[Red-i]

What is this? It doesn't look like scratches. Is the clear coat worn off? And what can I use to fix it?

Driving me nuts.

[PHXATC]

Is that before or after you put the wax on? What wax did you use? What other products did you use leading up to that point?

If it is AFTER the wax, it just might be the wax off-gassing a little bit.

Did you polish (paint correct) the paint at all?

[Billfitz]

Judging by the reflections on the hood I'd say tree sap. If it doesn't come off with alcohol you'll probably have to polish it to bring back the shine, worst case using a medium cut compound before polish. As for waxing, if you're using that term generically OK, but it you mean real wax that went out around the turn of the century. Polymer sealants work much better. I use Jescar Power Lock.

[OldDudesBimmer]

Likely a clear coat issue. My advice would be to remove all the wax with a good cleaner and inspect the clear coat closely under bright light or sunlight before you start waxing/sealing. If correction is needed in the clear coat (dull/cloudy areas, swirl marks, fine scratches, etc.), then invest in an orbital buffer, polishing compound, cutting\polishing pads, and learn how to use them if you don't already know. For those who don't already know how to do this on their own, it can be very liberating to be able to fix your own clear coat anomalies whenever you want. Even brand new cars typically need a slight correction in most cases.

I typically use the tried and true Meguiars 105 and 205 compounds. Use 105 carefully if needed, then follow with the 205 ultra finishing compound. I have 4" Zota orbital polisher for smaller panels (and higher RPMs if needed), and then also a run of the mill 10" polisher for larger panels. The aggressive cut 105 compound may not be needed for some panels and should be only be used carefully on any deeper clear coat scratches or problem areas. I definitely needed the 105 when correcting my 8 yo paint in some areas. There are lot's of tips and tricks for using this combo on the Internet/Youtube, so check it out if not familiar with the process. The aggressive cut 105 can be very messy with scattering/residue if you aren't careful, so be careful with that depending on where you are working.

In your case, I'd strip all the wax and try to polish those spots away with the 205 or equivalent "mild" compound first. Then, I would only move to the 105 if necessary, and then back to finish with the 205. You can even polish by hand for small areas if you don't have an orbital buffer, but the results are never as good for me and I end up getting out my smaller orbital buffer since it is so easy to use. If you haven't before, I'd also 205 the whole car and see where she sets. You'll be amazed if it hasn't been done before.

[Red-i]

So much info. I really appreciate it.

I haven't used compound before. I do have an orbital polisher though. I used it to apply meguiars ultimate liquid wax. I didn't clay bar first (I should have , but it's so damn hot out even the wax job made me feel like passing out lol )

I've watched some videos on compounding and correction. Little nervous to mess shit up though.

[Billfitz]

With the exception of using a rotary buffer with heavy cut compound it's almost impossible to mess up the finish. If there's a mistake that newbies often make it's over buffing with medium cut compound in search of a high shine. That doesn't come until you polish. IMO clay bar is over-rated. I never use it.

[RAK92]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

With the exception of using a rotary buffer with heavy cut compound it's almost impossible to mess up the finish. If there's a mistake that newbies often make it's over buffing with medium cut compound in search of a high shine. That doesn't come until you polish. IMO clay bar is over-rated. I never use it.

What is overrated about taking the crap out of the surface before polishing? I’ve been doing it for many years and it definitely makes a difference when you go to polish. I’d rather not polish all the crap that gets caught in the surface. To be sure, it takes a decent amount of time to clay, but I think it’s worth it.

[Billfitz]

IME anything that doesn't come off with alcohol isn't going to come off without compounding. Even medium cut compound works better faster than clay. Clay is OK if you lack the tools to compound. I don't.

[RAK92]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

IME anything that doesn't come off with alcohol isn't going to come off without compounding. Even medium cut compound works better faster than clay. Clay is OK if you lack the tools to compound. I don't.

I have the tools as well, but I guess we can agree to disagree here. By claying the surface and removing the impurities, it’ll make a better surface for polishing and sealing. Is it a complete fail if the claying process is skipped, probably not, but I wouldn’t say it’s useless to clay and use an orbital polisher, etc. afterwards.

Plus, when you polish without claying you’re just going to add those impurities into your paint even with a light cut polish. Why add more?

[Billfitz]

Whatever impurities are on my finish I remove with alcohol before compounding. Whatever may be embedded into the clear coat gets removed by compounding, they don't get added to it.