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      07-13-2020, 10:51 AM   #155
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kern417 - thank you for your input. No measurements from before. Stock was a funky -.08 and -1.01 with stock hats.

I'm waiting on the new strut bearing and rubber boot to do a reinstall (hoping to fix that low rattle/knock) and then do an alignment.
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      07-13-2020, 12:36 PM   #156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exE36M3 View Post
kern417 - thank you for your input. No measurements from before. Stock was a funky -.08 and -1.01 with stock hats.

I'm waiting on the new strut bearing and rubber boot to do a reinstall (hoping to fix that low rattle/knock) and then do an alignment.
Yeah I found I was actually ~-2.5 after that level of adjustment. You can always get ballpark measurements using an angle, tape measure, and some math
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      08-22-2020, 02:27 AM   #157
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Checking back in. I pulled the Millway camber plates to chase down a low-speed rattle around town... I have been running the stock mounts the last month. Yes, all is quiet now but my tires are rubbing the fender wells again. Whee!

I recently did the steering rack repair and got rid of the dreaded F30 clunk! (Pretty stoked about that still. The steering feels like new.) But it got me thinking, the steering rack uses a tan, plastic block... easily 4oz of weight. The clunking noise issue with a lot of stock F30s is that block rattling around inside of the steering rack.

Some Millway owner's say there's some noise (NVH, rattle, etc.) around town... and other's who claim it's as quiet as OEM. How many of you have swapped out that steering rack piece? How many have not? And is there a noise or rattle present with the camber plate install?

Oddly when I ran the Millway Race and Poly versions, they both made a similar rattle at low speed, which makes me wonder if my rattle was actually that steering column block. I still have the Millway plates and will probably reinstall to test the idea/theory. And yes, clearly the stock rubber mount hide a multitude of noises!
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      08-24-2020, 06:41 AM   #158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exE36M3 View Post
Checking back in. I pulled the Millway camber plates to chase down a low-speed rattle around town... I have been running the stock mounts the last month. Yes, all is quiet now but my tires are rubbing the fender wells again. Whee!

I recently did the steering rack repair and got rid of the dreaded F30 clunk! (Pretty stoked about that still. The steering feels like new.) But it got me thinking, the steering rack uses a tan, plastic block... easily 4oz of weight. The clunking noise issue with a lot of stock F30s is that block rattling around inside of the steering rack.

Some Millway owner's say there's some noise (NVH, rattle, etc.) around town... and other's who claim it's as quiet as OEM. How many of you have swapped out that steering rack piece? How many have not? And is there a noise or rattle present with the camber plate install?

Oddly when I ran the Millway Race and Poly versions, they both made a similar rattle at low speed, which makes me wonder if my rattle was actually that steering column block. I still have the Millway plates and will probably reinstall to test the idea/theory. And yes, clearly the stock rubber mount hide a multitude of noises!
I'm not sure what noise you're referring to, but my car hasn't had any steering issues in my 2018. I'm just coming up on 16k miles though so not as high of mileage as some.
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      08-24-2020, 11:42 AM   #159
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I'm not sure what noise you're referring to, but my car hasn't had any steering issues in my 2018. I'm just coming up on 16k miles though so not as high of mileage as some.
Thanks kern417 ! 16k is pretty low. I had 65k on my steering rack so a few more miles. The steering clunk/rattles are there even without the camber plates - lot of the threads around that alone.

I should be under my car this week and will report back my findings. I'm waiting on those stupid fires out here in NorCal to calm down so I can open my garage and get the work done.
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      08-24-2020, 10:48 PM   #160
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I had about 68k miles or so when I sold mine. I had some clunking from the rack but my bearings also needed replacing in my top mount. There was a significant amount of play in them.
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      09-19-2020, 12:56 AM   #161
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OK just checking in. I was hunting down a rattle and theorized that the clunking was from the known steering rack clunk and knock.... and thus transmitting noise through the camber plate. Well I replaced the steering rack block... still getting low speed knocks/rattling from the camber plate.

But overall, I'm still pretty happy with these camber plates. The rattle is of a frequency that you have to have the radio off, no air/fan, and windows up and doing less than 25mph around town with bad roads to even hear it. If you freeway it 90% of the time, have great roads, and use the radio/HVAC... you won't notice the rattle as much.
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      09-19-2020, 02:06 AM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exE36M3 View Post
OK just checking in. I was hunting down a rattle and theorized that the clunking was from the known steering rack clunk and knock.... and thus transmitting noise through the camber plate. Well I replaced the steering rack block... still getting low speed knocks/rattling from the camber plate.

But overall, I'm still pretty happy with these camber plates. The rattle is of a frequency that you have to have the radio off, no air/fan, and windows up and doing less than 25mph around town with bad roads to even hear it. If you freeway it 90% of the time, have great roads, and use the radio/HVAC... you won't notice the rattle as much.
Has the top strut nut been properly tightened? Most shops simply use an airgun but don't use at all the counterhold at the top which is the only way to properly torque that bolt.
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      09-19-2020, 09:34 AM   #163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exE36M3 View Post
OK just checking in. I was hunting down a rattle and theorized that the clunking was from the known steering rack clunk and knock.... and thus transmitting noise through the camber plate. Well I replaced the steering rack block... still getting low speed knocks/rattling from the camber plate.

