying for?

I have read about the M3/4 F80/82 and considering the purchase as a kit to keep headlight functionality.

Thinking about staying with the OEM tierod. How low does the car need to be before I may need modified tierod ends to correct for binding and/or bump steering?
Looking into Hotchkis front & rear adjustable end links. They look to be of good quality and are sealed, which I prefer. Is this a wise choice, are there better options available?

--Rear Suspension--
Hotchkis stabilizer endlinks.

My real issue is I am not sure what to get or do for the rear. Should I keep it stock and only aim for rear camber adjustability? Do they make stiffer bushings for all the rear suspension components? I have only found OEM replacements or a solid open bearing type of alternative.

Should I replace all the bushings on the wheel carrier too?

--Conclusion--
I just want to mess with the suspension once and do it right. I am currently finishing up a masters program and plan on doing this piece wise as I get free time during the week. I have a secondary vehicle, my fiancé’s, in case I need to go to the shop for pressing and other miscellaneous tasks.

Thank you for taking the time to read this post as it is quite lengthy and ask a lot of questions.

cfm56d7b · 08-28-2021, 11:40 AM

JonTheGreek, welcome!

No post is too long when it comes to suspension discussions. :-)

In your suspension upgrade project, I sense two major decision points - keep EDC or not and what are the advantages and disadvantages.

1. Keep EDC
- The choices are limited
- Bilstein B16 PSS10 Damptronic are excellent coilovers, but can be rather stiff for some daily drivers
- Still only two suspension settings: Comfort - close to OEM Sport, and Sport - much stiffer

2. Remove EDC functionality (shocks only / throttle control will remain)
- Many more choices: KW V3, Ohlins R&T
- EDC Control module is available; will allow EDC ECU to function as expected without errors

I am glad you already have experience with KW V3 coilovers. If KW V3 lowering range is acceptable (it can be low for some), independently adjustable compression and rebound cycles provide many tuning options for daily driving and beyond.

Both KW V3 and Ohlins R&T are top choices among coliovers.

Your shopping list contain a lot of components. While one can save money on labor costs by changing several parts at once, there is value in doing these upgrades in phases.

Coilovers, camber plates, and control arms (due to 100K miles) would be a reasonable Phase 1. Your perspective is however the only one that matters.

JonTheGreek · 08-30-2021, 12:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cfm56d7b

JonTheGreek, welcome!

No post is too long when it comes to suspension discussions. :-)

In your suspension upgrade project, I sense two major decision points - keep EDC or not and what are the advantages and disadvantages.

1. Keep EDC
- The choices are limited
- Bilstein B16 PSS10 Damptronic are excellent coilovers, but can be rather stiff for some daily drivers
- Still only two suspension settings: Comfort - close to OEM Sport, and Sport - much stiffer

2. Remove EDC functionality (shocks only / throttle control will remain)
- Many more choices: KW V3, Ohlins R&T
- EDC Control module is available; will allow EDC ECU to function as expected without errors

I am glad you already have experience with KW V3 coilovers. If KW V3 lowering range is acceptable (it can be low for some), independently adjustable compression and rebound cycles provide many tuning options for daily driving and beyond.

Both KW V3 and Ohlins R&T are top choices among coliovers.

Your shopping list contain a lot of components. While one can save money on labor costs by changing several parts at once, there is value in doing these upgrades in phases.

Coilovers, camber plates, and control arms (due to 100K miles) would be a reasonable Phase 1. Your perspective is however the only one that matters.

After much thought, I think I am going to go the Ohlin route. Now I just need to figure out the rest of the stuff.

JonTheGreek · 10-01-2021, 11:27 AM

A little update on this. I purchased the F80 upper and lower control arms.

Should I purchase Bimmerworld's precision monoball upper control arm bearing or Powerflex's black series with eccentric shaft? Reasoning for the debate is how much am I going to need to adjust my caster to bring it back to stock, or at all?

