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      03-29-2018, 11:45 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by raichean View Post
Any last minute advice before Saturday? I think I have my logs all setup with the suggested values. I have also slightly brushed off the rest on my excel skills on my test log, so I can graph out multi-axis values and actually show them simultaneously.

Also, I *assume* the pulls should be in 4th gear (6MT)? Thought I would double check.. my stock pulls a year ago were on the suggestion of the shop then. My last runs were one in 3rd, and 2 in 4th.

I am going to run logs, plus interior and exterior video just for fun and will compile the video and share that and the logs and dyno graphs here.
4th gear all runs if stock FMIC
5th gear all runs if FMIC/DP

Have Dyno operator start progressively at 2000 rpm and logging the dyno run until 6900rpm no less no more

Last but not least, bring a usb thumb drive so you can put your Dyno files in there
Quote:
Originally Posted by F30_SixSpeed View Post
5th gear will yield the most accurate (and usually higher) numbers. It is the 1:1 gear ratio on the 6MT. I would do them in 5th.

Only downfall is if on stock intercooler, car will heatsoak a bit more up top and if the speed limiter is not removed (assuming yours is) it will hit the speed limiter.
100% i would dyno in 4th gear if on stock IC for sure

You gotta turn off DSC Off ? since car will prob cut or spin on rollers in Sport+ right?

A few things he can manipulate
- Letting car cool off with hood open
- Cool temps at Dyno or and good air-flow will help
- Leave hood open on Dyno
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      03-29-2018, 11:55 AM   #24
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Yeah.. AA FMIC but still stock DP, so still 5th? Ambient temps should be ok as still cool here in the PacNW, plus 10am dyno time. Their fans look pretty good and definitely run with hood up.

Great info on RPM, thank you.
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      03-29-2018, 12:22 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by raichean View Post
Yeah.. AA FMIC but still stock DP, so still 5th? Ambient temps should be ok as still cool here in the PacNW, plus 10am dyno time. Their fans look pretty good and definitely run with hood up.

Great info on RPM, thank you.
USB stick to transfer your Dyno runs / dyno files
If Dynojet, get the winpep DRF file is called
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      03-29-2018, 12:32 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FSociety View Post
USB stick to transfer your Dyno runs / dyno files
If Dynojet, get the winpep DRF file is called
Yeah.. they were kind enough to email me the files last time, and will make sure to do the same.

Here is what I just got from AA regarding the dyno run and speed limiter:

"We always run them in 4th, the speed limiter is set to 320mph (512kph)… I think you’ll be ok. Unless the dyno facility has a fan capable of simulating 100+mph winds, I wouldn’t run it in 5th."
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      03-29-2018, 12:42 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raichean View Post
Yeah.. they were kind enough to email me the files last time, and will make sure to do the same.

Here is what I just got from AA regarding the dyno run and speed limiter:

"We always run them in 4th, the speed limiter is set to 320mph (512kph)… I think you’ll be ok. Unless the dyno facility has a fan capable of simulating 100+mph winds, I wouldn’t run it in 5th."
I would take their advice
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      03-29-2018, 12:59 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raichean View Post
Yeah.. they were kind enough to email me the files last time, and will make sure to do the same.

Here is what I just got from AA regarding the dyno run and speed limiter:

"We always run them in 4th, the speed limiter is set to 320mph (512kph)… I think you’ll be ok. Unless the dyno facility has a fan capable of simulating 100+mph winds, I wouldn’t run it in 5th."
Are you guys also at sea level? Make sure they plot AFR/Lamda and psi also!!!!!
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      03-29-2018, 01:04 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ceedawg View Post
Are you guys also at sea level? Make sure they plot AFR/Lamda and psi also!!!!!
I am not quite sea level, but I am sure less than 250 feet, on where I will be.

Current log set is:

AFR commanded
AFR measured
Ambient Air temp
Engine load absolute
Engine RPM
Fuel Rail Pressure
Fuel trim bank 1 short term
Fuel trim bank 2 short term
IAT
MAF rate
Speed (obd)
Timing Advance
Turbo boost and vacuum gauge
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      03-29-2018, 01:10 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raichean View Post
I am not quite sea level, but I am sure less than 250 feet, on where I will be.

