[auburnf30x]

Originally Posted by M Smurf

How so? Parts are suprisingly affordable and plentiful and labor cost/hr is roughly the same at an Indy shop.

Transmission fluid replacement is the only cost that raised an eyebrow...so far

+1. My last car was Asian (Nissan Maxima) and I DIY’ed everything on it, also. Only things I’ve found more expensive on the bimmer are spark plugs, transmission servicing, air filters, and oil filters. And of those, the only one with a difference large enough to cause pain is the transmission, because it requires replacing the pan and filter. Still, $200 every 50k miles for the bimmer vs $75 every 40k for the Nissan isn’t a big deal.

Some things are actually cheaper, including in another resource: time. Serpentine belts, tires, brake pads, rotors, ignition coils, shocks, and struts are all cheaper in part cost than the Nissan. This is assuming replacing OE with OE type parts, not upgrades.

And again, time. Replacing the spark plugs on the bimmer is a one beer job. The Nissan required removing the top half of the engine. Oil change on the Nissan required removing the passenger wheel. Among others.

The bimmer has its challenges, no way to avoid it. But it’s not nearly as bad or expensive as people are led to believe. As long as you stay away from the dealer.

[bavarianride]

Originally Posted by auburnf30x

The bimmer has its challenges, no way to avoid it. But it’s not nearly as bad or expensive as people are led to believe. As long as you stay away from the dealer.

Dealer prices may not be too bad, e.g. I paid $50 to $95 tax included with BMW oils + filter during 1-hour waits.

For old models(e.g. E39/E46/E60/E90) the dealers also have great prices for brakes(pads only or pads+rotor), spark plugs, brake fluid + coolant specials, etc, etc.

Do note some of these prices are set by BMWNA per market area to compete with Japanese brands and indies, owners just need to pay attention when these show up.

[auburnf30x]

Originally Posted by bavarianride

Dealer prices may not be too bad, e.g. I paid $50 to $95 tax included with BMW oils + filter during 1-hour waits.

For old models(e.g. E39/E46/E60/E90) the dealers also have great prices for brakes(pads only or pads+rotor), spark plugs, brake fluid + coolant specials, etc, etc.

Do note some of these prices are set by BMWNA per market area to compete with Japanese brands and indies, owners just need to pay attention when these show up.

To be fair, I’m basing this on the one time mine went to the dealer, and they charged me $190 to change the cabin air filter!

I mean, they held all the doors open for me on the way out and left a nice cold bottled water in the car for me, but...geez.

[F30lolz]

I owned a 2013 328i purchased new in 2015 with 26 miles on the clock. Dealer changed the battery and the oil since it was sitting for a good two years. At 31k miles I traded the car in for a e90 335. Right before trade in, I could hear that the TC was probably on its last legs. Someone mentioned that the TC/guides is overblown and I tend to agree. I’m currently on my third n20 variant and even though my first n20 probably did have TC/guide issues, I would just have a PPI performed if the car isn’t from a BMW dealer for peace of mind. If it’s from a BMW dealer, will they offer a warranty (ie 30-90 days)? Maybe have them inspect the TC/guides and ask if they can do the job if there is slack/whine/cracks on the guides.

[bavarianride]

Originally Posted by auburnf30x

To be fair, I’m basing this on the one time mine went to the dealer, and they charged me $190 to change the cabin air filter!

I mean, they held all the doors open for me on the way out and left a nice cold bottled water in the car for me, but...geez.

Yeah I changed wiper blade($10 a set, 2mins), air filter($5, 5 mins), cabin filter($30, 15 mins with experience) myself.

FYI it took me 45 mins. to change F30 cabin filter the first time, the panel must be reinstalled exactly right.... And DIY time is not $0 cost.

It is up to the owners to explore the most cost and time efficient ways to get things done.

