02-25-2015, 07:52 AM | #45 |
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I have the front lip on m sport suspension, no issues besides scraping a few times on the bottom from very steep driveway curbs. Anyway, the only issue I had was the center post on the lip. I didn't use betalink, and the screw eventually started coming out. At high speeds, the pressure would start to separate the post from the car. I ended up putting a screw back in with sealant on it and it's been holding so far.
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02-25-2015, 08:13 AM | #46 | |
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02-25-2015, 09:19 AM | #47 | |
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Problem with Betalink if you use it on the entire piece you will not get it off 9xs out of 10 without destroying the bumper/paint. With these lips as low as they do sit, the chances of having to replace one is pretty high. All it takes is something in the road that is just high enough to grab it that might have fell off a truck. If you use the method I mentioned on how to apply the tape, the tape is just as strong except it can be taken off without damaging the paint or bumper. Just something to consider. These are really like throw away parts like Squid said. For the center, you can use a large thread screw, but it would be very easy to use a bolt with a locking nut for more strength. |
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02-25-2015, 09:37 AM | #48 |
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Is that what that s*** was on my painted bumper when i tried to replace my lip?
Whatever that was, that stuff is nasty, and actually, i couldn't get all of it off. It dries to an unbelievably hard crust on the painted bumper, and even a stiff plastic trim tool couldn't pry it off. It leaves a very unusable surface for the next lip you are gonna install. The ironic thing is that it sticks unbelievably well to the painted bumper, but not so much to the polypropolene lip. I found that the extra strength 20#/sq in double sided tape is a way better alternative (along with the 3m adhesive promoter) - doesn't leave a weird un-removable residue behind. Double sided tape can be removed with Goo Gone, IPA, and good ol fingernails. Again, i'm not sure that stuff was betalink, so... |
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02-25-2015, 09:50 AM | #49 |
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thank you..what tape application method are you referring to? I must have missed it.
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02-25-2015, 11:30 AM | #50 | |
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02-25-2015, 11:35 AM | #51 | |
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http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...1071465&page=2 |
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02-25-2015, 12:24 PM | #52 | |
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02-25-2015, 04:33 PM | #54 |
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M splitter drop
How much of a drop is the front splitter? Would someone mind measuring from the center of the bumper and from the edge of the bumper, so we can get an idea of the drop, no matter what suspension we have? I think that would be really informative to those of us contemplating the splitter.
I agree with most of you here...it really does make the front of this car. |
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02-25-2015, 06:13 PM | #55 | |
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02-25-2015, 06:19 PM | #56 | ||
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Alpine White M Performance F32 428i - Exhaust conversion + More. Check out my build
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02-25-2015, 07:14 PM | #57 | |
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For my stock suspension, from the ground to the bottom-most part of the lip, it was 5". For my lowered car, its now 2.5". I found that the edges of my lip (and not the center) are the lowest part of the lip, and thats where i measured from. |
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02-25-2015, 08:09 PM | #58 | |
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The yellow highlights shows where on the inside of the Selma lip apron there is already some pre-applied thin doubled-sided tape. I just used that as-is but i guess Dippy replaced it altogether? When he mentioned applying it to the vertical part of the apron, i put a strip on that far edge of it (red highlight). I don't know if thats where he put his, but thats where i put mine. And then for good measure, i put a big long straight piece across the top of the inside of the apron as well (top red highlight), since that is the main part that comes in contact with the bumper. Before attaching lip to bumper, my procedure was: 1) Clean as much pre-existing guck off the painted bumper where the tape would come in contact with it using whatever means you have. I used goo gone, 70% ipa (thats not india pale ale ), and whatever other tools you have to leave as clean and smooth of a surface as possible. 2) use sand paper to the inside part of the lip apron (not bumper) where the the double sided tape will be applied. clean with IPA until all the dust, particles, and residue from sanding are gone and surface is clean. 3) apply/spray the 3m adhesive promoter to the area inside the lip apron (again, not bumper) where the double sided tape will come in contact with. 4) attach one side of the tape onto the surface of the inner lip apron. 5) repeat for the other side |
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02-26-2015, 08:54 AM | #59 | |
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02-26-2015, 09:20 AM | #62 | |
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Here is the tape that I recommend and the adhesive promoter pads. There are several types of adhesive promoters but this one is the cheapest because you do not have to buy a jar of it. Goes for like 12 bucks delivered on Amazon for 4 pack which you will need 4 pieces as they dry pretty quick. That's if you redo all the tape already applied on the lip which I do strongly suggest. You will see how easy it is to peel off the factory tape because they use a lower grade and the mold releasing agents are still on the plastic. This will prevent the warping people get, even on the OEM lips. |
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02-26-2015, 12:33 PM | #63 |
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That's what I thought, so if the lip on the edge is only 1/2" thick, aren't you really only dropping the front end by 1/2" compared to without the lip?
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02-26-2015, 01:19 PM | #64 |
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02-26-2015, 02:32 PM | #66 |
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You're assuming stock suspension. I have coilovers which lowers the entire car by pretty much however low you want to go.
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