[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by Manboy

Going with the theme of keeping the engine bay as cool as possible, I'm considering getting a CF vented hood, and having it painted in body color. Having the heat escape through hood vents should theoretically reduce heat or at least cut down the time it takes for the engine and the components to cool down?

I really want to make sure I have heat under control before I go completely nuts with the engine and start chasing 350whp - 380whp.

That seems like a smart way to go about it. I would imagine a vented hood would at least do something to keep the engine bay cooler, not sure how much exactly it will do. But, oil cooler, FMIC, colder plugs etc. are all great measures. Sounds like you're doing it right!

[marcozen]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

The N20 OEM LPFP doesn't respond well to E30+ mixes and stresses out the pump over time. This isn't to say that a stock pump can't push E30+ but it certainly can drive down the lifetime. As a preventive measure, most of us just replace the pump to prevent any issues.

Thanks BunkerJ.
Just noticed that DINAN is selling upgraded fuel pumps.
https://www.dinancars.com/product/r4...ded-fuel-pump/

But I dont know if its a HPFP or LPFP.

[marcozen]

Originally Posted by jamesf30n20

On another note, a commonly looked over reliability measure on these cars is heat, keeping the engine cool as possible is important. Heat wrapping your down pipe to keep the heat in the exhaust and out of the engine bay, and insulating your intake and intake box, gold foil around the back and bottom of the intake box and foil around the lower intake pipe connecting to the turbo inlet pipe, that pipe is right next to the block with nothing blocking the heat from soaking into it.

Is it safe to heat wrap the down pipe ? Wont that cause cracks ?
U tried it so far ? Any pictures ?

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by marcozen

Thanks BunkerJ.
Just noticed that DINAN is selling upgraded fuel pumps.
https://www.dinancars.com/product/r4...ded-fuel-pump/

But I dont know if its a HPFP or LPFP.

That's the LPFP. I think someone was making an upgraded N20 HPFP but I haven't seen any news recently.

[marcozen]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

That's the LPFP. I think someone was making an upgraded N20 HPFP but I haven't seen any news recently.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/e/p...uine-bmw-part/

Apparently BMW has released revised designs for HPFP;

---- start excerpt ----

This is the latest Genuine BMW high pressure fuel pump (HPFP) for the N20/N26 and N55 engines found in the F22 2-series and F3X 3/4-series.

BMW has made several revisions to the HPFP to fix 'Drivetrain Malfunction' faults, stalling, stumbling, and other drivability issues. When these pumps fail the car immediately goes into limp mode. The failure has little to no warning and can happen even while driving. The car may not restart or if it does the engine will run extremely rough.

The previous BMW part numbers for this pump were 16117297778 and 16117414482. Those have been discontinued for this latest version which is supposed to be a better design.

This item fits the following BMWs:
2014+ F22 BMW 228i 228iX M235i M235iX
2012+ F30 BMW 320i 320iX 328i 328iX 335i 335iX - Sedan
2012+ F31 BMW 328i 328iX - Wagon
2014+ F34 BMW 328i 328iX 335iX - Gran Turismo
2014+ F32 BMW 428i 428iX 435i 435iX - Coupe
2014+ F33 BMW 428i 428iX 435i 435iX - Convertible
2014+ F36 BMW 428i 428iX 435i 435iX - Gran Coupe

---- end excerpt ------

So the issue is the HPFP in the F30 ? Not the LPFP ? Kindly correct me if I am wrong.

Also ...

The LPFP only comes into play when the fuel levels are low ?

[marcozen]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

Yeah,I learned about the turbo for sure haha. Pushed it at 23 and seals started to give after 15k miles. Just slapped a new one in.

How did you notice the seals failed ? Smoke ?

[sspade]

BunkerJ

Did you replace with a stock turbo?

Install yourself?

[marcozen]

Originally Posted by D041987

I think with Rod bolts and bearings on the stock engine you will be fine at 350WHP mark. I would not cross the high 300 TRQ range though. Torque will kill the motor. Hence why I capped mine at 350WTRQ. I was pushing over 420TRQ for a while but did not want to blow it up.

This is 350 wtq in ft-lb right ? So approx 474 Nm?

[marcozen]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-det...?RecordID=1114

Exactly what i was looking for ..These work for the N20 ?
We just order 1 kit ? 3 bolts per piston ?

[marcozen]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

Great so far. Noticed a little bit of a difference up top with the Stage 2 tune but we'll really see her shine with a custom tune. Hopefully, I can give you an update this summer.

Did u lose any low end torque ?

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by marcozen

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/e/p...uine-bmw-part/

Apparently BMW has released revised designs for HPFP;

---- start excerpt ----

This is the latest Genuine BMW high pressure fuel pump (HPFP) for the N20/N26 and N55 engines found in the F22 2-series and F3X 3/4-series.

BMW has made several revisions to the HPFP to fix 'Drivetrain Malfunction' faults, stalling, stumbling, and other drivability issues. When these pumps fail the car immediately goes into limp mode. The failure has little to no warning and can happen even while driving. The car may not restart or if it does the engine will run extremely rough.

The previous BMW part numbers for this pump were 16117297778 and 16117414482. Those have been discontinued for this latest version which is supposed to be a better design.

This item fits the following BMWs:
2014+ F22 BMW 228i 228iX M235i M235iX
2012+ F30 BMW 320i 320iX 328i 328iX 335i 335iX - Sedan
2012+ F31 BMW 328i 328iX - Wagon
2014+ F34 BMW 328i 328iX 335iX - Gran Turismo
2014+ F32 BMW 428i 428iX 435i 435iX - Coupe
2014+ F33 BMW 428i 428iX 435i 435iX - Convertible
2014+ F36 BMW 428i 428iX 435i 435iX - Gran Coupe

---- end excerpt ------

So the issue is the HPFP in the F30 ? Not the LPFP ? Kindly correct me if I am wrong.

