[Dmitry83]

Originally Posted by Jadar

Downside is I have the M performance pads in the rear right now as it came in the kit and they do not have the same bite or "grip power" as we all know like the U.s. Spec m sport pads do.

Actually both M-Sport and M-Performance brakes use the same rear pads.
Get a new rear 34 21 6 876 422 pads- it is an exact match to the grippy 34 11 6 865 460 Sport Upgrade front pads with great initial bite, which are standard for 328i-335i M-Sport brakes.

[oceanview]

Originally Posted by Jadar

It took me a while to find all the info, since not many go this route so I am confirming It does work! After much controversy I found out that the M235i runs this setup from the factory. 340mm front (blue) 345mm rear (blue).

It works! DSC works ABS works, Launch Control works as it should. No issues at all.

If you want to do this, and are worried don't be. It all works as it should.

Happy Modding

340 front/ 345 rear is a normal setup even for F3x cars. Nothing special with that setup.
It is the S2NHA option (blue caliper) for most of the 4 cylinder based cars.
The 6-cyl. cars with this S2NHA option all come with 370/345 (also blue caliper).
So native coding of both setups are possible in the F3x. All save.

[Jadar]

Originally Posted by oceanview

340 front/ 345 rear is a normal setup even for F3x cars. Nothing special with that setup.
It is the S2NHA option (blue caliper) for most of the 4 cylinder based cars.
The 6-cyl. cars with this S2NHA option all come with 370/345 (also blue caliper).
So native coding of both setups are possible in the F3x. All save.

Yup I brushed up on that as well, all is ok if one chooses this route.

[KushPatel]

I know this thread hasn't been active for a while, but I need some HELP! I'm running this setup (340mm front/345mm rear) and I'm struggling with some brake peddle mushiness.

My car came with the M Sport brakes, so plain grey 4 piston brembos in the front and single pistons in the rear. I bought some used rear 2 piston brembos in the blue factory paint. Bought some new 345mm rotors for the rear and threw everything together. Coded the rear brakes under DSC from 20/330 to 24/345.

And after doing all this and bleeding the brakes(twice), I'm definitely not feeling the initial bite my stock M Sport brakes used to have. It feels like the brake pedal is softer and I have to press the brake pedal down further to use it. Is there anything I've done wrong or could've missed??

Thanks in advance!

[Jadar]

Originally Posted by KushPatel

I know this thread hasn't been active for a while, but I need some HELP! I'm running this setup (340mm front/345mm rear) and I'm struggling with some brake peddle mushiness.

My car came with the M Sport brakes, so plain grey 4 piston brembos in the front and single pistons in the rear. I bought some used rear 2 piston brembos in the blue factory paint. Bought some new 345mm rotors for the rear and threw everything together. Coded the rear brakes under DSC from 20/330 to 24/345.

And after doing all this and bleeding the brakes(twice), I'm definitely not feeling the initial bite my stock M Sport brakes used to have. It feels like the brake pedal is softer and I have to press the brake pedal down further to use it. Is there anything I've done wrong or could've missed??

Thanks in advance!

Interesting, I never had that issue at all. A couple people ran this setup and I don't think they had issues at all.

How did you bleed the calipers, with the motive style bleeder it had someone pump them?

Throughout my Experience with this it will depend on the type of pads being used. I recently went to turner style pads that are suppose to be better fro track but they feel so much softer then oem pads it's strange.

[KushPatel]

Originally Posted by Jadar

Interesting, I never had that issue at all. A couple people ran this setup and I don't think they had issues at all.

How did you bleed the calipers, with the motive style bleeder it had someone pump them?

Throughout my Experience with this it will depend on the type of pads being used. I recently went to turner style pads that are suppose to be better fro track but they feel so much softer then oem pads it's strange.

Thanks for the reply! I bled them with the Schwaben bleeder, which I believe is the same as the Motive.

And I thought I'd add a few more details incase something might be relevant: I did entirely take apart each caliper and rebuild them since I did get them powdercoated. I also changed the front rotors. Both front and rear to drilled and slotted.

And for the brake pads, I got all new brake pads for the front and rear. I opted for Power Stop Evolution Ceramic since they were cost efficient and had decent reviews. And I agree with you, since I have also heard that different brake pads can change the sensitivity, but I know that the mushiness I'm feeling is definitely not a normal feeling. It feels like something is wrong, it's just too soft and bit too low.

Also, when I was bleeding them, I noticed that the rears had a lot of air bubbles and specifically the rear driver side. At one point I ran an entire quart of brake fluid through the caliper and it still had constant air bubbles just rushing through the pipe. There were some pauses in the air bubbles, and one pause seemed longer than the others so I assumed it was good to go and stopped there. I hope it was. The car still stops and there's no fluid leaking anywhere so I guess that's not the problem, right?
The fronts on the otherhand, bled perfectly and very quickly.

