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      04-12-2021, 04:29 AM   #1
gerrymoore
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2017 435D MSport bad 'shaking' when warm??

My car has only done 18K miles. Recently, after I have driven about 10 miles the whole car begins to shake badly. I feel it in my legs rather that in the steering wheel. Have checked wheels and tyres can't find any play in any joints but the car feels 'dangerous' to drive.

Only thing happened a couple of weeks ago I hit a large pothole also for the first time in 2 years I put the gearbox into 'sport' mode....

I'm getting the alignment checked later today and the Kwik Fit 'mechanic' suggested it may be brakes binding when hot?

Anyone else had this as it's got me at a loss as to what could be wrong??
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      04-13-2021, 03:20 AM   #2
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Significant shaking while driving is a real cause for concern.

The clue is in your post - the car hit a large pothole.

I'd get each wheel off the car in turn and check for damage : tyre bulges, wheels buckled.

A tyre fitter can also check for damage, run-out, imbalance, etc.

Also check for damage to suspension components, although if the impact eas significant enough to affect those I'd expect the tyres/wheels to be damaged as well.
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      04-13-2021, 04:07 AM   #3
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Getting nowhere with this problem....drove the car for 18 miles yesterday (up to 70mph on motorway) and it was perfect until the last mile when the shaking started again as I came off up the slip road. I'm going to take temperatures of the tyres and discs when cold and when the shaking starts to see if I can pinpoint a tyre or braking problem....
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      04-14-2021, 06:49 PM   #4
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If it's getting significantly worse when worn then it's something warming up, and if you're feeling it through your seat rather than wheel then that points to the rear as being the most likely culprit. I've had knackered dampers get warm with hard use and start to feel loose and I've had wheels that get better with temperature as the tyre softens slightly and helps to soften the impact of a bobbled wheel. However, the only times I've had anything as bad as you describe that takes that long to get going has been a badly binding caliper. If you can, get it out until it starts doing it and then pull over, preferably without using the brakes. This means that any heat in the brakes is going to predominantly be from unwanted friction rather than intentional braking. You can usually still tell, but if it's minor and say combined with a slightly fading damper, the temperature increase might not be as much as you'd expect to cause what you're feeling.
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      04-15-2021, 03:10 AM   #5
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Thanks for your thoughts Ennoch.... a lot of people on another forum are blaming my tyres. I fitted a full set of Falken non-runflats about 2000 miles ago and have been very pleased but I am being told that they may be upsetting the transfer box due to different circumferences.... I've actually ordered a set of new Goodyear F1's at great cost but will try the brakes first as I can send the tyres back. If it is the caliper binding can this be fixed or is it a new caliper?? Gerry
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      04-15-2021, 07:18 AM   #6
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Is there any change in the shaking depending on whether or not you are accelerating or braking.

Given that it only occurs when warmed up I think it's unlikely to be wheels or tyres.

If it's more pronounced when braking then it's more likely to be disks / pad related.

If it is more pronounced when accelerating (even gently) then I'd look closely at driveshafts and CV joints.

The latter occurred to me a few years ago in an Audi. The car was smooth as anything until it was warm at which point any acceleration at all would cause the car to shake. It turned out to be an inner CV joint. When cold everything appeared normal, however when warm there was loads of play in the joint.
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      04-16-2021, 03:26 AM   #7
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GEP that describes it almost exactly!!

I went out yesterday and checked brake disc/caliper and tyre temeperatures ...all normal.

In a round trip of around 20 miles it started to 'shake' but only gently ...and I could hear a very faint knocking sound. The fact I feel it through legs and backside would point to a rear driveshaft or CV joint ??

Problem now is how do I find out which one when I'm out on the road!!
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      04-16-2021, 05:42 AM   #8
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The best way to find out which one is simply to grab hold of a drive shaft and try and move it around. You might need to Jack up the car first for access, unless you're able to get under the car enough to reach the drive shafts.

Another tell tale is if there is a spray ring of grease around a CV joint.

Obviously you need to do the first task when it's hot so requires a bit of planning.
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      04-16-2021, 12:48 PM   #9
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I also had a slight vibration from a cv axle, but everything was intact and it was not easy to tell that it was a CV. In fact, my diff got replaced because we swore it was the diff.
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      04-18-2021, 03:39 AM   #10
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Have had a 4 wheel alignment check (all good) and while on the ramp they checked the driveshafts.. nothing found. It's not the brake calipers as they are not binding or getting hot. I've got the new tyres so I'll get them fitted tomorrow and see if they help..... thanks all for your advice so far ...Gerry
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      04-18-2021, 08:52 AM   #11
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Just had 4 new (expensive) runflats fitted. Tyre fitter was putting the last wheel on and saw a load of grease ...from the OSF inner CV joint so fault found - anyone wanna buy 4 almost new non-runflat tyres
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      04-18-2021, 10:04 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gerrymoore View Post
Just had 4 new (expensive) runflats fitted. Tyre fitter was putting the last wheel on and saw a load of grease ...from the OSF inner CV joint so fault found - anyone wanna buy 4 almost new non-runflat tyres
Don't think much of the place that did the alignment not to spot that.....

Glad to see it looks like you've sorted it though.
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      04-28-2021, 04:09 AM   #13
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An update .... changed the front offside driveshaft and now all good. Inner joint boot had come loose (not split) and allowed the grease to ooze out over a long period ..as said, car only done 18K. The inner bearings are well gone and no replacement available - just the whole new shaft. I got mine from Germany in 3 days for 140.00 delivered ...less than a third of BMW price. Fitting was reasonable easy apart from getting the old shaft to 'snap' out of the diff!!
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      04-28-2021, 06:22 PM   #14
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Glad to hear you've got it all sorted!

I've just rebuilt the driveshafts on my Impreza after 18 years and 100k+ miles and it's amazing how well made these things are, and also how cheap that even genuine ones can be for the quality of metal that's in them. Mine are almost completely devoid of wear, just a bit of polishing. I have no idea what the first 50k of ownership was but the second 50k definitely hasn't been gentle so it's pretty imprssive.

I suspect if the boot's been leaking grease out of yours then moisture will have been getting in and that will have not helped the joint at all.
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