[jamesf30n20]

Hey guys, im looking for some insight on the differences between the compressor sizes on the n20 stage 2 turbos.
I’m aware the stock Cast compressor wheel is 42mm
And the MHI turbo is 56mm
Dinan and purr turbo do not state the compressor size. Only that the compressor is billet.
Are all exhaust turbines on the turbos the same size as stock?
I wouldn’t mind having a little more lag at low rpm to avoid bending my rods.

I’m looking to buy one, mhi sees to be the best priced. But price isn’t everything.

[F30328iN202013]

From my notes....


*Note the sheet may not be clean. There could be errors, do your due diligence. Also, Delta (Comp ind&Turb ex) refers to this: http://turbolabofamerica.com/turbo-upgrade-2/ ).*

[BunkerJ]

Great sheet ^

Depends on your goals. MHI alone will not shift your torque much. MHI is great for the simplicity of it as it's a direct bolt-on and decently priced. Get a custom tune with it and have them push it right. An OTS map alone isn't going to get you to the rod throwing stage.

If your goals are to make more power (A lot more) and you plan to build the car, get a bigger turbo.

Otherwise, stick with something that's going to give you a better flow rate and keep you under 24PSI. Another reason I went MHI.

[jamesf30n20]

Originally Posted by F30328iN202013

From my notes....


*Note the sheet may not be clean. There could be errors, do your due diligence. Also, Delta (Comp ind&Turb ex) refers to this: http://turbolabofamerica.com/turbo-upgrade-2/ ).*

Awesome list thanks.

[jamesf30n20]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

Great sheet ^

Depends on your goals. MHI alone will not shift your torque much. MHI is great for the simplicity of it as it's a direct bolt-on and decently priced. Get a custom tune with it and have them push it right. An OTS map alone isn't going to get you to the rod throwing stage.

If your goals are to make more power (A lot more) and you plan to build the car, get a bigger turbo.

Otherwise, stick with something that's going to give you a better flow rate and keep you under 24PSI. Another reason I went MHI.

My goal is 380-400hp at the wheels. I’m stage 2, 23psi. I’m aware of all the supporting mods for our engine, but I need a turbo that cans get me to the 380-400 range. Purr advertised 382wheel on 24psi and E25 but if i could make those numbers with less psi that would be better.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by jamesf30n20

My goal is 380-400hp at the wheels. I’m stage 2, 23psi. I’m aware of all the supporting mods for our engine, but I need a turbo that cans get me to the 380-400 range. Purr advertised 382wheel on 24psi and E25 but if i could make those numbers with less psi that would be better.

You could bump up your ethanol content as well. I wouldn't push 24PSI personally. 23PSI will be my max as to give a buffer.

[oremag2014]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

Great sheet ^

Depends on your goals. MHI alone will not shift your torque much. MHI is great for the simplicity of it as it's a direct bolt-on and decently priced. Get a custom tune with it and have them push it right. An OTS map alone isn't going to get you to the rod throwing stage.

If your goals are to make more power (A lot more) and you plan to build the car, get a bigger turbo.

Otherwise, stick with something that's going to give you a better flow rate and keep you under 24PSI. Another reason I went MHI.

I have an 2016 220i the less power n20 Did FBO and a custom tune with Etuners to ensure more HP and well that didn't go well

On the dyno the numbers where

Stock NO JB4 (With FBO) = 167 WHP

FBO with JB4 map 5 = 231 WHP

FBO custom Etuner tune= 242 WHP


My target was somewhere around 280WHP no ethanol, I was planinng on buying now the MHI N20 big turbo which doesn't look THAT agressive it actually looks like and oem turbo but with better response and more capable of handling boost, Do you guys think that if I upgrade the turbo and do a conservative tune to 270 - 280 ish whp, forged internals would be required?

[MaverickCruise]

Originally Posted by oremag2014

I have an 2016 220i the less power n20 Did FBO and a custom tune with Etuners to ensure more HP and well that didn't go well

On the dyno the numbers where

Stock NO JB4 (With FBO) = 167 WHP

FBO with JB4 map 5 = 231 WHP

FBO custom Etuner tune= 242 WHP


My target was somewhere around 280WHP no ethanol, I was planinng on buying now the MHI N20 big turbo which doesn't look THAT agressive it actually looks like and oem turbo but with better response and more capable of handling boost, Do you guys think that if I upgrade the turbo and do a conservative tune to 270 - 280 ish whp, forged internals would be required?

I suggest purchasing TTE400

In my opinion, without ethanol, forging interior for 280WHP is necessary. This is like buying insurance, if there is a knock, the stock parts will definitely be damaged. Forged components can withstand occasional knocking during tuning without damage, and replacing worn out components together will give you a nearly brand new engine.
Otherwise, you may lose the engine during tuning and wait for lengthy repairs

[sqwinny]

Originally Posted by oremag2014

I have an 2016 220i the less power n20 Did FBO and a custom tune with Etuners to ensure more HP and well that didn't go well

On the dyno the numbers where

Stock NO JB4 (With FBO) = 167 WHP

FBO with JB4 map 5 = 231 WHP

FBO custom Etuner tune= 242 WHP


My target was somewhere around 280WHP no ethanol, I was planinng on buying now the MHI N20 big turbo which doesn't look THAT agressive it actually looks like and oem turbo but with better response and more capable of handling boost, Do you guys think that if I upgrade the turbo and do a conservative tune to 270 - 280 ish whp, forged internals would be required?

