[AndrewC1989]

I have a '15 328dx with approx 60k miles on the clock. Bone stock besides a few codings via bimmercode.

Twice in the last month I've gotten a random drivetrain malfunction error message on the idrive screen. It has occurred both times right after starting the car and going into reverse. It says something like "full power not available but car can still be driven normally, proceed with caution". It then immediately disappears and no warning messages or CEL's remain. Car drives and feels fine. Don't have access to a code reader atm so haven't looked into it deeper.

Any ideas?

[andreigbs]

Get BimmerLink and use the same dongle you use for BimmerCode to read/reset codes.

Post codes and someone should be able to help.

[AndrewC1989]

Originally Posted by andreigbs

Get BimmerLink and use the same dongle you use for BimmerCode to read/reset codes.

Post codes and someone should be able to help.

[Enabled]

Your EGR valve seems to be having issues holding position

[AndrewC1989]

Originally Posted by Enabled

Your EGR valve seems to be having issues holding position

Is that related to the recall? I just went in for that last month and they said it was fine

[eugene89us]

I agree with Enabled that your EGR is likely to blame. I had EGR replaced under warranty. It gave me the same Drive train Malfunction and similar codes. Don't pay attention to Info Memory. ERROR MEMORY and PERMANENT ERRORS is what counts.

Mine threw P049D EGR control position exceeds learning limit and 273600 EGR Valve Position--Long term drift positioning deviation too high

[AndrewC1989]

Originally Posted by eugene89us

I agree with Enabled that your EGR is likely to blame. I had EGR replaced under warranty. It gave me the same Drive train Malfunction and similar codes. Don't pay attention to Info Memory. ERROR MEMORY and PERMANENT ERRORS is what counts.

Mine threw P049D EGR control position exceeds learning limit and 273600 EGR Valve Position--Long term drift positioning deviation too high

Good to know! Would you know if it were to fail would the recall replace that? Or would I be buying a new EGR out of pocket?

[eugene89us]

Originally Posted by AndrewC1989

Good to know! Would you know if it were to fail would the recall replace that? Or would I be buying a new EGR out of pocket?

As far as I know, the recall only covers EGR cooler and any intake components that may have been damaged by faulty cooler. My EGR was replaced because I was under my original 4 year /50k mile warranty.

What I would suggest personally is to try to clean the EGR. I have never tried, but if you may end up forking money over for a new one, it won't hurt to try cleaning as the first thing to do. Most likely the thing got really sooted up that is affecting operation. The valve has 5 seconds to open or close on command, any delay will throw a code. ISTA would be good to have, there is a routine to check intake sooting that will also check EGR and swirl flap operation. There is a video on YouTube of a guy taking EGR off European F30 and doing a light cleaning. Not sure if any heavier cleaning is an option or not, but I would try that first. Mine requires removal of 2 security torx screws (dirt cheap on Amazon) and it will pull out a few inches. If you end up replacing EGR, you will need coolant also, since you will be disconnecting 2 coolant lines to remove it and you will need to top it off at the end.

I use this intake cleaner preventatively and it does a great job dissolving carbon deposits in intake.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/pro...i-moly-lm20208

You cannot expose MAF to it, but it does well with EGR soot and oil deposits. Maybe get a bottle for $10, remove the valve, put a small dish under it when you pull it to collect drippings and spray some over the mechanical valve side. Protect electronic side of course. May also be able to squirt some into the EGR opening with engine running to clean the EGR cooler a bit. But be careful with the latter part, as if you have too many deposits, you don't want to break them off in large chunks into intake. I usually avoid intake cleaning higher mileage cars unless you have been doing it from start and kept deposits low. But cleaning EGR valve alone would be reasonable thing to try. Worst case, if it helps none, you're out of $10 for cleaner and maybe another $10 for security torx set.

For future, consider getting a tune. My personal preference is Kerma tune as it will improve efficiency quite a bit and in my opinion will also reduce sooting of the intake without affecting any components (completely stock). The tune will reduce particulate formation, saving your DPF and hopefully also preserving cleanliness of EGR for a wee bit longer.