08-27-2021, 05:23 PM	#1
JonTheGreek New Member 8 Rep 25 Posts Drives: 13 BMW 335i Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Palm Beach iTrader: (0)	98K mile Suspension Upgrade Questions I am in the market for suspension and currently near the 100K mile mark. I have a 13 335i with the M sport package, looking to keep EDC functionality. I mainly use the EDC for throttle control. I live in Florida so the roads (for the most part) are pretty smooth. Lots of speed bumps, and occasional crappy roads. Nothing is set in stone and I’m not narrow minded about parts and open to suggestions. My apologies in advance for the lengthy post. Currently the car is stock but the previous owner had installed H&R springs on the stock shocks. I believe they are the sport springs, but not 100% sure (if need be, I can find out). I like the stance and I don't have any issues around town scraping so I would like to retain the height that it is now. It is my DD but I also occasionally do DEs and AutoX. Looking to keep the OEM alignment for around town and changing it for the track. --Overall Suspension-- Are there any companies that I should avoid? I do not have access to a press but there is a shop in close proximity that I could pay if the need shall arise. Looking into powerflex bushing replacement, street variant, for front and rear stabilizer bars and mount inserts where applicable. Looking into the Bilstein B16 Damp Tronic (possibly PSS10), KW V3 with or w/o EDC, and Ohlin road and track. A friend of mine had an E92 with KW V3s and it rode super smooth and he never needed to adjust it around town. It glided over railroad tracks and was super impressed with them. Should I stay with the EDC or just do the set and forget method around town and just tweak for the track? Do the Bilstein Damp Tronics have additional adjustability or only what is provided with the EDC? What are some thoughts of owners with any of theses suspensions on their cars? What is the rebuilidablility support with each manufacture, are some better than others? --Front Suspension-- For the tophats, I am opting for the Dinan Camber plates, as I believe that they will make the least amount of noise (clunking going over bumps). I am aware that I have to remove the spring perch bearing from the OEM tophat. I have tried to search for just the bearing but I have come up empty handed. Does anyone know if I can even find the bearing for this individually or am I just left buying a new tophat and removing it from there? Are the bearings on the aftermarket tophats inferior to use, should I just get the BMW one? For the thrust arm replacement, TRW or BMW? Is there much of a difference? Is the BMW thicker “more durable” or have a better ball joint? Dinan, Millway, or Powerflex thrust arm bushing? Is one better than the other or is it just the name I am paying for? I have read about the M3/4 F80/82 and considering the purchase as a kit to keep headlight functionality. Thinking about staying with the OEM tierod. How low does the car need to be before I may need modified tierod ends to correct for binding and/or bump steering? Looking into Hotchkis front & rear adjustable end links. They look to be of good quality and are sealed, which I prefer. Is this a wise choice, are there better options available? --Rear Suspension-- Hotchkis stabilizer endlinks. My real issue is I am not sure what to get or do for the rear. Should I keep it stock and only aim for rear camber adjustability? Do they make stiffer bushings for all the rear suspension components? I have only found OEM replacements or a solid open bearing type of alternative. Should I replace all the bushings on the wheel carrier too? --Conclusion-- I just want to mess with the suspension once and do it right. I am currently finishing up a masters program and plan on doing this piece wise as I get free time during the week. I have a secondary vehicle, my fiancé’s, in case I need to go to the shop for pressing and other miscellaneous tasks. Thank you for taking the time to read this post as it is quite lengthy and ask a lot of questions.
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08-28-2021, 11:40 AM	#2
cfm56d7b Lieutenant General 5886 Rep 10,256 Posts Drives: 2017 440i Gran Coupe & 2015 X5 Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Orange County, CA iTrader: (2)	JonTheGreek, welcome! No post is too long when it comes to suspension discussions. :-) In your suspension upgrade project, I sense two major decision points - keep EDC or not and what are the advantages and disadvantages. 1. Keep EDC - The choices are limited - Bilstein B16 PSS10 Damptronic are excellent coilovers, but can be rather stiff for some daily drivers - Still only two suspension settings: Comfort - close to OEM Sport, and Sport - much stiffer 2. Remove EDC functionality (shocks only / throttle control will remain) - Many more choices: KW V3, Ohlins R&T - EDC Control module is available; will allow EDC ECU to function as expected without errors I am glad you already have experience with KW V3 coilovers. If KW V3 lowering range is acceptable (it can be low for some), independently adjustable compression and rebound cycles provide many tuning options for daily driving and beyond. Both KW V3 and Ohlins R&T are top choices among coliovers. Your shopping list contain a lot of components. While one can save money on labor costs by changing several parts at once, there is value in doing these upgrades in phases. Coilovers, camber plates, and control arms (due to 100K miles) would be a reasonable Phase 1. Your perspective is however the only one that matters.
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10-01-2021, 11:27 AM	#4
JonTheGreek New Member 8 Rep 25 Posts Drives: 13 BMW 335i Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Palm Beach iTrader: (0)	A little update on this. I purchased the F80 upper and lower control arms. Should I purchase Bimmerworld's precision monoball upper control arm bearing or Powerflex's black series with eccentric shaft? Reasoning for the debate is how much am I going to need to adjust my caster to bring it back to stock, or at all?
	Appreciate 0 Quote