10-12-2018, 03:06 PM | #1 |
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100k mile marker maint.
I'm currently about 160 miles from hitting the 100k mile marker. So far the car has been awesome. As far as maintenance I have done oil, brake fluid, coolant, brake pads and transfer case. What major/minor or any maintenance should be done at the 100k mark?
Somethings I've been considering on doing. EGR clean or delete auto transmission fluid transfer case fluid (how often? I got the whole thing replaced recently) When is the____ due? timing belt/ chain water pump any particular hoses ERG clean, change, or delete any sensor change? anything with fuel system components coolant intervals (BMW says lifetime) Would be great to keep it short and simple so others coming up to 100k can do the same. Ill be reviewing the Bentley's book this weekend to update the thread. Thanks guys! |
10-13-2018, 07:57 AM | #3 |
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I was on the website and they do recommend 8 years at the latest but also state that under normal conditions the oil should last the normal service life of the vehicle so that may be why bmw says lifetime. Depending on how you drive this may not be the case however. The oil change process has specific steps so you have to do it correctly to prevent damage to the transmission. I would try to take it to a zf service center if you can find one near you but you can also purchase their oil change kit and diy being careful to follow the steps exactly. The oil has to be at the right temp and you're supposed to run it through certain gears under no or light load at certain rpms to fill the torque converter and other parts. Over and under filling can lead to problems.
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10-22-2018, 06:36 AM | #4 | ||
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10-22-2018, 07:04 AM | #5 |
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You must replace pan every time the bottom drain is opened. Or else it will leak, not to mention that the drain strips very easily. The pan has the filter in it, so again, it must be replaced at a service.
Not sure where Bentley gets their info, but that is wrong. With the original BMW instructions easily available online, I wouldn't go anywhere near that book, but that's just me. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/ When changing the pan, be aware that there is a specific torquing pattern and procedure.
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10-22-2018, 09:43 PM | #7 |
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They really tried to bend you over. Hard.
I would be seriously offended. I could definitely see a quality/boutique BMW indy charging a thousand for this job but 3k is absolutely, positively not even close. Run. |
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10-23-2018, 05:53 AM | #9 | |
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As far as the filter in the pan though I don't notice one from the sites and pics but why would Bentley not swap the pan if it had a filter? Doesn't make sense.IMO it just looks like plastic I don't see anything that resembles a filter. Any other input on other components? |
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10-23-2018, 09:56 AM | #10 |
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I had bought a ZF 8HP transmission kit about 9 months ago on special for $200.
Genuine ZF pan with built in filter, new bolts, and 7 liters of LiquiMoly. You can fit under 5 liters in the transmission when doing the pan. Not a terribly hard job, but you should be on a somewhat leveled lift, be able to do the correct torquing procedure, and have a pump to put oil in. You need to use a diagnostic tool to monitor temperature to make sure filling level is correct. I am curious on recommendations for cooling system refresh. I will probably start hunting down prices on those components. Change before they go bad. I am at 84,000 miles now. I would anticipate changing the crankshaft pulley/dampener around 100,000 miles along with accessory belt. My windshield cowling is starting to deteriorate, so I am going to replace that too.
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10-23-2018, 06:20 PM | #11 | |
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11-27-2018, 11:34 AM | #12 | ||
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Two different trans temps available in the sensor values section. |
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11-30-2018, 09:03 PM | #13 |
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12-05-2018, 01:56 PM | #15 |
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If you are considering draining and replacing the ZF transmission fluid be aware that there is a specific process. Short version :
Drain fluid. Remove pan if there is a transmission filter - apparently not all AT units have a filter. Replace filter if required; refit pan. Refill transmission with fresh fluid. Drive the vehicle on the road according to a specific cycle, using all of the gears for predetermined periods. Drain the transmission fluid again. Refill with fresh transmission fluid. Repeat the road test process/cycle. Ensure and test for gearbox adaptations through the process. According to BMW and ZF it's not as simple as 'drain fluid and replace'. I elected to have the AT fluid changed at ~60K miles. The fluid was dark, but not burnt. The car is driven enthusiastically and does 2-3 track evenings each year.
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12-05-2018, 02:07 PM | #16 | |
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Dealer or Indy? How much was the cost? |
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12-05-2018, 02:41 PM | #17 | |
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Yeah I'd like to know info on this also, dealer or indy ? Rough cost ?
Been looking around recently as I want to get my ZF serviced, sitting at 85k just hoping I'm not to late so not to cause issues rather than it being beneficial as want to keep the car longer term! I have been quoted £450.00 from a local transmission specialist, but need to enquire regarding method used. Quote:
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12-05-2018, 02:43 PM | #18 | |
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Bearing in mind that the process requires the AT to be drained and filled twice (decent AT fluid isn't exactly cheap) and the no-quibble recourse to BMW if there were any resulting problems, this was good value to me.
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12-05-2018, 02:47 PM | #19 |
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Going back to your original post, I'd also have the inlet manifold removed and cleaned and the inlet ports walnut blasted. No amount of fuel additive cleaners or inlet aerosol sprays are going to remove carbon/sludge.
I had the IM and ports done on my 30D a couple of weeks ago, 82K miles, and the build-up was getting quite heavy. Here's a link to my post and pics : https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1560517
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12-05-2018, 02:51 PM | #20 | ||
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Either way, for that money - the DIY may not be worth the headache and stress (especially considering parts are at about $350 alone). And, like you said - if something fucks up afterwards, then they were the only ones to have touched it since factory and therefore may have some liability. Im at 64k miles. |
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12-05-2018, 03:17 PM | #21 | |
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Not only is it not nessecary to do a drain fill drain fill cycle but this leaves out the very important fill method via trans temp monitor and gear cycling without the wheels moving. |
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12-05-2018, 05:29 PM | #22 | ||
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Per ZF, there is no step including filling, then draining, then refilling again. Actually have never heard of that with any trans fluid change. ZF trans fluid (which I assume is "decent" as theyre the manufacturer) is cheap. There's a video on their website on changing our transmission's oil. It's short.
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