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      09-21-2021, 09:11 PM   #1
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Purchasing a 2014 335i 6mt, concerns

Hey guys,

Was wondering if you guys could give me your two cents on what to look for when purchasing a f30 pre lci n55. I'm a carmax employee and found a 2014 with 62k miles on another stores wholesale lot and it will be arriving within the next week or so. I've owned two f30s before but both n26 and both automatic with the ZF. This will be my first manual transmission car and I understand that there have been issues with the 1-2 synchro in the ZF manual unit in these cars.

On that note, what are some things to look out for to see if the transmission does have issues? Moreover, if the manual unit doesn't have these synchro issues, is it possible for it to ever develop in the future? Through our own appraisals there were no announcements, but I want to prepare for what to look for on the vehicle when it arrives. Any help is welcomed.

Thanks!
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      09-21-2021, 10:38 PM   #2
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Hey,

I've got a 2015 335i X-drive with a 6mt. You definitely want to check if the transmission grinds or completely won't complete the 1 - 2 shift. If the previous owner constantly drag raced and abused the transmission, it could definitely have extra wear that could result in problems developing later.

The other thing to consider is if you intend to mod the car. From my research it seemed that the 6mt is pretty much at its torque rating with the 335i. That's probably why with the M Performance Package II, the ECU re-map limits torque in 1st and 2nd to 320 lb-ft, but allows 335 lb-ft in the other 4 gears. Any mods adding boost will pretty much exceed the transmission's torque rating. Even though the transmission won't fail immediately, it would likely only be a matter of time before symptoms of a failing transmission started becoming apparent.
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      09-22-2021, 12:20 AM   #3
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I'll throw in the alternate view point. I had a 14 335 with 6mt and now a 16 340 with 6mt. Both shifted quite well and much better than the myriad of other manual transmission bmws I have owned. I change my fluid in the trans every 25k miles. It's not expensive and easy enough to diy. I tried my go to RedLine fluid for the first change in my 335 and it shifted a little rougher so I drained it and went back to the bmw fluid and it was super smooth again. So with the 340 I have stuck with the bmw stuff.

I say check it out before buying and if it is smooth once warmed up then it's probably fine. Change the fluid for piece of mind.
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      09-22-2021, 02:58 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by E30M CW View Post
Hey,

I've got a 2015 335i X-drive with a 6mt. You definitely want to check if the transmission grinds or completely won't complete the 1 - 2 shift. If the previous owner constantly drag raced and abused the transmission, it could definitely have extra wear that could result in problems developing later.

The other thing to consider is if you intend to mod the car. From my research it seemed that the 6mt is pretty much at its torque rating with the 335i. That's probably why with the M Performance Package II, the ECU re-map limits torque in 1st and 2nd to 320 lb-ft, but allows 335 lb-ft in the other 4 gears. Any mods adding boost will pretty much exceed the transmission's torque rating. Even though the transmission won't fail immediately, it would likely only be a matter of time before symptoms of a failing transmission started becoming apparent.
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Originally Posted by E30M CW View Post
Hey,

I've got a 2015 335i X-drive with a 6mt. You definitely want to check if the transmission grinds or completely won't complete the 1 - 2 shift. If the previous owner constantly drag raced and abused the transmission, it could definitely have extra wear that could result in problems developing later.

