Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreizo
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiago@VRSF
Most of our customers have a CEL free experience with our downpipes but we've been working hard on our existing F chassis lineup and we should have a Euro6 standard catted option on the way for both the 3.5" and 4.0" models that will be guaranteed to pass inspection.
They'll be the same price as our existing options and should be ready for purchase Q1 2019.
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Anyone know if this was actually refreshed? No CEL at $400 Catted vs. the $980 for CG precision. |
How tough are emissions requirements in Toronto? Covering up a Check Engine Light with a tune so it doesn't show on the dashboard does not pass emissions because it will still be seen when they plug into your OBD2 under the dash. I believe Fabspeed is still the DP that guarantees no CELs. They use HJS cats which are the best in the world. It also dyno tested at 93% of the performance of their catless DP. It lists for $1,395 but a few times a year I've seen it 15% off ($1,186). I'd bet it will be on sale again for Black Friday. I saw all the labor and hassle guys we're going through to swap their DPs to pass emissions and easily justified the cost of the Fabspeed HJS Catted Downpipe.
The Fabspeed DP really sounds great too. I have the M Performance exhaust which was on my car when I bought it. I kept the stock midpipe because Mike at X-PH warned me against drone issues. He was right that this combination sounds great. If I were you I'd do the Fabspeed catted DP, stock midpipe and axle-back exhaust from AWE (which I've heard on several cars) or Remus (which I've heard Mike recommend). AWE has several tailpipe options. The larger ones (102mm?) look amazing.
I highly recommend the charge pipe from Evolution Raceworks. Super high quality and perfect fitment. With CP make sure to change the three o-rings. Cheap insurance against a big troubleshooting bill if they leak. Two directional o-rings on FMIC connections (only seal one-way and leak if backwards) and a larger o-ring on CP where it connects to throttle body.
You do save on labor if you install CP and FMIC at the same time because typically you need to remove the intercooler to install the CP anyway. It's worth asking your mechanic to see what the difference might be.
I know that you are hearing that you can get away with going BM3 Stage2 without upgrading your FMIC because everyone thinks Canada is always cold. I did my CP and FMIC at the same time when I only had a BMW MPPK tune which is much less than BM3 Stage1. The BMW failsafe systems work very smoothly. I didn't understand how much heat soak I had until the upgraded FMIC went on and suddenly heat soak disappeared!
Heat soak is basically when your intake air temperature gets too high and the engine has to intervene by cutting power to keep itself in a safe operating temperature. True that an FMIC isn't doing much in freezing temperatures but as soon as temperatures get normal, not even hot, an FMIC will be protecting your engine and its performance.
Mike at X-PH knows the most about intercoolers. He has written some good posts and blogs about them. Here's my short version. There are two types of intercoolers. Tube & Fin are lighter, have faster air flow rates & are more expensive to manufacture. Bar & Plate are heavier and are cheaper to manufacture. BMW uses a small Tube&Fin intercooler that is sized for the ~300HP stock performance while providing the least amount of turbo lag. Along with the twin scroll turbo it makes the stock car pretty responsive. The only aftermarket tube&fin intercoolers that I've found so far are the Wagner Competition EVO1 and Competition EVO2. (Wagner "Performance" model's EVO1 and EVO2 are NOT tube&fin designs)
So the two Wagner "Competition" models are basically larger, higher quality versions of the BMW intercooler. They have quick air flow through the cooler so they can keep chargepipe pressure higher and ,correspondingly, turbo lag down. So they are sized for higher horsepower modified engines which requires higher airflow overall.
I have an absolute hatred for turbo lag. Used to own a 1999 Volvo S80 twin turbo. Very powerful but step on the gas and literally count to 3-Mississippi before the car would go. Turbo lag is most apparent in daily driving from a standing start like when a light turns green or when you are cruising along at low revs when you suddenly want to accelerate to pass someone or to accelerate onto an on-ramp. So if the car is a daily driver with turbo lag you tend to notice it a lot.
The other type of intercooler is Bar & Plate which is literally every other aftermarket intercooler that I've heard of. B&P has the advantage of lower cost. If you are racing lap after lap you don't care about turbo lag because your engine revs are high where you won't notice it. You just want a large capacity intercooler to cool a lot of air. Many people buy Bar & Plate intercoolers for their street cars because they are cheap. Nothing wrong with that. Often they say that they notice more lag but can live with it at the low cost.
I was going to buy the Wagner Competition EVO2 because it's only $50 more, and well bigger is better, right? Mike at X-PH was adamant that for the smallest turbo lag I should get the Comp EVO1 because it would have the quickest flow and lowest pressure drop. If I was building a track lap car I might need the larger capacity Comp EVO2, but that wasn't the case.
So with aftermarket intercoolers the choices are really between the two Wagner Competition models (Tube&Fin) and literally everything else which are Bar&Plate. Obviously within all the Bar&Plate models there are varying sizes, prices and quality levels.
You did not mention intake. Besides exhaust, modifying the air filter intake is the most common way of changing the sound. There is a small amount of power to be gained by upgrading the intake. Not a lot because the airflow to the stock turbo is determined by the construction point in the turbo inlet pipe as well as the turbo capacity itself.
If the power gain is all that you want, along with a little sound gain, then you can swap the bottom piece of your plastic airflow box for the BMW M Performance intake, about $180. It has an extra hole in it for more air. You can accomplish the same thing by drilling or cutting holes in the same location in your own stock air filter box. The other thing to do is to upgrade to an aFe Pro Dry washable air filter. (~$75). Save the original filter for when the aFe is air drying after you wash it with soapy water.
If you want more air intake noise they are aftermarket intakes that are closed design like the stock box to try to draw in cooler air. And there are open designs that are loud but get criticized for pulling in hotter air from under the hood. Louder sound doesn't always mean more power because you can actually lose some potential engine power because the air flow entry is being disrupted to make that loud sound.
Another new sound option is to upgrade the Diverter Valve to an N55 Turbosmart Blow Off Valve (BOV) in the Dual Port model. (It's a total swap. No need to use parts from your stock DV.) It generates a big whoosh sound when it vents to the atmosphere. It also cuts turbo lag because it electronically controls intake boost pressure so that it bleeds of just enough to keep boost ready to go, instead of doing a complete boost dump like the DV often does.
I had the quieter Plumb Back BOV model installed at Kies Motorsports. I think Bryan may be installing the Dual Port on his 335 for video. Below is the link. I'll attach photos of some things I mentioned above.
Have fun with your car! Hope this helps!
Link to Dual Port blow off valve DV replacement.
https://www.kiesmotorsports.com/coll...30992358899797