Current log set is:

AFR commanded
AFR measured
Ambient Air temp
Engine load absolute
Engine RPM
Fuel Rail Pressure
Fuel trim bank 1 short term
Fuel trim bank 2 short term
IAT
MAF rate
Speed (obd)
Timing Advance
Turbo boost and vacuum gauge
I would imagine that they will be logging too so that's cool what you have there as well.
What is that you are using to log?
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      03-29-2018, 01:17 PM   #31
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I am running Torque Pro via the OBD
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      03-29-2018, 01:24 PM   #32
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I am running Torque Pro via the OBD
Interesting! I don't have a JB4 but maybe for the time being I can use that. Is it a kit or an app?
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      03-29-2018, 01:26 PM   #33
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The Torque Pro app is available from the Play store and I use it all the time to look up codes, reset stuff etc. Then I just have a simple Bluetooth OBD adapter.
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      03-29-2018, 01:51 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raichean View Post
The Torque Pro app is available from the Play store and I use it all the time to look up codes, reset stuff etc. Then I just have a simple Bluetooth OBD adapter.
Please post a link for the adpt if you can ,much appreciated

Quote:
Originally Posted by raichean View Post
The Torque Pro app is available from the Play store and I use it all the time to look up codes, reset stuff etc. Then I just have a simple Bluetooth OBD adapter.
Still kinda waiting for a complete commentary on how the BEAST feels in general with the AA SW especially in comparison after using the former Active 8 piggy. Maybe that will come after your dyno
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      03-29-2018, 02:20 PM   #35
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You can get the adapter from like 1,000 places, I got mine from Avin when I ordered the deck for my E46 a couple of years ago.

For the review, happy to describe what is the butt-dyno differences. The active 8 is absolutely a great product, and felt smoother than the JB4 though my sample time with that was shorter, and never got beyond map 1 or 5. A8 was a smooth ramp with a big surge around 2600 RPM that really was a kick in the pants as you crossed that line. With my other bolt ons, I was roughly 330rwp/330 torque with the A8.

The new ECU tune is a different monster and for understandable reasons. Setting aside the ability to change the sport gauges and the like, it is absolutely a more specific and I suspect more aggressive tune. The car feels MUCH stronger than before, and in what feels like a linear curve than a surge like before. If I am coming hard out of 2nd or 3rd, especially 2nd, I feel like I get some back end wiggle that I never had before stock or with the A8. With the M4 sport gauges code in place, I can easily put both needles around 370ish without any trouble, though we all know those gauges are a SWAG at best. The real test will be full dyno and logs this weekend, plus I will provide all of that back to AA for review, and any further possible modifications based on that data. In addition, I will have the AA DP as soon as they ship me one, and will dyno yet again.

I have ZERO desire to push my motor, turbo or components to the breaking point, but its clear there is a lot of ceiling room on these motors and I want to get closer to that.
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      03-29-2018, 02:42 PM   #36
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You'll get higher numbers running in 5th (assuming you're not heat soaking), BUT it's a lot harder on the motor, especially in the lower rpms because you're creating a very high load situation going full throttle and 2,000rpms (i.e., low rpm, heavy boost). High load can create over-boosting at boost onset and worse, severe detonation. The 5th gear run will generate a more heat as well because......it's a much longer run. I would strongly suggest running in 4th. It's just better for the motor and you should still get very solid and usable data. If you want to know what the 5th gear numbers are, simply multiply by 1.5% and that will give you a general idea.

If it's available, run 93 octane. Put the biggest fan(s) you can in the front the IC and radiator.
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      03-29-2018, 02:44 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XutvJet View Post
You'll get higher numbers running in 5th (assuming you're not heat soaking), BUT it's a lot harder on the motor, especially in the lower rpms because you're creating a very low load situation (i.e., low rpm, heavy boost). High load can create over-boosting at boost onset and worse, severe detonation. The 5th gear run will generate a more heat as well because......it's a much longer run. I would strongly suggest running in 4th. It's just better for the motor and you should still get very solid and usable data. If you want to know what the 5th gear numbers are, simply multiply by 1.5% and that will give you a general idea.