Cheers.

[AndrewC1989]

Originally Posted by eugene89us

As far as I know, the recall only covers EGR cooler and any intake components that may have been damaged by faulty cooler. My EGR was replaced because I was under my original 4 year /50k mile warranty.

What I would suggest personally is to try to clean the EGR. I have never tried, but if you may end up forking money over for a new one, it won't hurt to try cleaning as the first thing to do. Most likely the thing got really sooted up that is affecting operation. The valve has 5 seconds to open or close on command, any delay will throw a code. ISTA would be good to have, there is a routine to check intake sooting that will also check EGR and swirl flap operation. There is a video on YouTube of a guy taking EGR off European F30 and doing a light cleaning. Not sure if any heavier cleaning is an option or not, but I would try that first. Mine requires removal of 2 security torx screws (dirt cheap on Amazon) and it will pull out a few inches. If you end up replacing EGR, you will need coolant also, since you will be disconnecting 2 coolant lines to remove it and you will need to top it off at the end.

I use this intake cleaner preventatively and it does a great job dissolving carbon deposits in intake.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/pro...i-moly-lm20208

You cannot expose MAF to it, but it does well with EGR soot and oil deposits. Maybe get a bottle for $10, remove the valve, put a small dish under it when you pull it to collect drippings and spray some over the mechanical valve side. Protect electronic side of course. May also be able to squirt some into the EGR opening with engine running to clean the EGR cooler a bit. But be careful with the latter part, as if you have too many deposits, you don't want to break them off in large chunks into intake. I usually avoid intake cleaning higher mileage cars unless you have been doing it from start and kept deposits low. But cleaning EGR valve alone would be reasonable thing to try. Worst case, if it helps none, you're out of $10 for cleaner and maybe another $10 for security torx set.

For future, consider getting a tune. My personal preference is Kerma tune as it will improve efficiency quite a bit and in my opinion will also reduce sooting of the intake without affecting any components (completely stock). The tune will reduce particulate formation, saving your DPF and hopefully also preserving cleanliness of EGR for a wee bit longer.

Cheers.

Thanks for the advice but I think I will just go the OEM replacement route. Just wanted to double-check that this the correct replacement part:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ve-11717810871

also, would I need this gasket?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ve-11717794785

and is there anything else I might be overlooking part wise?

[eugene89us]

Originally Posted by AndrewC1989

Thanks for the advice but I think I will just go the OEM replacement route. Just wanted to double-check that this the correct replacement part:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ve-11717810871

also, would I need this gasket?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ve-11717794785

and is there anything else I might be overlooking part wise?

Yes, the part numbers match. I verified with mine at https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_4582

Per BMW, you do need to replace the O ring when reinstalling the EGR. However, it almost seems on RealOEM that the EGR should come with one in the package, but don't quote me on that. Make sure you have hose clamps (also known as worm clamps). FCP has some cheap OE clamps, they have raised ridges unlike US clamps that just have cut outs. Supposedly German ones don't damage the rubber as much as US ones. I do kinda prefer the German ones. You will need them to reconnect the coolant lines, the old rings will be cut off and unusable. You will lose some coolant in process, make sure you have some coolant or at least distilled water if you live in warmer climate to refill what you lose.

You will need to remove the intake silencer and disconnect PCV valve, this will give you plenty of space. It is also suggested that you unscrew the two screws holding the power cable that runs over the valve and put it to the side to give you even more space. There are 2 security torx screws on EGR valve and 2 coolant lines that need to be disconnected. Disconnect electric plug to EGR. And you're ready to remove. Before you reinstall new EGR, replace O ring and connect rear coolant hose first, otherwise it will be pain to reach once EGR is set in place. Pretty easy job. Get ISTA software, because you need to purge air from coolant and reset EGR adaptation after installing one. At least that is recommended to do, but I am sure the car can re-adapt on its own. But also don't quote me on that, I personally like to do all of it, even if not necessary.

