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      07-28-2020, 10:45 PM   #1
rhmarquez
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Replacing Differential Fluid

I'm at 84k miles and plan on replacing the differential fluid on my 435i non-xdrive. I'm trying to figure out which fluid to use. I see FCP Euro has Liqui-Moly, and what looks to be two variants of BMW-branded fluid. One of them has P/N 83222295532 and comes at $59 the 500mL bottle, while the other is P/N 07512293972 at $25 for 1 Liter. That's quite a price difference considering I need roughly about 1-1.5L. Which one is the correct liquid for my diff?
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      07-29-2020, 06:14 AM   #2
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I'm pretty sure that realoem.com has the spec fluid you need...or it might be newtis.info

My rear diff in my xDrive takes Hypoid G1

Anyway, probably the more expensive fluid is the right one.
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      07-29-2020, 07:58 AM   #3
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I agree with dmaxdmax , mine required a very smelly Hypoid Gear Oil, which was required on RealOEM. That would be the best source. I decided to go with OEM recommendation instead of aftermarket, despite OEM being extremely more expensive than alternatives.
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      07-29-2020, 03:25 PM   #4
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I just took mine in today earlier, got both front and rear diffs fluids changed at a local indy shop called: Aktiv in Maryland. Cost me: $185 ish out the door (labor + parts,etc)..The SA told me that the rear was really dirty and the front not as bad, i only have less than 46k miles, if i keep her i am gonna do these diff changes every 30-35k for now on. It didn't take them very long like an hour or so..

Nxt job is the transfer case, he said it will take them about 2-3hrs max to get this job done, forgot to ask how much, lol..
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      07-29-2020, 03:33 PM   #5
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I did mine a while back with the LiquiMoly GL5 75W-90 gear oil. Haven't run into any issues in the 33k+ miles since.
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      07-29-2020, 03:38 PM   #6
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I did mine with motul gear 300 since I had some extra quarts lying around
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      07-29-2020, 03:52 PM   #7
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With these open differentials I would not be as concerned. LSD and other locking differentials... much more critical
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      07-29-2020, 04:14 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5 View Post
With these open differentials I would not be as concerned. LSD and other locking differentials... much more critical
LSD's usually require different fluid, in most cases.

Lockers, probably not on a BMW, but they still have splines, aka gears.

So it's probably more critical since there's less heat dispersion.
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      07-29-2020, 04:54 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deviantspeed View Post
LSD's usually require different fluid, in most cases.

Lockers, probably not on a BMW, but they still have splines, aka gears.

So it's probably more critical since there's less heat dispersion.
My point was just that there's more friction in locking, even semi locking, differentials vs. open. I have clutch plates out of my 525 that look like there was no oil at all.
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      07-29-2020, 04:59 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5 View Post
My point was just that there's more friction in locking, even semi locking, differentials vs. open. I have clutch plates out of my 525 that look like there was no oil at all.
But there's more heat dissipation. Enjoy your silence.
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      07-29-2020, 05:24 PM   #11
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I just bought this kit off FCP

