[bendeyo]

Hi Gang,
I'm a long time lurker on this forum for DIY projects and just joined because I'm getting frustrated trying to diagnose the following issues. I'm hoping with your expertise I can finally lock down some of the issues I've been having.

Car: 2013 335xi F30 N55 Manual Transmission 106k Miles
Mods: VRSF Chargepipe, VRSF Catless Downpipe, JB4 Map 5 on 91 octane, Drop in K&N

I've attached the error codes I'm running into and also listed them below. I'm using BimmerLink and have cleared the codes multiple times and these keep coming back. I know 180001 is linked to the catless downpipe and i believe 102001 is also a tuner code but the others I can't figure out.

Error Memory:
Central Gateway Module
801C20: CENTRAL FAULT MEMORY FULL
Digital Engine Electronics
180001: CATALYST: EFFICIENCY BELOW LIMIT
102001: AIR MASS, PLAUSIBILITY: AIR MASS TOO HIGH
101F01: THROTTLE ANGLE - ABSOLUTE PRESSURE INTAKE MANIFOLD, COMPARISON:PRESSURE TOO HIGH

Info Memory:
Integrated Chassis Management
482651: FLOATING ANGLE ESTIMATOR - INPUTS NOT VALID SBS
482656: FLOATING ANGLE ESTIMATOR - INTERNAL DEGRADATION DUE TO SBS
4827A0: SBS FUNCTION - ROLL RATE - ERROR AMPLITUDE DUE TO SUSPECTED ERROR
4827A4: SBS FUNCTION - PITCH RATE - ERROR AMPLITUDE DUE TO SUSPECTED ERROR
482782: STEERING ANGLE PLACEMENT ALGORITHM - MOUNTED BY INDEX SIGNAL
Dynamic Stability Control
480AB5: TRANSFER CASE LONG-TERM PROTECTION FUNCTION REQUESTED BY
THE LMV

Permanent Errors:
Digital Engine Electronics: FF1800: Unknown error

Recent Services: All DIY
Valve Cover Gasket at 100k miles
Coolant expansion tank hose
Spark plugs/new coils same time as valve cover gasket
Drive belt tensioner/idler pulley
ABS wheel speed sensor(Front Left)
Oil Change at 103k miles

Valve cover gasket was changed due to a small oil leak on my downpipe creating some smoke. I changed the tensioner/idler pulley due to the tensioner rocking back and forth at idle but the new one seems to do the same thing...I changed the ABS wheel speed sensor due to a drivetrain malfunction which listed that sensor as the issue and then got the same error the next day...

The car seems to rock back and forth a bit when I first start it up like a really rough idle but then seems to smooth out. The RPM gauge doesn't look to be jumping around which I guess is good but the car just feels like it's running rough. I also get a sporadic/intermittent hesitation when driving up hills like the car loses power for a split second then is fine again(very quick like the car hit a bump). I thought the new plugs/coils would fix this but they don't seem to have.

I've also noticed that if I get on the throttle the car seems like it's bogging down like i'm in the wrong gear at first then picks back up. I've read this could be a fuel pump issue but I assumed that would throw a code but haven't seen one. I have a hunch this is a tuning issue and have considered recently switching to BM3 for a more reliable flash tune compared to the piggy back.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated!

[cfm56d7b]

Remote diagnostics are not easy to perform.

About 101F01: there is a TSB which references this code.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...63029-9999.pdf

[thejeremyman9]

Did you try map 0 or removing the JB4 completely? Even if you have been running it for a while without an issue, that doesn't necessarily mean its not to blame for current issues.

[bendeyo]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

Did you try map 0 or removing the JB4 completely? Even if you have been running it for a while without an issue, that doesn't necessarily mean its not to blame for current issues.

I can try that. Are there any risk running map zero with a catless DP?

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by bendeyo

I can try that. Are there any risk running map zero with a catless DP?

No, I've seen people run FBO (IC+CP+DP) without a JB4 or any kind of tune. The car might need a little time to adapt, so i wouldnt go out and do WOT pulls immediately or anything, but the point is to clear the codes, go to map 0, and see if they come back.

[bendeyo]

Does anyone know if the drive belt tensioner should rock back and forth? I've read conflicting opinions on this and my new one seems to have as much movement as the old one.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by bendeyo

Does anyone know if the drive belt tensioner should rock back and forth? I've read conflicting opinions on this and my new one seems to have as much movement as the old one.

I just had my car in for this. They replaced it under CPO warranty. However, mine looks exactly the same after replacement. I have seen other videos where there is significant wobble before replacement and it looks rock solid after replacement. I also thought my actual crank pulley had a very slight wobble, but the dealer disagreed. Heres some recent posts on it, includes my "before" video:

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...1487648&page=3

[jv004]

Originally Posted by bendeyo

Does anyone know if the drive belt tensioner should rock back and forth? I've read conflicting opinions on this and my new one seems to have as much movement as the old one.

Pretty normal. You'll be replacing and replacing before you find that one that doesn't move. As long and it's not making noises I say don't worry about it.