[Ragen]

Hello guys,

I am new to here as well as newbie in audio systems. Can you please advice?
I have 2012 F30 (320d)
I want to add sub woofer to my car and I want to do it as simple as possible. I have been using High to Low converter on my previous car (Volvo) and everything was working.
I have picture below with plan of doing this again. Can you tell me if this will work again for me? Or should I just use connection cables as shown below. (This is same High to low converter but I would not need to cut wires)
I am just unsure where to connect my remote wire on this car.
Please let me know if there is better solutions as well .



https://ibb.co/x5QYFhJ


https://ibb.co/GxqPSHR

Thank you guys in advance.
Desperate to add sub again.

[Billfitz]

Your diagram is correct, but if you're tapping the wires to the under seat speakers to feed the sub amp and you're leaving them operational you don't need to tap both, or use a two channel amp. The low frequency information in recordings has been summed to mono since the early 1970s. Many powered subs also have high level inputs built in.

[Encanto]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

Your diagram is correct, but if you're tapping the wires to the under seat speakers to feed the sub amp and you're leaving them operational you don't need to tap both, or use a two channel amp. The low frequency information in recordings has been summed to mono since the early 1970s. Many powered subs also have high level inputs built in.

Both OEM woofers must be tapped as their input signal is Stereo, not mono.

Aftermarket amps must accept between 10-40V inputs via high-level ports depending on OEM sound system woofer output peak levels. Not all LOC accept that range. OP has not specified which OEM system the car has.

Using incorrect signal level devices with the OEM amp will eventually burn them.

[Billfitz]

The signal is stereo above 100Hz, insofar as there is distinct left/right content, but that's not the case below 100Hz. There it's summed to mono, not by the amp or HU, but by the engineer in the recording studio where the media was mastered. You have to go back to the early days of stereo to find recordings that are left/right below 100Hz, and that doesn't exist other than on the original vinyl. Anything on CD or any other digital media will have been remastered, with the low frequency content summed to mono.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by Ragen

Hello guys,

I am new to here as well as newbie in audio systems. Can you please advice?
I have 2012 F30 (320d)
I want to add sub woofer to my car and I want to do it as simple as possible. I have been using High to Low converter on my previous car (Volvo) and everything was working.
I have picture below with plan of doing this again. Can you tell me if this will work again for me? Or should I just use connection cables as shown below. (This is same High to low converter but I would not need to cut wires)
I am just unsure where to connect my remote wire on this car.
Please let me know if there is better solutions as well .
[COLOR="PaleGreen"][/COLOR]

[IMG]https://ibb.co/x5QYFhJ[/IMG]
https://ibb.co/x5QYFhJ

[IMG]https://ibb.co/GxqPSHR[/IMG]
https://ibb.co/GxqPSHR

Thank you guys in advance.
Desperate to add sub again.

There is a company in Florida called Technicpcp that makes various plug-in harnesses based on your model car and model of factory audio system. Attached photo shows an example of a harness for my system that pulls out the subwoofer speaker pairs without splicing into the car's wiring.

Also I had some difficulty finding mini-car amps that would accept high level speaker signals up to 40 volts. AudioControl makes some nice models that do, so that a Line Out Converter is not necessary. I'm planning to use the AudioControl ACM-2.300.

[Ahanix]

Originally Posted by johnung

There is a company in Florida called Technicpcp that makes various plug-in harnesses based on your model car and model of factory audio system. Attached photo shows an example of a harness for my system that pulls out the subwoofer speaker pairs without splicing into the car's wiring.

Also I had some difficulty finding mini-car amps that would accept high level speaker signals up to 40 volts. AudioControl makes some nice models that do, so that a Line Out Converter is not necessary. I'm planning to use the AudioControl ACM-2.300.

