[mbanks21]

Anyone have thoughts on 1 piece vs 2 piece rotors for 100% street use? Is it worth the money for 2 piece?

[beamymike]

Thanks for the write up @[Daggers]

I am looking to replace my pads in the next couple of months.

I have a 2013 328i. I am abit confused about the rear brake pads. I have been told different stories. Can i leave the car in P with the hand brake up to change the rear pads. I have been told i need a computer to override to release the brake pads or is this not true?

Can someone please confirm.

[Eschmacher]

Originally Posted by beamymike

Thanks for the write up @[Daggers]

I am looking to replace my pads in the next couple of months.

I have a 2013 328i. I am abit confused about the rear brake pads. I have been told different stories. Can i leave the car in P with the hand brake up to change the rear pads. I have been told i need a computer to override to release the brake pads or is this not true?

Can someone please confirm.

If you're only doing pads, you can leave the handbrake up. The handbrake is a drum brake inside the rotor. The computer bit you're referring to only applies to cars with electronic hand brakes.

[cbarlow]

@beamymike, here's the link to a video that I used as a tutorial when I did the rear brakes on my 2013 335i xDrive:

[phoizgood415]

BMW Dealership quoted me almost $2k to replace all 4 rotors and brakepads...

I decided it was time to learn to do it myself and save $1.3k

Did it myself last weekend thanks to this DIY guide.

My first time changing brake rotors/pads/sensors on any car....took me 6 hours from jacking up the car at 2pm to finish bedding the pads at 8pm..... and this was for just the two front rotors.... (I did spend an hour at home depot because I had to buy a pick tool to get the pins out)

But then again it was my first time and I was doing it by myself with limited tools, so I kind of took my time to make sure everything was done right.

Now I think the 2 rear rotors/pads will probably take me 3-4 hours this weekend.

Also for the others reading this thread, do not forget to pump the brakes a few times after putting the brake fluid cap back on. I nearly panicked and thought I did something wrong when there was no bite when I first started the car....

[beamymike]

thanks heaps for the advice beamer fambam

Now i just have to wait 3 weeks for the pads to arrive because its on back order. Gives me enough time to get all the tools ready haha

Excited to start working on my first eur car

[jshaff28]

Thanks for the write up very helpful!

Got the fronts done no problem, the rears all went fairly easily (minus a stuck lug nut)

But it appears both of my rears are now making a scratching noise as the wheel rotates. I cannot pinpoint what this is has anyone encountered that?

The noise goes away when the brakes are pressed, but when driving at ~30MPH it becomes apparent.

[Steakpizza]

Originally Posted by jshaff28

Thanks for the write up very helpful!

Got the fronts done no problem, the rears all went fairly easily (minus a stuck lug nut)

But it appears both of my rears are now making a scratching noise as the wheel rotates. I cannot pinpoint what this is has anyone encountered that?

The noise goes away when the brakes are pressed, but when driving at ~30MPH it becomes apparent.

Did you break in your brakes? I had some aftermarket ones that were noisy af, but after breaking them in they were fine with noise.

[jshaff28]

Originally Posted by Steakpizza

Did you break in your brakes? I had some aftermarket ones that were noisy af, but after breaking them in they were fine with noise.

I have not had a chance to do that yet, they probably have roughly 15 miles on them.

[E90xxxx]

Tried entering my Vin at https://www.mdecoder.com/decode/ and it didn't point me in the right direction.
Also entered in the Vin in Realoem.com and get the following back:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=34_1949

From what I can see on the car it's a BMW F30 Sport, 184bhp and it has blue calipers.

Can anyone help me identify which brake discs and pads I need?

Thanks,

PS is it okay to post my VIN?

[NYOreo23]

This guide will all work the same way even when doing a big brake kit upgrade right?

Awesome write up, definitely saved this thread.

[Ryan_Tran]

Thank Daggers. Nice post.
I have 1 concern. I am going to change my brake pad. Waiting for the tools to be arrived. For the from caliper seems we can get some space as we can adjust the steering wheel.
I am thinking how much space we have to the rear ? Do we have enough space for using a torque wrench which is approx. 18.3".
Thank you

[Tommi_Mav]

Originally Posted by indigochim

If you're careful and it's not already worn down you should be able to save your existing sensor it just clips into the pad.

If you already get the maintenance warning message, that means the sensor is already worn, so you have to install a new one. You can save the sensor only if you change the pads before you get the warning message.

[Tommi_Mav]

Originally Posted by Daggers

You'll need to push the caliper pots back into the caliper - there's a 'proper' tool for this (called a caliper rewind tool), but given how much it costs, and how easy it is to push them back in by hand if you're careful, that's the way to go in my opinion. Using your pry bar, push each pot into the caliper carefully - you'll notice the alternate pot on the same side will likely start to push out as the fluid transfers in the caliper. If you alternate between them, and use your fingers to hold the other pot down, you can slowly work both back so they are flush with the inside of the caliper. Do the other side of the caliper after the first side pad is in for ease.

I think it's simpler and much faster to push the caliper pots back by leaving the used pad on the caliper and use a C-type clamp to gradually push them back, so you don't have to push each pot individually. If you have a painted caliper, don't forget to use also a rag or a piece of rubber (like a piece from an old bicycle tube or tire) between the outer side of the caliper and the clamp to avoid any chips on the caliper paint.

