[6imer]

Hello,

just started getting burning smell - inside the cabin, and when I open the hood - it smells from the driver's side.

Some of the lines - see red circle on the pic, and under it, closer to the center - have some chemical/oil-ish deposits. Not much.

I read about valve gasket cover leaking - does this look like it could be it? Anything else?

'13 f30 335i m-sport, ~85k

Thanks!

P.S. I've had oil filter gasket replaced year ago, and it looks clean.

[scubajim]

need more pictures but I cer4tainly think the VCG would be a primary suspect. With the age and milage of the vehicle, I would consider doing the entire Valve cover with the gasket and attached PCV system.

[bzstxF30]

On the other side you’ll see a little drip tray beside the head just below the valve cover. Is it dirty/oily? That’s where mine leaked primarily and flows off that directly onto the turbo and down pipe burning up and causing the smell.

Drivers side is not as hot, but it’s possible the to be coming from that side too. The OFHG is right next to where you pictured and it leaks commonly too.

[6imer]

Originally Posted by scubajim

need more pictures but I cer4tainly think the VCG would be a primary suspect. With the age and milage of the vehicle, I would consider doing the entire Valve cover with the gasket and attached PCV system.

Thanks. Had a chance to look more into it, looks like culprit is on the other side. Does it look like an oil on a catalytic converter?

EDIT2: added attachment

Another thing which bothers me a bit is timing - immediately before this smell has started (or became noticeable) I hit a pothole on a HWY ramp, not terrible, but enough to require rim replacement.

[6imer]

Originally Posted by bzstxF30

On the other side you’ll see a little drip tray beside the head just below the valve cover. Is it dirty/oily? That’s where mine leaked primarily and flows off that directly onto the turbo and down pipe burning up and causing the smell.

Drivers side is not as hot, but it’s possible the to be coming from that side too. The OFHG is right next to where you pictured and it leaks commonly too.

Thanks. Tray is clean, but a bit further there seem to be an oil (see pic in other reply). OFHG was replaced last year.

[Oksamit78]

It is the valve cover - you can clearly see the oil residue on the exposed top face of the engine head. Just look on your picture slightly above and to the right of the red circle. That yellowish and dusted haze is not supposed to be there. Typical oil leakage of the valve gaskets cover happens near cylinders 5 and 6 on this side of N55 and at cylinder 6 at the back of the cover next to the fire wall.

I've just did this job on my wife's 2015 in early December. I recommend replacing the whole cover and not attempting to save money by replacing the gaskets (there are 4 in total) alone. Cover is made out of plastic and there is a high chance that it is warped. The new OEM cover comes with gaskets and all mounting screws pre-assembled - no need to purchase anything additional. It is not a cheap part, but worth getting OEM replacement not to go back and fix it shortly after if leak re-occurs. It is a 4 - 6 hour job if you take your time, can be done in the regular garage without lift as all work is done at the top. There plenty videos on YouTube as "how to". Just follow torqueing sequence at assembly.

Anytime the car hits a pot hole hard enough to cause the rim replacement - that is a significant jolt to the whole car. That could have disrupted the sealed surface of the aged and hardened gasket against the engine head. Modern BMW engine valve covers do not compress the gaskets like old school engines to close the gap completely. You should have the suspension checked out as well just in case.

Good luck.

[6imer]

Originally Posted by Oksamit78

It is the valve cover - you can clearly see the oil residue on the exposed top face of the engine head. Just look on your picture slightly above and to the right of the red circle. That yellowish and dusted haze is not supposed to be there. Typical oil leakage of the valve gaskets cover happens near cylinders 5 and 6 on this side of N55 and at cylinder 6 at the back of the cover next to the fire wall.

I've just did this job on my wife's 2015 in early December. I recommend replacing the whole cover and not attempting to save money by replacing the gaskets (there are 4 in total) alone. Cover is made out of plastic and there is a high chance that it is warped. The new OEM cover comes with gaskets and all mounting screws pre-assembled - no need to purchase anything additional. It is not a cheap part, but worth getting OEM replacement not to go back and fix it shortly after if leak re-occurs. It is a 4 - 6 hour job if you take your time, can be done in the regular garage without lift as all work is done at the top. There plenty videos on YouTube as "how to". Just follow torqueing sequence at assembly.

Anytime the car hits a pot hole hard enough to cause the rim replacement - that is a significant jolt to the whole car. That could have disrupted the sealed surface of the aged and hardened gasket against the engine head. Modern BMW engine valve covers do not compress the gaskets like old school engines to close the gap completely. You should have the suspension checked out as well just in case.

Good luck.

Thanks, very helpful!

I see there are several kits at FCP Euro, in particular https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-11127570292kt - which also includes Breather Hose and Actuator seal. Is it worth doing as well, so I don't return here later?

Also, I assume you were considering aftermarket kits - any contenders? (I understand you went with genuine BMW)

Finally, what else would make sense to replace at the same time in terms of labor optimization. E.g. I'm still on original spark plugs, was planning to eventually change them, but they work perfectly fine.

Thanks again!

[Oksamit78]

Originally Posted by 6imer

Thanks, very helpful!

I see there are several kits at FCP Euro, in particular https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-11127570292kt - which also includes Breather Hose and Actuator seal. Is it worth doing as well, so I don't return here later?

Also, I assume you were considering aftermarket kits - any contenders? (I understand you went with genuine BMW)

Finally, what else would make sense to replace at the same time in terms of labor optimization. E.g. I'm still on original spark plugs, was planning to eventually change them, but they work perfectly fine.

Thanks again!

That kit is exactly what is recommended to replace along with the valve cover. The breather hose and the actuator seal.

I did replace the spark plugs, but not the coils. Watch out for the debris - I used shop vac (with narrow tip) to collect all the sand and dirt before removing the spark plugs so nothing falls in or gets locked in the threads. You'll need spark plug socket like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Univ...1zcF9hdGY&th=1

I have magnetic version like that and it is great to snake the plugs in place without them falling into the tubes. Overall try to clean up the debris in the pockets around plugs and coils BEFORE removing the cover. Same on the side of the air intake manifold - don't want all the sand caught in there entering the engine head once the cover is off.

Once the valve cover off, don't forget to clean the flange of the engine head from burnt oil and other engine residue before installing the new cover. Also, take an opportunity and inspect the cam shafts' lobes for wear and overall condition of the valve train. I had a little bit of gummned up oil inside the spring for the Cylinder 4 intake valve - that area is not well washed by the oil when engine runs (valve cover has a blind corner right over it and I think that is what causes the oil to stagnate in that area).

I did consider aftermarket, but then it was not a solid guarantee that the cover won't leak. I abandoned the idea and got the cover from local dealer on sale.