[Spaceme1117]

I will be replacing my front M Sport Adaptive struts to try to fix the noise my front end has when going over bumps at low speed.

In researching the install, I have come across online instructions that show to unbolt the lower control arm ball joint but do not show any instructions to disconnect the lower part of the strut from the knuckle.

That has to be a mistake. As far as I can see, the strut replacement should be now different from pretty much any other car. Unbolt brake caliper, unbolt lower strut bolt from knuckle. Use special socket tool to release the strut from the knuckle. Unbolt 3 bolts on the top holding strut to car. Unbolt sway bar link and electrical lines. Then remove the strut. Compress spring, unbolt top nut and remove strut from spring. Re-assemble in reverse order with new strut and strut mount.

Can anyone confirm or point out anything I am missing?

[sspade]

You shouldn't have to touch the brakes (other than unclipping lines).

[Spaceme1117]

Originally Posted by sspade

You shouldn't have to touch the brakes (other than unclipping lines).

I will probably unbolt the calipers. From the Kies Motorsport video, it looked like it made it a lot easier to move the knuckle downward to be able to swing out the strut assembly.

I will see if this is necessary when I hopefully do the install this weekend. (If it's not too cold and windy).

[sspade]

Originally Posted by Spaceme1117

I will probably unbolt the calipers. From the Kies Motorsport video, it looked like it made it a lot easier to move the knuckle downward to be able to swing out the strut assembly.

I will see if this is necessary when I hopefully do the install this weekend. (If it's not too cold and windy).

Fair enough. I didnt need to touch brakes at all when I went with Bilstein.

I believe I literally only removed two bolts (from each side) on the lower portion of the strut near knuckle.

Used a cold chisel to carefully separate knuckle.

Overall this is very straightforward, youll be fine.

Have a jack handy to support Hub assembly when strut is removed.

[cfm56d7b]

Originally Posted by Spaceme1117

I will be replacing my front M Sport Adaptive struts to try to fix the noise my front end has when going over bumps at low speed.

In researching the install, I have come across online instructions that show to unbolt the lower control arm ball joint but do not show any instructions to disconnect the lower part of the strut from the knuckle.

That has to be a mistake. As far as I can see, the strut replacement should be now different from pretty much any other car. Unbolt brake caliper, unbolt lower strut bolt from knuckle. Use special socket tool to release the strut from the knuckle. Unbolt 3 bolts on the top holding strut to car. Unbolt sway bar link and electrical lines. Then remove the strut. Compress spring, unbolt top nut and remove strut from spring. Re-assemble in reverse order with new strut and strut mount.

Can anyone confirm or point out anything I am missing?

How many miles does your car have? Very interested in longevity of M Adaptive struts.

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by Spaceme1117

I will be replacing my front M Sport Adaptive struts to try to fix the noise my front end has when going over bumps at low speed.

In researching the install, I have come across online instructions that show to unbolt the lower control arm ball joint but do not show any instructions to disconnect the lower part of the strut from the knuckle.

That has to be a mistake. As far as I can see, the strut replacement should be now different from pretty much any other car. Unbolt brake caliper, unbolt lower strut bolt from knuckle. Use special socket tool to release the strut from the knuckle. Unbolt 3 bolts on the top holding strut to car. Unbolt sway bar link and electrical lines. Then remove the strut. Compress spring, unbolt top nut and remove strut from spring. Re-assemble in reverse order with new strut and strut mount.

Can anyone confirm or point out anything I am missing?

No part of the control arm or tension strut needs to be disconnected. Some places will have you disconnect the axle from the knuckle so you can rotate the top of the strut out of the wheel well, but there's another way. Having the brakes on there doesn't make a difference IMO, and they don't need to be removed.

After taking off the end links and various wires/lines on the strut, remove the bolt holding the knuckle to the strut and then use a spreader too to open the strut clamp on the knuckle. I usually spray some penetrating oil on the strut/knuckle connection so the strut comes out of it more easily.

Next I loosen the top mount bolts a bit, so the strut has some play, and also unscrew the nut holding the shock to the top mount a bit (so it can be turned easily with hand tools later without needing leverage to get the initial break torque required).

Then I push down on the knuckle and push it off of the strut, which is still being held up by the 3-5 bolts that I loosened, but didn't remove. After the knuckle is off, just remove the remaining 3-5 top bolts and take the strut assembly out.

[Spaceme1117]

Originally Posted by cfm56d7b

How many miles does your car have? Very interested in longevity of M Adaptive struts.

2013 335i Xdrive with just shy of 70K. Car’s steering is solid, tracks straight, no slack in any ball joints, bushings, or end links. When I was inspecting the struts recently trying to diagnose the low speed noise/shudder over bumps, I found the drivers side strut is leaking oil. Not a lot, just a light coating. But that means it’s failing.

There is an on-going thread in the general section discussing this. A lot of people have this problem and it seems the most of the time it is bad struts.

Some people have had the struts replaced, still have the noise, and have to get another replacement because the new strut was bad.

So probably a higher failure rate than the average strut.

[Spaceme1117]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

No part of the control arm or tension strut needs to be disconnected. Some places will have you disconnect the axle from the knuckle so you can rotate the top of the strut out of the wheel well, but there's another way. Having the brakes on there doesn't make a difference IMO, and they don't need to be removed.

After taking off the end links and various wires/lines on the strut, remove the bolt holding the knuckle to the strut and then use a spreader too to open the strut clamp on the knuckle. I usually spray some penetrating oil on the strut/knuckle connection so the strut comes out of it more easily.

Next I loosen the top mount bolts a bit, so the strut has some play, and also unscrew the nut holding the shock to the top mount a bit (so it can be turned easily with hand tools later without needing leverage to get the initial break torque required).

Then I push down on the knuckle and push it off of the strut, which is still being held up by the 3-5 bolts that I loosened, but didn't remove. After the knuckle is off, just remove the remaining 3-5 top bolts and take the strut assembly out.

Thanks. Worked just like you said. Got my struts changed out solving my front end noise problem.

[cfm56d7b]

Glad to see the update and the final resolution. M Adaptive struts are expensive. What did yours cost? In the neighborhood of $500?

[Spaceme1117]

Originally Posted by cfm56d7b

Glad to see the update and the final resolution. M Adaptive struts are expensive. What did yours cost? In the neighborhood of $500?

For just the struts, it was about $360 apiece. With mounts, hardware, bump stops, $500 apiece.

[cfm56d7b]

Originally Posted by Spaceme1117

For just the struts, it was about $360 apiece. With mounts, hardware, bump stops, $500 apiece.

Thanks for the details. Appreciate it!