The other thing to consider is if you intend to mod the car. From my research it seemed that the 6mt is pretty much at its torque rating with the 335i. That's probably why with the M Performance Package II, the ECU re-map limits torque in 1st and 2nd to 320 lb-ft, but allows 335 lb-ft in the other 4 gears. Any mods adding boost will pretty much exceed the transmission's torque rating. Even though the transmission won't fail immediately, it would likely only be a matter of time before symptoms of a failing transmission started becoming apparent.
Hey man really appreciate the response. I guess I'm a little worried as to how I can notice as this will be my first manual car, but I think it should be obvious. As for tuning wise have you dabbled in getting a tune at all? I'm kind of turned off by tunes after I had some issues with bm3. I've heard mhd is another great option for tunes but am more leaning to either the mppk or just running stock as I'm sure it'll still feel faster than the n26.
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      09-22-2021, 03:00 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by therealm3 View Post
I'll throw in the alternate view point. I had a 14 335 with 6mt and now a 16 340 with 6mt. Both shifted quite well and much better than the myriad of other manual transmission bmws I have owned. I change my fluid in the trans every 25k miles. It's not expensive and easy enough to diy. I tried my go to RedLine fluid for the first change in my 335 and it shifted a little rougher so I drained it and went back to the bmw fluid and it was super smooth again. So with the 340 I have stuck with the bmw stuff.

I say check it out before buying and if it is smooth once warmed up then it's probably fine. Change the fluid for piece of mind.
This is good to hear. Hoping to have an issue free experience as I'm really excited to be hopping into a manual for the first time. Have you guys done the clutch stop or anything like that?
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      09-22-2021, 03:30 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by therealm3 View Post
I'll throw in the alternate view point. I had a 14 335 with 6mt and now a 16 340 with 6mt. Both shifted quite well and much better than the myriad of other manual transmission bmws I have owned. I change my fluid in the trans every 25k miles. It's not expensive and easy enough to diy. I tried my go to RedLine fluid for the first change in my 335 and it shifted a little rougher so I drained it and went back to the bmw fluid and it was super smooth again. So with the 340 I have stuck with the bmw stuff.

I say check it out before buying and if it is smooth once warmed up then it's probably fine. Change the fluid for piece of mind.
I also have the opportunity to get a similarly equipped 2014 with 53k miles but it is an 8AT, do you guys ever regret getting the 6mt? This will be my first manual so I'm a little nervous about having a manual car as a daily driver.
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      09-22-2021, 07:23 AM   #7
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I also have the opportunity to get a similarly equipped 2014 with 53k miles but it is an 8AT, do you guys ever regret getting the 6mt? This will be my first manual so I'm a little nervous about having a manual car as a daily driver.
Personally, I have zero regrets with having a manual as a daily driver. For me, it is more engaging and fun to drive when I am blazing through the countryside and it gives me something to do when I am in city traffic. I have had manual and automatics (both BMW and other brands) and vastly prefer the manual for the reasons stated.

I've never had any transmission issues with wither autos or manuals and I service them regularly and fanatically.

All that said, it is up to you. If you love shifting for yourself no matter the drive, get the manual. If you like shifting but also are worried about traffic, fatigue, or anything else, get the auto. Ofc, ymmv.
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      09-22-2021, 10:48 AM   #8
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I'm 31 now, I got my then-new GTI in a manual days after I turned 21. I had periodically driven stick in the months leading up to delivery of the VW and they were often filled with anxiety, especially on a hill. I cheated because it came with hill-hold (which my F32 has too) so I could focus on launching off instead of rolling into the car behind me.

No regrets from my end, but I've been lucky to be healthy without major leg or back problems that would hinder me from enjoying driving a manual. And I've found that it helps keep me more aware when I'm tired.

Each car is different and I find the BMW pretty easy to modulate but it takes some practise to understand the catch point of the clutch and how much throttle to give it for a proper start and/or shift.
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      09-22-2021, 03:56 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f30hobbes View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by therealm3 View Post
I'll throw in the alternate view point. I had a 14 335 with 6mt and now a 16 340 with 6mt. Both shifted quite well and much better than the myriad of other manual transmission bmws I have owned. I change my fluid in the trans every 25k miles. It's not expensive and easy enough to diy. I tried my go to RedLine fluid for the first change in my 335 and it shifted a little rougher so I drained it and went back to the bmw fluid and it was super smooth again. So with the 340 I have stuck with the bmw stuff.

