[reighnman]

Originally Posted by flipporabasta

Thanks. Heard otherwise in another forum. Though they were refering to a 2 series.

I did this over the weekend it was the most annoying easy install I've ever had to do..

Biggest issue for me was finding a good place for the lower t-bolt and making sure the elbow/t-bolts didn't rub against the steering joint.

Taking it out through the top on the ix was definitely easier.

[ETexas335]

Anyone using the VSFR CP vs the ER? The VSFR is a bit less expensive and they appear to be similar design (how to you screw up a CP?). Your thoughts?

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by ETexas335

Anyone using the VSFR CP vs the ER? The VSFR is a bit less expensive and they appear to be similar design (how to you screw up a CP?). Your thoughts?

Fitment, reliability is the same

Evolution Racewerks finish quality is better, especially their anodized black finish.

Here are 2 pics to get an idea and decide whether it is worth the extra cost

VRSF


Evolution Racewerks

[ETexas335]

Thanks!

[Tiago@VRSF]

Plenty of customers prefer our OEM looking wrinkle black powder coat finish over the glossy black ER uses. The finish is 100% subjective, some customers prefer wrinkle finish, others prefer glossy.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by ETexas335

Anyone using the VSFR CP vs the ER? The VSFR is a bit less expensive and they appear to be similar design (how to you screw up a CP?). Your thoughts?

It's just a matter of finish and budget for most. Others prefer brand loyalty in their choice.

They both fit and work as intended.

[ETexas335]

Installed my VSFR CP over the weekend... boost is back! And yes, I kinda like the wrinkle black look. Part was hard to slide over both throttle body and IC but I assume it's good for that to be a tight seal. Thanks!

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by ETexas335

Installed my VSFR CP over the weekend... boost is back! And yes, I kinda like the wrinkle black look. Part was hard to slide over both throttle body and IC but I assume it's good for that to be a tight seal. Thanks!

Congrats

[1QuikWS6]

When installing my ER CP on 435 I also found the following very helpful in many ways (not necessary, but made R&R MUCH easier):

• Remove airbox
• Remove plastic shield around large wire junction block on DS strut tower
• Totally remove the hard plastic line for tranny signal from oem CP+airbox+bracket connection = a small 'T' section of the pipe removed but made lots of room
• Remove sensor from CP before removing CP (didn't bother to disconnect wire plug, just removed entire sensor & left plugged in)
• Remove now useless little bracket/rubber bushing that oem CP was attached to (no longer needed)-tie wrapped small wire loom that was attached to bracket to adjacent wire loom
• Pull CP up and out from top, twisting top of CP CW as I went. At one point it was also helpful in speeding things up to get back under car and using a wide bladed pry bar - push the CP back toward firewall whilst my wife pulled CP from topside

Took just a couple xtra minutes to do above but having all that out of the way left a very large area to work with when twisting CP out & installing clamps/silicone hose

You CAN do this by yourself, but I did get a leetle help from the wife during CP removal as I mentioned & during FMIC install to get the rubber/plastic diverter plate along front edge of FMIC pulled out of way as I slid the intercooler up into place.

Total time from pulling up on ramps/installing ER CP, ER TIC pipe, AA FMIC/putting everything up top engine back together/down off ramps/tools put away was 5hr 23min (that TIC pipe was a real beatch on xdrive & took longest time of any operation by far )

[Cove1104]

Sorry if this isn't the right thread but I need help! New guy here just got my 2014 335i so sorry if this is a stupid question or wrong place to post. I want to add boost but of course b4 I'm going to change the charge pipe to the ER one then I noticed there's also a TIC charge pipe. Do I need to get both set ups?? PLEASE HELP! Thanks in advance!

[dr.roro]

Skip the TIC pipe

[Cove1104]

Originally Posted by dr.roro

Skip the TIC pipe

Thanks Dr. Roro,
Looked around, heard the same. Thanks for the quick response.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by Cove1104

Sorry if this isn't the right thread but I need help! New guy here just got my 2014 335i so sorry if this is a stupid question or wrong place to post. I want to add boost but of course b4 I'm going to change the charge pipe to the ER one then I noticed there's also a TIC charge pipe. Do I need to get both set ups?? PLEASE HELP! Thanks in advance!

