[acefr]

Originally Posted by bassrebel

I started asking the eBay sellers without luck, in turn, I just went to eBay and after a 2 hour search I was able to find the correct plug and ordered it... now to wait a month until I get it... ugh! lol

Good luck, I hope it works for you. Why didn't you sell your CCC unit and get a CIC unit? How do you know there are no hardware difference between them besides the connector?

[bassrebel]

Originally Posted by acefr

Good luck, I hope it works for you. Why didn't you sell your CCC unit and get a CIC unit? How do you know there are no hardware difference between them besides the connector?

Basically the main difference is the way the system is set up, and that can be arranged in factory settings (between CCC and CIC). So based on that I'm assuming that as long as I connect the right cable, it should be able to read the same information.

Since I bought it used, I don't think I'll be able to find such a deal again

[dico21]

Originally Posted by Kri

Your broken cable is the wireless LAN antenna.
you can either solder ist again directly to the board, or which is more easily solder it on the two large pads on the side.
The inner pad is the signal line, the outside pad (near to the end) is the shield pad.

Retrofitting a combox does not have any relation to your missing can at the headunit.

10.4V voltage on the bus is way too high, you have measured it correctly ?
At TIS there is a guide how to measure K-can , it is for F series but does also fit E series.

when you do have the same Board, maybe you also have the same harness ?
My harness has configurable CAN connectors, check if your`s also does have it.

Attachment 2372837

Check your harness if CAN is going from input to output of your harness, they are pin 9 and 11.


It should also work with only one can transceivers as it is working on most e series cars this way.

Kri

Thank you for your help.

The signal line in the LAN antenna has the plastic cover, correct? I have attached a picture of how I intend to solder.

Do the solder connections for the break out board (or whatever proper name is) transmit power/signal or do they just hold the break out board to PCB (main board)? I have attached a picture showing that some of these are cross soldered, and the break our board is not touching the pcb at one corner.

I am testing the voltage correctly on the CAN and testing at the CIC head unit quadlock. My Can Low (green) shows ~.4v and Can High (orange/green) shows ~4.3v when the car is running or in ready state. Can High shifts to about 10.7v after removing key, locking door, and waiting one minute. I thought I read online somewhere that this is part of the wake or sleep signal, but if something is off let me know. I have bimmercode and do not remember seeing any fault codes, do you know if CAN faults would show in the app? I have no other issues with the vehicle, so I do not suspect any CAN issue, but it could be possible.

[Kri]

Originally Posted by dico21

Thank you for your help.

The signal line in the LAN antenna has the plastic cover, correct? I have attached a picture of how I intend to solder.

Do the solder connections for the break out board (or whatever proper name is) transmit power/signal or do they just hold the break out board to PCB (main board)? I have attached a picture showing that some of these are cross soldered, and the break our board is not touching the pcb at one corner.

I am testing the voltage correctly on the CAN and testing at the CIC head unit quadlock. My Can Low (green) shows ~.4v and Can High (orange/green) shows ~4.3v when the car is running or in ready state. Can High shifts to about 10.7v after removing key, locking door, and waiting one minute. I thought I read online somewhere that this is part of the wake or sleep signal, but if something is off let me know. I have bimmercode and do not remember seeing any fault codes, do you know if CAN faults would show in the app? I have no other issues with the vehicle, so I do not suspect any CAN issue, but it could be possible.

Yep the plastic shielded cable is signal, your picture is looking fine to solder it on this pads.

But WTF this is some serious bend of the MSM Board
Luckily the lifted pads are only "gnd", so hopefully should not have an affect.

Wen having the two 4.xV voltages at the car when running it is fine, i thought you had the 10.4v when running the car.

have you checked the harness as i stated ?

Kri

[dico21]

Originally Posted by Kri

Yep the plastic shielded cable is signal, your picture is looking fine to solder it on this pads.

But WTF this is some serious bend of the MSM Board
Luckily the lifted pads are only "gnd", so hopefully should not have an affect.

Wen having the two 4.xV voltages at the car when running it is fine, i thought you had the 10.4v when running the car.

have you checked the harness as i stated ?

Kri

Yes, I have the same harness as you and it is connected in the same way. CAN A--> CAN B and CAN C-->CAN 1. iDrive works fine on BMW side with harness connected, and I also checked the voltage at the connector at the back of the Android head unit and its is the same as at quadlock so harness seems good.

