01-03-2019, 03:49 PM | #23 |
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01-05-2019, 05:32 PM | #24 |
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Thank you Daggers! The instructional was excellent and helped me replace the front pads and rotors on my 2013 335i xDrive Sport Line. I went with Zimmerman blanks and Genuine BMW stock pads purchased from FCP Euro.
My rears will be next. I just need to find an equally good instructional for them. Cheers! |
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02-08-2019, 06:13 AM | #26 |
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02-11-2019, 05:58 PM | #28 | |
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Quote:
Since you installed the dimpled and slotted rotors have you encountered any humming noise from the wheels?? I've been reading alot about how the dimpled and slotted rotors have been making alot of noise for many people on the forum I recently installed some r1 concepts dimpled and slotted and they have been making this buzing/humming noise only when im driving. no noise while braking
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02-26-2019, 09:42 PM | #29 |
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I have 30k miles on the car and its squeeeling like crazy. This week the sensor for the front brakes went off...
Would it be weird to just replace the front brakes or should I do all 4? |
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03-03-2019, 11:48 PM | #30 |
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Hi Daggers,
Excellent post, I am new to owning a BMW so the info within will be very helpful, but I have lots exp driving, building and racing cars in Australia. I have purchased the genuine BMW rotors form FCU which should arrive tomorrow from the USA, looking forward to fitting them. I have gone for the Hawk pads, not the EBC, so will be interesting to see what they are like, as most of my racing was done using Hawk race pads(DTC60 and DTC70), but I have gone for the Performance Street ones as road driving is now my main use. |
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03-11-2019, 05:29 PM | #31 |
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Awesome instructions. I was looking for a youtube video first, but your descriptions were better than a Video!
I tackled this job last weekend. First time doing the Blue BMW brakes, so it took the entire Saturday afternoon ( I could have done this faster, but I took my time) The most important step in your directions was to make that tool out of screwdriver to push the pad retaining pins out. Tried first with a small flat head screwdriver followed by a small Philips screwdriver with no success. Finally made the tool by cutting the flat head of one of the small screwdriver with a Dremel and the pin came right out The rotors I bought were Zimmermann Slotted an Dimpled, so followed the brake bedding procedure came in the box. 15x (60mph to 30mph slow downs in 3 seconds) and then another 15 x (60mph to 15mph slowdowns in 5 seconds), leaving 3 minutes cool down between each braking. All is well now. Thanks again for the excellent write up!
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03-12-2019, 11:54 AM | #32 |
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Really well done, thank you! Excellent DIY!
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03-14-2019, 08:55 PM | #33 |
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If anyone knows of a good DIY for doing the single-piston rear brakes on an F30, please post a link. I have pads, rotors, and sensor ready to go and plan to tackle them at the end of the month.
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05-31-2019, 11:28 AM | #34 |
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Awesome DIY instructions! I used this a guide while changing my brakes and rotors this past weekend. I also painted my calipers since I was down in there
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06-08-2019, 01:50 PM | #35 |
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I would add that if you're in a place that uses salt on the roads, or bought a car from there, add a "BFH" to your supply list. A 4 or 8 pound engineer's hammer is a good start.
Both E90s I had previously needed this. In addition to cleaning the wheel hub face, I also used regular anti seize on the wheel hub when putting the rotor back on. I never ended up doing the same car twice, but the next person probably appreciated it! |
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06-10-2019, 11:50 PM | #36 |
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So all pads are the same size, the only difference the various trims ( M perf, M sport, etc ) is just the material they made of?
I got a regular 335i with the gray caliper - anyone try the Brembo NAO Non-Asbestos-Organic ECE-R90 Homologated pads? They got for a fraction of what the OEM pads go for. I just daily drive my car. |
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06-11-2019, 07:33 PM | #37 |
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According to an article on the Turner Motorsport site that I found helpful (Link), "For the front caliper, the brake pads are all the same. Even though BMW has different part numbers for the pads and for the calipers, the pads are all the same shape and size. Only the compound changes between part numbers."
On my 335i I stuck with the stock pads. The braking performance is perfectly good for a daily driver, the pads aren't too harsh on rotors, and the dusting isn't bad. I considered the M Sport pads but, based on some things I'd read, was concerned I'd be annoyed by the dusting that was reported. |
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06-23-2019, 09:50 PM | #38 |
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Just finished this on all four corners: Rotors, pads, pins, springs, and wear sensors. Getting the pins back in without damaging the finish is tricky. Thankfully, the damage is on the inside and therefore not visible. Note that the front pads are marked as inside/outside and slightly different. The front caliper bolts are 18mm. Get an 18mm 3/4 socket with a breaker bar to get them off. Don't be shy with cleaning the hubs. After hand scraping I bought a drill driven wheel bristle brush from HomeDepot that did a MUCH better job of removing rust. If you're a 2nd Amendment enthusiast your punches will do a great job removing the pins.
I need the torques of the front and rear caliper bolts as they're clearly different. Please reply if you have them. I'll post if I find them. I bought all original BMW M Sport (blue caliper) parts from FCPEuro using this guide: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...4-F36-BMW-435i From moving the car over the QuickJack to putting the QuickJack away took about eight hours for four corners. It's not a hard job, just a lot of work in tight spaces. If you're like me and buy hot cars planning to do the maintenance yourself, this is a good project. If you value your weekend, get an indy shop to do this. |
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06-24-2019, 12:59 AM | #39 |
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8 hours? Blimey. I replaced the rear pads on my F82 yesterday (both sides obviously) in under 30 minutes (inc new wear sensor)
What did you struggle with? Last edited by Daggers; 06-24-2019 at 01:07 AM.. |
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06-26-2019, 05:08 AM | #40 |
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I did mine recently. Fitted EBC yellow and TRW discs (slotted and dimpled)
I used almost the same procedure. The only differences was - I had to use some sandpaper to polish the surfaces top and bottom where the pads contact the caliper. These are machined surfaces. The brush would not get the hardened crud off. I used a dial micrometer to check the runout of the disc. Not essential, but good to know its OK. I also coded for m performance brakes to improve the bite. No squeal at all and I am very happy with the stopping power. There is some noise from the discs which can be heard with the window down only at lower speeds. I think its cause by air getting trapped in the grooves. And they look awesome. |
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06-26-2019, 07:54 PM | #41 |
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06-27-2019, 02:27 AM | #42 | |
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https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=764547 Although my car was factory fitted with msport brakes is was not coded for the mperformance set up. After fitting my EBC pads and mperformance discs, alowing for the run in period I VO coded SPBR. A definite difference on brake sensitivity, with a more powerful feeling. |
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07-03-2019, 08:16 AM | #43 |
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I am getting the warning for rear brakes maintenance and would like to change the pads and rotors this weekend.
I have a 328i xdrive in the luxury line and wondered what would be a good set of pads and rotors to order for this in Canada? I priced pads at Canadian Tire for $100 for the rear but they didn't have the wear sensor. Do you need to replace the wear sensor or is it dependent on whether it is worn out or not? I've done lots of brake changes on my Jetta and Journey, and have all the tools, just wondering on a good set of pads and rotors. |
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