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      11-21-2018, 11:56 AM   #23
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1+ on removing the EDC, car feels way better with coil overs.

look for F80 control arms and find a sway bar the car handles way better

I do about 4 events a season and enjoy the 335 very much, Im running 245 / 265 setup for tires.


DVC I need find out more on coding the Elsd and other nannies out haven't tried that yet
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      11-21-2018, 01:25 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Gr-Racing View Post
1+ on removing the EDC, car feels way better with coil overs.

look for F80 control arms and find a sway bar the car handles way better

I do about 4 events a season and enjoy the 335 very much, Im running 245 / 265 setup for tires.


DVC I need find out more on coding the Elsd and other nannies out haven't tried that yet
Here's the thread on coding for the F chassis: <link>

I agree on the F80 control arms in addition to the sway bars.... The F80 front LCAs have a nice spherical bearing that is an improvement over the F30 bushing; the F80 tension struts are a must to maintain proper front wheel geometry when the F80 LCAs are installed, but the F80 TSs have the same mushy bushing as the F30 version, so I went with Dinan mono balls in mine. Also, I swapped 4 of the 5 rear control arms (no after market option for the roll over strut) with Megan Racing arms with heim joints, and then put delrin bushings and spherical bearings in the OE roll over strut. Not to mention solid rear subframe bushings. No rubber anywhere in my suspension at this point, so the car feels pretty dialed. And yet it's still more comfortable on the street than my friend's stock BRZ.
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Last edited by DVC; 11-22-2018 at 10:00 PM..
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      11-21-2018, 08:47 PM   #25
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When I used to track my c5 z06, the abs and stability control would kick in and ruin my lap times. There was no way around it unless I rewired the car. Less tech feels a lot better unless you are porsche or mclaren and you build a 1 million dollar hypercar.
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      11-22-2018, 10:14 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by 97supratt View Post
When I used to track my c5 z06, the abs and stability control would kick in and ruin my lap times. There was no way around it unless I rewired the car. Less tech feels a lot better unless you are porsche or mclaren and you build a 1 million dollar hypercar.
Modern BMW ABS is so good...A lot of serious 911 builds swap in the Teves mk60 units from e46 M3s for a significant upgrade (excluding the GT cars, which use sophisticated Bosch units).

TC/DSC has come as long way too. Back in the early e46 days, it was unusable even in spirited street driving...but now Sport+ with a mechanical LSD allows enough slip angle to really rotate the car in turns without ever intervening. And if you code out the eLSD, then you can run in DSC off with zero TC/stability nannies.
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      11-24-2018, 05:50 PM   #27
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Modern BMW ABS is so good...A lot of serious 911 builds swap in the Teves mk60 units from e46 M3s for a significant upgrade (excluding the GT cars, which use sophisticated Bosch units).

TC/DSC has come as long way too. Back in the early e46 days, it was unusable even in spirited street driving...but now Sport+ with a mechanical LSD allows enough slip angle to really rotate the car in turns without ever intervening. And if you code out the eLSD, then you can run in DSC off with zero TC/stability nannies.
Sounds good to me. Before I install anything, I gotta have the dealer repair some vibration coming from the rear. All my stage 2 parts are waiting to be installed. Anything above 70mph includes a horrible vibration from the rear end.
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      01-13-2019, 09:21 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97supratt View Post
I had the same dillema. The M lineup will always be more race oriented but the issue I have with M's is that the rotors are still too soft for race pads, the dampers cannot be lowered with "springs". Any M vehicle is setup for perfection from factory. The 335 seems to react better to mods and is really fun in the corners.
So the cost offset going from a new F80 to a used 335i makes up for the upgraded rotors and mods on the F30?