I say check it out before buying and if it is smooth once warmed up then it's probably fine. Change the fluid for piece of mind.
This is good to hear. Hoping to have an issue free experience as I'm really excited to be hopping into a manual for the first time. Have you guys done the clutch stop or anything like that?
No clutch stop for me. I kick around the idea of removing the cdv but I have gotten used to the clutch and don't feel I "need" to do it. I am sure it would be better but I don't know if it's worth the effort seeing I would diy.
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      09-23-2021, 11:32 PM   #10
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I've driven manuals ever since I got my license, and I've never even considered driving an automatic because I find them boring and offer you so much less control over the car in spirited driving or adverse conditions. A car with DCT might be different, but anything with a torque converter is a complete non-starter for me.

My other car has a Getrag 265 5mt, and it's a fantastic transmission, especially once you get the engine on cam. The 6mt in the 335i is nowhere near as nice, although shifting with it is much nicer now that I've removed the CDV, but I still have absolutely no regrets driving a 6mt instead of the 8at.

My car has the M Performance Package II, but beyond that I've not done any tuning to it.
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      09-24-2021, 08:56 AM   #11
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The 6MT in the F30 is definitely not the most robust unit, but there are plenty of 6MT cars with 120k+ miles with no issues. Then there are cars that need a new trans at 50k miles. Seems to be luck of the draw. My transmission lost reverse around 85k miles, but I never had problems with any forward gears. Thankfully my car has an extended warranty that covered 90% of the cost of a replacement reman transmission. Since getting it replaced, I (probably unnecessarily) double clutch up shifts until the car is warmed up to give the synchros a break, and it gives me some peace of mind that I'm being nice to the car. That said, I 100% never regretted or will regret getting the manual, even given the decreased dependability compared to the 8AT. It's just so much more fun than an auto.

To answer your question, just because it doesn't have synchro issues now doesn't mean it won't develop them in the future. If you're worried about it, buy the car, change the fluid ASAP, and treat it nicely. Chances are you'll be fine.
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      09-24-2021, 08:49 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E30M CW View Post
I've driven manuals ever since I got my license, and I've never even considered driving an automatic because I find them boring and offer you so much less control over the car in spirited driving or adverse conditions. A car with DCT might be different, but anything with a torque converter is a complete non-starter for me.

My other car has a Getrag 265 5mt, and it's a fantastic transmission, especially once you get the engine on cam. The 6mt in the 335i is nowhere near as nice, although shifting with it is much nicer now that I've removed the CDV, but I still have absolutely no regrets driving a 6mt instead of the 8at.

My car has the M Performance Package II, but beyond that I've not done any tuning to it.
Good to know, it will be a fun experience getting to learn but am still a little worried about the reliability I guess.
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      09-24-2021, 08:51 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by rjd_F30 View Post
The 6MT in the F30 is definitely not the most robust unit, but there are plenty of 6MT cars with 120k+ miles with no issues. Then there are cars that need a new trans at 50k miles. Seems to be luck of the draw. My transmission lost reverse around 85k miles, but I never had problems with any forward gears. Thankfully my car has an extended warranty that covered 90% of the cost of a replacement reman transmission. Since getting it replaced, I (probably unnecessarily) double clutch up shifts until the car is warmed up to give the synchros a break, and it gives me some peace of mind that I'm being nice to the car. That said, I 100% never regretted or will regret getting the manual, even given the decreased dependability compared to the 8AT. It's just so much more fun than an auto.

To answer your question, just because it doesn't have synchro issues now doesn't mean it won't develop them in the future. If you're worried about it, buy the car, change the fluid ASAP, and treat it nicely. Chances are you'll be fine.
Thanks for the reply! If you don't mind me asking what warranty company did you go with? And do you use the redline transmission fluid? Also I may sound like a real newbie here but what is a double clutch upshift? The car should be arriving from another carmax store in about a week and I am really excited, really hoping there are no shifting issues.
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      09-24-2021, 11:55 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f30hobbes View Post
Hey guys,

Was wondering if you guys could give me your two cents on what to look for when purchasing a f30 pre lci n55. I'm a carmax employee and found a 2014 with 62k miles on another stores wholesale lot and it will be arriving within the next week or so. I've owned two f30s before but both n26 and both automatic with the ZF. This will be my first manual transmission car and I understand that there have been issues with the 1-2 synchro in the ZF manual unit in these cars.

