[blau3er]

Thanks for the replies gents!

I am looking at the Dodo range of deadening - their 'SQ' series stuff.

They have the following three products that I am considering using in various locations.

What are peoples thoughts on these? I am UK based obviously - but I dont mind spending to get the best stuff possible.

SQ deadening plus - which is a 1.5mm butyl mat with an incorporated 3mm foam layer

https://www.dodomat.com/collections/...deadening-plus

SQ liner - 8mm foam liner

https://www.dodomat.com/collections/...o-mat-sq-liner

SQ speaker enhancer - a foam ring, that can be cut to length and added around the speaker housing

https://www.dodomat.com/collections/...eaker-enhancer

[Billfitz]

Hate repeating myself, but foam does absolutely diddly squat where road noise/low frequencies are concerned. Look at the link I posted, that or the equivalent is what you need. I will say that Dodo is aptly named.

[blau3er]

Thanks for the reply.

I saw your link, but the product is listed as not available (probably because I’m in the UK).

Dodo has a great reputation here in the UK, and is very well known. They do a 2mm thick butyl mat, which appears to be the same thickness of the butyl mat in your link.

I will probably go with that option - but was just intrigued by their other product on that link where it’s a 1.5mm thick butyl layer but with an added 3.5mm of foam giving an overall thicker layer of material.

This is not an area where I have any knowledge so I am learning as I go. My aim isn’t purely to improve the sound of the speakers - I would also like this project to reduce trim rattles and overall road noise - which is where I thought the foam may help?

[Billfitz]

Reducing rattles and road noise isn't done with thicker material, it's done with the maximum mass that can be added.

[blau3er]

OK, and at that point I assume it becomes a choice between thicker butyl and weight?

I assume 2mm is the sweet spot between the benefits of the deadening and the extra weight that a thicker butyl sheet would add to the car?

[Billfitz]

It's not a choice between thicker butyl and weight. You use butyl because it has high mass. You don't use foam because it has low mass. It's the same reason why we use cast iron and not wood for boat anchors. AFAIK 2mm is the thickest butyl available.

[agentorange]

Did we ever find out if the OP kept their F31 or did they dump it. I wonder if their issue was loose or incorrectly fitted undertrays.

[BaconDouble]

Bill,

I am considering doing this to my car, and I have an F34 like you. It seems to be an easy DIY with a lot of upside potential.

I don't have a garage and only 1 vehicle so I need something I can complete a little at a time or at least over a weekend. I also am hesitant to pull apart anything for fear I may break plastic clips and make things worse then had I not touched anything at all.

1. On the F34, are there any additional areas you'd recommend treating? Or just the 4 doors? What about the rear removable parcel shelf or spare tire area and side panels inside the trunk? tailgate, wheel wheels, etc.? Where is the biggest bang for the buck?

2. There seems to be asphalt based and butyl based sound deadeners. It seems you recommend the butyl products? 80 mils it seems is mentioned so I'll look for that.

3. Do you recommend coating inside the door skins or just lay the material over the existing vapor barrier - or both?

4. Any clearance issues with adding some additional millimeters of stuff to the door panels, etc?

5. Are there any instructions available on how to remove the F3x door panels safely?

Thanks for your advice

[Billfitz]

I believe I covered all those subjects over the course of this thread other than the parcel shelves. I lined mine. I had to use screws as well as the adhesive, as they sagged when they got hot. There are youtube videos how to remove the door cards.

[blau3er]

Took a guess with my order of material - think I may have over ordered!



I'm sure I will find plenty of places to put it, and I'll be able to tackle areas I wasn't previously planning on.

Made a start with the sub enclosures (I bought a couple of spares, to make it easier) and its fairly easy to do.

[fe7565]

The other day I replaced my halogen bulbs with LED “bulbs” and noticed that between the front wheel wells and the engine compartment towards the engine bay front there is only thin plastic in about a 2-3 sqft area. The rest has heat shield or metal on top/behind. Anyone added a sound dampener here? I assume need one designed to stay on with all that heat.

[Alpinadrachten]

follow

[Alpinadrachten]

Originally Posted by Aladinnu

I will soon do the weel weels to.

Hi,
Can I ask how you did the wheel arches ? From the outside or from the inside?

