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      05-08-2023, 05:54 AM   #1
PJ Gross
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lower control arms...

So these lower control arm bushings can leak! One side down. The hardest part was removing the little clip for the headlight leveling without destroying it.

Did the the lower middle arms too, while apart. Just stick replacements, and new axle bolt so all is tidy.

-PJ
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      05-10-2023, 09:17 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PJ Gross View Post
So these lower control arm bushings can leak! One side down. The hardest part was removing the little clip for the headlight leveling without destroying it.

Did the the lower middle arms too, while apart. Just stick replacements, and new axle bolt so all is tidy.

-PJ
You used a press? Isn't it easier to just replace the whole control arm?

Been wondering if mine are going since I hear a slight clunk sometimes when I reverse and have wheel turned. Also the car has been pulling left and right on uneven roads.
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      05-12-2023, 08:37 AM   #3
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No. I purchased new front and lower arms and axle bolts through fcp auto.
Easy in, easy out. Passenger side took about an hour since I knew what I was doing and no headlight sensor.
Now just an alignment.

Interestingly, passenger side bushing was dry rotted and severely cracked but not leaking. My clink was fixed when the above driver side leaker was fixed.

All 4 ball joints were solid but for the cost it was easy to replace all 4 arms and call it a day.
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      05-12-2023, 09:18 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PJ Gross View Post
No. I purchased new front and lower arms and axle bolts through fcp auto.
Easy in, easy out. Passenger side took about an hour since I knew what I was doing and no headlight sensor.
Now just an alignment.

Interestingly, passenger side bushing was dry rotted and severely cracked but not leaking. My clink was fixed when the above driver side leaker was fixed.

All 4 ball joints were solid but for the cost it was easy to replace all 4 arms and call it a day.
When would you hear those "clinks"? And also is there any way to visually see if any of the bushings or control arms are bad without lifting the car? Thanks!
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      05-13-2023, 06:30 AM   #5
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See my first picture. Get a flashlight and on the inner side (car side) of the long c shaped control arm, the arm itself will have black fluid around the big car side bushing. You might need to remove a few 8mm screws on the splash pan to pull it down to check.

On very low speed bumps, coming in and out of my driveway, I was getting a clicking or clunking noise from the front end.

For me it was only 1 bad bushing and after replacing, the entire front end tightened up
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      05-16-2023, 12:03 PM   #6
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When would you hear those "clinks"? And also is there any way to visually see if any of the bushings or control arms are bad without lifting the car? Thanks!
In my personal experience, I always start with checking the stabilizer bar end links first and only then move onto the control arms if there are no visible leaks around the control arms' bushings.
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      05-22-2023, 02:31 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PJ Gross View Post
So these lower control arm bushings can leak! One side down. The hardest part was removing the little clip for the headlight leveling without destroying it.

Did the the lower middle arms too, while apart. Just stick replacements, and new axle bolt so all is tidy.

-PJ
I just did this with Meyle HD thrust arm replacements myself, I have xDrive so I had to do the axle bolt as well. It was about a 2.5 hour job total after doing the struts and shocks. I didn't want to get into bushing press crap especially with the price comparison/work/effort. With Bilstein B6 adaptive dampers the thign rides amazing now, and I won't have to worry about fluid leak with the aftermarket control arm bushings.
I need an alignment, scheduled this week.

Last edited by Markoff Chaney; 05-22-2023 at 02:45 AM..
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      05-22-2023, 02:48 PM   #8
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Hey, what hardware did u replace with the bilsteins? That will likely be the next item on my list but wasn’t sure what should be replaced with the dampers. There are various kits around. Thanks
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      05-24-2023, 01:38 AM   #9
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The biggest deal with doing the struts and shocks/adaptive dampers was getting the right tools on top of the appropriate harware. There are a few good youtube tutorials combined with the Bentley Manual, you kind of get a good gauge on what you will need for the entire job.
You will need the Schwaben pass through sockets ranging from 18-24
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...e/003046schkt/
I highly reccommend some tutorials online, you will struggle getting the front strut out and back in doing the method that is non BMW laid out by this guy

He lays out all the torque specs etc, kinda misses or glosses over a few choke points, but overall is a good explainer.
The pass throughs and counterholds are necessary.
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      05-24-2023, 01:41 AM   #10
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Main hardware you replace with the dampers are bolts and nuts that should come with your new set. The main issue is torquing to spec, and if a bolt or nut doesn't come with your "OEM" parts kit, you will have to dig that up on your own using the usual OEM online parts catalog. The hardest part was spreading the old strut with the right tool, and then clamping that same one back down after.

If you have adaptive dampers THERE IS A SENSOR ON THE FRONTS THAT WILL NEED TO BE SWAPPED OVER, EACH SIDE. It has a little QPC code looking thing on the side that faces the business end and will come off the old dampers when you replace. That is a 200$ sensor, don't fuck it up!
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      05-24-2023, 11:33 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Markoff Chaney View Post
... you will struggle getting the front strut out and back in doing the method that is non BMW laid out by this guy
Just FYI, the non-BMW method worked just fine for me a week ago on my XDrive/EDC fronts when I've replaced stock springs with Eibach XDrive lowering springs on my driveway. Absolutely no need to release the axle bolt.
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      05-25-2023, 03:09 PM   #12
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Thanks!
I hadn’t reviewed the method but I’m comfortable with what I have seen. I have the “auto parts store” spring compressors and they have worked fine for me in the past. Non-BMW method will be what I use.

Likely the B6 with stock springs for me.
Daughter will take over the GT some day and a bit of ground clearance isn’t a bad thing for snow, steep drives, curbs (ouch), etc.
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      05-29-2023, 08:19 AM   #13
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Quote:
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Thanks!
... and a bit of ground clearance isn’t a bad thing for snow, steep drives, curbs (ouch), etc.
That's the reason why I went with XDrive springs (front only) and not RWD springs (still light reverse rake present with stock OEM rear springs). - The car would become too low at the front for winter driving with drop springs intended for RWD cars.
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      05-30-2023, 12:42 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oksamit78 View Post
Just FYI, the non-BMW method worked just fine for me a week ago on my XDrive/EDC fronts when I've replaced stock springs with Eibach XDrive lowering springs on my driveway. Absolutely no need to release the axle bolt.
I had to do the axle bolt for the control arms but not the shocks and struts. Even then I still ripped the driver side CV joint boot a slight bit trying to wiggle in the thrust arms/lower front control arms and the indie shop saw it when doing the alignment so I still ended up paying for 3 hours of labor on the total of dampers and control arms. Such is the way when learning as you go.
A 180$ alignment became a 770$ job because I was getting the alignment done the day before driving from Denver CO to Carlsbad NM, and I am very happy I found a decent trustworthy indie shop that takes good care of DIY bimmer idiots like myself. He sent the pics of the leaky boot and I had to get to NM next day or there would be a very unhappy Wife. You can see the Meyle HD thrust arm, and the shiny new B6s, splattered with axle grease..

Last edited by Markoff Chaney; 05-30-2023 at 12:59 AM..
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