On that note, what are some things to look out for to see if the transmission does have issues? Moreover, if the manual unit doesn't have these synchro issues, is it possible for it to ever develop in the future? Through our own appraisals there were no announcements, but I want to prepare for what to look for on the vehicle when it arrives. Any help is welcomed.

Thanks!
Any particular reason why they're wholesaling this vehicle and not trying to retail it? Clean Carfax? With how the market is right now, I'm actually surprised they're not trying to retail a car like this.
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      09-25-2021, 07:52 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by f30hobbes View Post
Thanks for the reply! If you don't mind me asking what warranty company did you go with? And do you use the redline transmission fluid? Also I may sound like a real newbie here but what is a double clutch upshift? The car should be arriving from another carmax store in about a week and I am really excited, really hoping there are no shifting issues.
Of course! I have an aftermarket warranty purchased from a BMW dealer, but the actual warranty is through Zurich. I'm not sure what kind of fluid is in the car now, but BMW did the trans replacement, so I assume they used OEM BMW fluid. And, we were all newbies at some point, so no worries A double clutch is traditionally used on old, non-synchronized gearboxes, but it can also be used on newer gear boxes with bad synchros, or when you just want to go easy on your synchros. It's done like this. Let's say you're rolling in 1st gear. To double clutch you would: clutch in, shift to neutral, clutch out. Now you're in neutral. Then clutch in, shift to second, clutch out. Now you're in second, and you double clutched to get there. Sounds like a lot of steps but in practice it only takes a fraction of a second longer than a normal shift. And it's important to, when going from neutral to second, make sure that the revs are matched. You don't want to let the revs drop to idle in neutral, force it into 2nd, then dump the clutch and jump the revs. It can also be, and is more commonly, done on downshifts as well. I only do this when the car is cold, just to be extra gentle with the trans.
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      09-30-2021, 07:37 PM   #16
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Any particular reason why they're wholesaling this vehicle and not trying to retail it? Clean Carfax? With how the market is right now, I'm actually surprised they're not trying to retail a car like this.
Not actually sure, my purchasing manager said it might be because its past 60k miles, but there are no accidents on the carfax/autocheck vehicle history and it passed our mandatory safety check, but I am fairly sure it was a demo car for BMW at one point based on the vehicle history (was registered as a manufacturer vehicle in New Jersey for the first 6k miles of its life). I actually just checked the car out today and it was really clean, only one panel has been repainted, and no mods have been done as far as I know. Only issue is that the comfort to sport buttons are pretty sticky, need to figure out a way to get them cleaned out. Because of the car market right now is why I decided to jump on the deal.
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      09-30-2021, 07:39 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by rjd_F30 View Post
Of course! I have an aftermarket warranty purchased from a BMW dealer, but the actual warranty is through Zurich. I'm not sure what kind of fluid is in the car now, but BMW did the trans replacement, so I assume they used OEM BMW fluid. And, we were all newbies at some point, so no worries A double clutch is traditionally used on old, non-synchronized gearboxes, but it can also be used on newer gear boxes with bad synchros, or when you just want to go easy on your synchros. It's done like this. Let's say you're rolling in 1st gear. To double clutch you would: clutch in, shift to neutral, clutch out. Now you're in neutral. Then clutch in, shift to second, clutch out. Now you're in second, and you double clutched to get there. Sounds like a lot of steps but in practice it only takes a fraction of a second longer than a normal shift. And it's important to, when going from neutral to second, make sure that the revs are matched. You don't want to let the revs drop to idle in neutral, force it into 2nd, then dump the clutch and jump the revs. It can also be, and is more commonly, done on downshifts as well. I only do this when the car is cold, just to be extra gentle with the trans.
Just test drove the car today and at least to me, it seemed like it shifted really smooth. I am going to get a pre purchase vehicle inspection at my local indy BMW mechanic so hopefully there no big issues. I do have a 7 day grace period to return the vehicle if I wish to do so.
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      09-30-2021, 07:50 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by f30hobbes View Post
Not actually sure, my purchasing manager said it might be because its past 60k miles, but there are no accidents on the carfax/autocheck vehicle history and it passed our mandatory safety check, but I am fairly sure it was a demo car for BMW at one point based on the vehicle history (was registered as a manufacturer vehicle in New Jersey for the first 6k miles of its life). I actually just checked the car out today and it was really clean, only one panel has been repainted, and no mods have been done as far as I know. Only issue is that the comfort to sport buttons are pretty sticky, need to figure out a way to get them cleaned out. Because of the car market right now is why I decided to jump on the deal.
Pointed q tips and rubbing alcohol. Carefully work it in, allow to sit for a few minutes, then repeat as necessary.
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      09-30-2021, 08:27 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Just test drove the car today and at least to me, it seemed like it shifted really smooth. I am going to get a pre purchase vehicle inspection at my local indy BMW mechanic so hopefully there no big issues. I do have a 7 day grace period to return the vehicle if I wish to do so.
Nice, if it drove well and gets a clean bill of health after a PPI, you shouldn't have much to worry about. How many miles are on it?
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      09-30-2021, 10:25 PM   #20
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Congratulations on the new car! It sounds like a good one.
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      10-01-2021, 12:45 PM   #21
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Just my 2 cents based on the 2014 335i 6mt I picked up:

