01-02-2022, 01:38 PM | #155 |
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im_an_alien,
F30creeze, its okay, but manual transmissions have outshafts too. Maybe all the transmissions had play or lash at the outshafts? We closed out any other things, don't we? I would be curious for the following questions: Did anybody replaced the transmission anyway? Did anyone tested the play at the end of the transmissions? When we changed the driveshaft, we tried to hear the voice of the transmission (without driveshaft), and then we heard the strange noise and the transmission had vibration for a short time. But I don't know it is normal or not, because there was no load at the outshaft. When we set up the car by a lifting machine, and I took the car into "D" gear, the whole car was vibrated during acceleration from 80 km/h, but I think without chargeing, the transmission and the drive train doesn't get the proper circumstances tor work and that can cause vibration too. |
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01-02-2022, 01:54 PM | #156 |
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I'm not sure all the vibration complaints in this thread are the same issue.
So many variations on how the vibrations are manifest in different vehicles. Engine rpm, road speed range, through the chassis/seat, at the steering wheel, AT, MT, vehicle mileage, etc. Makes it so much more difficult to follow any specific fault finding path. |
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01-03-2022, 05:05 PM | #158 |
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When's the last time you checked motor mounts and or the transmission mounts? I got the same when my transmission mounts were gone. A swap to new transmission mounts (I went slightly stiffer) and the vibration went away. Looking at them isn't enough, you have to seriously take them off and if you can move by hand they are shot.
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05-16-2022, 03:53 PM | #159 | |
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05-16-2022, 04:59 PM | #160 |
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Rogue engineering.
Ecs has the best price for these in the USA. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-rogue-en...s-pair/tm~rog/
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07-11-2022, 10:17 PM | #162 |
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My experience with the propshaft in my 520d E60 2007 manual.
So, when I started to feel a strange sound coming from under the car, I decided to check what is going on, so I discovered the main bearing was completely destroyed. I dismantled the propshaft from the middle by removing the bolt and I left the car in gear so the front part of the shaft won't move as I knew it needs to be fitted in exactly the same position (it was my mistake as I could scribble a sign or mark it with a pen, but I didn't - BTW, BMW could mark the propshaft after balancing it), but after I replaced the bearing, a friend of mine decided to put the car on neutral so the shaft turned and I was unable to fit the rear side of the propshaft in the same position.
Since then me and this friend tried so many times to find the correct position of the two parts of the propshaft but we were unable to do it. At the time the car was suspended so we tried to fit the propshaft in one position, fit it back then run the engine at high speed, but the vibration was always there. In the end, we found a position (after 10 or 11 tries, as there are 30 different posibilities) when the car didn't seem to jerk at all so we put everything back and went on the motorway for a drive test, but the car appeared it will fall apart after 50mph. In the end we gave up, I found another propshaft on eBay which had a small dent on the gearbox side, I fitted it in and, surprisingly, the car drives superbly, much better than with the original propshaft. The point is: a "worn" propshaft will cause vibration in the car, specially at high speeds. The propshaft should be perfectly balanced by a professional who actually KNOWS what is doing. My assumption is that, in time, a propshaft will "unbalance" itself due to either high speeds, poor maintenance of the CV joint or the main bearing, etc, therefore should be balanced once in a blue moon if issues arises. Obviously, vibrations appear for multiple causes, like unbalanced wheels, wrong pressure in the tyres, poor maintenance of the driveshafts, etc., but I tried to describe the issue I had with my car, maybe it will be useful to you. So, bottom line, if vibrations start to appear in your car, think at the propshaft as a possibility of those vibrations, And check regularly the main bearing, it seems they have a tendency to fall apart after a certain milage, it is not an easy job to change it, you don't need many tools for that, but it will worth the effort if you care about your car. |
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07-12-2022, 06:49 AM | #163 | |
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01-03-2023, 02:49 AM | #164 |
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Guys is there any certain solution for that problem? I have very similar problem like wrotten ones. Vibration and booming starts around 90km/h and you feel it strongest at aound 115 km/h. You can also feel it at the steering wheel. Especially if the asphalt is smooth you feel it more probably thanks to other vibration and noises get less.
BTW what gear you are does not effect it, engine RPM and pushing the gas pedal does not effect too. Even I stopped the engine at 115 km/h and nothing has changed. |
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02-25-2023, 08:26 AM | #166 |
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Let me add my misery to it.
Thanks alien guy for suggesting this thread. I read all of your posts. It’s alarming to see many folks are having same problems and have tried to fix them, but still having issues. My car is 2017 430i manual transmission with 59k miles. Not a CPO, but have dealership limited warranty until 62k and extended warranty for 3 years/36k miles. Passed the ‘125’ pre purchase inspection at the selling dealer, hence the limited warranty coverage. 2 indys looked at it and gave thumbs up. One told me don’t drive too fast and I won’t hear the wop wop wop. Complained to BMW dealer and front driver wheel bearing was replaced. Tech confirmed no more noise. He is wrong. I pushed to 90 mph and humming/wop wop wop is still there. Took car to discount tires. No issues with tires but had them do road force balancing. Found one wheel with 32 lbs of road force and threshold is 35 lbs. Got that wheel down to 14 lbs. Wop wop wop noise is still there at 90 mph. Feels like it got little better but still there. Got alignment done and decent amount of adjustments performed. Tech test drove and the wop wop wop is just tire noise. Im just starting this journey into a dark, deep rabbit hole with y’all. New tires, fixing bent rims, new wheel bearing, road force balancing, and alignment didn’t fix it. Although it seems like it slightly improved but I really don’t fucking know at this point. I saw a post in here that someone pretty much changed out entire suspension and driveshaft and still got shafted with the noise. I feel for you and hopefully you sold that car by now. |
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02-25-2023, 08:28 AM | #167 |
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03-07-2023, 04:01 PM | #168 | |
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Hello,
I have changed the engine mounts, nothing changed...The gearbox mounts look good, they are not rigid or collapsed. Tomorrow I visit a ZF gearbox specialist, I hope he can say something "encouraging". The strange is that the voice doesn't change if I took the transmission into "N" gear position. By this way, there is no loud, something has to be changed under no pressure and loud... I have read many post about "humming noise" F30, and most of them were solved by repairing the undercoats or adjust them. Well, I dont't know. On the other hand, it is time to change the gearbox fluid, by me, it is the second time of change. I am curios about the colour of the fluid and the dirt in the oil filter and oil pan. Best regards, Daniel Quote:
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03-07-2023, 04:07 PM | #169 | |
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I have the mounts like these (see part nr.3 in the picture)...
