10-22-2020, 12:36 PM | #1 |
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F30 steering rack repair kit installation
Hi guys, when trying to fit the replacement (the improved version) it gets stuck at the last 10% - have tried tapping with ratchet but it won’t go in?
Any ideas or help would be greatly received Thanks! |
10-22-2020, 01:24 PM | #2 |
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newtis (when it was free to access) showed the need for a 'special tool' which appeared to be nothing more than a guide sleeve which screws into the thread where the sealing cap is eventually seated.
I assumed, as maybe you did as well, that as the housing for the new/improved thrust block (with the two o-rings) is simply a straight sleeve that the thrust block would just slide into place. One thing to check - the V in the end of the thrust block has to be aligned with the rod inside the rack. If you imagine the rack in front of you and aligned left-right, and you were looking straight down into the thrust block enclosure, the V in the thrust block has to be aligned the same way (3/9 o'clock, not 6/12 o'clock).
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10-22-2020, 01:41 PM | #3 |
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Many thanks for the advice Watsey, when taking the old block out I kept an eye on the orientation, and as you say, it was indeed 3/9 o’clock positioning. With that in mind I’d positioned it accordingly, I even tried wiggling it in, but it keeps getting stuck at the same spot, perhaps I should try more grease?
I thought I’d done the hard bit of getting access to it and taking it out but clearly I was mistaken:-( |
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10-22-2020, 04:15 PM | #4 |
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I'm all ears as to how you get on with this - I hope you get (or have got) it sorted, and let us know what the knack is.
I bought exactly the same part and was planning to fit it this weekend.
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10-22-2020, 05:32 PM | #6 |
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10-22-2020, 05:42 PM | #7 |
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The special tool may be tapered internally so as to compress the o-rings ready for the restricted internal diameter of the steering rack chamber. Did the first ring slip in ok ?
Also, have you worked out what the two steel bands (in the repair kit) are used for ? I haven't a clue :
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10-22-2020, 06:10 PM | #8 | |
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Quote:
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10-23-2020, 02:51 AM | #9 |
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gippy really useful vids - thanks. The first one ("BMW steering rack fix") makes it very clear, and I love the use of "Master Technician" in that vid
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10-23-2020, 08:45 AM | #11 |
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Thanks peeps for the advice and videos
Not been able to have another go today so will try again tomorrow, I don’t have any big pliers so thinking to use a G small clamp to press the final bit in (not with too much force!) - fingers crossed |
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10-25-2020, 01:17 PM | #13 |
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Quick update and some learnings
1. The G clamp worked method worked, only needed a small push 2. Once in, I later realised the replacement top cap didn’t fit my 3 pin tool, so I reused the old top cap 3. Remove the front wheel, it would make the job a lot easier and you get more access, as space is fairly tight 4. With the replacement block in, it still doesn’t (well for mine anyway) reach all the way to the bottom, so screwing the top cap with the spring load is hard to put back on. So I screwed the top cap back on without the spring, tightened all the way, that pushed the block all the way down, then unscrew and re-screw back on but with the screw on this time, it makes it a lot easier this way. 5. I tightened all the way with half a mil protruding 6. I only took after the under-tray off, taking it all off probably would of made it easier |
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10-25-2020, 02:03 PM | #14 |
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Glad to hear you got it done.
Did it cure the knocking ?
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10-25-2020, 03:15 PM | #16 |
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Great news. I tried simply tightening the existing block and although just 1/8th of a turn on the cap did quieten the knocking it also caused stiction in the steering so I backed it off. I'll replace the block at some point during half term - hopefully the redesigned unit will be quieter (having two o-rings will obviously stop it rattling around) and the new slip guides should also provide a better surface-surface contact with the internal steering shaft.
Fingers crossed.
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Current : F31 330sD, remapped, Ohlins Road & Track, Millway camber plates, Quaife LSD, Stoptech brakes + Pagid RSL1 pads all round, Weichers front strut brace, Eibach front & rear anti-roll bars, Michelin MP4S.
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10-26-2020, 12:24 PM | #17 |
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Good luck dude! It is rather satisfying once done 😀 I tried pushing ahead as days were getting shorter and weather wetter and colder! But it shouldn’t take any longer than a few hours max, I’m sure you will be fine 👍
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10-26-2020, 01:21 PM | #18 |
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Oh, I know exactly how to do it and how to get access. I'll be able to change it it under an hour.
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10-27-2020, 06:50 AM | #21 |
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So what are the jubilee clips in the Repair Kit for?
Is that incase you replace the rubber gaiters on the track rod?
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