I hope any of that information could help in finding the answer. Thanks

[Jadar]

Originally Posted by KushPatel

Thanks for the reply! I bled them with the Schwaben bleeder, which I believe is the same as the Motive.

And I thought I'd add a few more details incase something might be relevant: I did entirely take apart each caliper and rebuild them since I did get them powdercoated. I also changed the front rotors. Both front and rear to drilled and slotted.

And for the brake pads, I got all new brake pads for the front and rear. I opted for Power Stop Evolution Ceramic since they were cost efficient and had decent reviews. And I agree with you, since I have also heard that different brake pads can change the sensitivity, but I know that the mushiness I'm feeling is definitely not a normal feeling. It feels like something is wrong, it's just too soft and bit too low.

Also, when I was bleeding them, I noticed that the rears had a lot of air bubbles and specifically the rear driver side. At one point I ran an entire quart of brake fluid through the caliper and it still had constant air bubbles just rushing through the pipe. There were some pauses in the air bubbles, and one pause seemed longer than the others so I assumed it was good to go and stopped there. I hope it was. The car still stops and there's no fluid leaking anywhere so I guess that's not the problem, right?
The fronts on the otherhand, bled perfectly and very quickly.

I hope any of that information could help in finding the answer. Thanks

Your second paragraph tells all and is the key factor. You took the calipers off and the brake fluid from being open went back up into the booster. Per BMW repair guidelines if you let the brake lines sit open for a period of 12hrs or longer you must bleed the brakes and use ISTA+ to properly bleed the lines and booster. What it does is ISTA activates the booster internals and makes it vibrate inside and it purges the brake booster/master cylinder. This is specific to all F series vehicles.

You have air in there and you're feeling the effects. You left the system open. You needed to cap off the lines.

Fortunately all is not bad, you need to follow the steps above or take it to a dealer and have them do it.

[KushPatel]

Originally Posted by Jadar

Your second paragraph tells all and is the key factor. You took the calipers off and the brake fluid from being open went back up into the booster. Per BMW repair guidelines if you let the brake lines sit open for a period of 12hrs or longer you must bleed the brakes and use ISTA+ to properly bleed the lines and booster. What it does is ISTA activates the booster internals and makes it vibrate inside and it purges the brake booster/master cylinder. This is specific to all F series vehicles.

You have air in there and you're feeling the effects. You left the system open. You needed to cap off the lines.

Fortunately all is not bad, you need to follow the steps above or take it to a dealer and have them do it.

Ahhh damn... you're right. I'm stupid for that. I didn't even do my research before leaving the brake lines open. I left them open for at least 1 week...

Before I do my research on the ISTA+ stuff, would you even recommend I do it myself or just take it straight to the dealer?

Thanks btw. At least I have an answer now lol.

[KushPatel]

I went ahead and did research on ISTA and if you don't mind, Jadar, I would like you to verify the information I found and approve that it is the right stuff and will work for me in my situation.

So, for setting up ISTA, I found this: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=936877

I don't have ICOM, but I suppose an E-Net cable should be enough for the brake bleed?

And for the actual brake bleeding procedures, I found these 2 website. Do you think one is better than the other or if either will work:

#1: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1318401
#2: http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e60...ml#post5838729

Thanks again in advance!

[Jadar]

Originally Posted by KushPatel

Ahhh damn... you're right. I'm stupid for that. I didn't even do my research before leaving the brake lines open. I left them open for at least 1 week...

Before I do my research on the ISTA+ stuff, would you even recommend I do it myself or just take it straight to the dealer?

Thanks btw. At least I have an answer now lol.

Nah don't be hard on yourself man you live n learn. I do everything myself within reasonable ability and tooling limitation so I understand where you're coming from.

Although I've tried ISTA a bit I have never fully used it and have not needed to force myself to learn how to since I haven't had the need to yet lol, I can't elaborate on how the procedure works or how the reset goes with the booster, perhaps someone can chime in or make a post about it. If not then def go to the dealer and have them do it but they're crooks and may force you into a $200 brake fluid change as well.

[KushPatel]

I guess I'll just call the dealer to ask how much they can do it for, and if they charge too high of a price then I'll have to figure it out myself. I'll keep you updated.