Did you have the same parts, and changed for the aftermarket parts? Has anything changed? Quote:
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05-18-2023, 09:42 AM | #170 | |
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1- Transmission rebuild 2- Front/Rear Driveshaft replacement with after market (x3- they ALL failed in weeks) 3- Full resolution with EU made BMW OEM driveshafts OEM driveshafts come tapered and factory balanced by geometry. After Markets have masses, and they often came off. Garbage. A metallic, whirr humming noise could be driveshaft joint, and or transfer case. 90-120 km hr vibration, UP AND DOWN, steering wheel AND dashboard, was my front DS. Rear felt easy to the rear. Transmission was easy as the plates skidded with gear shifts (caused by faulty factory solenoids that BMW never recalled). And the pressure values shot up to attempt locking, and it worked better in the cold vs warmed up. Transfer case was also easy, in turn, or low torque (uphill) vibrations. That cost 6000$ CAD, it used to be 800$ the part. When all this was done, i still had a minor bouncing murmur, even in Neutral. Turns out Michelins Pilot Sport 4S flat out temperature relative and need to rewarm up to round. But the worse culprit of small odd vibrations was the failing adaptive M suspension. It bounces oddly with road surface. Felt at 20, 40 km hr vs driveshafts at 90-120. Transmission will not vibrate coasting in N esp downhill. Driveshafts would. For front driveshaft, touch the dashboard near the Center Console. If it vibrates, it is the front DS. Rear, any rear passenger can feel it. Then I had an odd HUMMMMM front left foot area... above 120 kms and vibrated the driver foot area. What it was the aero cover had bent, and was pointing down in one corner. As soon as BMW Head tech screw it in, for free. ISSUE GONE. With all this, car as good as new, barring me waiting for Bilstein EDC as we cannot find the rears... |
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05-18-2023, 11:55 AM | #171 |
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Use the NVH app in your phones app store. It's expensive, but it will find your vibration!
https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...hl=en_US&gl=US |
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08-07-2023, 04:02 AM | #172 | |
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Answer
Thanks your history!
I have a non Xdrive 330d F31 from the year 2012.07. I hear the "mmmm" noise from 115-130 km/h, the strongest and the loudest at 120-125 km/h. At this speed I feel a fine vibration on the steering wheel and under my seat, too. I don't know the failure causes these two sympthons toegeter, or they "independent" shakes and voices. I hear this voice when I take the automatic gearbox to "N" position, but if the road is rising and I push the gas, I hear it better. You wrote: "What it was the aero cover had bent, and was pointing down in one corner." Which cover was it? Can you show me on this draw? https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_8666 or https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_8667 I have already changed - the whole drive shaft (I have only the rear), - the differental, - the guibo (universal joint bolt hole) after the transmission, - the front wheel bearings, - the rear wheel bearing at the left side. Nothing changed. If we lift the car and push gas, from 110 km/h it shakes a lot. I don't know if it is because of the failure, or because of the lifting. Best regards, Daniel Quote:
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02-26-2024, 03:45 AM | #173 | |
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2016 330i LCI - 150k km Right Hand Drive - owned from new. I thought I'd share my experience just in-case it pieces the puzzle for someone else. Google landed me on page 5 of this thread and I read all of it to the last page (8). I noticed a couple of weeks ago that if I reached 120km/h I would get a vibration through the car, but not through the steering wheel. The vibration occurred only at 120km/h onwards, irrespective of RPM or gear. All of the reading was beneficial to me and I checked all the small items I could at home without using tools, mostly visual. I ruled out unbalanced wheels and engine issues just from experience - B48 going just fine. After reading Musashi's comments I went under the car and checked my aero panels and found a couple of suspect spots; 1) plastic/aluminium panel under ZF8 gearbox pan; and 2) front passenger side plastic panel (note i'm right hand drive). Number 1 had some warping in the aluminum around the visible edge on the driver's side. I massaged this so that there was more of a gap to the gearbox pan. Ultimately I think this needs to be replaced unless there is a way of increasing the stiffness. I doubt this repair addressed the problem though. Number 2 was not attached to chassis (but it would look like it from a far). Two of the four screws (last two towards rear of vehicle) were not fixed to the chassis, i.e. the nylon holes the screws fix into were stripped. I found some temporary screws (bigger than the stripped hole) and fixed the panel back to the chassis. Took it for a test drive and whala, vibration/buffetting gone. Therefore my summary of my problem was the passenger side aero panel was buffetting at high speed due to not being fixed in the middle of the panel. Later I found that it is possible to buy (and I presume replace) the nylon inserts. For the record - prior to fixing my problem I checked the following: - serpentine belt (visual), aircon on and off. - harmonic balancer (can't remember what BMW calls this) (visual while revving) - vibration absorber on rear subframe (visual and gave it a tug) all showed no distressing actions. |
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