[Rockinryan2424]

Originally Posted by cristuphur

I've been looking to get a 2013 BMW 328i, but have been hesitant on whether or not to because of how much people criticize them for being unreliable or expensive to maintain. The model I'm looking at has about 55k and I already went to check it out as well as gotten the carfax and it seems clean. I plan on going back to the dealership to test drive as well as generally check it out again, and wanted to know what are some issues to look out for when I go back. I also wanted to get some other perspectives/opinions on things to be aware of when owning a BMW before I actually make a decision so feel free to share your experiences if you've owned one. Could be anything from maintenance cost, reliability, and just general pros/cons and tips when owning one. Thanks! (btw this is my first time posting here and I am unfamiliar so if I am in the wrong subforum please feel free to redirect me)

78k only problem I've had with it was a rear caliber freezing up other then that has never let me down these cars are reliable there's just a few bad apples and the bad ones scream louder then the good ones

[MPSdriver]

Originally Posted by bavarianride

Wow, ZF 8AT, transfer case, engine, those are the most expensive parts of F30! In comparison turbo +TC + oil pump is minor issue ....

Do u track the car?

Is it possible the shop didn't do the TC job right and caused the crankshaft grinding?

And can the transmission job cause issues with transfer case?

You are very brave to still own the car.

I've never tracked the car and I go relatively easy on it. I wanted to mod it al little: lowered suspension, different wheels... but chose against it to avoid issues (TC) and expensive repairs
It's a manual transmission btw, part of the reason I still drive the car today
All the subsequent failures could indeed be related but I have no means or evidence to proof that they are so I'm letting it go. BMW did give serious discounts on parts but then again for some parts they have no competition so you can't really verify the quoted prices e.g. the small block was quoted at €14k but I got it installed for €5.5k.

To the OP and as I've said before, I probaby got unlucky. Only issue I would keep an eye out for are the chains (timing and oil pump).

[CarlosC]

Just under 158k miles on my 2012 328i. I did replace the turbo at about 120k miles (~$3k), but other than that, it just been regular maintenance stuff (brake pads, rotors, fluids, etc). I do change the oil about every 7k miles. Car runs great.

[fluke]

2013 328xi, purchased in late 2016 as a CPO. I've had the turbo and the timing chain replaced before 60,000 miles. Both were covered under the warranty. No other mechanical failures but those would have been very expensive repairs had it not been for the warranty.

[heifetz17]

I bought my 2013 last October with 68k on it, but full service records all the way back to 20k. I had every fluid in the car changed at 70k (as maintenance). I now have 76k on it and haven't done anything else in my ownership so far. It's been a fantastic car, but I also know almost the entire service history of it.

I plan to change the timing chain and guides in about 20k miles before my extended warranty is up just as a precaution.

[MHF30]

Originally Posted by MPSdriver

I'm driving a F30 328xi that was bought new in 2013. I had been driving free of any trouble up to 117k km before I got into trouble:

• At 117k km (73k miles) the transmission had to be replaced as the reverse gear couldn't be engaged anymore.
• At 119k km (74k miles) the transfer case had to be replaced (vibration issues).
• At 127k km (79k miles) the turbo needed replacement due to an oil leak (yellow CEL) and I had both the chain for timing and oil pump replaced due to excessive whining (like a chainsaw )
• Three days after I got the car back the car throws a red CEL for low oil pressure. I got the car towed and diagnosed with a thrust bearing failure. As a result the crankshaft had grinded the engine block so I had a short block installed.

I'm currently at 148k km (93k miles) with only some minor issues since (interior is starting to wear).

I'm definitely one of the less lucky ones when it comes to reliability but I wouldn't buy a second-hand 2013 328i unless it came with serious extended warranty.

That's rough, how much did each item set you back in terms of cost? I'm a little concerned about my transfer case as well, at low RPMs between 1000-1500 there's vibrations from the rear of the vehicle when accelerating. If I switch it to sport plus though where RPMs are constant over 2k it drives fine. Did you experience something similar?

[MPSdriver]

Originally Posted by MHF30

That's rough, how much did each item set you back in terms of cost? I'm a little concerned about my transfer case as well, at low RPMs between 1000-1500 there's vibrations from the rear of the vehicle when accelerating. If I switch it to sport plus though where RPMs are constant over 2k it drives fine. Did you experience something similar?

I stumbled on your reply, I missed it earlier, sorry.