Thanks

[1QuikWS6]

Local shop I use instead of dealer is doing my complete MPerf brake install incl. ss lines and fluid flush for $380. Not even gonna bother a diy at that price let them do it

[Jadar]

Originally Posted by 1QuikWS6

Local shop I use instead of dealer is doing my complete MPerf brake install incl. ss lines and fluid flush for $380. Not even gonna bother a diy at that price let them do it

Damn that's super cheap I'd go for it too. I remember seeing people pay upwards of $600 just for the install.

[KushPatel]

UPDATE! It took me a while to get ISTA+ finally working on my laptop, but once I did, I used it to activate this pump by the master cylinder and bled the brakes and now they're working perfectly once again! At first they felt nearly the same, but after a few days of use, they kept increasing and are now better than ever!

Thank you Jadar for saving my life!

[Axm438]

I know I’m probably bring this thread from the dead, but I am about to the same setup as you. Had one question though. I was able to find the torque spec for the two front caliper bolts to be 110 Nm but I can’t find the torque spec for the rear caliper bolts. All the info I see on the rear is for the 1 piston caliper not the 2 POT Brembo. What torque did you use?

[MACROSS79]

Hi guys about to upgrade to the blue mperformance rears too. Is there anyway we can code it using bimmercode and. Is it really necessary to do the coding? Thanks

[jdgay22]

so here is a question i havent seen ask

so if i have a 428i that came with the 330 font caliber and 300 rear rotor and stock brakes

and get the m sport blue brakes calipers with 340mm fronts rotors and 345mm rear rotors

i know i need the brake pads and heat shield for rear. but would the front heat shields work.will the 330mm heat shields work with 340mm rotors

and lastly I see lots of bolts in the m performance kits online.. does the bolts from a stock setup.. work with the msport brakes are do you need to purchase additional bolts aswell

[Jadar]

Originally Posted by jdgay22

so here is a question i havent seen ask

so if i have a 428i that came with the 330 font caliber and 300 rear rotor and stock brakes

and get the m sport blue brakes calipers with 340mm fronts rotors and 345mm rear rotors

i know i need the brake pads and heat shield for rear. but would the front heat shields work.will the 330mm heat shields work with 340mm rotors

and lastly I see lots of bolts in the m performance kits online.. does the bolts from a stock setup.. work with the msport brakes are do you need to purchase additional bolts aswell

The dust shields won't be the correct size. I can't confirm that they won't work with a little bit of bending and cutting but the front are so easy to change why bother. The rear are a nightmare if you go that route the axle has to come out it's pretty stupid. You can cut the shield and make it into a c looking and it can work and fit is do that over hub and axle removal any day.

Or you can just try to bend the original rear shield and fit a rotor and see how vast the difference is. You may be ok. And every bolt in the BBK kit is oem they just recommend you put new bolts on with new lock-tite.

[Jadar]

Originally Posted by MACROSS79

Hi guys about to upgrade to the blue mperformance rears too. Is there anyway we can code it using bimmercode and. Is it really necessary to do the coding? Thanks

Coding is necessary to get the correct pedal pressure via brake booster cylinder. I only noticed a slight difference and it eliminated some pedal mush. Biggest "feel" difference was pads, the better the pads and more aggressive bite the better brake feel it has.

You can only VO code this using a PC with and esys cable and or having the dealer do it with ISTA. Not positive you can VO code with BimmerCode.

[jdgay22]

Originally Posted by Jadar

The dust shields won't be the correct size. I can't confirm that they won't work with a little bit of bending and cutting but the front are so easy to change why bother. The rear are a nightmare if you go that route the axle has to come out it's pretty stupid. You can cut the shield and make it into a c looking and it can work and fit is do that over hub and axle removal any day.

Or you can just try to bend the original rear shield and fit a rotor and see how vast the difference is. You may be ok. And every bolt in the BBK kit is oem they just recommend you put new bolts on with new lock-tite.

what do you mean by c looking. because my rear heat shield definately has to come out since i have a 300mm rear

[Jadar]

Originally Posted by jdgay22

what do you mean by c looking. because my rear heat shield definately has to come out since i have a 300mm rear

The shield is round and has a center cut out. You can cut away that small section and the remainder literally looks like a letter "c" and you can sort of slip it on that way through the opening you cut. This way you don't have to remove the axle which is so not worth doing believe me.

[jdgay22]

Originally Posted by Jadar

The shield is round and has a center cut out. You can cut away that small section and the remainder literally looks like a letter "c" and you can sort of slip it on that way through the opening you cut. This way you don't have to remove the axle which is so not worth doing believe me.

if a shop is doing it. they wont have a problem removing the rear axle right??. shouldnt it be simple for them right.. i just dont want to go there without all the right parts. and I dont see any diy guide on the exact parts needed.. did alot of research and I get conflicting answers