EDIT: I finished soldering everything up and connected to a battery in my workshop to test. I am getting the BMW connected drive/no signal boot loop. Is this because I only have power/ground connected or did disconnecting things mess something else up?

[Mjam]

Originally Posted by bassrebel

Basically the main difference is the way the system is set up, and that can be arranged in factory settings (between CCC and CIC).

There is also different MCU for CCC and CIC. I don't know if it's possible to install cic_mcu above ccc_mcu, normally you should get an error message, but you also risk bricking the unit.

[Kri]

Originally Posted by dico21

Yes, I have the same harness as you and it is connected in the same way. CAN A--> CAN B and CAN C-->CAN 1. iDrive works fine on BMW side with harness connected, and I also checked the voltage at the connector at the back of the Android head unit and its is the same as at quadlock so harness seems good.

EDIT: I finished soldering everything up and connected to a battery in my workshop to test. I am getting the BMW connected drive/no signal boot loop. Is this because I only have power/ground connected or did disconnecting things mess something else up?

It should start with only power/ground, but when you see the connected/drive logo it already does start booting to android (boot partition).
When you only have done the soldering there should be no reason for the system to do not start anymore

you can try the OTA-Recovery method from page one to bring the unit back alive, but all settings/changes you have made will be lost.

Kri

[bassrebel]

Originally Posted by Mirjam

There is also different MCU for CCC and CIC. I don't know if it's possible to install cic_mcu above ccc_mcu, normally you should get an error message, but you also risk bricking the unit.

I shall be the test subject =)

[Gold007]

Hi there.
my question is that i upgraded to 1.9 and it doesn't allow id6 or id5 to switch to only id7 is there. what can be done?

[e36addict]

Question: I have the MHD app running to watch gauges, but when you open up the apps the radio turns off. Is there some sort of config where you can have the radio playing while you're in an app? Thanks.

[dico21]

Originally Posted by Kri

It should start with only power/ground, but when you see the connected/drive logo it already does start booting to android (boot partition).
When you only have done the soldering there should be no reason for the system to do not start anymore

you can try the OTA-Recovery method from page one to bring the unit back alive, but all settings/changes you have made will be lost.

Kri

Not looking good for me. I first get the system screen and then stuck in the connected drive/no signal boot loop. I took the unit out to the car (my harness is still wired in), connected the unit, and attempted the OTA recovery method, but the unit just continues to loop and doesn't seem to load from usb (tried both usb ports).

Are the connections on the side of the MSM board to either side of the WIFI terminals also ground or do these perform certain functions? I attempted to clean up the soldering here and am afraid I've done more harm than good.

I have the usb connection pads on the board so I may try the recovery method posted by endursa

UPDATE: I soldered the usb connection on the board, but was not able to see the android headunit as a device on my PC (I tried showing hidden devices). However, after turning the unit on to test the usb connection, it boot up normally again and I am no longer stuck in the boot loop...BUT my unit does not have WiFi signal. I am going to remove the antenna connections from the solder pad and replace them on the MSM board to see if that resolves the issue.

ANOTHER UPDATE: I soldered the WiFi antenna back onto the MSM board and I have connection again, maybe the pads aren't enabled in software? In any case, I am back to status quo. Not hopeful that anything is fixed, but I will connect to vehicle in the morning and find out. [Also, I do not mean to be a pain, hoping that maybe my unfruitful ventures will be able to help someone else in the future.]

[bassrebel]

Originally Posted by Mirjam

There is also different MCU for CCC and CIC. I don't know if it's possible to install cic_mcu above ccc_mcu, normally you should get an error message, but you also risk bricking the unit.

I was able to (after a whole week of back and forth) to get avin to replace the head unit for a CIC one even if I wasn’t the original purchaser.

[Kuj0n]

After updating to 1.9.1 I have problem with HeadunitReloaded. Before I had it in selfmode with autostart. Now if i didn't open and close Android Auto manually (I don't need to start media server) HUR will not work - it shows only black screen and telling that has granted root permissions. I can even wait 20minutes and there will be only black screen so i need to close it from app menu, open and close AA and then I can run back HUR.
I was trying to reinstall AA and HUR and also reroot unit.

[sstyle]

is there any way to pair android HU (like smartphone) to OEM HU by bluetooth for maximum sound quality?