Costs for the repairs (approx. incl. taxes):
Manual transmission: €2.500
Transfer case €2.500
Turbo charger: €3.000
Chains: €1.650
Small block: €5.500

For the big repairs (trans, TC & engine) we got a serious discount on the parts and we got a (core) refund for the damaged parts. I don't believe the 'new' transmission/transfer case were truely brand new, more like 'refurbished' but they came with standard 2 year warranty.

I had (still have) vibaration issues (~90km/h independant of rpm/gear) which got diagnosed as a faulty transfer case. The vibrations didn't reside after the repairs. The TC was however faulty but I just hadn't realised it. There were some symptoms (none vibration related) but I wrongly accused the traction control system for them.

I hope you had better luck hunting your gremlins

[chuckles01]

I think this has been said before, but there's likely a little bit of luck and really depends on how well the previous owner took care of their car.

As for my experience, between me and my partner we have owned two F30s - a 2012 328i 8-sp auto and a 2014 328i manual. I still have the'14, but we traded in the '12 for a bigger car as our needs changed. Both have been very reliable. In fact of all the cars we've owned, they've been the most problem-free.

The only problems I've had on my '14 has been the horn and the door lock. I did have one issue when I first picked up the car with the gas sensor - when filling up, the pump would pop too early before the tank was fill, and after they replaced a gas sensor under warranty, it's been fine.

In the time that we owned the '12, we've had no problems. However, one thing I did notice having both model years is that the 2012 was the first model year, and you can tell they had made tweaks to the car by the time my '14 was produced. The '14 was slightly quieter in terms of suspension noise, road noise, had better steering weight (the '12 was overly light in comfort mode), even little things like the sound the power door locks make. Generally speaking, I try to avoid the first one or two years in a model because companies may iron out kinks here and there.

Prior to the BMWs, I've owned an Accord V6 6-sp coupe (bought new) and a Nissan Maxima (bought used). I had a ton of mechanical problems with the Nissan, but maybe that's cause I got it used and the previous owner didn't take care of it. The Honda was my biggest surprise - the transmission and clutch master cylinder kept having problems, the interior had a lot of rattles, and ultimately the engine blew up at 70-ish K miles. I didn't track, tune, or otherwise drive the car aggressively.

[adhrp]

The OP is asking about 2013, but thought I would chime in about my 2012 328i. It has been nothing but reliable. I have spent under $1k on repairs/diagnostics with 131k on the odo now, and the majority of my expenses (amounting to about $7.5k) have been on routine maintenance, including big ticket items such as suspension refresh at 100k. The turbo wastegate is malfunctioning now, so I bought a reman turbo and am getting it installed for a total cost of $1200. So all in all, under $2.5k in 'repairs' and about $6-7k in maintenance. Not bad at all.

[alfa A]

I have a 320i and wish I'd got the 328i. Everything just slightly uprated and stronger

[pearlpower]

My 2013 has been one of my more reliable cars. Apart from a wastegate adjustment at 92k miles, my drivers seat heater is not as hot as it once was, and comfort access is a roll of the dice. I did the timing chain and rod bearings (since I was in there), and all seals at 95ish'K miles. I have owned Lexus's more reliable, and some less reliable than my 328i.

Now at 122K JB4 Stg 1 miles. My headlights are showing stress cracks and I should replace them before selling the car.

[cchriss]

I'm driving my F30 328i N26 that was bought new in 2013, currently at 83K miles exact. The car has been great so far. I keep up with the maintenance and oil change every 5k. I decided to tune and run full bolt on stage 2 starting at 65k miles. I replaced my timing chain/guide to be safe since I plan on driving it for a while.

Things I had to replace:
Battery around 65k miles
Radiator cracked 65k miles
Coolant Tank and Timing chain 72k miles

No complaints here

[jmg]

I had a 2013 328i and 7 BMWs since then.

A 2013 Lexus is250, the 328i's Japanese competitor in its segment, is about $5k more used.

Why?

Maintenance.

I loved my F30 328i. RWD, still a driver's car despite what the E90 owners say, handles good, etc. Compared to the somewhat soulless and boring is250, the 328i is more desirable from many perspectives except cost of ownership. You are going to pay for the experience.

BMW uses cheap plastics where they should use composites. They are over-engineered to the point of being more expensive to fix. That's just the reality. Be prepared to pay.