[eugene89us]

American vs European Hose Clamps.

[eugene89us]

One last thing, since you will have EGR out, invest in cheap borescope on Amazon. That way, you can glance to make sure the EGR cooler downstream looks good internally and only has dry soot. Presence of wet soot signifies coolant leak.

[F34335D]

Did the replacement resolve the issue?

[mcdrums1]

I have the same drivetrain error on my 2014 328d xdrive popping up randomly and is running on minimal power. I'm at about 125,000 miles.

I also have the emissions inspection service light on.

I'm trying to sell this and need to get this resolved ASAP. I'm not sure if I need to replace the turbo, I think I do, which is way out of my price range OEM, as in roughly $2,000 for the part alone I believe.

I'm not much of a car guy and I don't understand this stuff too well. My mechanic suggested, if I remember correctly, that I modify to a cool air intake and might be able to replace the turbo with a cheaper one. Dunno. Its all Chinese algebra to me.

If anyone has any suggestions as the cheapest way to resolve this potential issue I'd be very grateful. I'll attach some pics of the error codes I ran the other day. I was told by an appraiser I need to replace the EGR valve. Hopefully that is all I need.
Sorry ahead of time if I'm not posting in the right spot. In a bit of a pinch.
Thanks!

[Enabled]

There are no signs of having anything to do with the turbo, I'd stay away from that mechanic.

Generic P code scanners are mediocre at best at identifying specific problems, but the best guess is a dirty or failed egr valve. It's a fairly easy repair.

[mcdrums1]

Originally Posted by Enabled

There are no signs of having anything to do with the turbo, I'd stay away from that mechanic.

Generic P code scanners are mediocre at best at identifying specific problems, but the best guess is a dirty or failed egr valve. It's a fairly easy repair.

Thanks for the reply. He looked at my engine and saw carbon leaking by the turbo and assumed that was the problem, he didn't run a code. We were doing basic service and he noticed it.

I mentioned the code that I ran above and he said it was probably an EGR valve that would cause the engine to give me that warning. He's legit, friend at work that runs his biz on the side.

Being that I'm at over 120,000 miles, wouldn't I need to replace the turbo anyway? Hopefully its just the valve, but the emissions inspection service warning is on, and has been on prior to the drivetrain error

[Enabled]

The turbo on these is quite robust, and you wouldn't change it without proof of actual damage or failure. They last a very long time and can take a lot of abuse. They can have a small sooty spot around where the VNT control lever goes into the turbo, and that's ok.

If you have pics, it would help.
But as far as the engine light and drivetrain error, that's from the EGR valve.

[Enabled]

The emissions inspection thing is simply a reminder for you to get your smog/emissions inspection. You can update the date easily in the service requirements section of vehicle info in the multimedia system.

[mcdrums1]

Originally Posted by Enabled

The emissions inspection thing is simply a reminder for you to get your smog/emissions inspection. You can update the date easily in the service requirements section of vehicle info in the multimedia system.

Thats more of a relief, thanks. Much better than a $2000 turbo. I appreciate your help. I'll post pics if we can't get a good idea of whats going on. Thanks again!

[AndrewC1989]

Originally Posted by F34335D

Did the replacement resolve the issue?

Unfortunately two days after I replaced the valve and gasket I got the same iDrive warning and code thrown (273600)

Back to the drawing board

[mcdrums1]

Have you checked for a recall? I took my 2014 328d in yesterday and they are replacing the transfer case free of charge! I have 125,000 miles on it. I was stunned. Might want to check. Hope you get it figured out.

[AndrewC1989]

Originally Posted by mcdrums1

Have you checked for a recall? I took my 2014 328d in yesterday and they are replacing the transfer case free of charge! I have 125,000 miles on it. I was stunned. Might want to check. Hope you get it figured out.

Did all the egr and xfer case related recall stuff a couple months ago and they said everything checked out and I didn't have anything replaced other than a rubber flex disc. I'm only at 62k but I'm out of warranty so I'm having this looked at by an indie shop.