But overall, I'm still pretty happy with these camber plates. The rattle is of a frequency that you have to have the radio off, no air/fan, and windows up and doing less than 25mph around town with bad roads to even hear it. If you freeway it 90% of the time, have great roads, and use the radio/HVAC... you won't notice the rattle as much.
Check the four bolts holding the rack in place. I got a little out of all of them and it quieted mine down.

Just got my rack fix kit because mines gone too.

Also my front control arms are leaking bad. So maybe check those too, I can see where the outer edge of my drivers side one has come into contact with the subframe.
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      09-19-2020, 03:12 PM   #164
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Strut nut...
I torqued it down with the proper tools
I only wish this was the rattle.

Control arm has been replaced less than 10K miles ago.

Steering rack bolts might be an idea. I'll check that next time I am under the car.
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      09-19-2020, 06:07 PM   #165
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I finally am going to be able to install the steering thrust repair kit to my car tomorrow. I'll take a look at the bolts mentioned above while I am under there. Thanks for the tip.

Edit: Repair kit DOES NOT fit earlier racks with the 17mm bolt, the top nut in the repair kit is a few mm more in diameter.
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      09-20-2020, 12:22 AM   #166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exE36M3 View Post
Strut nut...
I torqued it down with the proper tools
I only wish this was the rattle.

Control arm has been replaced less than 10K miles ago.

Steering rack bolts might be an idea. I'll check that next time I am under the car.
Also check antiroll bar attachment points ? Endlinks?
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      09-21-2020, 02:31 PM   #167
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Yep, sway end links and mounts are all tight. So I was doing some reading... how about this one!

"Ball joint for the front tension strut, bolted directly to the wheel carrier/steering knuckle

A loose or worn ball joint can cause a lot of strange problems including knocking noises, tire wear, and poor handling. A ball joint can wear out in numerous ways. The most common type of ball joint wear is when the ball joint itself wears in its housing and a gap develops. This causes play and can create looseness in the front suspension."

I'm at 66k miles. They say these guys last 70k to 100k. But I don't recall ANYONE replacing a ball joint. This could explain the disparity of people with properly torqued suspension components - with some with no camber rattle and some with the rattle. At $150 for a new pair, tempting to give it a try.

Last edited by exE36M3; 09-21-2020 at 03:58 PM..
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      09-21-2020, 02:37 PM   #168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exE36M3 View Post
Yep, sway end links and mounts are all tight. So I was doing some reading... how about this one!

"Ball joint for the front tension strut, bolted directly to the wheel carrier/steering knuckle

A loose or worn ball joint can cause a lot of strange problems including knocking noises, tire wear, and poor handling. A ball joint can wear out in numerous ways. The most common type of ball joint wear is when the ball joint itself wears in its housing and a gap develops. This causes play and can create looseness in the front suspension."

I'm at 66k miles. They say these guys last 70k to 100k. But I don't recall ANYONE replacing a ball joint. This could explain the disparity of people with properly torqued suspension components - with some with no camber rattle and some with the rattle. At $150 for a new pair, tempting to give it a try.
You can test this by unbolting the LCA/wishbone from the subframe, but leaving it attached to the knuckle and then trying to wiggle the arm around and see if you can get the ball joint at the knuckle end to make noise. Make sure you secure the steering wheel before you try this though or your steering can get thrown off and requiring an alignment after. This can also be done with the tension strut/thrust arm (but I know yours are newer).
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      10-12-2020, 01:30 PM   #169
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kern417 - so I found a guy with Millways on his 435i with 86k miles. He claims zero chatter. Same set-up as my suspension with one exception, he's still on stock control arms while I am on the monoballs. Are you still on all stock suspension save the Millway camber plates?

UPDATE:
Local race shop retorqued all suspension components. Nothing loose or worn.
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      10-12-2020, 01:46 PM   #170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exE36M3 View Post
kern417 - so I found a guy with Millways on his 435i with 86k miles. He claims zero chatter. Same set-up as my suspension with one exception, he's still on stock control arms while I am on the monoballs. Are you still on all stock suspension save the Millway camber plates?

UPDATE:
Local race shop retorqued all suspension components. Nothing loose or worn.
I'm pretty sure kern417 has SPL control arms (that have monoballs).
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      10-12-2020, 02:09 PM   #171
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Thanks FaRKle! Clearly I am TRYING to keep these plates!
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      10-12-2020, 02:42 PM   #172
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haha yeah, i have the spl arms now and still no rattles. but it wouldn't hurt to swap and see if it goes away.
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      10-12-2020, 06:54 PM   #173
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Thanks kern417! The camber plate rattle thing is such a weird monster. Trying to find a common thread has been a challenge.
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      10-14-2020, 01:33 AM   #174
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Hey guys, anyone in here uses the Millway camber plate with Ohilns R&T coilovers? I found out the the strut nut for Ohlins is 21mm which is bigger than the OEM and other coilovers at 18 mm. I couldn't find the strut nut socket that is thin enough to tight the nut down. Anyone faces the same issue? Thanks!
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      10-14-2020, 03:54 AM   #175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy Odie View Post
Hey guys, anyone in here uses the Millway camber plate with Ohilns R&T coilovers? I found out the the strut nut for Ohlins is 21mm which is bigger than the OEM and other coilovers at 18 mm. I couldn't find the strut nut socket that is thin enough to tight the nut down. Anyone faces the same issue? Thanks!
I would ask millway themselves, but considering they also resell ohlins and work in proximity being both Swedish manufacturers that should be the case.
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