[Insane435]

Originally Posted by badbread

FWIW, just called the dealership, their warranty administrator claims she's 95% sure it would be covered by CPO.

It has to be covered. If it were me, I would literally make them start up a different N55 or maybe B58 motor and watch the tensioner. That's only if they tried to say the jiggling or shkaing is normal.

Jiggle jiggle LOLL

[badbread]

Just ordered my new tensioner, does the belt need to be/should it be replaced as well?

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by badbread

Just ordered my new tensioner, does the belt need to be/should it be replaced as well?

I would replace the belt as well. You're going to be removing it and re-installing it and the price is a fraction of the cost for the tensioner... might as well.

[badbread]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

I would replace the belt as well. You're going to be removing it and re-installing it and the price is a fraction of the cost for the tensioner... might as well.

Thanks! Any thoughts/experience on OEM vs the much cheaper (less expensive) belts out there?

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by badbread

Thanks! Any thoughts/experience on OEM vs the much cheaper (less expensive) belts out there?

I would go with the Genuine BMW belt. There's a premium but you're not taking a risk with an OEM that may not be up to the same quality.

My opinion is that I'm at 91,000 miles without a failure. I'm going to DIY this once in the lifetime of the car. It's not worth my time and effort to need to redo this because some OEM (non Genuine) part failed. It's not worth the cost savings.

There are parts that I would buy OEM instead of Genuine only if the cost savings is substantial and the time/effort needed to remedy the problem is not that much.

[015iXMN55]

Update. Took it to the dealer for oil leak and mentioned my tensioner was jiggling. Mine is exactly like the op's video. Tech said that it's normal and no adjustment/replacement necessary

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by 015iXMN55

Update. Took it to the dealer for oil leak and mentioned my tensioner was jiggling. Mine is exactly like the op's video. Tech said that it's normal and no adjustment/replacement necessary

I would try another dealership?

[Insane435]

Originally Posted by 015iXMN55

Update. Took it to the dealer for oil leak and mentioned my tensioner was jiggling. Mine is exactly like the op's video. Tech said that it's normal and no adjustment/replacement necessary

Get a new belt.I paid like $30 for it.

The belt is made by continental and the tensioner is made by INA. Those are both the OEM BMW brands, just not branded as "Genuine". Both parts should be about $100 or less if you source on from the right place online.

The tensioner moved left to right at the top, like where the bolt is. The new parts are rock solid. Any movement would just allow the potential for the belt to be walked off which is risking catastrophic failure.

My dealership said any movement in the tensioner is NOT normal.

[badbread]

Thanks for all the input, appreciate the help!

I looked it up in ISTA and now it makes much more sense.

Is the "special tool" is suppose to hold the tensioner in there just when you remove it?
[IMG]http://*************/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/rollpin.png[/IMG]

[IMG]http://*************/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/instructions.png[/IMG]

Just looking at it from above the engine bay it looks like it's suppose to jiggle.

[xxxjecxxx2]

Originally Posted by Tchao

Careful with the drive belt!

N5x motors eat drive belts via crank pulley hub, and the belt gets pushed into the oil seal, and into the oil pan, and pieces get sucked up into the oil pick up. This is a VERY common problem. Esp people with leaky OFHG causing belt/tensioner failures.

Just replace it ASAP. Then go to the track and have fun w/o worry.

This has happened to me. This turns into a new belt and front seal. Also a new oil pan gasket and oil change because you need to remove the oil pan to get all the pieces of belt that get sucked into the engine. They clog the oil pickup line and starve the engine of oil. If your belt ever breaks or you hear it slinging in the engine bay, pull over and tow it home. The oil pan gasket job is not worth the risk

Front seal gone


Fished parts of the belt from the top



Oil pan removed. This is the oil pickup line clogged.

[Insane435]

^ That is exactly why you change your belt and tensioner. And also why you do the OFHG before doing so. Its literally $130 of parts total and maybe 5 hours of DIY labor.

Not saying his was caused by neglecting the jobs because anything is possible.

[BMWILUVU]

Originally Posted by Insane435

I replaced the belt and tensioner and can confirm the jiggle was NOT normal. The new parts are rock solid.

Insane435, do you have the part numbers?

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by Insane435

^ That is exactly why you change your belt and tensioner. And also why you do the OFHG before doing so. Its literally $130 of parts total and maybe 5 hours of DIY labor.

Not saying his was caused by neglecting the jobs because anything is possible.

I'm covered by a BMW Extended Platinum warranty until 100,000 miles so if this epic fail happens, I'll let BMW handle it. Immediately after crossing the 100,000 mile mark, I'll definitely DIY this. And maybe change out the idler pulley as well?

Originally Posted by BMWILUVU

Insane435, do you have the part numbers?

So there's two diagrams for this on RealOEM...

1. "Value line" - 11282457049

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_7066


2. Individual parts

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_4454


I can't tell what exactly the "Value line" includes... I tried to look it up in ETK but couldn't see what the parts to the kit were...

[M2Rush]

Originally Posted by BMWILUVU

Insane435, do you have the part numbers?

MECHANICAL BELT TENSIONER 11288604266
Deflection pulley 11288673720


These are my part#'s but you should probably google them and confirm or just check Realoem. If you're changing the tensioner, you may as well change the deflection pulley as there is a set of bearings that can wear out but it's completely up to you if you want to wait until you hear sounds or it fails.

[IK6SPEED]

And then you go into a panic.....

http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...php?p=23134809

[Insane435]

Originally Posted by IK6SPEED

And then you go into a panic.....

http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...php?p=23134809

LOL but I don't think its related. I re-tightened the tensioner. Did you see my log? Something else is going on...

[jv004]

Replaced mine with new belt and still have same "jiggle"

[Insane435]

Originally Posted by jv004

Replaced mine with new belt and still have same "jiggle"

Interesting, its move a tiny bit, but mine before replacement was alot worse.

Don't think of it as a waste because it could eventually need replacement.

[jv004]

Originally Posted by Insane435

Interesting, its move a tiny bit, but mine before replacement was alot worse.

Don't think of it as a waste because it could eventually need replacement.

Changing the belt was good, for ease of mind. But the tensioner didn't change from before, don't know if new one is bad or just the way they are. Oh well, it's not giving me problems so I'll just live with it

[louielouie]

Ran into this issue as well. Reached out to my local shop and he said what he saw from my video is normal. My idle seems to be running quite loud as well. Thoughts?

[eraxy]

Looks exactly the same in my car. Should be normal I think.

[rcsup1]

I just change my belt and tensioner and stationary pulley and still have the same jiggle. The noise did go away but how long before its back if the same symptoms persist.

After further inspection I can see it's the harmonic balancer that is warped and is causing the issue. This seems to be a pretty common issue on these engines. I'm surprised there isn't some type of recall. This is not normal, a warped harmonic balancer will ruin the pulleys, tensioner and belt again. It certainly cannot be good for the engine!

I searched every where and I am surprised no one has an aftermarket fix. The OE balancer is close to $500 and likely to warp again.