I'll second this. I purchased the Technic PNP Harness with the AudioControl ACM-1.300 (single channel, 300w RMS) with the same high level inputs. I would 100% recommend you go this route to cut down on the amount of things you have to wire in and hide. (Keep note, I did move the fuse from where you can see it in this picture because it wasn't within 18" of the battery terminal)

[DreamerJoe]

looks like your trying to use your previous setup, but that harness/LOC looks volvo specific. so without chopping it up and into your BMW wiring I also agree, get the technic harness. I added a sub 2 weeks ago and it made install very easy, there are even a few people selling used ones on marketplace for $60. they are system specific though, so you need to know if you have Hifi, HK, etc.. so you don't potentially buy the wrong one.

[Ragen]

Hello guys, I will try to answer to you all.

So I will need Technic harness adaptor, which will basically connect original amp back to speakers but it gives me speaker wires separately which I can use to connect to Line out converter which will be connected to RCA cables.

If this is correct, then I got music input/ power from battery and ground cable to car frame.

But last part is remote. Where can I get signal for amp to know when to turn on/off ?

You already made my decision a lot easier and understandable so thank you already for all who responded.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by Ahanix

I'll second this. I purchased the Technic PNP Harness with the AudioControl ACM-1.300 (single channel, 300w RMS) with the same high level inputs. I would 100% recommend you go this route to cut down on the amount of things you have to wire in and hide. (Keep note, I did move the fuse from where you can see it in this picture because it wasn't within 18" of the battery terminal)

Thanks, especially for the photos. I haven't tried to figure out yet how to remove the interior panels. I didn't realize there was any space underneath the floor that would fit the mini AudioControl amp. Did you just Velcro it in place?

Did you run maybe an 8 gauge wire directly to the battery? The amplifier has a 30amp fuse. Did you also use a 30amp or another size inline fuse? Where did you run the ground wire? Is there a good grounding point somewhere in that area? It appears like you ran a +12volt line for turn on/off. Where did you connect it?

Was there a trick to connecting the technicpnp harness? I'd like to install an ASD cutoff harness too but I'm not sure if both can be installed simultaneously. I'm planning to upgrade to Earthquake underseat subs.

Sorry for so many questions. You'd really help me not to have to recreate what you've already learned on your project. Any information would be greatly appreciated!

[Ahanix]

Originally Posted by johnung

Thanks, especially for the photos. I haven't tried to figure out yet how to remove the interior panels. I didn't realize there was any space underneath the floor that would fit the mini AudioControl amp. Did you just Velcro it in place?

Did you run maybe an 8 gauge wire directly to the battery? The amplifier has a 30amp fuse. Did you also use a 30amp or another size inline fuse? Where did you run the ground wire? Is there a good grounding point somewhere in that area? It appears like you ran a +12volt line for turn on/off. Where did you connect it?

Was there a trick to connecting the technicpnp harness? I'd like to install an ASD cutoff harness too but I'm not sure if both can be installed simultaneously. I'm planning to upgrade to Earthquake underseat subs.

Sorry for so many questions. You'd really help me not to have to recreate what you've already learned on your project. Any information would be greatly appreciated!

Glad to help any way I can - I'll also try to get some better pictures if I have some time soon. Please feel free to reach out and i'll walk you through as much as I can though.

Amplifier Power and Ground
I ended up using an 8 gauge amplifier install kit. The power wire is only about 2-2.5 feet from the battery but I did use the included fuse with the amplifier kit just for redundancy. They recommend using it in case of unexpected battery load and so you don't start a fire, better safe than sorry.

When you remove the trunk liner you will see a grounding point on the left. It's just close enough to get your amp connected to and uses an m6 nut that you can pick up at home depot to place it on there.

I did also find another one of those grounding posts when I pulled my side seat off in the back to run my remote wire, it is a bit closer.

Remote Wire (12v)
I used fuse 146 which is the 12v for the homelink mirror and park distance control, and an add a fuse (5amp) the speaker level inputs don't give a dc signal for some reason and won't turn on the AMP/LOC


Technic PNP Harness
No trick to installing the technicpnp harness, it's essentially just plug and play. I did have to buy some 16awg four strand wire to hook up to the harness, just used crimp fittings and heatshrink, that way I had enough wire to run to my amp. The harness comes with the connector and stripped wire to connect your additional wire to, I just went to Home Depot and got the speaker wire because Belden wire is highly rated.