Do you have a link of the insulation material U used?
THank you.

[fe7565]

I had/have the same question. But I think the answer was already given by Billfitz : the butyl 2mm should be added either on the body between the wheel arch lining, or on the wheel arch lining itself.

In my case, I want to reduce engine noise (4cyl direct fuel injection rattle). I am mainly concerned about the thin plastic that is not insulated at all inside the engine bay, right above the front area of the wheel arches. IMHO, placing the butyl on the wheel liner itself (between the engine bay body and the wheel liner) maybe the better option as it has less heat that could mess with the adhesive, and also probably better ensures coverage of all noises escaping the engine bay to the outside.


Another second concern is the firewall separating the engine from inside the car. I only want to do it from inside, because it seems relatively easier to get to it than placing it inside the engine bay. But there are so many things attached to the firewall inside the car and in irregular 3D shapes, that not sure how I can cover all of them, or even if I should?

And lastly, I would like to add some noise dampeners on the hood, under the black foamy liner and on bare metal sections. But concerned about the heat. So I gather I must find a butyl that is rated for high heat adhesion.

[Jvac]

Originally Posted by fe7565

I had/have the same question. But I think the answer was already given by Billfitz : the butyl 2mm should be added either on the body between the wheel arch lining, or on the wheel arch lining itself.

In my case, I want to reduce engine noise (4cyl direct fuel injection rattle). I am mainly concerned about the thin plastic that is not insulated at all inside the engine bay, right above the front area of the wheel arches. IMHO, placing the butyl on the wheel liner itself (between the engine bay body and the wheel liner) maybe the better option as it has less heat that could mess with the adhesive, and also probably better ensures coverage of all noises escaping the engine bay to the outside.


Another second concern is the firewall separating the engine from inside the car. I only want to do it from inside, because it seems relatively easier to get to it than placing it inside the engine bay. But there are so many things attached to the firewall inside the car and in irregular 3D shapes, that not sure how I can cover all of them, or even if I should?

And lastly, I would like to add some noise dampeners on the hood, under the black foamy liner and on bare metal sections. But concerned about the heat. So I gather I must find a butyl that is rated for high heat adhesion.

I wanted to do this too, but I gave up on the idea for the same reasons you listed. Too many odd shapes, tight spaces, ehat, water, dirt etc. I just wasn't confident that everything would stick or fit back together without interfering with moving parts.

[Billfitz]

If I was to do that I'd remove the wheel arch liner and put it on the inside. In the engine compartment, and for that matter anywhere it gets hot and the mastic isn't sandwiched between other layers, it will fall off. As far as the firewall is concerned I'd do that inside the cabin, putting the mastic on the metal under the carpet underlayment.

[Alpinadrachten]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

If I was to do that I'd remove the wheel arch liner and put it on the inside.

What do you mean with wheel arch liner
Wheel off and remove inner cap...
Or from the inside of the car.

You say that it will fall off when hot.
I'm looking for colad

https://www.nonpaints.com/nl/colad-antidreunplaten-zelfklevend-8-stuks?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_ca mpaign=shopping%20feed&utm_content=free%20google%2 0shopping%20clicks&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAg9ur BhB_EiwAgw88mfKGi9mqyvkqeZ0r1lIIMEp1tTUd7DoAolaNym QgeynoJnUp2M5WnBoC3qIQAvD_BwE

They install it also on the inside of the door on the outer panel. You see more people do that.
But when you have a black car this is going to get hot also when the sun is shining...

Thanks for your feedback btw

[SirBiggles]

Love this thread, fully onboard with sound deadening.

Fwiw, I applied some of that dense sticky acoustic insulation to my E46 & MX5, and it worked wonders. I've found my F36 440 is super quiet compared to my M240, and it's so relaxing on long journeys.

I did see Joe Achilles say the the tourings are quite a bit louder than other models. I've not driven a BMW touring myself.

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by Alpinadrachten

What do you mean with wheel arch liner
Wheel off and remove inner cap...

That.

You say that it will fall off when hot.
I'm looking for colad

That looks like typical mastic. I lined the underside of my package shelves and it fell down with the first warm day. I had to use screws for added support. I did line my doors, between the door and door card, so it can't fall down.