Ditch the jb4 for bm3 and you’ll make close to 270-280whp on 93 only. Its seriously that much better.

Also list your mods. You’ll need EVERY PART to get close to 270-280 whp.

[oremag2014]

Originally Posted by sqwinny

Ditch the jb4 for bm3 and you’ll make close to 270-280whp on 93 only. Its seriously that much better.

Also list your mods. You’ll need EVERY PART to get close to 270-280 whp.

Ok so this is the mod list on the 220i


CTS Intake
VRSF DP
MAD FMIC
MAD CHARGE PIPE
FTP INLET
MAD BOOST PIPE
CTS COILS
2 STEP COLDER NGK PLUGS
JB4
custom exhaust straight from down pipe no restrictions
and the Etuners Tune that gave me only like 10 more whp

am I missing any bolt ons?


I have no problem switching to BM3 and running 95ron

[sqwinny]

You need bm3. That’s what you are missing. Seriously

[oremag2014]

Originally Posted by sqwinny

You need bm3. That’s what you are missing. Seriously

I think I will give it a go and let you know how it went.

Thanks

[kontol babi]

Originally Posted by MaverickCruise

I suggest purchasing TTE400

In my opinion, without ethanol, forging interior for 280WHP is necessary. This is like buying insurance, if there is a knock, the stock parts will definitely be damaged. Forged components can withstand occasional knocking during tuning without damage, and replacing worn out components together will give you a nearly brand new engine.
Otherwise, you may lose the engine during tuning and wait for lengthy repairs

+1

[kontol babi]

Originally Posted by jamesf30n20

Hey guys, im looking for some insight on the differences between the compressor sizes on the n20 stage 2 turbos.
I’m aware the stock Cast compressor wheel is 42mm
And the MHI turbo is 56mm
Dinan and purr turbo do not state the compressor size. Only that the compressor is billet.
Are all exhaust turbines on the turbos the same size as stock?
I wouldn’t mind having a little more lag at low rpm to avoid bending my rods.

I’m looking to buy one, mhi sees to be the best priced. But price isn’t everything.

go with TTE400,almost zero turbo lag and can held boost pretty well at higher rpm it also sounds very great . they simply the best option to go as for now , unfortunately there's no bigger PnP turbo for N20 as for now if you want bigger turbo you need to do some custom job and i don't think it's worth the time and effort for a N20 , just to keep in mind
stock N20 can't handle boost over 24 psi for a long time, you need to upgrade your piston and rods then it will be fine as long you kept boost under 30 psi , over 30 psi that open deck of N20 will start to cause some issue . also important note after you upgrade stg2 turbo is that octane , you will easily find your engine is very octane limited on 98 , this N20 engine hate 98 octane for livin 8 deg of timing + 24psi of boost you will start to see some timing correction if your IAT is over than 110f and you will not be happy with the gain from 98 tunes because it's very octane limited if your only plan is to do 98 then this stg2 turbo upgrade is simply a waste of money , you will start to have some smile on your face once you start ran Emix tune , if you want to go any higher than E30 you will need to change the HPFP TO B58TUHPFP it's 90%PnP to N20 then you good to go up to E60 . for E85 you need to change the injector to S63TU injectors but , there's the big but here
if your car is older something like 2012/2013 your ecu might not be tune able for these injectors they simply don't have the table for tuner to edit that , you need to speak with your tuners about this so he could check your dme's ROM to make sure it's tune able with this injectors

hope this helps you
feel free to ask a question mate
thanks

[kontol babi]

Originally Posted by oremag2014

Ok so this is the mod list on the 220i


CTS Intake
VRSF DP
MAD FMIC
MAD CHARGE PIPE
FTP INLET
MAD BOOST PIPE
CTS COILS
2 STEP COLDER NGK PLUGS
JB4
custom exhaust straight from down pipe no restrictions
and the Etuners Tune that gave me only like 10 more whp

am I missing any bolt ons?


I have no problem switching to BM3 and running 95ron

go with TTE400,almost zero turbo lag and can held boost pretty well at higher rpm it also sounds very great . they simply the best option to go as for now , unfortunately there's no bigger PnP turbo for N20 as for now if you want bigger turbo you need to do some custom job and i don't think it's worth the time and effort for a N20 , just to keep in mind
stock N20 can't handle boost over 24 psi for a long time, you need to upgrade your piston and rods then it will be fine as long you kept boost under 30 psi , over 30 psi that open deck of N20 will start to cause some issue . also important note after you upgrade stg2 turbo is that octane , you will easily find your engine is very octane limited on 98 , this N20 engine hate 98 octane for livin 8 deg of timing + 24psi of boost you will start to see some timing correction if your IAT is over than 110f and you will not be happy with the gain from 98 tunes because it's very octane limited if your only plan is to do 98 then this stg2 turbo upgrade is simply a waste of money , you will start to have some smile on your face once you start ran Emix tune , if you want to go any higher than E30 you will need to change the HPFP TO B58TUHPFP it's 90%PnP to N20 then you good to go up to E60 . for E85 you need to change the injector to S63TU injectors but , there's the big but here
if your car is older something like 2012/2013 your ecu might not be tune able for these injectors they simply don't have the table for tuner to edit that , you need to speak with your tuners about this so he could check your dme's ROM to make sure it's tune able with this injectors

hope this helps you
feel free to ask a question mate
thanks

[MaverickCruise]

Tte400
50.6/68 6+6
46/52 9

I'm runing