Additional Info
I did follow a lot of this guys article, as it was very similar. The only thing I changed is I didn't want to mount it in the cubby that everyone else uses. I always store my bootmod3 stuff there, a can of boostane and some detailing rags and really didn't want to give it up.

To mount the amp where I did I just used 3M VHB tape (same stuff you use to attach spoilers to the car) . I'm confident the amp isn't going anywhere, but there are some mounting posts you could use if you want to drill larger holes in the amp bracket if needed.

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1644467

[johnung]

Originally Posted by Ahanix

Glad to help any way I can - I'll also try to get some better pictures if I have some time soon. Please feel free to reach out and i'll walk you through as much as I can though.

Amplifier Power and Ground
I ended up using an 8 gauge amplifier install kit. The power wire is only about 2-2.5 feet from the battery but I did use the included fuse with the amplifier kit just for redundancy. They recommend using it in case of unexpected battery load and so you don't start a fire, better safe than sorry.

When you remove the trunk liner you will see a grounding point on the left. It's just close enough to get your amp connected to and uses an m6 nut that you can pick up at home depot to place it on there.

I did also find another one of those grounding posts when I pulled my side seat off in the back to run my remote wire, it is a bit closer.

Remote Wire (12v)
I used fuse 146 which is the 12v for the homelink mirror and park distance control, and an add a fuse (5amp) the speaker level inputs don't give a dc signal for some reason and won't turn on the AMP/LOC


Technic PNP Harness
No trick to installing the technicpnp harness, it's essentially just plug and play. I did have to buy some 16awg four strand wire to hook up to the harness, just used crimp fittings and heatshrink, that way I had enough wire to run to my amp. The harness comes with the connector and stripped wire to connect your additional wire to, I just went to Home Depot and got the speaker wire because Belden wire is highly rated.


Additional Info
I did follow a lot of this guys article, as it was very similar. The only thing I changed is I didn't want to mount it in the cubby that everyone else uses. I always store my bootmod3 stuff there, a can of boostane and some detailing rags and really didn't want to give it up.

To mount the amp where I did I just used 3M VHB tape (same stuff you use to attach spoilers to the car) . I'm confident the amp isn't going anywhere, but there are some mounting posts you could use if you want to drill larger holes in the amp bracket if needed.

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1644467

When you connected to Fuse 146 for your +12v on/off trigger did you use one of these add-on fuse connectors as in the attached photo? I pulled this photo from another post. So far I haven't found a source to buy them.

[Ahanix]

Originally Posted by johnung

When you connected to Fuse 146 for your +12v on/off trigger did you use one of these add-on fuse connectors as in the attached photo? I pulled this photo from another post. So far I haven't found a source to buy them.

Yep! it's the Mini Add a Fuse and you'll have to also buy an extra 5 amp fuse to go with it. You can find these at most part stores in the fuse section. I ordered the micro off Amazon and found it was the wrong one so I had to run to Autozone and pick up the mini one.

[Encanto]

Originally Posted by Ahanix

Yep! it's the Mini Add a Fuse and you'll have to also buy an extra 5 amp fuse to go with it. You can find these at most part stores in the fuse section. I ordered the micro off Amazon and found it was the wrong one so I had to run to Autozone and pick up the mini one.

1A fuse for remote is what is required, 5A is too big for most aftermarket amps.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by Encanto

1A fuse for remote is what is required, 5A is too big for most aftermarket amps.

Isn't that port on an amp just sensing whether there is a 12volt signal to turn itself on or off? Most electrical circuits in cars are a lot more than 1 amp. All one has to do is look at the sizes of the fuses in the fuse box. Plus if there was an issue wouldn't the amplifier come with instructions to protect that +12v port with a 1 amp fuse.
I'm just trying to understand why I haven't seen this information anywhere else?