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For a lot less you can just get a c5 z06 and be done with it. Hahah
LOL true
You mean c6 z06
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      01-19-2019, 07:04 PM   #29
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You mean c6 z06
The C5 is a much stiffer chassis surprisingly. St1 and St2 class is full of really fast c5 z06's. For some reason the C6 chassis is too soft and feels too heavy around corners. Plus the vavletrain issues in the LS7 doesn't help. 🤔
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      01-21-2019, 05:50 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97supratt View Post
The C5 is a much stiffer chassis surprisingly. St1 and St2 class is full of really fast c5 z06's. For some reason the C6 chassis is too soft and feels too heavy around corners. Plus the vavletrain issues in the LS7 doesn't help. 🤔
C5 Z06's are no joke, my buddy has one with heads/cams/exhaust and it's a monster. For the money, they're a much more capable track toy than an F30 even with some mods. I just could not live with that interior, way too much shiny plastic.
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      01-21-2019, 05:58 PM   #31
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I had a 4th gen CAMARO with the ls1 that I had the heads ported and custom cam and ls6 I take was good for 420 rwhp. I never knew the c6 chassis was a problem. Lg Motorsports beat all their c5 times in a c6.
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      01-30-2019, 11:20 AM   #32
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I had a 4th gen CAMARO with the ls1 that I had the heads ported and custom cam and ls6 I take was good for 420 rwhp. I never knew the c6 chassis was a problem. Lg Motorsports beat all their c5 times in a c6.
Ya lg had sequential transmissions in the c6's. I'm referring to normal track guys that attend hpde's or time attacks, nasa, scca. The c5's are typically faster and lighter.
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      01-30-2019, 11:25 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97supratt View Post
Ya lg had sequential transmissions in the c6's. I'm referring to normal track guys that attend hpde's or time attacks, nasa, scca. The c5's are typically faster and lighter.
Gotcha
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      03-29-2019, 09:36 AM   #34
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So what's everyone planning for mods this season? Here's my wish list...
  • Braille lightweight battery (current OE battery is shot anyway)
  • Stuffing 10" wheels and 275mm tires front and rear (will certainly require a mild fender roll)
  • Sunroof delete/CF filler panel (great way to drop 40+lbs where it really counts) - working with ECS Tuning to make one for the F30, but I could really use some help from an F30 owner local to Ohio!!
  • Seibon VS Carbon Fiber hood - only about 25# of weight savings, but better cooling and they look awesome
  • AutoPower roll bar - bolt-in rear cage to replace my current harness bar setup
  • Flash tune - more power is not a priority, but looking forward to linear throttle response and more headroom at high RPM
  • Wagner Competition FMIC (a must with the tune)
  • Oil catch can (also a must with the tune)

I will likely pull the trigger on the first 2 or 3 this Spring... not sure about the rest.
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      03-29-2019, 11:19 AM   #35
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how are those Braille batteries for daily use?
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      03-29-2019, 03:15 PM   #36
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how are those Braille batteries for daily use?
I don't have any first hand experience with them, but as I understand it, the biggest one (B3121) is fine. It's still only 21#, but has a 31 amp-hour rating, and 550 cold cranking amps.
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      03-30-2019, 11:44 AM   #37
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For this year, I'll be getting some 18x10 arc-8s and running 265 RE71s. I'll also be doing the rear subframe bushings...more than likely going with the delrin units from bimmerworld.

My autox season has already started so I'll be doing all this in between events.

Last edited by brigade24; 03-30-2019 at 11:45 AM.. Reason: corrections
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      03-30-2019, 12:16 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brigade24 View Post
For this year, I'll be getting some 18x10 arc-8s and running 265 RE71s. I'll also be doing the rear subframe bushings...more than likely going with the delrin units from bimmerworld.

My autox season has already started so I'll be doing all this in between events.
Interested to see how you will fit 18x10" ARC-8s since they are only offered in one offset that is suited to E46/E9x/F8x M3/M4
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      03-30-2019, 02:31 PM   #39
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Interested to see how you will fit 18x10" ARC-8s since they are only offered in one offset that is suited to E46/E9x/F8x M3/M4
Happy to share my logic and measurements with you.

according to my measurements the rear will not be a problem at all. The fronts will need a spacer and a fender roll. If I have calculated correctly given my spring rates, the car may also need to be raised approximately 4mm assuming camber is at -2 deg. Since I increase camber before every competition to -2.9, rolling the front fenders will still be required due to the arc8s 25mm offset will certainly be a factor. The section width will also be a factor. Suffice it to say it will be close in the front...