You don't need it right away, it's usually one of those things purchase after everything else to improve overall efficiency of the charge system, it's not a common failure point like the main charge pipe is.

[Cove1104]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

You don't need it right away, it's usually one of those things purchase after everything else to improve overall efficiency of the charge system, it's not a common failure point like the main charge pipe is.

Thanks Jeff! That's what I was thinking after taking a look around. Glad I got some more clarification from you guys. It's much appreciated

[dvaz]

Sorry to bump this thread, but i am about to do this and im reading / watching plenty of videos.

Seems pretty straight forward, but from what I read RWD is easier to install than AWD. Just wondering why is that? Because of more space to maneuver or the size is different.

2) Seems like most of the videos (and the official guide) tell you to pry of the clips, but in reality it seems like they're to make your life easier, aka is quick disconnect?

[exE36M3]

What 4 years later and I had the same thing happen.
The plastic is SUPER brittle. In my case it broke at the T fitting AND the old OEM plastic charge pipe.

The dealer don't all stock it. So it's a 2 day special order from some warehouse.

Just adding to this thread to mentally pretty people for this.

Originally Posted by Sandmansc

ER CP Installed. 3 hours.
Problem.

Note: Could be that my mechanic cracked the part.

But.

I left the shop and shortly after the engine ran rough and I have an engine light on. Also. My turbo appears to be out as the car feels like my old 07' 328i.

I went straight back and he showed me that a hose has popped off and is cracked. He's not saying he didn't do it but the hose connected to the intake to the CP is cracked in half.

I'm headed to see if I can find the part tomorrow.

Anyone know what this part is officially called ? Part #?


Thanks!

[ActiveHybrid3Guy]

Mine busted at throttle body, 53k on ActiveHybrid 3 with jb4 stage 1 for last 1000 miles. Removed jb4, cleared codes, dealer (other than my normal) said 3 different times that it was not covered under my platinum warranty. They saw nothing indicating a tuner was installed. I'm on vacation with the car, 400 miles from my dealer. I contacted my dealer who said the part is 100% covered then I fought back and forth with the dealer out here. Ended up getting it replaced under warranty finally. Day to get the part and half a day to replace it. Most people on here say you don't need to upgrade charge pipe if only running stage 1, but I'm pretty convinced the jb4 is the culprit.
I have an aftermarket CP at home, didn't do me much good 400 miles away though. Wondering how crucial it is to replace the charge pipe. I HAVE to have the jb4 on my AH3, COMPLETELY changes the car. Gonna drive back home with no jb4 and not looking forward to it. Dreading putting on the CP only to have to remove every time I take it in for service or warranty work. I have about 19 months of warranty left. What do u guys think?

[808Ray335i]

I had an ER CP installed by a local Bmw (non dealer) shop. Install took about 2hrs. They said how the CP is routed made the swap a little hard. Good thing I didn't attempt it myself! LOL
They also said the ER CP is well built. Stage 1 here I come!!

[checkedOut]

Great post! Just changed out my CP and FMIC today, but also cracked my oil pan...Trying to start new thread for input

[TwantoFamilio]

Bumping an old thread....
Curious what type of screw is in this step "Remove plastic shield around large wire junction block on DS strut tower".

Mine is all rusted and can't tell if it is a hex or torx....guessin torx, but i cannot tell at all. Thanks.

[okla_m2c]

Reviving an old thread here.. Just got the ER CP on today but I'm not confident on the fitment/install. Like many of those before me, I pulled the stock CP out from the top (I have an AWD). Getting the ER CP in was slightly easier.. but the hard part was making sure the silicon connect was correctly spaced out between the upper and lower portions of the CP. Questions:

1. The silicon connector between the upper and lower CP seems to sit a little lower on the upper portion of the CP than I want it to. I tried shoving it up but with the tight fit of an AWD, I wasn't able to make that much progress. Near the back of the pipe (where it starts to curve), there may be a ~.5 - .75 inch gap between the lip of where the CP widens. I decided to just go ahead and tighten the clamp down as much as I could. Was able to get my hand in the back to feel around and confirmed that the connector is at least over both pipes. Will the fitment be an issue? It shouldn't be able to pop out here, no?