[Billfitz]

The fuse size depends on the wire size, the wire size required depends on the device current draw. A trigger voltage would have very low current draw, so it would use a light gauge wire and low capacity fuse. The power supply for the amp has a much higher current draw, so it would require a much larger wire gauge and fuse capacity.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

The fuse size depends on the wire size, the wire size required depends on the device current draw. A trigger voltage would have very low current draw, so it would use a light gauge wire and low capacity fuse. The power supply for the amp has a much higher current draw, so it would require a much larger wire gauge and fuse capacity.

Thanks for the explanation, Bill.

The ACM-2.300 that I ordered has a Remote Power Input Terminal. The installation manual says to connect this terminal to the head unit's 12V remote trigger output, or alternatively to utilize the GTO feature of the ACM-2.300 (I've read a few comments that said not to count on that feature working seamlessly in a BMW)

It seems complex to attempt to learn if the H/K BMW head unit has a 12V remote trigger output, locate it, tap into it and run a wire back to the secondary AudioControl amplifier.

I understand that most people are tapping into the easily trunk accessible Fuse #146 which has a 5A fuse protecting the circuit. So it makes sense to plan to utilize a mini-add-a-fuse connection to tap in to that circuit at the trunk fuse block.

I sent two questions to AudioControl tech support concerning the Remote Power Input Terminal of the ACM-2.300. I'm waiting for their response.

1) What size wire gauge should be connected to this terminal?

2) What size fuse should be used to protect the circuit that provides the 12V signal to the RPI Terminal? I have been told a 5A fuse by some people, and a 1A fuse by others.

Bill, do the head units typically use a standard or common configuration for the 12V Remote Trigger Output Port?

If I connect the AudioControl Remote Power Input Terminal to the 12V circuit with Fuse #146 using a mini-add-a-Fuse, what gauge wire would you suggest and what size fuse would you suggest to protect it? Thanks in advance.

[Billfitz]

5 amperes at 14 volts is 70 watts. I doubt the trigger is more than 1 watt. That's like 1/10 ampere. A 1 ampere fuse would be well more than is needed. For safe operation that would require 24 gauge wire. What the head unit uses for a trigger I can't say.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

5 amperes at 14 volts is 70 watts. I doubt the trigger is more than 1 watt. That's like 1/10 ampere. A 1 ampere fuse would be well more than is needed. For safe operation that would require 24 gauge wire. What the head unit uses for a trigger I can't say.

Thanks, Bill. Very much appreciate your advice so I don't stupidly fry some expensive electronics. So I shouldn't have tossed out that old Bell Telephone wire that I thought I'd never find a new use for?

I just received the following response from AudioControl tech support concerning their ACM-2.300 amplifier.

"The GTO signal sensing circuit works on the Left +/- terminal of the speaker level connector. GTO looks for a signal/voltage on the speaker level signals and should work with most factory or aftermarket head units.

The Remote In terminal accepts a 12v trigger either from an aftermarket head units trigger output or from a keyed 12V source of the vehicle. Adequate wire gauge would be like 18 gauge. If you are using the trigger out from an aftermarket head unit it is probably already fused but for a factory system you could use a 1 or 2 amp fuse on the 12v trigger connection."

Thanks again!

[Encanto]

The GTO does not work with the MOST OEM amp woofer outputs.

Originally Posted by johnung

Thanks, Bill. Very much appreciate your advice so I don't stupidly fry some expensive electronics. So I shouldn't have tossed out that old Bell Telephone wire that I thought I'd never find a new use for?

I just received the following response from AudioControl tech support concerning their ACM-2.300 amplifier.

"The GTO signal sensing circuit works on the Left +/- terminal of the speaker level connector. GTO looks for a signal/voltage on the speaker level signals and should work with most factory or aftermarket head units.

The Remote In terminal accepts a 12v trigger either from an aftermarket head units trigger output or from a keyed 12V source of the vehicle. Adequate wire gauge would be like 18 gauge. If you are using the trigger out from an aftermarket head unit it is probably already fused but for a factory system you could use a 1 or 2 amp fuse on the 12v trigger connection."

Thanks again!