Also ...

The LPFP only comes into play when the fuel levels are low ?

That's the LPFP... Not sure why Turner has an LPFP labeled as an HPFP as well as the HPFP part # lol...

HPFP: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=13_1417

What it looks like: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...r/13518604229/

Originally Posted by marcozen

How did you notice the seals failed ? Smoke ?

Yes. We had it up on the rack and were testing after a DV+ install and when revving, noticed smoke coming out of the turbo. It was likely just some burnt oil since I didn't have the upgraded oil line before that but the fact that it was coming out of the seals showed a small leak which would've eventually grown.

Originally Posted by sspade

BunkerJ

Did you replace with a stock turbo?

Install yourself?

Install was done by my buddy who is a master mechanic. We went ahead and put in the upgraded oil line that has a return valve, that way you don't have any oil dripping into the turbo while it's parked. MHI is a direct bolt-on and should only take half a workday or so.

Originally Posted by marcozen

Exactly what i was looking for ..These work for the N20 ?
We just order 1 kit ? 3 bolts per piston ?

Yes, these work for the N20 and you order only one kit. Only two bolts per piston since the con rod cap only has two.

Originally Posted by marcozen

Did u lose any low end torque ?

Nope. All this upgrade does is unlock your high-end flow rate, so you're not struggling.

[marcozen]

BunkerJ --- is the MHI Turbo ball bearing type ?

Also did u consider the unit from Mosselman Turbo ?
https://www.mosselmanturbo.com/shop/...turbo-upgrade/

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by marcozen

BunkerJ --- is the MHI Turbo ball bearing type ?

Also did u consider the unit from Mosselman Turbo ?
https://www.mosselmanturbo.com/shop/...turbo-upgrade/

MHI is still a journal. It's basically the OEM turbo, just a little bigger. If you're looking to push higher #s, then I'd definitely go with a bigger turbo like D.

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

MHI is still a journal. It's basically the OEM turbo, just a little bigger. If you're looking to push higher #s, then I'd definitely go with a bigger turbo like D.

With a turbo like the MHI unit, is a custom dyno tune required? I feel like because it's so similar to the stock turbo, it could just be run with an OTS map no? I'm not really in the market, but in case my turbo does go, it'd be nice to know. Really what I'm asking is could I run MHI on the OTS Stage 2 93 AGG map by BM3...

[marcozen]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

MHI is still a journal. It's basically the OEM turbo, just a little bigger. If you're looking to push higher #s, then I'd definitely go with a bigger turbo like D.

BunkerJ, if its a Journal Bearing type, wouldn't the bigger compressor wheels
introduce more lag ?

Your dyno would have shown your torque curve shifting up? Stock torque starts out at about 1250 rpm ? What does yours start out at ?

Thanks in advance.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

With a turbo like the MHI unit, is a custom dyno tune required? I feel like because it's so similar to the stock turbo, it could just be run with an OTS map no? I'm not really in the market, but in case my turbo does go, it'd be nice to know. Really what I'm asking is could I run MHI on the OTS Stage 2 93 AGG map by BM3...

I still run an OTS but it's definitely not optimized. A custom tune would not only allow for more power naturally (As in, OTS maps are slightly neutered anyhow) and then to take advantage of having the better top end.

Originally Posted by marcozen

BunkerJ, if its a Journal Bearing type, wouldn't the bigger compressor wheels
introduce more lag ?

Your dyno would have shown your torque curve shifting up? Stock torque starts out at about 1250 rpm ? What does yours start out at ?

Thanks in advance.

A dyno would definitely tell us how far it has shifted but I can tell you that I personally don't feel any difference in terms of lag compared to the OEM turbo.

[marcozen]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

A dyno would definitely tell us how far it has shifted but I can tell you that I personally don't feel any difference in terms of lag compared to the OEM turbo.

Thanks for the clarification.

What are your current whp and wtq ?
Possible to post your dyno here ?


Update - He will do a dyno later with all his mods.

[Manboy]

There are lot's of turbo upgrade options but what about software to take advantage of the bigger turbo? Does anyone know who to contact once a bigger turbo is installed?

My plan was to go to ESS for both SW and hardware, but they no longer offer a turbo upgrade kit for the N20, nor are they interested in tailoring and mapping my ECU for it.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by Manboy

There are lot's of turbo upgrade options but what about software to take advantage of the bigger turbo? Does anyone know who to contact once a bigger turbo is installed?

My plan was to go to ESS for both SW and hardware, but they no longer offer a turbo upgrade kit for the N20, nor are they interested in tailoring and mapping my ECU for it.

You could go to any tuner who would give you a custom. HCP (Ran by Halim who heads up the BM3 OTS maps) is a great option and so is BPC.

[carbon428i]

How much hp do you guys think I'm pushing? Mods listed in signature.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by carbon428i

How much hp do you guys think I'm pushing? Mods listed in signature.

A good ballpark is going to be 270-290whp.

[Manboy]

Originally Posted by Diegov209

Quick question how do you like your throttle body spacer?

I like it. there is no whistle sound which is good. I believe the claim is improved throttle response and slightly more hp and tq. I feel zero change in throttle response from the spacer but there might be more pick up at low and mid rev range.

If could recommend one cheap mod to get it would actually be an air scoop for our cars. I don't know if I made any power but there was a huge difference in throttle response after installing the air scoop. I know it sounds silly but Its not in my head. there is a difference.