How to fix Wastegate rattle on 2012 328i?

Montaxx · 06-14-2017, 03:45 AM

Hey guys, my wastegate is rattling as hell on my 2012 328i.
It's pretty much annoying every time I let off the throttle.

Here's a picture:

at the pointed out marks the rod is rattling like hell.

I appreciate every type of help!

F30RiK · 06-14-2017, 11:41 AM

I have the same problem but only on cold start because the cotter pin is gone. Check if yours is still there

D041987 · 06-15-2017, 01:46 PM

Mostly all turbo's with internal gates rattle as the joints wear over time. You can try to loosen the nut by the actuator rod and adjust the L bracket that attaches to the actual rode either left or right to put some pressure on the flapper arm than tighten down on the thread. This can minimize the issue a little but eventually will wear on the joint a little more. If you are not loosing boost than that is OK and it something you are gonna have to deal with or take the turbo off and go to a import shop where they will need to rebuild that actuator rod with a new bushing etc. Cost will be around 300 range or depending on the shop charges.

Montaxx · 06-19-2017, 09:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by D041987

Mostly all turbo's with internal gates rattle as the joints wear over time. You can try to loosen the nut by the actuator rod and adjust the L bracket that attaches to the actual rode either left or right to put some pressure on the flapper arm than tighten down on the thread. This can minimize the issue a little but eventually will wear on the joint a little more. If you are not loosing boost than that is OK and it something you are gonna have to deal with or take the turbo off and go to a import shop where they will need to rebuild that actuator rod with a new bushing etc. Cost will be around 300 range or depending on the shop charges.

So you mean I should move the whole nuts a little down to tighten it a little like shown in my scrrenshot?

D041987 · 06-20-2017, 01:32 PM

Correct. But your rattle is most likely at the flapper arm where your 1st pic was that you blurred out. That entire bushing inside the turbo manifold is wearing down and if you grab that arm that the tension rod is connecting you will more than likely be able to see play moving up, down, left, right. This means your turbo is on it's way out as the bushing is wearing. How long it will last is unknown but you will eventually in a few years or sooner have sealing problems and you will have erratic boost spikes or low boost condition cause the flapper will not seat right/ close fully to build boost.

You can also shift the L bracket slightly up or down (left or Right) to put pressure on the Tension rod assembly to minimize the rattling at the flapper inside the turbo exhaust housing.

Montaxx · 06-21-2017, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by D041987

This means your turbo is on it's way out as the bushing is wearing.

My Turbo just got replaced 10.000km ago :/

Quote:

Originally Posted by D041987

You can also shift the L bracket slightly up or down (left or Right) to put pressure on the Tension rod assembly to minimize the rattling at the flapper inside the turbo exhaust housing.

Actually this is a really cool idea. Will definitly try!

Montaxx · 06-21-2017, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by F30RiK

I have the same problem but only on cold start because the cotter pin is gone. Check if yours is still there

Pin is still there

Montaxx · 06-22-2017, 04:18 AM

Well, no chance on changing the angle of the L-Bracket.
It's sitting there really tight.
I don't want to play with the screws because they're marked.
Is there any way?

D041987 · 06-22-2017, 03:11 PM

Unfortunately, no. Your flapper bearing inside the turbo is wearing down so it will always rattle than. Only way to change is to have it rebuilt. I would personally rebuild it rather than getting a new turbo as the new turbo will fail again cause they use cheap parts. Once you rebuilt, the parts will usually be stronger and you wont have the issue again for a long while.

Montaxx · 06-23-2017, 04:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by D041987

Unfortunately, no. Your flapper bearing inside the turbo is wearing down so it will always rattle than. Only way to change is to have it rebuilt. I would personally rebuild it rather than getting a new turbo as the new turbo will fail again cause they use cheap parts. Once you rebuilt, the parts will usually be stronger and you wont have the issue again for a long while.

I still got warranty and don't want to loose it. That's the problem there.
BMW doesn't like it when people touch mechanics themselfes

D041987 · 06-23-2017, 01:40 PM

If you have warranty than go complain to BMW and say you felt the arm wiggle and want it replaced. You complain enough they will replace it.

Montaxx · 05-18-2018, 01:45 AM

I'll bring this up again.
Any chances to fix this?

snake941 · 08-30-2018, 01:17 PM

i have that problem too
Have you fixed yet?

Solidjake · 08-30-2018, 02:22 PM

I replaced my wastegate actuator because it was not moving properly. New OEM unit doesn't have the black plastic near those two nuts. DO NOT MOVE THOSE NUTS. Doing so you are changing the tension on the arm which affects the amount of boost. You turn it you can damage the turbo. The rattle problem lies where the arm goes to lever that comes out of the turbos wastegate. When I do my downpipe I will check to see how much play there is.

One thing that is interesting... that I cannot figure out and I want you guys to test this out for me. Leave the car in comfort with your windows down, see if you have the rattle when driving. Then drive the same but in sport mode and let me know if the rattle goes away.

