[TheJungatron]

Update -

Reality has hit.

They have taken the oil pan off to drill the replacement threads and they found a crack where the bolt threads in.

They are calling for a new pan as the only fix at this point as a heli coil or other fix will leak still

New cost is $1600 with tax for parts and labor.

My car fund is now in the red by about $400

[JaredG_F30]

Damn dude that sucks!

[TheJungatron]

Originally Posted by JaredG_F30

Damn dude that sucks!

Yeah, I've kinda accepted it for now. Looks like my M3 upgrade plan has been placed on hold for the foreseeable future.

I had the shop add a full metal chargepipe while they are waiting on the oil pan to arrive Wednesday. I guess it might just be time to go FBO.

I already have M performance LSD, Bootmod stage 1, MPE on the car...

Whats next?

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by Jungatron

Yeah, I've kinda accepted it for now. Looks like my M3 upgrade plan has been placed on hold for the foreseeable future.

I had the shop add a full metal chargepipe while they are waiting on the oil pan to arrive Wednesday. I guess it might just be time to go FBO.

I already have M performance LSD, Bootmod stage 1, MPE on the car...

Whats next?

Intercooler, and enjoy the car with stage 1, IC+CP. Eventually, do a DP and stage 2.

Also, I would recommend having the shop verify no boost leaks after installing the VRSF CP. You can read all about my issues on the Oring and boost leak threads.

[Cpatel]

I did this to my N26. BMW wanted to replace the entire oil pan. And to do that you have to drop the entire front bumper and axle.

Take it to an indie shop. Ask them to put it on a lift. Bring a variety of chisels and a mallet or hammer. Dig the chisel softly into the nut and try to torque it by hitting the chisel with the hammer.

It took me no more than 15 minutes to get it off. Bring a new nut with you and buy a fucking torque wrench so this never happens.

Best of luck.

BTW, for the n26/n20, the oil pan and nut are plastic. IDK how it is in your car.

[TheJungatron]

Originally Posted by Cpatel

I did this to my N26. BMW wanted to replace the entire oil pan. And to do that you have to drop the entire front bumper and axle.

Take it to an indie shop. Ask them to put it on a lift. Bring a variety of chisels and a mallet or hammer. Dig the chisel softly into the nut and try to torque it by hitting the chisel with the hammer.

It took me no more than 15 minutes to get it off. Bring a new nut with you and buy a fucking torque wrench so this never happens.

Best of luck.

BTW, for the n26/n20, the oil pan and nut are plastic. IDK how it is in your car.

Bolt came out fine, problem is the over torqued bolt cracked the oil drain plug hole and it will alway be an issue. So that's why we are replacing it. It's at an Indy shop, Bmw wanted $2600 plus tax to fix it.

I'll have them check for any boost leaks :-)

[XutvJet]

For those that change their oil on their metal oil pan BMWs, the bolt torque is around 18 ft/lbs. That's running the bolt down until it stops and then just a gentle tug of the wrench (assuming 10 to 12 inch long wrench/socket) where the bolt might turn another 1/8"+.

In all my years of changing oil (about 30 years), I've never used a torque wrench, especially on a drain bolt where the torque spec is low. When you're dealing with sub 30 ft/lb specs, it's way too easy run past the torque spec before the wrench snaps because of the leverage as most torque wrenches are 18" to 24" in length. If you must torque your drain bolt with torque wrench, get a smaller torque wrench that does in/lbs. 18 ft/lbs is around 216 in/lbs. You'd be surprised by how little that feels.

[435gc]

Maybe a stupid idea... but can you not use an epoxy type product or jb weld to mend the crack? That stuff dries HARD. The oil pan isnt pressurized. Maybe thats pretty ghetto, but could save you that money for the M3. Maybe fill the crack and the original plug hole, then drill a new plug a few inches over. If done well, it may be the sturdiest portion of the whole oil pan.

[TheJungatron]

Originally Posted by 435gc

Maybe a stupid idea... but can you not use an epoxy type product or jb weld to mend the crack? That stuff dries HARD. The oil pan isnt pressurized. Maybe thats pretty ghetto, but could save you that money for the M3. Maybe fill the crack and the original plug hole, then drill a new plug a few inches over. If done well, it may be the sturdiest portion of the whole oil pan.

We could have but we have went ahead and had the pan replaced.

We decided the effort we could have gone to try and fix it could cause other issues down the road and then I would be replacing the pan anyway. The risk wasn't worth it.

With having the M Performance -LSD installed and my other supporting Mods I will just keep the car and just keep adding to it for the future.

All in its an extra $826 over what I was already paying - not the end of the world.

Thanks everyone for the support :-)


Buy a good torque wrench and make sure no one has ever dropped it!

[XutvJet]

Originally Posted by Jungatron

Buy a good torque wrench and make sure no one has ever dropped it!

Don't use a torque wrench on the drain bolt. It's not necessary and too risky. A ton of torque isn't necessary either. Snug is all it needs. People get it in their head that the bolt needs to be very tight because if it spins out, your motor is toast. It's not a fastener. It's simply plugging a hole.

[TheJungatron]

Originally Posted by XutvJet

Don't use a torque wrench on the drain bolt. It's not necessary and too risky. A ton of torque isn't necessary either. Snug is all it needs. People get it in their head that the bolt needs to be very tight because if it spins out, your motor is toast. It's not a fastener. It's simply plugging a hole.