I would give the car a thorough inspection to look for any obvious issues or shoddy repair work. Obvious issues include oil leaks, grime from past leaks, condition of the fluids, worn belt, coolant leaks, things not working, etc. Any engine leaks should be very obvious on the under-pan. Shoddy repairs include missing under panels/screws, missing covers, zipties/tape/self tapping screws, cheap aftermarket parts. Basically anything that looks like someone was being cheap. Since there is a sensor for everything, scanning the car will tell you if anything is not working correctly.

The biggest red flag to me would be modifications. I'm fine with modifying my car, but I don't want to buy someone else's project unless I plan for it to be my project car.

Unless it's been done, I would plan to change the transmission and differential fluid as soon a possible. This is just to extend the life of your car. Its always possible for your syncros to develop issues later, but routine maintenance will help to delay or avoid problems.

To be perfectly honest, an 8at car is going to be faster than a 6mt. That's based gearing and the ability for the 8at to hold boost while shifting. Also, the car is approaching a power level where I feel that an automatic makes more sense.

That being said, I prefer to drive a manual. The 6mt is really easy to drive compared to my modified e30s (not much NVH, easy clutch engagement, well geared, smooth shifts, hill assist). Traffic isn't even a problem and I live in the Bay Area (constant traffic and huge hills). I have roughly 100k miles on what I assume to be the original clutch. I occasionally feel some slip when I feather the clutch too long (that's just a maintenance thing). The car is going to be plenty of fun stock and there isn't a real need for more power. However, I can't leave things alone, so I have bm3 on the ACN91 tune and the car is wildly more powerful. I highly suggest trying a bm3 tune on the n55 since it comes tuned so conservatively from the factory. I did blow my charge pipe a few days after the tune, so be ready for that. I'm 100% happy with my choice to get a 6mt.
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      10-03-2021, 01:53 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by f30hobbes View Post
Just test drove the car today and at least to me, it seemed like it shifted really smooth. I am going to get a pre purchase vehicle inspection at my local indy BMW mechanic so hopefully there no big issues. I do have a 7 day grace period to return the vehicle if I wish to do so.
Nice, if it drove well and gets a clean bill of health after a PPI, you shouldn't have much to worry about. How many miles are on it?
63k miles, I'm super excited, will keep you guys posted after the inspection.
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