For perspective, the distance between my shock/spring assembly and the inner fender is approximately 269mm. the tread width of the 265mm RE71r is 246.38 mm (9.7 inches, courtesy of tire rack).

As a measure of insurance lets say the 10 inches for the wheel width is measured from the inner beads. So you can add a half inch for good measure so say 10.5 inches which is 266.7mm. Note that the wheel lines up with the shock and not the spring providing more clearance.

There should be enough room. I will be happy to share pics once its done.

This is what happens when autox becomes an obsession.

Last edited by brigade24; 03-30-2019 at 02:43 PM.. Reason: new measurements
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      03-31-2019, 08:45 AM   #40
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Joining in on this thread... I just tracked my F30 335i at Sebring for the first time last weekend and pretty hooked. I ran with KW Clubsport coilovers, stock M-sport brakes, Motul RBF600 fluid and Michelin PS4S tires. The car/tires held up great but I did lose some pedal along the way.

Future mods list in order (would love feedback):
  1. Track brake pads (not sure what brand/model and what rotors to run)
  2. F+R sway bars (brand undecided)
  3. Track wheel/tire setup (need guidance on wheel and tire width and offset and square vs. staggered)
  4. Bushings
  5. M-performance LSD

Thanks for the help guys.
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      04-02-2019, 12:48 PM   #41
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adding WMI currently for this season. LSD already on
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      04-03-2019, 11:32 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brigade24 View Post
Happy to share my logic and measurements with you.

according to my measurements the rear will not be a problem at all. The fronts will need a spacer and a fender roll. If I have calculated correctly given my spring rates, the car may also need to be raised approximately 4mm assuming camber is at -2 deg. Since I increase camber before every competition to -2.9, rolling the front fenders will still be required due to the arc8s 25mm offset will certainly be a factor. The section width will also be a factor. Suffice it to say it will be close in the front...

For perspective, the distance between my shock/spring assembly and the inner fender is approximately 269mm. the tread width of the 265mm RE71r is 246.38 mm (9.7 inches, courtesy of tire rack).

As a measure of insurance lets say the 10 inches for the wheel width is measured from the inner beads. So you can add a half inch for good measure so say 10.5 inches which is 266.7mm. Note that the wheel lines up with the shock and not the spring providing more clearance.

There should be enough room. I will be happy to share pics once its done.

This is what happens when autox becomes an obsession.
A man after my own heart....
I am planning the same; I haven't run the numbers as thoroughly as you, but have also determined that they should JUST make it : ) I currently have a set of Apex ARC-8s in 18x9.5 with RE-71R tires in 265/35, and it does seem like I could squeeze another 1/2" in there.
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      04-06-2019, 08:32 PM   #43
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How does -2 degrees camber front and rear look? I really like the meaty square look and the ARC8s will be the wheels I choose.
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      04-08-2019, 09:46 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DVC View Post
A man after my own heart....
I am planning the same; I haven't run the numbers as thoroughly as you, but have also determined that they should JUST make it : ) I currently have a set of Apex ARC-8s in 18x9.5 with RE-71R tires in 265/35, and it does seem like I could squeeze another 1/2" in there.
lol indeed, love this stuff. hmmm...some are saying that 10" is too wide for preservation of grip and at optimal temperature for the 265 so I wonder if the 9.5" would be more ideal. I took more measurements this weekend with the wheel fully cranked to one side and noticed the fender liner may need to be massaged a bit to fit a 275 at full crank...so since it is highly unlikely you'll be at full crank on the racetrack, it should be good. need to take more measurements to be sure.

On my way to Charlotte this past Friday, I stopped in Virginia to pick up my delrin subframe bushings from bimmerworld...Very cool place!. I also ordered some delrin bushings for the differential from Condor speed..I'm stoked to see the result.
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