After you finish the installation of the new parts and pumping your brake pedal, you forgot to mention that we also have to reset the on board computer through the secret menu using the trip distance reset button on the dashboard.

Other than that, thanks for the time to write all this up!

[SystemOfUrdaW]

is it absolutely necessary to replace sensor brake pads while changing pads and rotor???

[Gen13 F36]

Originally Posted by Aitom7

is it absolutely necessary to replace sensor brake pads while changing pads and rotor???

Just $9 - 12... just change it.

Akebono pads comes with sensor....and yes I get paid by akebono....i wish ....kidding

[Daggers]

Originally Posted by Aitom7

is it absolutely necessary to replace sensor brake pads while changing pads and rotor???

If the light has come on to say your brakes are low, yes. If the light is not on, then you have not triggered the sensor and it can be reused no problem.
I’ve only changed the sensor twice in my life as I’m generally well in advance of lad wear with my routine maintenance.

[M Smurf]

A couple things that might help others as I now have time on my hands to get them dirty! Changed my front pads last wknd for the first time ever. Youtube vids make it look easy.

Took the better part of a day trying to figure out how to get the calipers off the rotor. Once the 2 18mm bolts came off, the caliper did not slide off the caliper like all the vis show leading me to believe that there was something hidden that I was missing. Even some encouragement from a hammer didnt help!

If the rotor is even a little worn, there's a lip on the outer edge that the old pads wont clear. Had to pry the pads away from the rotor with a screwdriver. Boom! That was the biggest hurdle.

My C clamps werent big enough to push the piston back in. Autozone up the street has loner tools, Caliper tool, to use for free. Great resource.

Last thing, not a lot of clearance for a breaker bar in the wheel well. Use your smaller ratchet and a few taps to the handle with a rubber mallet should get it started.

After all this, next time should be take me 90 minutes tops. Easy.

[Gen13 F36]

So far i heard that the first time changing brands pad or rotor... those bolts are hard to remove. BMW factory tightened it so much... so the advice is to plan with a little extra time.

[gippy]

i thought i'd add to this just for anyone else...

the job is super simple.........UNLESS you have a fu*kin corroded/seized rotor screw. Which as it turns out is a really common problem after looking at youtube.

It has been a ballache to get it out, after watching a ton of youtube vids i tried a hex head remover kit (useless), then a M8 spline bit to hammer in, ended up rounding it off even more. I then tried a bolt extractor set - and turning it with an adjustable wrench. Didn't work, mainly because the thread is so seized that you just ended up rotating the hub round even if you try holding it with your other hand.

in the end the only solution was to drill it out. That involved first removing the head.
drill a pilot hole, using cutting oil, then keep going up in 0.5-1mm increments.
I started with the head and stripped that off - that allows the disc to come out.
Then have to keep going with the thread stuck inside, 2, 3, 4, up to about 7.5mm.
Luckily the thread in the hub was still intact and i could put in a new rotor screw.

Chances are if your car is 3 years old or more and subject to british weather, these stupid screws have corroded in, and the moment you try untightening them with a 6mm hex, you'll round off the top just like i did.

Anyway, the lesson is - addendum to the OP:
- before you remove the brake pads - use a pipe to hold some brake pressure wedged against the seat (or get someone to push the brake pedal) - and try and get the rotor screws out first before doing anything else.

once they're out (about 3 days of running around chasing parts and solutions)...the rest takes about 20 minutes tops.

i used autodoc for the brake pads and discs (brembo + zimmerman zcoat) - usually always discounts on, and with the Zcoat you don't have to mess around cleaning the rotor.

to save future hassle, ECS tuning and turner motorsport do stainless steel screws which don't corrode, but its in america and to order a set of 4 in the UK is £30.

In addition - if you don't have an EZjack like the OP and you're working with axle stands like us poor folk - it is worth getting the front of the car high up, just so you can get the torque wrench into the right position to correctly torque up the new caliper bolts.
I also replaced the bolts/rotor screws with new ones as per ISTA instructions.

Which was also annoying because i guess after 2016 BMW started using Torx head, not normal 6 point, so i had to buy an appropriate socket set.

[Daggers]

Easiest thing to do in that situation (if you’re replacing rotors anyway) is to simply grind the head off the screw. If you leave the screw “shaft” in place, or not, it doesn’t matter. The new disc is held in place by the wheel bolts anyway. That screws job is just to stop the disc rotating as you put the wheels on (to make it easy to align the wheel bolts / disc / hub). So if you leave the stub of bolt there for the replacement disc, you’ll be lined up still. The screw is basically useless anyway!

[Onizukachan]

Originally Posted by Daggers

Easiest thing to do in that situation (if you’re replacing rotors anyway) is to simply grind the head off the screw. If you leave the screw “shaft” in place, or not, it doesn’t matter. The new disc is held in place by the wheel bolts anyway. That screws job is just to stop the disc rotating as you put the wheels on (to make it easy to align the wheel bolts / disc / hub). So if you leave the stub of bolt there for the replacement disc, you’ll be lined up still. The screw is basically useless anyway!

And a lot of the time once the pressure is off it, it will turn right out by hand or with a channel lock type wrench.
I drilled one out with a big bit, and such was the case once it was done.