I have a rattle at 1500-2000 rpm in comfort but GONE in sport same RPM range. I think the sport mode tightening up the actuator/wastegate arm and it keeps it tight preventing it from closing all the way and letting it rattle. If you guys have the same then it is most definitely the wastegate inside of the turbo...

rjd_F30 · 08-30-2018, 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Solidjake

When I do my downpipe I will check to see how much play there is.=

You say you'll check for play when you do your downpipe install... what exactly are you checking? I know there is a flap inside of the housing that can be easily accessed when removing the downpipe from under the car. Is that what you're checking for play, I don't know what it's called. Anyway, when I did my downpipe, that little flap had lots of play. Is that bad?

Solidjake · 08-30-2018, 03:40 PM

rjdnyy224 The play was going side to side?

Check this out.

nikaslash · 09-11-2018, 11:37 AM

Hey guys, i cannot find anywhere wastegate flapper arm for my bmw 528 f10 n20. Can you please give the link ? Where can i buy it? Is the one for n54 compatible with my car?
Thx in advance

Solidjake · 09-11-2018, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nikaslash

Hey guys, i cannot find anywhere wastegate flapper arm for my bmw 528 f10 n20. Can you please give the link ? Where can i buy it? Is the one for n54 compatible with my car?
Thx in advance

More details on the car please. Since you're in Georgia the specific year/month makes a difference. If you can post the last 7 of the vin that would pinpoint the exact model/region/which side the steering is on. Thanks

Solidjake · 09-11-2018, 02:12 PM

nikaslash A quick look on www.realoem.com you might have the pneumatic wastegate

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_4786

nikaslash · 09-13-2018, 03:18 PM

Thank you for reply last digits of VIN: dw16382. 2012 july i guess its an American model, i exported it from US. This is what i need. Im searching for few days and all can find is flapper arm for n54 not n20. I really need help, car is in service waiting for this part

Montaxx · 10-01-2018, 04:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Solidjake

One thing that is interesting... that I cannot figure out and I want you guys to test this out for me. Leave the car in comfort with your windows down, see if you have the rattle when driving. Then drive the same but in sport mode and let me know if the rattle goes away.

I have a rattle at 1500-2000 rpm in comfort but GONE in sport same RPM range. I think the sport mode tightening up the actuator/wastegate arm and it keeps it tight preventing it from closing all the way and letting it rattle. If you guys have the same then it is most definitely the wastegate inside of the turbo...

Can confirm this. Most rattle is in Eco and Comfort. In Sport it's almost gone.

Solidjake · 10-01-2018, 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Montaxx

Can confirm this. Most rattle is in Eco and Comfort. In Sport it's almost gone.

Damn so you have the same thing.

Looking at the bootmod3 dashboard in sport the car has more PSI/boost so I assume the wastegate is open? Then in eco/comfort there is almost no PSI so I assume the wastegate is closed. With it being worn out and in the closed position it has that play and rattles. Having it in sport mode keeps the wastegate open a bit so it's not touching the turbo housing.... what a shame. Looks like we might need new turbos

