03-24-2021, 02:21 PM | #1 |
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I did some googling and saw limited review on some things, long story short, 2014 335i 71k miles.
Background was a track prepped e36 I daily drove for awhile, solid subframe, poly diff mounts, poly engines and trans mounts, loved how insanely solid and connected that car felt; obviously the f30 is nowhere near that. Now the debate... St-xa coilovers in bound, poly trans mounts in bound (70a) to start. Debating vtt engine mount inserts, anyway, I want to tighten up the subframe and diff, I don't care about NVH as I said above, the e36 was driven daily for years. Debating powerflex black inserts to make my life easy, or should I drop the subframe and do solid subframe, 95a diff mounts and be one and done. The car won't see much if any track time in the near future, just really want to keep this a high power street build that doesn't feel like a Buick on the road. Make sense? Obviously inserts aren't going to be anything like a full bushing replacement, especially with something like aluminum or poly, but black inserts may be enough to take the slop out to my liking. My other plans are a diff lock down plate so maybe diff bushings aren't as critical for stability, opinions are encouraged. |
03-24-2021, 03:19 PM | #2 |
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I can't comment on the diff bushings or lockdown plate, but I do have the solid subframe mounts from bimmerworld.
Definitely removes a lot of rear-end slop, but with almost no NVH increase. Very expensive to have done by a shop though. I've avoided the diff bushing upgrades and lockdown plate because I heard it will increase NVH quite a bit. However the lockdown shouldn't be quite as noisy as stiffer bushings, and it's pretty easy to install. Edit: I think I just saw you in another thread talking about how you wouldn't mind more NVH - If that's the case, you should look into the diff bushing inserts. They would be pretty easy to install yourself!
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03-24-2021, 03:43 PM | #3 | |
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Ya that was probably me haha, I'm heavily debating solid subframe mounts; it's just such a pain in the ass to do, wondering if I can get 75d poly mounts to fit with a mallet and effort, I don't want to strip the subframe down to press solid mounts in, I was hoping the inserts would improve a lot of the slop to hold me over, the debate... lol I'm for sure going to atleast do inserts for the diff, with the lock down plate, at worst case, I would prefer bushings but really don't feel like inventing new words in the garage yet hahaha |
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03-24-2021, 05:05 PM | #4 |
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https://www.akgmotorsport.com/produc...-f22-2-series/
I used the aluminum versions of these in my e36, wondering if I could do a make shift threaded rod with large nuts and THICK washers to compress these into the subframe, I know these are as hard a bowling ball; but maybe do able |
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03-24-2021, 08:04 PM | #5 |
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get poly, use heat gun from harbor freight and heat up around each factory bushing for a few minutes and then used a large socket and the weight of the car to press them out (if you've read any DIYs you'll know what I'm talking about).
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03-24-2021, 08:09 PM | #6 | |
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03-24-2021, 08:28 PM | #7 | ||
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03-24-2021, 08:35 PM | #8 | |||
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03-25-2021, 11:58 AM | #9 |
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Changing out the subframe bushings will make the biggest difference in rear end slop cleaning. this is the one mod that surprised me the most...the response, the feel, the grip...its awesome. I went delrin and absolutely love it!! but I would def consider the AKGs for rear subframe. I rigged up a large gas pipe and cover with some threaded rod to remove the old ones...You can also burn them and then hammer them out.
The diff bushings are a different animal...i went with delrin units condor speed and while the product is good, the front diff bushings move easily which should not be the case. I am going to swap them out for powerflex race units because the front diff bushings are lipped front and rear so they can't move forward or backwards. |
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03-25-2021, 01:32 PM | #10 | |
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I plan to just lower the rear subframe as a unit 8-12 inches or so, I haven't seen how they mount up, if they're doable without pulling the diff, I'm trying to avoid popping the axles out, so I'm in the air if I do full bushing or inserts, if bushing can be done without pulling axles, I'll go that route. I got my burger rear diff brace coming, so that'll be a nice reinforcement to the unit. |
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03-25-2021, 02:45 PM | #11 |
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This discussion inspired me to reach out to 034, which offers a lineup of mounts for the E series bimmers, but nothing for the F series yet...
Here's the response I got: "We are currently developing a full line of products for the F30. This will likely be a rubber-based motor mount."
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03-25-2021, 05:14 PM | #12 | |
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03-25-2021, 05:21 PM | #13 |
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I would be choosing a transmission mount only, I probably wouldn't modify my engine mounts for a long time. Getting to them is a huge pain.
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03-25-2021, 05:34 PM | #14 | |
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I think rogue mounts fit our chassis but don't know for sure, they're solid rubber |
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03-26-2021, 04:40 PM | #15 | |
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03-26-2021, 04:44 PM | #16 | ||
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And good advice on the bushings with lips on them to prevent shifting, saves the frustration later |
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03-27-2021, 09:04 AM | #17 |
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03-29-2021, 10:49 AM | #18 | |
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The 95a diff bushings are out of stock, this brings a new question; since I'm using the diff lock down plate from bms, it mounts the diff to the subframe very robustly, do you think just up grading the front diff bushings will be plenty? Debating this one; I was in the air about diff inserts for the front bushings, since the lock down; but may just replace the fronts with 95a and be done. The rear mount looks like hell, wonder if the rear mount can be removed with diff in car if I pull the cover... |
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03-29-2021, 11:08 AM | #19 |
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The rear mount IS hell. Since you're doing the lockdown plate, I wouldn't bother. Do the fronts and the lockdown plate and you should be fine.
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03-29-2021, 11:50 AM | #20 |
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By design I think I'll be ok as well, haha, you think the rear is accessible if you remove the rear cover off the diff? Just for future if I end up needing to
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03-29-2021, 12:05 PM | #21 | |
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I had all the diff mounts replaced with OEM when I was trying to resolve my rear end vibration.
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Handling mods: Koni yellow - Eibach prokit - Millway street - M Performance LSD - M3 brakes - EBC bluestuff Exterior: Euro LCI tail lights - Shitty ECS CF spoiler - Chinese M performance diffuser Interior: Bavsound stage 1 and subs - custom trunk sub by Mike1327 |
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03-29-2021, 12:24 PM | #22 | ||
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