[buckybadger]

I have got alignment done both at the dealership and by a BMW specialist.

When I compare the target spec from both the dealer and specialist, I see that they are quite different. The target spec is the one that is used as a reference guideline to meet for proper alignment.

Can anyone here tell which spec is better (dealer or specialist)? My dealer says that they spend 3 hours to align, whereas the specialist only needed 1.5 hours. Also the alignment machine used by the specialist in top of the line 2017 model, whereas the one at the dealer is a different one and possibly not as new. I don't know if this makes any difference.

Please see attached specs.

Alignment done by BMW specialist (independent shop) in 2018:
align_new.jpg

Alignment done by BMW dealer in 2017:
align_bmw_1.jpg
align_bmw_1.jpg

Thank you!

[Tribalpinoy911]

I got mine done at the dealer for $142. Took about 2 hours. They just got it in spec for me based on the readout its close to 1 degree camber all four wheels if I remember correct.


The dealer follows manufac guidelines whereas the specialist probably does not. They both look ok, if you're rwd you'll probably find more value in aggressive alignment setups. If you value tire life most likely value conservative setups.

Regardless it looks like you're at most at the outer limit on the specs, but within range.

[buckybadger]

Originally Posted by Tribalpinoy911

I got mine done at the dealer for $142. Took about 2 hours. They just got it in spec for me based on the readout its close to 1 degree camber all four wheels if I remember correct.


The dealer follows manufac guidelines whereas the specialist probably does not. They both look ok, if you're rwd you'll probably find more value in aggressive alignment setups. If you value tire life most likely value conservative setups.

Regardless it looks like you're at most at the outer limit on the specs, but within range.

Thanks, dealer was offering me $240 for the alignment. I only paid $135 to the specialist, who used to also work at the dealer before starting his own business a few years back.

[buckybadger]

Originally Posted by Tribalpinoy911

if you're rwd you'll probably find more value in aggressive alignment setups. .

What does it mean by aggressive setup? My car still drives straight and I don't see much of a difference compared to before, so I was curious. Only major difference I noticed is that the car felt slightly tighter before but that could be due to tire pressure and other factors as well.

Thanks!

[Tribalpinoy911]

The last set of photos is more aggressive than the first. I see you're rwd so that looks ok.

So you're current alignment (first photo) is slightly less aggressive than the last set of photos.

The independent has you running slight less aggressive, not a whole lot difference.

[buckybadger]

Originally Posted by Tribalpinoy911

The last set of photos is more aggressive than the first. I see you're rwd so that looks ok.

So you're current alignment (first photo) is slightly less aggressive than the last set of photos.

The independent has you running slight less aggressive, not a whole lot difference.

Please explain the definition of aggressive setup and how does it translate to driving experience.

[Kingpin4]

[Tribalpinoy911]

Originally Posted by Kingpin4

Hahahaha

[Cyanfall]

Dealer tends to use the alignment which prolong tire life, but not as good on performance

[buckybadger]

Originally Posted by Cyanfall

Dealer tends to use the alignment which prolong tire life, but not as good on performance

Thanks, based on your comment dealer setup is not as aggressive, correct?

[chiefneil]

Originally Posted by buckybadger

Please explain the definition of aggressive setup and how does it translate to driving experience.

When you take a corner at a decent speed, the car leans over. The tires tend to lean over as well, especially with the 3/4-series strut suspension. A suspension is more “aggressive” if it’s tuned to keep more of the tire’s surface in contact with the road during hard cornering. You do that with negative camber, which is when the top of the wheel leans in towards the car’s body.

The downside of negative camber is that the top of the wheel is leaning in towards the car’s body. That means when you’re going straight you’re riding more heavily on the inside edge of the tire, which gives you uneven tire wear. The “conservative” setup keeps the tire flatter in a straight line for more even tire wear, but then you have less contact patch during heavy cornering.

There’s also some considerations with toe, but I don’t know much about that aspect.

[buckybadger]

Originally Posted by chiefneil

When you take a corner at a decent speed, the car leans over. The tires tend to lean over as well, especially with the 3/4-series strut suspension. A suspension is more “aggressive” if it’s tuned to keep more of the tire’s surface in contact with the road during hard cornering. You do that with negative camber, which is when the top of the wheel leans in towards the car’s body.

The downside of negative camber is that the top of the wheel is leaning in towards the car’s body. That means when you’re going straight you’re riding more heavily on the inside edge of the tire, which gives you uneven tire wear. The “conservative” setup keeps the tire flatter in a straight line for more even tire wear, but then you have less contact patch during heavy cornering.

There’s also some considerations with toe, but I don’t know much about that aspect.

Great info, thanks for explaining

[Tribalpinoy911]

Originally Posted by chiefneil

When you take a corner at a decent speed, the car leans over. The tires tend to lean over as well, especially with the 3/4-series strut suspension. A suspension is more "aggressive" if it's tuned to keep more of the tire's surface in contact with the road during hard cornering. You do that with negative camber, which is when the top of the wheel leans in towards the car's body.

The downside of negative camber is that the top of the wheel is leaning in towards the car's body. That means when you're going straight you're riding more heavily on the inside edge of the tire, which gives you uneven tire wear. The "conservative" setup keeps the tire flatter in a straight line for more even tire wear, but then you have less contact patch during heavy cornering.

There's also some considerations with toe, but I don't know much about that aspect.

...And then on third day there was caster

[buckybadger]

Thanks everyone!