06-14-2017, 03:45 AM	#1
Montaxx Private First Class 38 Rep 105 Posts Drives: F30 328i Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Germany iTrader: (0)	How to fix Wastegate rattle on 2012 328i? Hey guys, my wastegate is rattling as hell on my 2012 328i. It's pretty much annoying every time I let off the throttle. Here's a picture: at the pointed out marks the rod is rattling like hell. I appreciate every type of help!
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06-14-2017, 11:41 AM	#2
F30RiK Lieutenant 128 Rep 403 Posts Drives: 13' 335 xdrive M-sport 6 Speed Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: QC, LAval iTrader: (1)	I have the same problem but only on cold start because the cotter pin is gone. Check if yours is still there
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06-15-2017, 01:46 PM	#3
D041987 Big Turbo Boys N Girls 327 Rep 579 Posts Drives: 2012 328I 6speed Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Lynnwood, WA iTrader: (0)	Mostly all turbo's with internal gates rattle as the joints wear over time. You can try to loosen the nut by the actuator rod and adjust the L bracket that attaches to the actual rode either left or right to put some pressure on the flapper arm than tighten down on the thread. This can minimize the issue a little but eventually will wear on the joint a little more. If you are not loosing boost than that is OK and it something you are gonna have to deal with or take the turbo off and go to a import shop where they will need to rebuild that actuator rod with a new bushing etc. Cost will be around 300 range or depending on the shop charges.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-20-2017, 01:32 PM	#5
D041987 Big Turbo Boys N Girls 327 Rep 579 Posts Drives: 2012 328I 6speed Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Lynnwood, WA iTrader: (0)	Correct. But your rattle is most likely at the flapper arm where your 1st pic was that you blurred out. That entire bushing inside the turbo manifold is wearing down and if you grab that arm that the tension rod is connecting you will more than likely be able to see play moving up, down, left, right. This means your turbo is on it's way out as the bushing is wearing. How long it will last is unknown but you will eventually in a few years or sooner have sealing problems and you will have erratic boost spikes or low boost condition cause the flapper will not seat right/ close fully to build boost. You can also shift the L bracket slightly up or down (left or Right) to put pressure on the Tension rod assembly to minimize the rattling at the flapper inside the turbo exhaust housing. Last edited by D041987; 06-20-2017 at 01:55 PM..
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06-22-2017, 04:18 AM	#8
Montaxx Private First Class 38 Rep 105 Posts Drives: F30 328i Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Germany iTrader: (0)	Well, no chance on changing the angle of the L-Bracket. It's sitting there really tight. I don't want to play with the screws because they're marked. Is there any way?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-22-2017, 03:11 PM	#9
D041987 Big Turbo Boys N Girls 327 Rep 579 Posts Drives: 2012 328I 6speed Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Lynnwood, WA iTrader: (0)	Unfortunately, no. Your flapper bearing inside the turbo is wearing down so it will always rattle than. Only way to change is to have it rebuilt. I would personally rebuild it rather than getting a new turbo as the new turbo will fail again cause they use cheap parts. Once you rebuilt, the parts will usually be stronger and you wont have the issue again for a long while.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-23-2017, 01:40 PM	#11
D041987 Big Turbo Boys N Girls 327 Rep 579 Posts Drives: 2012 328I 6speed Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Lynnwood, WA iTrader: (0)	If you have warranty than go complain to BMW and say you felt the arm wiggle and want it replaced. You complain enough they will replace it.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-18-2018, 01:45 AM	#12
Montaxx Private First Class 38 Rep 105 Posts Drives: F30 328i Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Germany iTrader: (0)	I'll bring this up again. Any chances to fix this?
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08-30-2018, 01:17 PM	#13
snake941 Registered 0 Rep 1 Posts Drives: f30 320ix Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Toronto iTrader: (0)	i have that problem too Have you fixed yet?
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08-30-2018, 02:22 PM	#14
Solidjake ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 945 Rep 1,762 Posts Drives: '13 328i Msport 6MT Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: NYC/SNJ iTrader: (2)	I replaced my wastegate actuator because it was not moving properly. New OEM unit doesn't have the black plastic near those two nuts. DO NOT MOVE THOSE NUTS. Doing so you are changing the tension on the arm which affects the amount of boost. You turn it you can damage the turbo. The rattle problem lies where the arm goes to lever that comes out of the turbos wastegate. When I do my downpipe I will check to see how much play there is. One thing that is interesting... that I cannot figure out and I want you guys to test this out for me. Leave the car in comfort with your windows down, see if you have the rattle when driving. Then drive the same but in sport mode and let me know if the rattle goes away. I have a rattle at 1500-2000 rpm in comfort but GONE in sport same RPM range. I think the sport mode tightening up the actuator/wastegate arm and it keeps it tight preventing it from closing all the way and letting it rattle. If you guys have the same then it is most definitely the wastegate inside of the turbo... __________________ Tensioner/belt DIY \| Side skirt extension DIY Apex SM-10/DWS06+ \| 400m/X-ice Xi3 \| Injen Exhaust \| Stoptech SS Lines \| 335 Front Brakes Hawk HPS 5.0 \| RBF600 \| ER Charge Pipes \| Wagner Evo Comp 2 FMIC
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08-30-2018, 03:40 PM	#16
Solidjake ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 945 Rep 1,762 Posts Drives: '13 328i Msport 6MT Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: NYC/SNJ iTrader: (2)	rjdnyy224 The play was going side to side? Check this out. __________________ Tensioner/belt DIY \| Side skirt extension DIY Apex SM-10/DWS06+ \| 400m/X-ice Xi3 \| Injen Exhaust \| Stoptech SS Lines \| 335 Front Brakes Hawk HPS 5.0 \| RBF600 \| ER Charge Pipes \| Wagner Evo Comp 2 FMIC
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09-11-2018, 11:37 AM	#17
nikaslash Registered 0 Rep 2 Posts Drives: BMW e90 328i 2008 Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Tbilisi, Georgia iTrader: (0)	Hey guys, i cannot find anywhere wastegate flapper arm for my bmw 528 f10 n20. Can you please give the link ? Where can i buy it? Is the one for n54 compatible with my car? Thx in advance
	Appreciate 0 Quote

09-11-2018, 02:12 PM	#19
Solidjake ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 945 Rep 1,762 Posts Drives: '13 328i Msport 6MT Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: NYC/SNJ iTrader: (2)	nikaslash A quick look on www.realoem.com you might have the pneumatic wastegate https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_4786 __________________ Tensioner/belt DIY \| Side skirt extension DIY Apex SM-10/DWS06+ \| 400m/X-ice Xi3 \| Injen Exhaust \| Stoptech SS Lines \| 335 Front Brakes Hawk HPS 5.0 \| RBF600 \| ER Charge Pipes \| Wagner Evo Comp 2 FMIC
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09-13-2018, 03:18 PM	#20
nikaslash Registered 0 Rep 2 Posts Drives: BMW e90 328i 2008 Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Tbilisi, Georgia iTrader: (0)	Thank you for reply last digits of VIN: dw16382. 2012 july i guess its an American model, i exported it from US. This is what i need. Im searching for few days and all can find is flapper arm for n54 not n20. I really need help, car is in service waiting for this part Attached Images Last edited by nikaslash; 09-13-2018 at 03:33 PM..
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