If it's available, run 93 octane. Put the biggest fan you can in the front the IC and radiator.
Thanks man, I appreciate all of the info.. I will make sure they have all possible fans on (they have a bunch) and sadly its 92 octane here in WA. At least its not 91 like CA.
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      03-29-2018, 03:09 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XutvJet View Post
You'll get higher numbers running in 5th (assuming you're not heat soaking), BUT it's a lot harder on the motor, especially in the lower rpms because you're creating a very high load situation going full throttle and 2,000rpms (i.e., low rpm, heavy boost). High load can create over-boosting at boost onset and worse, severe detonation. The 5th gear run will generate a more heat as well because......it's a much longer run. I would strongly suggest running in 4th. It's just better for the motor and you should still get very solid and usable data. If you want to know what the 5th gear numbers are, simply multiply by 1.5% and that will give you a general idea.

If it's available, run 93 octane. Put the biggest fan(s) you can in the front the IC and radiator.
Great advice! Think FSociety mentioned that too.
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      03-29-2018, 03:10 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ceedawg View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by raichean View Post
The Torque Pro app is available from the Play store and I use it all the time to look up codes, reset stuff etc. Then I just have a simple Bluetooth OBD adapter.
Please post a link for the adpt if you can ,much appreciated

Quote:
Originally Posted by raichean View Post
The Torque Pro app is available from the Play store and I use it all the time to look up codes, reset stuff etc. Then I just have a simple Bluetooth OBD adapter.
Still kinda waiting for a complete commentary on how the BEAST feels in general with the AA SW especially in comparison after using the former Active 8 piggy. Maybe that will come after your dyno
Just a heads up in case it applies, the Torque app is Android only. I've been running OBD Fusion on iPhone for some data logs. Not sure if it reads all the same PIDs, but without a JB4 or other tune-specific logging capabilities, it's better than nothing. Also, idk if it's just me, but I have both a Bluetooth BLE and a WiFi adapter and they seem to read slightly different sets of PIDs through the same app (OBD Fusion).
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      03-29-2018, 03:12 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raichean View Post
You can get the adapter from like 1,000 places, I got mine from Avin when I ordered the deck for my E46 a couple of years ago.

For the review, happy to describe what is the butt-dyno differences. The active 8 is absolutely a great product, and felt smoother than the JB4 though my sample time with that was shorter, and never got beyond map 1 or 5. A8 was a smooth ramp with a big surge around 2600 RPM that really was a kick in the pants as you crossed that line. With my other bolt ons, I was roughly 330rwp/330 torque with the A8.

The new ECU tune is a different monster and for understandable reasons. Setting aside the ability to change the sport gauges and the like, it is absolutely a more specific and I suspect more aggressive tune. The car feels MUCH stronger than before, and in what feels like a linear curve than a surge like before. If I am coming hard out of 2nd or 3rd, especially 2nd, I feel like I get some back end wiggle that I never had before stock or with the A8. With the M4 sport gauges code in place, I can easily put both needles around 370ish without any trouble, though we all know those gauges are a SWAG at best. The real test will be full dyno and logs this weekend, plus I will provide all of that back to AA for review, and any further possible modifications based on that data. In addition, I will have the AA DP as soon as they ship me one, and will dyno yet again.

I have ZERO desire to push my motor, turbo or components to the breaking point, but its clear there is a lot of ceiling room on these motors and I want to get closer to that.
Certainly looking forward! Great review and yes you want to run as safe a situation as possible not to hurt the motor.
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      03-29-2018, 05:13 PM   #41
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Shall we make a pool on what his number is? I say 325 if xdrive and 338 if not
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      03-29-2018, 05:36 PM   #42
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Shall we make a pool on what his number is? I say 325 if xdrive and 338 if not
These would be whp figures right? So just to see if my math is right, if we assume 15% drivetrain loss (as Dinan calculates), 338whp would translate to around 398bhp?

Algebra was a long time ago, but I calculated:

338whp = bhp(.85) -> 85% being bhp minus 15%
338/.85 = bhp -> divide both sides by .85
397.65 = bhp right? or am I off my rocker?
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      03-29-2018, 05:43 PM   #43
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Quote:
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Shall we make a pool on what his number is? I say 325 if xdrive and 338 if not
You think he's losing power by going to a flash?

I'll throw a dart - 365 whp and 390 wtq
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      03-29-2018, 05:56 PM   #44
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