[F20_M135i]

unfortunately no, because the android bluetooth is restricted as a slave (it receives only) and again, this android BT module is not capable of a real data exchange, I do not yet know if it is a software or hardware restriction (I look for)

Kri : for the recovery of the factory_config.xml = THANKS
However this is the original file, everything that we change in it does not seem to fit into it (it's curious) This forces you to start over its configuration in case of replacement (sound volume, preferably ID etc ...) I would like to know where is the one that is modified by the user ....




JUST FOR INFORMATION (The goal of these tests is to improve the sound quality): I connected a usb sound card with pink and green jack (headphone and sound) the sound of the unit then cuts out, it does not broadcast more on the jack (connected under my armrest) I then tried to connect the jack under my armrest to the usb card connected to the unit = FAIL the sound does not pass (I tried to make a loop) I then connected a mobile phone to this USB sound card with a "jack to jack" cable = FAIL the sound does not go (I unplugged the jack cable under the front armrest) It is therefore impossible to bring in sound by the USB socket of our units.

[bennyblitz]

Can I update my HU with the last available MCU update by ksw: 023052dGS-NBT-GTH-DC1-200709 or should I wait for a CCC version ?

My last installed MCU version is: 023052dGS-CCC-GTL-191127-B18

[RedErik]

Originally Posted by bennyblitz

Can I update my HU with the last available MCU update by ksw: 023052dGS-NBT-GTH-DC1-200709 or should I wait for a CCC version ?

My last installed MCU version is: 023052dGS-CCC-GTL-191127-B18

You cannot use NBT MCU for updating CCC stuff - this is not compatible. Best case it would be rejected, worst case you can mess things up. The rule for updating MCU is simple: find file matching your vendor, system type and screen version.

[Kri]

Originally Posted by F20_M135i

Kri : for the recovery of the factory_config.xml = THANKS
However this is the original file, everything that we change in it does not seem to fit into it (it's curious) This forces you to start over its configuration in case of replacement (sound volume, preferably ID etc ...) I would like to know where is the one that is modified by the user ....

I did a OTA-factory wipe last week and the imported file on the system is my own not any other.

For sure changes that are made on the system do not appear at this file as it is only the temporary file for importing, it`s not designed to backup your current unit settings, it`s designed to configure the file on your computer first and then inject to the headunit.
All other Options that are changed at the unit are stored within databases and can not be backuped, thats how Android works.

JUST FOR INFORMATION (The goal of these tests is to improve the sound quality): I connected a usb sound card with pink and green jack (headphone and sound) the sound of the unit then cuts out, it does not broadcast more on the jack (connected under my armrest) I then tried to connect the jack under my armrest to the usb card connected to the unit = FAIL the sound does not pass (I tried to make a loop) I then connected a mobile phone to this USB sound card with a "jack to jack" cable = FAIL the sound does not go (I unplugged the jack cable under the front armrest) It is therefore impossible to bring in sound by the USB socket of our units.

I it possible to do so (SD625 unit), check the soundcard guide.
The External soundcard does behave as Headphones, so the original Aux cable will for sure be muted.
the external soundcard is set to a very low volume that why you probably don`t hear anything, you need to raise volume at Android Settings, not the BMW gui.

Kri

[Kri]

I want to thank DRuw very much for donoring his old headunit to revive my faulty one

Luckly the display of his old PX Headunit does fit my Snapdragon Board so with a little bit of tape i was able to install the board within the Display and be able to run it !
So for now i have a fully working 2nd SD625 Headunit for checking firmware Updated and testing at my desk



sincerely Kri

[DRuw]

Glad I could help!
Now don't brick it

[RedErik]

Originally Posted by Kri

I want to thank DRuw very much for donoring his old headunit to revive my faulty one

Luckly the display of his old PX Headunit does fit my Snapdragon Board so with a little bit of tape i was able to install the board within the Display and be able to run it !
So for now i have a fully working 2nd SD625 Headunit for checking firmware Updated and testing at my desk

sincerely Kri

Yay!

Originally Posted by DRuw

Glad I could help!
Now don't brick it

LOL

[bassrebel]

Originally Posted by bassrebel

I was able to (after a whole week of back and forth) to get avin to replace the head unit for a CIC one even if I wasn’t the original purchaser.

And now they said they can’t... biggest joke on earth! I am just about done with this!!!