Pretty cheap, planning to do every 50k.
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      07-29-2020, 05:45 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jh_f30 View Post
I did mine a while back with the LiquiMoly GL5 75W-90 gear oil. Haven't run into any issues in the 33k+ miles since.
I was looking primarily at that one (Liqui Moly). But saw its G5 instead of the factory one which is G1. To be honest I don't even know what the G number means, but would assume it has to do with viscosity... Would I be ok with Liqui Moly 75W90? Also is there any way to know if my 14' 435i m-sport has either open diff or LSD? Do they come from the factory only open diff, no lsd option?
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      07-29-2020, 09:52 PM   #13
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      07-29-2020, 10:17 PM   #14
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by sspade View Post
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I think I'm going to end up getting this Red Line. On their website they state they're a suitable replacement for the P/N listed on RealOEM...
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      07-31-2020, 12:12 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhmarquez View Post
I think I'm going to end up getting this Red Line. On their website they state they're a suitable replacement for the P/N listed on RealOEM...
My bmw technical manual says gl5 for a 2023 328i rwd. You need 1.25-1.5 quarts. I too got LiquiMoly GL5 75W-90 gear oil and a new plug. It takes a 14mm hex. 60nm or 45 ftlbs of torque. Part 33117525064 comes with o ring.
Youíll need a hand pump to get the oil out no drain plug. Says to fill until full. I did mine at 90k and looked like it was needed.
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      07-31-2020, 12:24 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fazi13 View Post
My bmw technical manual says gl5 for a 2023 328i rwd. You need 1.25-1.5 quarts. I too got LiquiMoly GL5 75W-90 gear oil and a new plug. It takes a 14mm hex. 60nm or 45 ftlbs of torque. Part 33117525064 comes with o ring.
Youíll need a hand pump to get the oil out no drain plug. Says to fill until full. I did mine at 90k and looked like it was needed.
Thanks for the info! I think I'll be going with the Red Line fluid, so I'll be ordering two bottles of it tomorrow. I just need to make sure my car doesn't have an LSD (which I doubt, but just to be sure) since the previous owner was a petrol head. When you performed the service, how did you raise the car? Was it level, or is that pretty much negligible?
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      07-31-2020, 01:45 AM   #17
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I did it while i was doing my brakes so i had all 4 wheels up. I’m sure you can just lift up the rear. Sure it’ll fill a tiny bit more but bmw says to fill it til it drips, not very precise haha. Also the rear jack point is the rear diff. Jack it up from the black part of the diff, not the silver part which is the casing and will crack. There’s a slight flat area where it’s good to jack. If you don’t have a jack with rubber pad, get a rubber pad. I don’t recommend using a hockey puck, those aren’t made for cars.. you can snap it in half then ur car will drop 1/2” onto your jack and could damage something.
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      07-31-2020, 02:57 AM   #18
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Oh hey another thing you might want to replace is the serpentine belt aka drive belt and belt tensioner. Those i think can go bad around 80k+ (it’s not the timing chain) and it’s a real easy fix. Kies Motorsports has a video on it now. I’d recommend the part from FCP Euro since they offer lifetime replacements/warranty on all their parts (including wear and tear such as brake pads and air filters oil filter etc.) highly recommended. I purchased brake parts and filters etc once in the 8 years I’ve owned my car lol
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      07-31-2020, 10:19 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fazi13 View Post
Oh hey another thing you might want to replace is the serpentine belt aka drive belt and belt tensioner. Those i think can go bad around 80k+ (it's not the timing chain) and it's a real easy fix. Kies Motorsports has a video on it now. I'd recommend the part from FCP Euro since they offer lifetime replacements/warranty on all their parts (including wear and tear such as brake pads and air filters oil filter etc.) highly recommended. I purchased brake parts and filters etc once in the 8 years I've owned my car lol
Thanks! Just did that one like 1,000miles ago with a whole lot of other preventative maintenance items. The only one's missing are differential and transmission fluid for now. And around December, changing brake rotors, pads and fluid.
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      08-01-2020, 12:10 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhmarquez View Post
Thanks! Just did that one like 1,000miles ago with a whole lot of other preventative maintenance items. The only one's missing are differential and transmission fluid for now. And around December, changing brake rotors, pads and fluid.
Nice, donít get Akebono pads. I cheated out and got them since people said it was ďgoodĒ. Way worse brake feel. Get oem on FCP and replace them for free haha. (Not a sponsor just love the free replacements... saved me lots) I sold the Akebono for like $50 after I drove em for a week. And if you donít have it get the motive power brake bleeder. Worth the $50 it costs. I did the brake fluid in 10m by myself (+time to jack and take off wheels)
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      08-01-2020, 12:16 AM   #21
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Quote:
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Nice, donít get Akebono pads. I cheated out and got them since people said it was ďgoodĒ. Way worse brake feel. Get oem on FCP and replace them for free haha. (Not a sponsor just love the free replacements... saved me lots) I sold the Akebono for like $50 after I drove em for a week. And if you donít have it get the motive power brake bleeder. Worth the $50 it costs. I did the brake fluid in 10m by myself (+time to jack and take off wheels)
Definitely! FCP is the way to go with these cars. Love them. Really? I was planning on getting the Akebono and was excited due to their low dust characteristic. How exactly did it feel?
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      08-01-2020, 12:33 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhmarquez View Post
Definitely! FCP is the way to go with these cars. Love them. Really? I was planning on getting the Akebono and was excited due to their low dust characteristic. How exactly did it feel?
Kinda felt like you had to press further before the brakes start to bite. Like another 1/4Ē before you feel it start to brake. Once it does bite it does feel oem but I didnít like that you have to press further. Felt like I was driving a Buick suv or something under braking.

To help the brake dust I did diy ceramic coat my wheels with carpro stuff. I wash my car every other week or so and itís not too bad by then. My black car by then already needs a wash due to dust etc so I say itís manageable.

Zimmerman rotors are good though. I went with the drilled ones in the front (FCP doesnít have em for the rear) but the look cool and since theyíre free to replace I just do rotors during every brake job. I think drilled rotors crack/squeal if not replaced more often which is a problem for non FCP euro customers haha

Oh and one more thing donít make my mistake, replace the rotor Allen screw and the caliper bracket bolts and caliper pins. Mine were a tad rusty even tho I live in Cali and the rotor screw didnít look safe to put back on. So I had to buy em at the dealer...
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