[bucky_u]

I have read through the clutch strength thread, but I'm curious - would the car throw a "drivetrain error" when clutch slipping is detected?

I am maybe 100mi into stage 2 (Thanks to Mike from XPH!), and most of that was pretty pedestrian. I noticed what might have been some slipping from 2-3 under load, but it went by fast enough I chalked it up to user error. No errors flashed on screen then. Tonight, rolling on from 6th at highway speed, got the error and a bit of smell. Car feels fine driving normally. It as 56k miles. Not sure if it's the original clutch; I am the second owner.

I don't plan on pushing to stage 2+ or beyond. Should I still plan on replacing with a 550 clutch?

(I'm also kicking myself because I told my local shop I didn't want the stock dp back. didn't think there was a market for 55k mi, 5 year old dps, but alas ...)

Thanks guys!

[G.Newt]

Originally Posted by bucky_u

I have read through the clutch strength thread, but I'm curious - would the car throw a "drivetrain error" when clutch slipping is detected?

I am maybe 100mi into stage 2 (Thanks to Mike from XPH!), and most of that was pretty pedestrian. I noticed what might have been some slipping from 2-3 under load, but it went by fast enough I chalked it up to user error. No errors flashed on screen then. Tonight, rolling on from 6th at highway speed, got the error and a bit of smell. Car feels fine driving normally. It as 56k miles. Not sure if it's the original clutch; I am the second owner.

I don't plan on pushing to stage 2+ or beyond. Should I still plan on replacing with a 550 clutch?

(I'm also kicking myself because I told my local shop I didn't want the stock dp back. didn't think there was a market for 55k mi, 5 year old dps, but alas ...)

Thanks guys!

You should upgrade to the 335is clutch, yes.

[WUKONS]

Yeah, with MG Flasher Stage 2 mine was slipping in 4th pulls, not that i could feel it but logs was telling me that it's happening, went with 50i clutch, now on Stage 2+ for about 3k miles and all is good.

[B58 parts]

I'm not far behind you. 45k and I get occasional codes for inadequate clutch force, engine torque reduced. Limp mode, no boost. Turn off and on, no problem. It doesn't pop up on the dash, only when I plug in. The other day was the 4th time so it's not going away. It holds fine, really I should try to delete this sensor / code it off.


Awd, larger tires and a heavy foot, I hoped it'd be ok to 75k or so, but maybe not. The disc seems fine just a nanny with no purpose. I'm at stage 1 for the time being.

I'll ask the guy for a labor quote, I'm not doing that on the floor. May as well do a new OEM DMF, and rear main while you're in there. Even the secondary cylinder. I think there's an aftermarket fork and especially fork pivot which would be nice.

I still don't know for certain if the 550 or 335is works or if they're different. Can someone confirm, what's the best OEM upgrade for the b58? 550?

Are there any good aftermarket options? A light SMF could be really fun, but I doubt I'll go that way. Maybe.

[G.Newt]

Originally Posted by YuminNuman

I'm not far behind you. 45k and I get occasional codes for inadequate clutch force, engine torque reduced. Limp mode, no boost. Turn off and on, no problem. It doesn't pop up on the dash, only when I plug in. The other day was the 4th time so it's not going away. It holds fine, really I should try to delete this sensor / code it off.


Awd, larger tires and a heavy foot, I hoped it'd be ok to 75k or so, but maybe not. The disc seems fine just a nanny with no purpose. I'm at stage 1 for the time being.

I'll ask the guy for a labor quote, I'm not doing that on the floor. May as well do a new OEM DMF, and rear main while you're in there. Even the secondary cylinder. I think there's an aftermarket fork and especially fork pivot which would be nice.

I still don't know for certain if the 550 or 335is works or if they're different. Can someone confirm, what's the best OEM upgrade for the b58? 550?

Are there any good aftermarket options? A light SMF could be really fun, but I doubt I'll go that way. Maybe.

You can always verify most things yourself via realoem.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=21_0227
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=21_0227

Same clutch kit part #. I try to clear up the confusion by usually writing 335is/550i, to indicate they're the same.
That's what most of us have upgraded to and are running. It's the most cost effective.