2. I'm having difficulty getting the lower portion of the CP fully seeded into the stock FMIC. While it's really close, the C clip isn't completely flush when it's on, and therefore tells me that it needs to go down some more. With this install being somewhat of a PITA, any advice on how I can shove it down further without taking everything apart and reinstalling? I was thinking of taking off the FMIC and lubing up the o-ring then throwing the FMIC back on.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by dookayy

Reviving an old thread here.. Just got the ER CP on today but I'm not confident on the fitment/install. Like many of those before me, I pulled the stock CP out from the top (I have an AWD). Getting the ER CP in was slightly easier.. but the hard part was making sure the silicon connect was correctly spaced out between the upper and lower portions of the CP. Questions:

1. The silicon connector between the upper and lower CP seems to sit a little lower on the upper portion of the CP than I want it to. I tried shoving it up but with the tight fit of an AWD, I wasn't able to make that much progress. Near the back of the pipe (where it starts to curve), there may be a ~.5 - .75 inch gap between the lip of where the CP widens. I decided to just go ahead and tighten the clamp down as much as I could. Was able to get my hand in the back to feel around and confirmed that the connector is at least over both pipes. Will the fitment be an issue? It shouldn't be able to pop out here, no?

2. I'm having difficulty getting the lower portion of the CP fully seeded into the stock FMIC. While it's really close, the C clip isn't completely flush when it's on, and therefore tells me that it needs to go down some more. With this install being somewhat of a PITA, any advice on how I can shove it down further without taking everything apart and reinstalling? I was thinking of taking off the FMIC and lubing up the o-ring then throwing the FMIC back on.

1. Did you install the coupler with maximum length on the lower portion first, before installing the lower portion? This gives you as much room as possible to work with on the upper portion. Generally speaking, as long as there is enough silicone over the pipe such that the clamp is over the silicone/pipe fully (and not like hanging over the edge, its fine.

2. Not sure what you mean by completely flush - the C clip isnt all the way in? Its usually either in, or its not, since it sits in the groove.

I removed and resinstalled my IC+CP (and later TIC) at least 4 times. Here's what i would normally do (after test fitting CP to IC and CP to TB separately to make sure they fit as expected).

1. Put silicone coupler onto lower CP half leaving you the max length possible for the top part. Tighten the clamp for the bottom half fully now. You want to go just enough that you can get the clamp over the lip on the bottom half.

2. Feed the lower part of the CP up from the bottom roughly in place, then lift the IC into place, attach the TIC, and bolt the IC into place.

3. Loosely fit the lower part of the CP so its just generally lined up but not all the way clipped

4. Get the top half of the CP roughly into place so its lined up with the TB but not clipped and lined up/inside the silicone but not clamped.

5. Clip the lower part of the CP onto the IC, prying on the frame carefully (to push CP down) if you need to (only needed if its a really tight fit). Yes, you can use a small amount of motor oil on the Oring and the IC conection; infact thats recommended so you dont mess up the Oring. The key is to get it on evenly around all sides at the same time; if its crooked at all it will have a lot more resistance. Clip it if it doesnt automatically clip when it goes on far enough.

6. Move up top and clip the top half onto the TB

7. You basically have no more movement except the 'swivel' of the top half on the TB, so orient that correctly with the bottom half so the coupler is straight and maximizes the amount the silicone goes on the top half. Tight clamp on top half and youre done.

If you dont want to start over, you can start at step 5 basically. But the most important part about step 1 is that its easier to setup the silicone on the bottom half for maximum length and perfect orientation when the CP is out of the car in your hand. Installing the coupler on both halves once they are already in the car is probably the worst way to make sure its lined up correctly on both sides. If you set it perfectly on one side first (with it outside the car so you can tell), assuming the CP is manufactured correctly, this basically ensures you can't get the other half wrong.