[B58 parts]

Thanks, 335is/550i being the same now makes a lot more sense, I didn't realize

[bucky_u]

Originally Posted by YuminNuman

I'm not far behind you. 45k and I get occasional codes for inadequate clutch force, engine torque reduced. Limp mode, no boost. Turn off and on, no problem. It doesn't pop up on the dash, only when I plug in. The other day was the 4th time so it's not going away. It holds fine, really I should try to delete this sensor / code it off.

Mine shows a message on the dash every time I start the car. I've driven around town, and it seems ok. No pulls since the code started. I've also only driven 9k of the car's 56k miles - no idea how rough the previous owner was.

I'm gearing up to get the LuK kit, just waiting to hear from my local shop about availability.

[joeyb26]

Originally Posted by bucky_u

Mine shows a message on the dash every time I start the car. I've driven around town, and it seems ok. No pulls since the code started. I've also only driven 9k of the car's 56k miles - no idea how rough the previous owner was.

I'm gearing up to get the LuK kit, just waiting to hear from my local shop about availability.

Mine was also throwing a drivetrain error code when my clutch was slipping. Upgraded to the 550i clutch and no issues since

[Ifellapart]

Even if you were never gonna use the stock DP again for whatever reason...a catalytic converter is worth like $400 to those recycle programs...

[vcx]

Originally Posted by WUKONS

Yeah, with MG Flasher Stage 2 mine was slipping in 4th pulls, not that i could feel it but logs was telling me that it's happening, went with 50i clutch, now on Stage 2+ for about 3k miles and all is good.

Bump

Sorry for this old question.

My clutch is starting to slip. I plan to upgrade it with the 335is/550i clutch kit (probably Sachs ZF one), as many of you already did.

My plan is going stage 2+ with MG Flasher.

My question: do I need to remplace the flywheel as well ?

My car is around 30'000 miles and I don't plan to do aggressive launches or anything like that. I also want to keep a dual mass flywheel.

Some people say that it's better to change the flywheel at the same time, but I would prefer not, if it makes sens to upgrade only the clutch.

Thank you!

[G.Newt]

Originally Posted by vcx

Bump

Sorry for this old question.

My clutch is starting to slip. I plan to upgrade it with the 335is/550i clutch kit (probably Sachs ZF one), as many of you already did.

My plan is going stage 2+ with MG Flasher.

My question: do I need to remplace the flywheel as well ?

My car is around 30'000 miles and I don't plan to do aggressive launches or anything like that. I also want to keep a dual mass flywheel.

Some people say that it's better to change the flywheel at the same time, but I would prefer not, if it makes sens to upgrade only the clutch.

Thank you!

That's not that many miles. You're probably fine honestly. Mine had a few heat spots but nothing major. Have it inspected when the job is being done. DMFW's are expensive lol

[Wires]

Originally Posted by vcx

Bump

Sorry for this old question.

My clutch is starting to slip. I plan to upgrade it with the 335is/550i clutch kit (probably Sachs ZF one), as many of you already did.

My plan is going stage 2+ with MG Flasher.

My question: do I need to remplace the flywheel as well ?

My car is around 30'000 miles and I don't plan to do aggressive launches or anything like that. I also want to keep a dual mass flywheel.

Some people say that it's better to change the flywheel at the same time, but I would prefer not, if it makes sens to upgrade only the clutch.

Thank you!

You shouldn't need to change it, but you probably need it machined. If the clutch has been abused, you will get glazing on the flywheel which will cause a new clutch to slip.

Correction.. apparently you cannot machine a dual mass flywheel (at least that's what the first google hit is telling me ) It will be obvious once you pull it apart if you need to deal with the flywheel.

[B58 parts]

I just did the 550 clutch. Nice upgrade, very grabby. I launched the shit out of it today, it was good, spun the fronts a little. No wheel hop no thunk noises. I wonder what it would 60', I should go to the track and see what it runs. Now I will do the downpipe and stage 2 for summer.

55k on the clutch and there was barely anything left. A few weeks ago it finally threw the light on the dash and the revs bounced going up hill. A full 2nd gear pull would just eat through it. Probably 1 or 2k more miles from getting stuck, not great life, this one has to last a little longer..

It's a lot like it was when new. I bought a new DMf. Some shops can resurface dmf. Clutch masters will do it, I am told. I'm going to try and will sell it, or have it for later. New slave, cdv parts binned, bronze fork pivot, new rear main and input shaft seal, and tbox mount.